5.3 rebuild guestions

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Marky Dissod

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2023
Posts
1,184
Reaction score
1,543
Location
(718)-
But that $50-$200 "more cam" could cost you $1,000 for the supporting mods.
This is why I tend to think that a Gen4 6.0L or a 6.2L is a wiser investment than a cam, despite the additional costs.
Same goes for 3.42 or 3.73 for a 6L80E, or 4.10 or 4.30 for a 4L60E.
If the cam is not chosen conscientiously, another $1,000 for the supporting mods is easy.
 

Dustin Jackson

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2018
Posts
1,402
Reaction score
1,545
@Marky Dissod Both routes certainly have their place and it just depends on the objective and budget. Most people who ask for help with an AFM delete just want to get back to the baseline of having a normal running and driving tahoe without the DOD nonsense and from what I can tell the cam I recommended is on par for other cams $$$ they would be using for a "stock" AFM delete. When they say "I want to do an AFM delete and upgrade it while I'm in there" that's a good time to get serious and start talking 6.0 or 6.2.
 

strutaeng

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2023
Posts
672
Reaction score
1,310
Location
Dallas, Texas
For stock rebuild in a stock truck for daily duties and reliability, I see no reason to go with a wild cam that will also require a bunch of other stuff to match.

Most manufacturers make mild "drop-in" or no springs required "NSR" cams that will increase a bit of HP, but tame enough for near OEM use. Nothing wild lift.

Engine rebuilding is already expensive as it is. Spend the money on doing a quality job on parts that are necessary. At least that's my opinion.

BTW, has anyone mentioned budget? I'm guessing $1500-$2000 minimum for a stock rebuild, OP doing the work himself, depending on what needs machining. That actually may be low since this is a DOD AFM delete rebuild...(?)

I think the DOD AFM delete kits alone are running $800-1200?
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
5,621
Reaction score
13,375
Location
Richmond, VA
For stock rebuild in a stock truck for daily duties and reliability, I see no reason to go with a wild cam that will also require a bunch of other stuff to match.

Most manufacturers make mild "drop-in" or no springs required "NSR" cams that will increase a bit of HP, but tame enough for near OEM use. Nothing wild lift.

Engine rebuilding is already expensive as it is. Spend the money on doing a quality job on parts that are necessary. At least that's my opinion.

BTW, has anyone mentioned budget? I'm guessing $1500-$2000 minimum for a stock rebuild, OP doing the work himself, depending on what needs machining. That actually may be low since this is a DOD AFM delete rebuild...(?)

I think the DOD AFM delete kits alone are running $800-1200?
Yes, and I said similar above. To add perspective for the OP, the factory springs are good to .550 lift but I would stay comfortably under that for any cam upgrades if keeping them. BTR beehive springs are good to .560, so they're what I used for my cam swap with .553 lift on my sleeper cam. Still running great 25K later. The only other parts needed to support the change to a nice sleeper (smooth idle but better flow) 3-bolt cam are a new timing cover, cam sprocket with 4x reluctor, crank sprocket, chain and tensioner, crankshaft seal and bolt, Trick-Flow TFS-30678505, $275. The same cam I used comes in a "drop-in" version with .501 lift for $400, so no other specialized parts would be needed, apart from the other things needed for any cam swap.
 

The_White_Car

TYF Newbie
Joined
Dec 14, 2023
Posts
11
Reaction score
17
For stock rebuild in a stock truck for daily duties and reliability, I see no reason to go with a wild cam that will also require a bunch of other stuff to match.

Most manufacturers make mild "drop-in" or no springs required "NSR" cams that will increase a bit of HP, but tame enough for near OEM use. Nothing wild lift.

Engine rebuilding is already expensive as it is. Spend the money on doing a quality job on parts that are necessary. At least that's my opinion.

BTW, has anyone mentioned budget? I'm guessing $1500-$2000 minimum for a stock rebuild, OP doing the work himself, depending on what needs machining. That actually may be low since this is a DOD AFM delete rebuild...(?)

I think the DOD AFM delete kits alone are running $800-1200?
I got quoted $4000 recently for a bare bones AFM delete on my 5.3L recently in Alabama. Just for more points of reference.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,244
Posts
1,812,762
Members
92,349
Latest member
Ihaveatahoetoo
Top