Danny3737
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I’m guessing it was sold or traded in to CARMAX for the exact problem you are experiencing
2019 GMC Yukon NO Trans Gears, NO Tachometer, NO Oil Pressure, NO Power Steering SECOND TIME!
- Thread starter BlaineBug
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I’m guessing it was sold or traded in to CARMAX for the exact problem you are experiencing
https://static.oemdtc.com/TSB/MC-10118949-9999.pdf
https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/209372-electrical-issues/
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10113356-9999.pdf
do you see a pattern here? a poor electrical connection just wreaks havoc on these vehicles they have along history of it, hell they just did a recall on the battery cables for some the brand new 2019-2020 trucks because they used to much glue on the cable.
your symptoms may not be the exact same but they seem pretty similar to me
anyway just my .02 cents, some have had to replace the fuse box also
could be something else, who knows
https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/209372-electrical-issues/
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10113356-9999.pdf
do you see a pattern here? a poor electrical connection just wreaks havoc on these vehicles they have along history of it, hell they just did a recall on the battery cables for some the brand new 2019-2020 trucks because they used to much glue on the cable.
your symptoms may not be the exact same but they seem pretty similar to me
anyway just my .02 cents, some have had to replace the fuse box also
could be something else, who knows
BlaineBug
Full Access Member
Thank you. Apparently for the most part the lack of transmission gears doesn't happen for the guys with the Silverados and Sierras but I am reading one case where it did with a 2018 Sierra Denali.
From all of the other reports of trucks with electrical issues, all of them had unaffected transmissions, but did have the jerking steering wheel and flickering lights.
My steering wheel never jerked, though. Perhaps it is all related. But the vehicles are made on separate assembly lines aren't they? Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade in Texas and Silverado/Sierra in Indiana. Is that right?
From all of the other reports of trucks with electrical issues, all of them had unaffected transmissions, but did have the jerking steering wheel and flickering lights.
My steering wheel never jerked, though. Perhaps it is all related. But the vehicles are made on separate assembly lines aren't they? Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade in Texas and Silverado/Sierra in Indiana. Is that right?
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BlaineBug
Full Access Member
That is most certainly an interesting theory to believe that all of Carmax's hundreds (thousands?) of Tahoes, Suburbans, Yukons, and Escalades would all be auctioned by the rental companies for problems.
BlaineBug
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I received a call from my dealer this morning, nothing found.
He said they cleaned some terminals around the battery and fuse block. I asked if they were corroded or dirty, he said no.
So, obviously this fix isn't going to repair shit in the long run. He said it must be physically inoperable in their shop for them to diagnose it. He said that there were three stored codes (inactive) for loss of power to the engine computer, body control module, and brake controller, but they could have been stored a very long time ago so that doesn't point to anything for a repair.
It was also pointed out to me verbally that they only get paid when there is a problem to fix, and when there isn't they don't like spending time on it.
He said they cleaned some terminals around the battery and fuse block. I asked if they were corroded or dirty, he said no.
So, obviously this fix isn't going to repair shit in the long run. He said it must be physically inoperable in their shop for them to diagnose it. He said that there were three stored codes (inactive) for loss of power to the engine computer, body control module, and brake controller, but they could have been stored a very long time ago so that doesn't point to anything for a repair.
It was also pointed out to me verbally that they only get paid when there is a problem to fix, and when there isn't they don't like spending time on it.
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BlaineBug
Full Access Member
I am sure it will happen again, but there is no telling when, or where, or how long from now, or how far away from my locale I will be. Not the most confidence here at the moment.
Good luck with GM corporate. I had an '07 Escalade with PAGES of warranty work. It was beyond frustrating attempting to get any traction with them. After months of calling various Cadillac "customer service" lines, I finally got someone's attention to have a meeting at the dealership with a GM corporate representative. This guy could NOT have been more ARROGANT and rude. Got NOWHERE. I called a buddy of mine who owns a Chevy dealership...he knew of this clown and told me that he banned him from ever coming to his store and got a different rep. I ended up speaking to a VP at GM. Bottom line, they ended up working out a deal where they bought the car back as long as I bought another one. Which I did. A 2010 Tahoe LTZ. It's one of the best vehicles I've ever owned. I still have it in the home "fleet."
BTW, the redesigned 2021 T1 platform looks really promising...Time will tell. (I would however be skeptical of buying the first model year. GM is NOTORIOUS for working out the bugs on the backs of the early adopters.) Good luck with these GM2KXX trucks.
BTW, the redesigned 2021 T1 platform looks really promising...Time will tell. (I would however be skeptical of buying the first model year. GM is NOTORIOUS for working out the bugs on the backs of the early adopters.) Good luck with these GM2KXX trucks.
BlaineBug
Full Access Member
I called consumer affairs this morning to document. Their best advice was to call back if it happens again.
Buy another battery and use it and if the problem does not come back you found the problem, heck the price of a battery is not worth the cost of the aggravation. The reason I pick on the battery is, that for a while the original batteries had internal intermittent connections in the internal straps between cells, your vehicle is in the time frame that that ghostly problem circulated.
BlaineBug
Full Access Member
Would the battery issue show up as a voltage drop if and when the problem occurred? I can tell, audibly, that there was no decrease in voltage from starter sound as well as light brightness.
calif phil
Full Access Member
I would do a wiggle test. Open the hood in the garage and start wiggling/tugging on connectors and wiring harness and see if you can recreate the issue. Maybe try under the dash as well. 15 min could save you some aggravation.
Bob2C
Full Access Member
Check the ground cable located behind engine on drivers side that is attached to firewall. There have been issues with that in the past from other posts I have read.
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ivin74
05 NBS Nali
X2
BlaineBug
Full Access Member
I picked the Yukon back up not all that long ago.
As per the paperwork, the dealership did the following: "Test drove, pulled codes- - all history. Cleaned battery cables, fuse block per #18NA161. Could not duplicate concern at this time."
I searched this TSB, and it is described as "#18-NA-161 - Steering Jerks Or Kicks Back / Reduced Power Steering Assist / Engine Stall / No Start / Service Stabilitrak / IPC / Radio / HVAC Goes Blank Various DTCs - (Oct 22, 2018)"
Apparently it affects all of these 2014-2019 models, including the GMC Yukon, GMC Sierra, Cadillac Escalade, Chevrolet Silverado, Chevrolet Tahoe, and Chevrolet Suburban.
I have read plenty and have seen plenty of videos of the jerking steering wheel, which has never happened to me. With the exception of the one 2018 Sierra owner, I have not heard anyone else complaining about having neutral in all gears, either. I can't say if this will do anything or not as they said they didn't find any corrosion or anything out of order on any of the connections. It would also be interesting to know if they checked that grounding stud on the dashboard. I assume if they go through a TSB they would do everything it suggests? Who knows, I wasn't there nor did I do the work.
One odd thing I noticed that I had not before, I was stopped and first in line at a red light, and the cross traffic was tripping my front parking sensors. Every time a car would drive by I would get the front parking sensors detecting their movement. This seem to only happen one time, shortly after I left the dealership. Do these sensors need to re-calibrate themselves after a disconnected battery by chance? I have never noticed it doing this any time in the past.
As per the paperwork, the dealership did the following: "Test drove, pulled codes- - all history. Cleaned battery cables, fuse block per #18NA161. Could not duplicate concern at this time."
I searched this TSB, and it is described as "#18-NA-161 - Steering Jerks Or Kicks Back / Reduced Power Steering Assist / Engine Stall / No Start / Service Stabilitrak / IPC / Radio / HVAC Goes Blank Various DTCs - (Oct 22, 2018)"
Apparently it affects all of these 2014-2019 models, including the GMC Yukon, GMC Sierra, Cadillac Escalade, Chevrolet Silverado, Chevrolet Tahoe, and Chevrolet Suburban.
I have read plenty and have seen plenty of videos of the jerking steering wheel, which has never happened to me. With the exception of the one 2018 Sierra owner, I have not heard anyone else complaining about having neutral in all gears, either. I can't say if this will do anything or not as they said they didn't find any corrosion or anything out of order on any of the connections. It would also be interesting to know if they checked that grounding stud on the dashboard. I assume if they go through a TSB they would do everything it suggests? Who knows, I wasn't there nor did I do the work.
One odd thing I noticed that I had not before, I was stopped and first in line at a red light, and the cross traffic was tripping my front parking sensors. Every time a car would drive by I would get the front parking sensors detecting their movement. This seem to only happen one time, shortly after I left the dealership. Do these sensors need to re-calibrate themselves after a disconnected battery by chance? I have never noticed it doing this any time in the past.
5strmtrp
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This might only apply to 2003-2007 trucks but I had the same issue a few years back on 03 Silverado.
I went under the hood to the fuse panel and pulled out the fuse/relay that says SEOB1. And or SEO IGN. After pulling them out for a few minutes and putting them back in all was good afterwards. It has never happened again.
This suggestion came directly from an Engineer @ GM, my brother.
Paul
I went under the hood to the fuse panel and pulled out the fuse/relay that says SEOB1. And or SEO IGN. After pulling them out for a few minutes and putting them back in all was good afterwards. It has never happened again.
This suggestion came directly from an Engineer @ GM, my brother.
Paul
BlaineBug
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That's strange. I really didn't do any digging around that evening other than wiggling the battery cables. It was cold, dark, and of course all of my tools are in my garage where they belong, not sitting in the back of a one year old vehicle. I'll have to remember that for next time.
2017 Yukon Denali here. My battery lost a cell at 18 months and around 10k miles. While it BARELY started, it never threw a code or had electrical gremlins related to that issue. I live in So Cal, and there isn’t one bit of rust or corrosion on this SUV. The only gremlin I have now is the fuel gauge no longer reads full even though I topped off the tank.
Just a data point.
Just a data point.
BlaineBug
Full Access Member
Something else I noticed today while running errands was a strange start. The truck was fully warm after running errands, and I had made another brief stop for about 15 minutes. Came back in and started, and it didn't just fire up. It's difficult to describe but it was almost as if the starter was cutting out. The cranking time was definitely not extended. After this I immediately drove to the nearest O'Reilly Auto parts to have the battery tested.
While the battery was connected to their tester, I fired it up, and it did the exact same thing. The O'Reilly staff member said they heard it clear as day, but did say that the battery, alternator, and starter all checked out. They did feel my voltage was somewhat high though, they said it was almost 15 volts which is higher than what they usually see.
Any thoughts? I know there was a TSB for 2015-2020 models about extended crank times, but I feel that this is different, as I did not experience any extended cranking times where the starter is continually running without firing up.
While the battery was connected to their tester, I fired it up, and it did the exact same thing. The O'Reilly staff member said they heard it clear as day, but did say that the battery, alternator, and starter all checked out. They did feel my voltage was somewhat high though, they said it was almost 15 volts which is higher than what they usually see.
Any thoughts? I know there was a TSB for 2015-2020 models about extended crank times, but I feel that this is different, as I did not experience any extended cranking times where the starter is continually running without firing up.
How repeatable is this new phenomenon?
