2012 Tahoe LTZ w/221k....should I even consider?

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tmt502

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Hi all, new to the boards and trying to learn a lot, quickly. I’ve been on the hunt for a ‘10 to ‘12 4wd Tahoe for a while now. I let one slip by a couple of weeks ago and am determined to not let that happen again.

I’m going to look at a ‘12 LTZ with 221k on the clock tomorrow morning. My question is, should I even be considering this truck based on the mileage? I’m looking for this to be a “secondary” vehicle that I’ll use for limited work travel and also for towing a boat, which I am also in the process of trying to find.

Carfax shows this to be a one owner vehicle that was bought and serviced locally throughout. Oil changes every 7k miles. Torque converter replacement at 73k, brake fluid flush and new brakes at 171k.

Some cosmetic items are expected and the drivers side door pull appears to be messed up, which I’m willing to replace.

Am I crazy for even considering this?

Thanks!
 

avalonandl

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No your not crazy but at that mileage i would not pay much. Engine oil pressure is a real important thing to watch. Door pulls are common repairs. Also which engine? 5.3 or 6.2?
 

cfmistry

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Nothing wrong with a high-mileage GM truck; they're cheap and easy to repair and can go a long time! As long as its not your only vehicle I think it's a go, but I agree with not paying much.
 
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tmt502

tmt502

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It’s a 5.3. Looking to do $11k. Not wanting to get into too much of a financial commitment.
 

PG01

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No your not crazy but at that mileage i would not pay much. Engine oil pressure is a real important thing to watch. Door pulls are common repairs. Also which engine? 5.3 or 6.2?
Did I miss something? When did GM put a 6.2 into a 2012 ltz tahoe? asking for a friend
 

Trey Hardy

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Hi all, new to the boards and trying to learn a lot, quickly. I’ve been on the hunt for a ‘10 to ‘12 4wd Tahoe for a while now. I let one slip by a couple of weeks ago and am determined to not let that happen again.

I’m going to look at a ‘12 LTZ with 221k on the clock tomorrow morning. My question is, should I even be considering this truck based on the mileage? I’m looking for this to be a “secondary” vehicle that I’ll use for limited work travel and also for towing a boat, which I am also in the process of trying to find.

Carfax shows this to be a one owner vehicle that was bought and serviced locally throughout. Oil changes every 7k miles. Torque converter replacement at 73k, brake fluid flush and new brakes at 171k.

Some cosmetic items are expected and the drivers side door pull appears to be messed up, which I’m willing to replace.

Am I crazy for even considering this?

Thanks!
I just picked up a 08 Ltz with 251k for 5grand I’d go for it don’t be scared of miles especially if it’s highway miles like mine if you take care of them ls motors they can go on 400-500k easy


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cfmistry

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It’s a 5.3. Looking to do $11k. Not wanting to get into too much of a financial commitment.

$11k is way too much. A truck with that mileage is only is worth about $6-7k. I bought mine 2 years ago with 150k miles for $9k, though it doesn't sound as well cared for as yours.
 

mikeyss

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Late 2008 2WD LTZ's could have a 6.2, and all of 2009 an LTZ with 2WD or 4X4 could be optioned with a 6.2. 2010 the 6.2 option was dropped....for some stupid reason.

As the other members have said, the mileage for the one you're looking at isn't scary, but that price is. I wouldn't spend a dollar over $8K in my opinion.

Why do you want a '12 - '14, just curious? 2009-2011 are also good years, as they all had the 6 speed. Only a few things changed for 2012 that the older ones didn't... A heated steering wheel and they changed Bluetooth functions. Oh and I think the 6 speed had some reprogramming done in 2012
 
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I think 2012 started hill start assist and something with the braking, like powertrain braking or something.

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K2 Kaiju

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I think the main plus for 2012+ is the updated navigation head unit that dropped dvds for a hard drive. You can store 20G of music and pause live radio, but you cant stream music. It also saved new roads that were not on the map...

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tmt502

tmt502

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Ok, so an update. I went and drove it, liked it and bought it today! Didn’t pay near asking price btw.

Now I’ve got some things to fix on it. The first major thing is the drivers side door panel. The door pull/arm rest is completely broken. Where can I get a new one?? I’ve been searching parts sites, but not sure which site to trust. None show real pictures and the descriptions are vague at best. I think my colors are dark cashmere and light cashmere. It’s an LTZ and has power/heated/cooled seats.

The second thing is an intermittent message for service suspension system. It doesn’t always appear on startup, but I’m sure something needs to be fixed. I know you can have the codes read but any ideas of how to troubleshoot myself would be awesome. Many part stores aren’t offering their code read service due to covid precautions right now.

Overall it really does feel like a solid truck. Transmission feels solid. This is definitely a keeper for me and I’m looking forward to fixing her up!
 

PG01

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Door panel is a junk yard thing, I’m sure you can buy new but prob not worth it... they all tend to break. There is a thread on here somewhere on A diy how to fix ... service suspension is prob the compressor for the rear shocks or Someone swapped factory struts/shocks and put resistors to trick computer...
 
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tmt502

tmt502

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Door panel is a junk yard thing, I’m sure you can buy new but prob not worth it... they all tend to break. There is a thread on here somewhere on A diy how to fix ... service suspension is prob the compressor for the rear shocks or Someone swapped factory struts/shocks and put resistors to trick computer...

How can I check on the resistor thing? I’ve read that you should hear the compressor when you turn the key to the on position, and I don’t. Would that be the case with resistors?
 

Plimbob

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For whatever its worth - I have a 2007 with 291,500 (5.3) on it of which I put 90% on. Other than standard maintenance I have no major issues.
I changed the oil every 3,500. My oil pressure is around 30 at idle and 45ish at 70 mph (2,000 rpm).

However, check the motor mounts.
Check the trans fluid for color - or just change it and the filter
Change the differential(s) and transfer case fluids.
Might want to consider an AFM delete whether by tune or a Range unit.
Rear main might leak a bit like mine but its tolerable.
Is it from snow country - if so wash out the fender wells and if there is rust starting inside top clean it up and undercoat. Other wise she'll rust because the winter crap gets caught up in the tops inside.

Like some one else stated in this thread just keep up on maintenance and it will run for a long time.

Good luck!
 

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