200K+ club what oil you run in the heat ??

[j91z28d1]

Likely because the European spec equivalent of the U.S. Spec is not available or even made. It would be almost impossible to find the constant steady stock of U.S. spec oil in Europe so the auto manufacturers (in the U.S.) had to try some spec to see if it meets the engine requirements and came of with the Euro Spec of 0w40 which would meet the warranty needs.

that makes sense and maybe why the op sees different oil recommended in different countries. but yeah. interesting

 

[Marky Dissod]

After reading as much of

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

540ratblog.wordpress.com

as my present calamities allowed me to this weekend, I'll be keeping an eye out for the following motor oils:

1. 5W30 Quaker State “Full Synthetic” (abbreviated QSFS), dexos 1 Gen 2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP
2. 5W30 Amsoil Signature Series 100% Synthetic, no certifications, claims it can be used in applications that require GM dexos1-Gen2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP
3. 0W20 Amsoil Signature Series, synthetic. No API symbol, claims it can be used in applications that require API SN, GM dexos 1, ACEA A1/B1.
4. 5W30 Valvoline Full Synthetic Extended Protection, GM dexos1-Gen2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP
5. 5W30 Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic, GM dexos1-Gen2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP, made from natural gas, NOT crude oil
6. 5W30 Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic, GM dexos1-Gen2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP
7. 5W30 Quaker State High Mileage Full Synthetic, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP
8. 0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, synthetic (originally gold, now green bottle)
9. 5W30 Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage with MaxLife Technology, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved (silver bottle)
10. 5W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved, synthetic (originally gold, now green bottle)

With any of those motor oils, I'll keep an eye out for oil filters dimensionally equivalent to PF61.

 

[iamdub]

Hmmm.... I do Have some old Carquest(valvoline) fulll syn 5W-40 SN rated diesel oil from when they switched to Fram products !! Also have some gallons of Delo 400XSP 15W40 full syn but not sure if thats to thick even for our southern 100+ summers ???

As @SnowDrifter said, the oil weight and viscosity isn't really for the high ambient temps. It's not a "thicker oil for high temps" thing, it's a "thinner oil for low temps" thing. Low temps don't apply to my climate. I mentioned ambient temps in my response because you specifically asked about what oil in the heat. Operating temp is operating temp as regulated by the cooling system. If the ambient temps are making your engine oil considerably hotter and thinner, then your engine, itself, is running considerably hotter, meaning you have a cooling system deficiency. I run heavy duty oil because I'm hârd on my 200K+ mile engine and it just makes me feel better about it. Overkill? Definitely. Harmful? Not at all, according to my UOAs. I'm aware that I'm giving up a few horses and a miniscule amount of MPG due to pumping losses. The cost of the oil isn't much of a factor since I change it only once or twice a year. I don't have cats so the zinc, etc. in the diesel oil isn't a factor. Hell, I add ZDDP to my oil.

I do know that my rig didnt like the Rotella gas/truck 5W30 I ran in it last summer !! Boy was she pinging BAD during accelration !!!! Luckily some "Free" Mobil 1 10W30 saved the day and ALL noise went away !!

Dave

This is the first I've heard of oil, especially a good one, causing detonation. Does your engine burn a lot of oil?

 

[MassHoe04]

As @SnowDrifter said, the oil weight and viscosity isn't really for the high ambient temps. It's not a "thicker oil for high temps" thing, it's a "thinner oil for low temps" thing. Low temps don't apply to my climate. I mentioned ambient temps in my response because you specifically asked about what oil in the heat. Operating temp is operating temp as regulated by the cooling system. If the ambient temps are making your engine oil considerably hotter and thinner, then your engine, itself, is running considerably hotter, meaning you have a cooling system deficiency. I run heavy duty oil because I'm ******* my 200K+ mile engine and it just makes me feel better about it. Overkill? Definitely. Harmful? Not at all, according to my UOAs. I'm aware that I'm giving up a few horses and a miniscule amount of MPG due to pumping losses. The cost of the oil isn't much of a factor since I change it only once or twice a year. I don't have cats so the zinc, etc. in the diesel oil isn't a factor. Hell, I add ZDDP to my oil.




This is the first I've heard of oil, especially a good one, causing detonation. Does your engine burn a lot of oil?

I agree with @iamdub on this part... I don't think this is related to the oil viscosity.

I would expect pinging on acceleration to be more likely related to fuel/ignition issue. Possibly sticky valves allowing fuel to detonate with a valve partially open when it should still be fully closed for another fraction of a second.

The valves and/or valve lifters might be gummed up and just move to slow for their own good.

Sludge, deposits and general gummy crud is what I suspect might be making a ping on acceleration for you.

 

[bayareadude84]

As @SnowDrifter said, the oil weight and viscosity isn't really for the high ambient temps. It's not a "thicker oil for high temps" thing, it's a "thinner oil for low temps" thing. Low temps don't apply to my climate. I mentioned ambient temps in my response because you specifically asked about what oil in the heat. Operating temp is operating temp as regulated by the cooling system. If the ambient temps are making your engine oil considerably hotter and thinner, then your engine, itself, is running considerably hotter, meaning you have a cooling system deficiency. I run heavy duty oil because I'm ******* my 200K+ mile engine and it just makes me feel better about it. Overkill? Definitely. Harmful? Not at all, according to my UOAs. I'm aware that I'm giving up a few horses and a miniscule amount of MPG due to pumping losses. The cost of the oil isn't much of a factor since I change it only once or twice a year. I don't have cats so the zinc, etc. in the diesel oil isn't a factor. Hell, I add ZDDP to my oil.




This is the first I've heard of oil, especially a good one, causing detonation. Does your engine burn a lot of oil?

1. once or twice a year ?? YIKES !! I drive my burb A LOT and carry heavy loads as it's being used as a work vehicle !! 10 hours a day 5 days a week !!! I do about 5 OCI's a year !!!
2. No it does not burn oil
3. My advice is to watch this video on youtube to prove I'm not making BS about Rotella Gas/Truck having "issues" !! Trust me I was VERY disappointed with this oil and sold off my 200qt stash I stocked up on !!!

Dave

 

[bayareadude84]

I agree with @iamdub on this part... I don't think this is related to the oil viscosity.

I would expect pinging on acceleration to be more likely related to fuel/ignition issue. Possibly sticky valves allowing fuel to detonate with a valve partially open when it should still be fully closed for another fraction of a second.

The valves and/or valve lifters might be gummed up and just move to slow for their own good.

Sludge, deposits and general gummy crud is what I suspect might be making a ping on acceleration for you.

ehhhhhh I have engine flushed and "Seafoamed" my intake twice already ........... So I highly doubt its my valves/lifters

Regarding my engine pinging using Shell Rotella !! Watch this guy's report on RTG

Like I mentioned already. I flushed engine oil twice since purchase and switched to M1/Castrol Magnatec 10W30 and no more pinging !!


Dave

 

[iamdub]

1. once or twice a year ?? YIKES !! I drive my burb A LOT and carry heavy loads as it's being used as a work vehicle !! 10 hours a day 5 days a week !!! I do about 5 OCI's a year !!!
2. No it does not burn oil
3. My advice is to watch this video on youtube to prove I'm not making BS about Rotella Gas/Truck having "issues" !! Trust me I was VERY disappointed with this oil and sold off my 200qt stash I stocked up on !!!

Dave

I have a company van so my Tahoe is a weekend ride at best. Average about 7K a year.

I wasn't doubting you. Just never heard of oil affecting ignition. Maybe we're talking about two different noises here. In that video, he seemed to be mentioning mechanical noise due to lubrication properties which makes perfect sense. You said "pinging BAD during acceleration", which sounds like detonation to me. Unless you were burning a crap ton of oil- enough to lower the net octane rating of what all was being burned in the chamber and/or ran it long enough to build up deposits to cause raised compression and/or hot spots, I don't see how an inferior oil (which the Rotella Gas Truck should not be) would cause detonation.

I don't know how cold it gets where you're at, but I made a cold start vid of mine. It had been sitting outside and not started for two weeks and this was one morning at 32°:

 

[bayareadude84]

I have a company van so my Tahoe is a weekend ride at best. Average about 7K a year.

I wasn't doubting you. Just never heard of oil affecting ignition. Maybe we're talking about two different noises here. In that video, he seemed to be mentioning mechanical noise due to lubrication properties which makes perfect sense. You said "pinging BAD during acceleration", which sounds like detonation to me. Unless you were burning a crap ton of oil- enough to lower the net octane rating of what all was being burned in the chamber and/or ran it long enough to build up deposits to cause raised compression and/or hot spots, I don't see how an inferior oil (which the Rotella Gas Truck should not be) would cause detonation.

?? Sounded like small metal ball bearings rattling during hot summer in Texas running that Shell RTG 5W30. But ONLY with acceleration !! Once I flushed out that Shell crap and started using my stash of Magnatec 10W30 it was all gone and DONE SON !! OVER !!! lol


Dave

 

[iamdub]

?? Sounded like small metal ball bearings rattling during hot summer in Texas running that Shell RTG 5W30. But ONLY with acceleration !! Once I flushed out that Shell crap and started using my stash of Magnatec 10W30 it was all gone and DONE SON !! OVER !!! lol


Dave


View attachment 395378

Certainly interesting results, for sure!

 

[afpj]

Now that Magnetec has been discontinued, replaced with their GTX line, are you gonna move to the GTX full synthetic or go with Castrol edge or?

 

[bayareadude84]

Now that Magnetec has been discontinued, replaced with their GTX line, are you gonna move to the GTX full synthetic or go with Castrol edge or?

I'm not to worried about Magnatec. Luckily I wiped out my local O'reilly's went they put it on clearance. I have enough Magnatec/Edge to last me a few years

Sadly the new Castrol GTX full synthetic(silver colored bottles) was JUST clearanced/removed from Walmart shelves @ $13 each !!! They FLEW off the shelves within days from my local DFW/OKC Walmart stores !! I was only able to get 6-8 jugs of 5W20/5W30 !!!

Soon ill have a MEGA stash of Pennzoil Platinum 10W30, Castrol edge 10W30 and Valvoline advance synthetic 10W30 that ill be getting for "free"

Dave

 

[bayareadude84]

After reading as much of

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

540ratblog.wordpress.com

as my present calamities allowed me to this weekend, I'll be keeping an eye out for the following motor oils:

1. 5W30 Quaker State “Full Synthetic” (abbreviated QSFS), dexos 1 Gen 2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP
2. 5W30 Amsoil Signature Series 100% Synthetic, no certifications, claims it can be used in applications that require GM dexos1-Gen2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP
3. 0W20 Amsoil Signature Series, synthetic. No API symbol, claims it can be used in applications that require API SN, GM dexos 1, ACEA A1/B1.
4. 5W30 Valvoline Full Synthetic Extended Protection, GM dexos1-Gen2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP
5. 5W30 Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic, GM dexos1-Gen2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP, made from natural gas, NOT crude oil
6. 5W30 Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic, GM dexos1-Gen2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP
7. 5W30 Quaker State High Mileage Full Synthetic, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP
8. 0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, synthetic (originally gold, now green bottle)
9. 5W30 Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage with MaxLife Technology, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved (silver bottle)
10. 5W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved, synthetic (originally gold, now green bottle)

With any of those motor oils, I'll keep an eye out for oil filters dimensionally equivalent to PF61.

NICE LIST !!!

PF61= XG3675 which my "go to" filter last few years

So I deal in engine oil as a side THANG to pay for the "fun" stuff in life like, 24PK of Coke, Steak dinners and upgrades on my 82 trans am

I'm keeping your #4,5, 6 in 10W30 flavor for my personal stash I think ill have like 15 jugs of each here soon. Currently I have 2.5 gallons of Delo 400XSP 15W40, 25 gallons of Chevron Delo 400XLE I scored for $3 each lol hehehe


Dave

 

[Marky Dissod]

By reading

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

540ratblog.wordpress.com

I found out that BP bought Castrol, and that Castrol's motor oil quality took a hit shortly thereafter.

 

[bayareadude84]

By reading

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

540ratblog.wordpress.com

I found out that BP bought Castrol, and that Castrol's motor oil quality took a hit shortly thereafter.

You JUST found out ??? BP has owned Castrol for several years??

 

[Marky Dissod]

In which case I'll 'generously' 'donate' whatever Castrol I have left to my nephew, who drives a 2000 Nissan Altima with under 95000 miles. It's as mechanically sound as it is mechanically B O R I N G.
For a '00 Nissan Altima, even a meh 0W30 would be better than the 99cent store motor oil that's likely in it now.

 

[XSGforce]

My 2007 Yukon 5.3 has just over 301,000 miles. I bought it from the original owner who always used Valvoline 5w30 synthetic so that's what I've been using. Now that it's over 300k I may switch to their high mileage synthetic. I think it qualifies. I hear a little bit of lifter rattle on cold starts if it hasn't been driven for two or three days but only for a second or two. As soon as oil pressure comes up the rattle stops.

 

[Flash1976]

Welp summer days are creeping up here in Oklahoma (Already had some 80 degree days)and wondering what motor oil you guys with 200K+ run in hot summer days ?? 90's/100's can stretch for MONTHS !!!



My 01 burb has 210K miles on the LM7 5.3 and Just did a Magnatec 10W30 oil change but starting to hear some lifter/piston slap with cold start ??? I have a CRAP LOAD of Clearance oil from Walmart 5W40 15W40, 10W40, 5W30 lol. I'm saving the Castrol Magnatec, Mobil 1 10W30, Valvoline full syn 10W30 and pennzoil 5W30 full syn in my private stash


Had enough of the heat and "other southern things" and moving back up north this year but still curious what you guys run with high miles ??

I live in the Southern California desert near Palm Springs, we know heat (120F +) and steep grades (12%) so a good cooling system and tranny cooler is key. I have a 2000 Tahoe with 515,000 miles on it, and drive it every day, and anywhere. I have run Mobil 1 always.

 

[j91z28d1]

you seem to have a lot of different oils stocked up. what do you think is the best type and weight for your truck?

 

[j91z28d1]

"I live in the Southern California desert near Palm Springs, we know heat (120F +) and steep grades (12%) so a good cooling system and tranny cooler is key. I have a 2000 Tahoe with 515,000 miles on it, and drive it every day, and anywhere. I have run Mobil 1 always"


that's a lot of miles, what weight do you run?

 

[bayareadude84]

you seem to have a lot of different oils stocked up. what do you think is the best type and weight for your truck?

Looking for opinions. that's why I'm here