rockola1971
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I run 5w-30 until they die or 10w-30 if the leak like a F-14 Tomcat.
200K+ club what oil you run in the heat ??
- Thread starter bayareadude84
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bayareadude84
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You have 2 VERY stupid mechanics. Every time I purchase one of these GMT800s first thing I do is run some oil flush, throw on a crap oil filter and dino oil drive for 100-200 miles, dump oil, replace that $3 oil pump o-ring, oil pan gasket, oil filter adapter gasket, replace with GOOD oil filter, and top tier oil
a $3 o-ring is cheaper than a new engine or rebuild
Dave
bayareadude84
Full Access Member
Multiple sources: Have chatted with some Australian car guys visiting the US in my travels, read on a oil forum, youtube
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
My 04 LM7 5.3L is about 212k miles. I bought it with about 187k. Run 5W-30 year round.
We get close to 100 F in the summer for short bits and I have no idea what people do in Australia or why.
That said, my engine maintains normal operating temperature all year round regardless of how hot it gets. Pressure is great and no issues with cold starts in -0 F temps in winter...
Unless something changes, like @rockola1971 describes and starts leaking like crazy, I will continue to run 5W-30.
I get whatever is on sale locally. Sometimes Valvoline full synthetic, but I have no problem going NAPA synthetic blend (which is actually rebranded Havoline).
We get close to 100 F in the summer for short bits and I have no idea what people do in Australia or why.
That said, my engine maintains normal operating temperature all year round regardless of how hot it gets. Pressure is great and no issues with cold starts in -0 F temps in winter...
Unless something changes, like @rockola1971 describes and starts leaking like crazy, I will continue to run 5W-30.
I get whatever is on sale locally. Sometimes Valvoline full synthetic, but I have no problem going NAPA synthetic blend (which is actually rebranded Havoline).
iamdub
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Just under 222K, often 80° at sunrise and mid- to upper-90s and into the 100s during the days of our 9+ months of summer. I run a 50/50 mix of 5W-40 and 15W-40 Rotella T6 for a 10W-40 average. Mine sees a lot of hard throttle and higher RPM.
SnowDrifter
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Not 200k... Yet....
But I run some euro-spec 0w-40 year-round (thinner 40w oil with good viscosity-temp characteristics. Actually flows better than 5w30 when cold). From negs, to triple digits. I don't believe in putting "thicker" oil in for the summer. The engine isn't air cooled. It keeps its own homeostasis regardless of temp. We also don't have shear-down issues with modern synthetics like we did in the 70s, 80s, 90s. So, like, no point in trying to put something thick / fewest viscosity modifiers in there when temps allow because it won't thin-out over time. Meh.
data:
But I run some euro-spec 0w-40 year-round (thinner 40w oil with good viscosity-temp characteristics. Actually flows better than 5w30 when cold). From negs, to triple digits. I don't believe in putting "thicker" oil in for the summer. The engine isn't air cooled. It keeps its own homeostasis regardless of temp. We also don't have shear-down issues with modern synthetics like we did in the 70s, 80s, 90s. So, like, no point in trying to put something thick / fewest viscosity modifiers in there when temps allow because it won't thin-out over time. Meh.
data:
without looking it up, I think that's well within what gm calls for hot temp oil pressure by rpm.
but I believe the simple test is find a steep drive way or something like a loading dock. back up it and see if your oil pressure goes up. you just gotta cover the o'ring at the front of the engine so it doesn't suck air. I've heard a few extra qt of oil will do it too, pick up some cheap oil before your next oil change and add it in. go check to see if you have higher pressures. but again, check the specs, I'm pretty sure that's good to go. don't leave the extra oil in for long or high rpm.
edit.. I believe this was a 2010ish 5.3 with afm specs. and the ecm allows for 6psi below that for setting a light.
doesn't take much oil pressure to cruise around town, but sucking air and it foaming isn't great for it.
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interesting. you got me searching for why.
I did run across this, it seems European sold corvettes call for a euro spec 0w40 instead of 5w30 dexos rating.
the web site in the thread where they test oil is interesting too.
sorry if linking to other forums is against the rules here, mods just remove it not.
5W30 vs 0W40 - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
C6 Tech/Performance - 5W30 vs 0W40 - For Corvette C6, Z06 owners, many of the U.S. guys like to use is what they call, the 0W40 Euro blend Mobil 1, rather than following GMs U.S. Corvette recommendation of using 5W30 Mobil 1. The 0W40 oil is what GM calls for in the Owners Manual and also on the...
www.corvetteforum.com
rockola1971
Full Access Member
Likely because the European spec equivalent of the U.S. Spec is not available or even made. It would be almost impossible to find the constant steady stock of U.S. spec oil in Europe so the auto manufacturers (in the U.S.) had to try some spec to see if it meets the engine requirements and came of with the Euro Spec of 0w40 which would meet the warranty needs.
bayareadude84
Full Access Member
Hmmm.... I do Have some old Carquest(valvoline) fulll syn 5W-40 SN rated diesel oil from when they switched to Fram products !! Also have some gallons of Delo 400XSP 15W40 full syn but not sure if thats to thick even for our southern 100+ summers ???
I do know that my rig didnt like the Rotella gas/truck 5W30 I ran in it last summer !! Boy was she pinging BAD during accelration !!!! Luckily some "Free" Mobil 1 10W30 saved the day and ALL noise went away !!
Dave
