2009 yukon

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bigred78

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I recently purchased a 2009 Yukon xl with 170,000kms on it. I am sure it was neglected and had very few oil changes.
After I got it, it sounded like 4 or so Lifters ticking loudly.
So put some cleaner in with the oil. Ran it for 5 minutes, then changed filter and oil. The sound of the engine changed dramatically and now only one lifter ticking very loudly. My mechanic friend took covers off and one lifter was stuck.
We couldn't get it unstuck.
Any suggestions?
Should I just order a set of Lifters and have it done?
What are these updated Lifters? Where would he the cheapest place to buy them?
Thanks
Sean.

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swathdiver

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I recently purchased a 2009 Yukon xl with 170,000kms on it. I am sure it was neglected and had very few oil changes.
After I got it, it sounded like 4 or so Lifters ticking loudly.
So put some cleaner in with the oil. Ran it for 5 minutes, then changed filter and oil. The sound of the engine changed dramatically and now only one lifter ticking very loudly. My mechanic friend took covers off and one lifter was stuck.
We couldn't get it unstuck.
Any suggestions?
Should I just order a set of Lifters and have it done?
What are these updated Lifters? Where would he the cheapest place to buy them?
Thanks
Sean.

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There's a guy on youtube who took an old pushrod and with the head still on the motor used the pushrod to get the collapsed lifter unstuck and since he did that, the AFM system had to be disabled in the tune.. It worked for a time but he had to pull the head and replace the lifters anyhow.

So now you have a choice, replace the AFM system or delete it physically and turn it off in the tune.

The latest lifters are: Standard Lifters: 12648846, Improved De-Ac: 12645725

You'll also want to replace all the lifter guides, they get brittle and crack and allow the lifter to move and it in turn wipes out the camshaft lobe.

Improved VLOM: 12571609 and Improved Driver's Side Valve Cover: 12642655.

If you're going to tear the motor down this much, you might as well pull the oil pan and get rid of all the sludge inside. Leaving it in there and then running synthetic oil always causes all kinds of heartaches. You can then put in a fresh pick-up tube o-ring and the AFM Relief Valve Deflector: 12639759.
 

swathdiver

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Is this an absolute? I saw a vide on the LS motors where a guy pulled the rods and was able to remove the lifters with an extending magnetic grabber.

By letting them fall out the bottom after pulling the camshaft? If so, don't know, never considered it.
 
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bigred78

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Thanks for all the replies. We tried banging on the lifter with a old rod when removing valve cover. Didn't free up. On the LS motor, if you take the intake off. Can you bang on the lifter from the other angle?

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swathdiver

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Thanks for all the replies. We tried banging on the lifter with a old rod when removing valve cover. Didn't free up. On the LS motor, if you take the intake off. Can you bang on the lifter from the other angle?

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When you pull the valley cover there are 4 posts with two holes each. These holes lead right to the AFM De-Ac lifters and the part in them that gets stuck and causes them to collapse. A guy turned down a pushrod and tried to tap the lifter to get it to extend again and then tune out AFM. Let me see if I can find his youtube channel so you can watch...

Here it is:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPv3FhkMx3e--ndF_d_x6ZA/videos

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bigred78

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Thanks for all the replies.
Looks like I am gonna replace the Lifters. Where is a good spot to buy a set of the new style Lifters? I think I replace and buy a programmer and turn off afm. Is there a kit you can buy to replace Lifters, valve guides and all seals needed?
Thanks.

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