2007 Yukon Denali stalling

[Doubeleive]

It seems the dreaded P0011 code has reappeared. Not sure what is the next step other than thinking it is a cam chain tensioning issue or the chain is stretched?

If you didn't use oem parts it's possible one of them has failed already

 

[Bruce Mace]

If you didn't use oem parts it's possible one of them has failed already

All OEM parts

 

[Doubeleive]

well I guess it's back to Wade's drawing board to troubleshoot

 

[wjburken]

@Bruce Mace,

First off, Merry Christmas my friend. Hope you are able to enjoy time with loved ones today.

Sorry to hear that you are still getting the P0011 code.

A couple questions.
1) You said that the wiring for your Cam Position Sensor, Crank Position Sensor and the VVT Solenoid were all good. Who checked them and how were they checked? Was it a visual check or did someone put a multi-meter on them and check for proper voltage, resistance and continuity?

2) Who replaced the VVT Actuator that threads into the end of the camshaft and holds then VVT phaser sprocket on? Was the proper torquing steps followed where it is pre-torqued and then torqued-to-angle?

If both of these were done properly, then I would start thinking about tearing into your timing chain cover and seeing what going on. Just want to make sure you have exhausted everything else first, which I think you have, to the best of my limited knowledge and based on what you have shared here.

If you do tear into it, I would just plan on replacing the whole timing chain set up: VVT phaser Sprocket, VVT Actuator, crank sprocket, timing chain and timing chain tensioner while you are in there.

I’m not sure if this is something you would be doing or if you would be hiring this done. If you are doing it yourself, there are a few things you might want to keep in mind. If I am not mistaken, to replace the timing chain, you need to remove the oil pump. GM did not do you any favors here. I had to do all of this to replace the camshaft on my 2007 6.2L AWD Denali. Basically, you need to drop the front differential, if it’s AWD, and lower the steering rack, remove the front frame cross member, and then drop the oil pan, remove the oil pick-up tube. That will let you take off the oil pump. (If others have a short cut or trick that doesn’t include hoping you don’t drop the pick/up tube bolt into the oil pan, please speak up.)

With that said, you will need a new oil pan gasket and I would get a new O-ring for your oil pick-up tube as well since you will be in there and these have a habit of going bad. You will also need some RTV to seal the corners where the front timing cover and rear cover and oil pan all meet.

Others may chime in, and I hope they do, with some other thoughts, but you have been dealing with this since May, if I read correctly, and have thrown a list of OEM parts at it and still have your issue. Might be time to bite the bullet.

 

[vettes980]

that could fix it but the solenoids will need replacement as it's getting stuck


replace the water pump and Magnetic solenoid actuator, along with cam position sensor.


as well as the belt too it might be old too... also check the pulleys and make sure they are good while everything is apart

So I’m still experiencing stalling after about 20 minutes of driving. I’ve swapped the camshaft sensor OE, crank sensor OE, fuel pump Delphi, magnetic VVT solenoid OE. Again I have never gotten any codes. My good friend who is in Az brought up transmission from day one, theorizing that the TC is staying locked up. I’ve been able to hold the wife off from dumping this thing but at 3k for a reman 6L80 I’m not sure I can stomach a replacement and it not work. I also feel like taking it to a mechanic will just be flushing money. Anyone in Raleigh know a trusted mechanic? Now way this goes to a dealer.


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[swathdiver]

So I’m still experiencing stalling after about 20 minutes of driving. I’ve swapped the camshaft sensor OE, crank sensor OE, fuel pump Delphi, magnetic VVT solenoid OE. Again I have never gotten any codes. My good friend who is in Az brought up transmission from day one, theorizing that the TC is staying locked up. I’ve been able to hold the wife off from dumping this thing but at 3k for a reman 6L80 I’m not sure I can stomach a replacement and it not work. I also feel like taking it to a mechanic will just be flushing money. Anyone in Raleigh know a trusted mechanic? Now way this goes to a dealer.


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Greg, can that scan tool of yours talk to the transmission's computer? Could be codes stored in there. Flow GMC is absolutely honest folks over in Winston-Salem, too far away. They have another dealership down in Fayette 'Nam; probably too far away too.

 

[vettes980]

Greg, can that scan tool of yours talk to the transmission's computer? Could be codes stored in there. Flow GMC is absolutely honest folks over in Winston-Salem, too far away. They have another dealership down in Fayette 'Nam; probably too far away too.

Yes, my scanner can communicate w trans. Should I be able to have it up and active and see anything w live data when I know it’s about to stall? Both those places are a haul, my neighbor and a bunch of folks on Nextdoor recommend a independent near me I will probably consult with if I get to that point.


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[swathdiver]

Yes, my scanner can communicate w trans. Should I be able to have it up and active and see anything w live data when I know it’s about to stall? Both those places are a haul, my neighbor and a bunch of folks on Nextdoor recommend a independent near me I will probably consult with if I get to that point.


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i would be looking in the torque converter module but also the pressures, not sure what to look for. If codes are thrown, the computer takes a snapshot which you can view later with the righ tool. I had a car that would randomly stall, the only car I bought brand new, and it took several months for the dealer to find a bent pin on a wire harness. It took their top man almost a week to find it, but he was dogged and did get it finally.

 

[Bruce Mace]

@Bruce Mace,

First off, Merry Christmas my friend. Hope you are able to enjoy time with loved ones today.

Sorry to hear that you are still getting the P0011 code.

A couple questions.
1) You said that the wiring for your Cam Position Sensor, Crank Position Sensor and the VVT Solenoid were all good. Who checked them and how were they checked? Was it a visual check or did someone put a multi-meter on them and check for proper voltage, resistance and continuity?

2) Who replaced the VVT Actuator that threads into the end of the camshaft and holds then VVT phaser sprocket on? Was the proper torquing steps followed where it is pre-torqued and then torqued-to-angle?

If both of these were done properly, then I would start thinking about tearing into your timing chain cover and seeing what going on. Just want to make sure you have exhausted everything else first, which I think you have, to the best of my limited knowledge and based on what you have shared here.

If you do tear into it, I would just plan on replacing the whole timing chain set up: VVT phaser Sprocket, VVT Actuator, crank sprocket, timing chain and timing chain tensioner while you are in there.

I’m not sure if this is something you would be doing or if you would be hiring this done. If you are doing it yourself, there are a few things you might want to keep in mind. If I am not mistaken, to replace the timing chain, you need to remove the oil pump. GM did not do you any favors here. I had to do all of this to replace the camshaft on my 2007 6.2L AWD Denali. Basically, you need to drop the front differential, if it’s AWD, and lower the steering rack, remove the front frame cross member, and then drop the oil pan, remove the oil pick-up tube. That will let you take off the oil pump. (If others have a short cut or trick that doesn’t include hoping you don’t drop the pick/up tube bolt into the oil pan, please speak up.)

With that said, you will need a new oil pan gasket and I would get a new O-ring for your oil pick-up tube as well since you will be in there and these have a habit of going bad. You will also need some RTV to seal the corners where the front timing cover and rear cover and oil pan all meet.

Others may chime in, and I hope they do, with some other thoughts, but you have been dealing with this since May, if I read correctly, and have thrown a list of OEM parts at it and still have your issue. Might be time to bite the bullet.

Thank you so much for your info, and your greetings, back to you I will be having the work done by a very qualified mechanic, and I will have the things replaced that you have suggested and see if this issue can be finally dealt with. Thanks again!

 

[vettes980]

i would be looking in the torque converter module but also the pressures, not sure what to look for. If codes are thrown, the computer takes a snapshot which you can view later with the righ tool. I had a car that would randomly stall, the only car I bought brand new, and it took several months for the dealer to find a bent pin on a wire harness. It took their top man almost a week to find it, but he was dogged and did get it finally.

No trans codes are present current or history. I can read all the pressures at all 6 solenoids among other things but my scanner cannot actuate or run any cleaning commands to them. Sitting there idling, all items monitored were within range per my scanner, FWIW. I’ll keep it hooked up next time I’m out with it and have the live data up when I know it will stall.


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[wjburken]

Thank you so much for your info, and your greetings, back to you I will be having the work done by a very qualified mechanic, and I will have the things replaced that you have suggested and see if this issue can be finally dealt with. Thanks again!

Sounds good. Please report back with how things workout.

 

[BG1988]

No trans codes are present current or history. I can read all the pressures at all 6 solenoids among other things but my scanner cannot actuate or run any cleaning commands to them. Sitting there idling, all items monitored were within range per my scanner, FWIW. I’ll keep it hooked up next time I’m out with it and have the live data up when I know it will stall.


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check the power connections mine was acting up transmission was playing dead.

basically it would not go, i had to keep the rpm at 1,000 just to keep it from stalling out..

check and see if there is any stressed cables those are the ones that have the bad connections

today I had adjust the power cable (released the stress by giving it some slack by adjusting the battery location slighty) as it's internally damaged.. these NNBS are sensitive to issues with the power cables and the power delivery(as they made changes to the NNBS) but i know for sure mine are damaged.. I messed with them abit you can see the cable suffered major damage...from an accident (that the dealer lied about)
it takes a ton of force to get those crimps apart.


i'll be ordering new cables soon hope the damage is limited to just the break out cable (39$)as the second part of the positive power cable is $250 just for a Proprietary electrical cable
i can afford to buy it but rather use that 250$ for something else like maintenance or new shocks in the rear

 

[vettes980]

check the power connections mine was acting up transmission was playing dead.

basically it would not go, i had to keep the rpm at 1,000 just to keep it from stalling out..

check and see if there is any stressed cables those are the ones that have the bad connections

today I had adjust the power cable (released the stress by giving it some slack by adjusting the battery location slighty) as it's internally damaged.. these NNBS are sensitive to issues with the power cables and the power delivery(as they made changes to the NNBS) but i know for sure mine are damaged.. I messed with them abit you can see the cable suffered major damage...from an accident (that the dealer lied about)
it takes a ton of force to get those crimps apart.


i'll be ordering new cables soon hope the damage is limited to just the break out cable (39$)as the second part of the positive power cable is $250 just for a Proprietary electrical cable
i can afford to buy it but rather use that 250$ for something else like maintenance or new shocks in the rear

View attachment 238334

The amount of electrical gremlins in these trucks is maddening! My issue is pretty easy to replicate and only happens warm and when coming to a stop. If it’s a transmission going I will pry just say goodbye to it. Hopefully it’s a TCC solenoid or bad converter at worse. I now wish I was on here before I bought my Autel Scanner as I can’t run the diags on the transmission system like the Tech2 can.


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[swathdiver]

The amount of electrical gremlins in these trucks is maddening! My issue is pretty easy to replicate and only happens warm and when coming to a stop. If it’s a transmission going I will pry just say goodbye to it. Hopefully it’s a TCC solenoid or bad converter at worse. I now wish I was on here before I bought my Autel Scanner as I can’t run the diags on the transmission system like the Tech2 can.


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Get a Tech-2, lot less expensive than a new car or throwing parts at it. Or, where do you live? Maybe someone here lives nearby and has one?

 

[TsaWind]

Hello, I signed up here just to post on this thread.
I too have a 2007 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L currently 175k, bought with front end damage at 140k
We have had stalling issues.

This is going to sound crazy...
I believe you are vapor locking.

We had to wrap our fuel rail with insulation because our truck would stall when coming to a stop on summer days when pulling a trailer with weight. There are probably many other fixes, but basically the fuel rail got so hot that the gas inside it turned to a vapor, increasing psi and causing the motor to only restart after if cooled off.

After we solved this we drove for about a year without a stall.
Then we had to install a new VVT bolt thingy, we are on our second cam sensor and first crank sensor replacement.
Drove for over a year without a stall.

 

[swathdiver]

Hello, I signed up here just to post on this thread.
I too have a 2007 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L currently 175k, bought with front end damage at 140k
We have had stalling issues.

This is going to sound crazy...
I believe you are vapor locking.

We had to wrap our fuel rail with insulation because our truck would stall when coming to a stop on summer days when pulling a trailer with weight. There are probably many other fixes, but basically the fuel rail got so hot that the gas inside it turned to a vapor, increasing psi and causing the motor to only restart after if cooled off.

After we solved this we drove for about a year without a stall.
Then we had to install a new VVT bolt thingy, we are on our second cam sensor and first crank sensor replacement.
Drove for over a year without a stall.

Welcome Travis and thanks for posting that fix.

 

[vettes980]

I’ve confirmed my stalling is transmission related. Not sure what the final resolution will ultimately be, but I have corrected the stalling with a bottle of additive given to me by my local transmission shop. I’m hoping a few weeks of driving with this additive and then a filter and fluid change will prolong the life. Still not sure if it’s a converter, valve body or solenoid.

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[Brandonshane74]

I’ve confirmed my stalling is transmission related. Not sure what the final resolution will ultimately be, but I have corrected the stalling with a bottle of additive given to me by my local transmission shop. I’m hoping a few weeks of driving with this additive and then a filter and fluid change will prolong the life. Still not sure if it’s a converter, valve body or solenoid.

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Did the additive help with stalling? Mine is doing the exact same as yours. I’m at a loss. I’ve but the additive in and it makes it harder to stall but I can still make it stall.

 

[vettes980]

Did the additive help with stalling? Mine is doing the exact same as yours. I’m at a loss. I’ve but the additive in and it makes it harder to stall but I can still make it stall.

The additive stopped my stalling for 5 months. I then changed the fluid and added another bottle of this additive and trouble free driving for 2500 miles. Long trips short trips, normal trips and no issues.


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[upnorth76]

I hope this helps some of you...


Ok people. Here it is. The REAL PROBLEM for me and most likely for 90% of you out there is this!!!

Bit of background. I’m a licensed tech in Canada 21yrs. Experience. Worked at Dealerships for 17 years including GM for 4yrs.... anyway....

My truck: 2007 Denali: 6.2L - 6L90 trans. 385,000km ( 240,000 miles )

First, my symptoms: random stalling/ NO RESTART after towing/HOT. Then after awhile random stalling NOT TOWING, turning left/right etc...
At first wasnt setting any codes other than a random shift solenoid code in trans. Then later on setting low oil pressure code P0521. ( prob have cracked o-ring on oil pick up tube )

Tried new fuel pump relay and thought I had fixed it... nope. Then replaced fuel pump w/ ACDELCO unit... thought it was good... nope.

THEN TRIED: cleaning battery connections, clean 175A fuse connections on pass firewall, checked PCM pins for backing out/ added dielectric grease to help prevent “ fretting” as/per GM TSB, removed underhood fuseblock/ JUNCTIONBLOCK, checked all pins in base mounted connectors/ looked good/ applied dielectric grease to all, added trans “ medic” additive to trans fluid, test drove to get trans to oper. temp. then serviced trans. using proper fluid ( this is to address the issue related to suspected TCC CLUTCH/ solenoid/ valve sticking ) I didn’t suspect this because when that happens you get a noticeable LURCH/Bucking when Yukon stalls out and I think most people ( including me ) aren’t getting the lurching/ stalling.
ALSO added GUNK ENGINE FLUSH and 1L ATF ( atf in engine crankcase is a great cleaner because atf contains lots of detergents ) to crankcase to flush engine lube system. This was to address possible VCT valve/ phaser sticking causing stalling after coming to stop from hwy. speed/ heavy loaded condition. Serviced engine w/ 0w40 Mobil 1...

DID ALL OF THIS IN ONE NIGHT... because I didn’t have time to mess around doing it one at a time to see what fixed it... ANYWAY... NOTHING WORKED. Drove for long test drive at high speed, seemed ok, thought it was fixed, wife was driving it two days later in stop and go traffic and it stalled again.

This time ENGINE POWER REDUCED MESSAGE AND ENGINE OVERTEMP. MESSAGE CAME ON IN CLUSTER.

So then I finally broke down and fixed what I suspected to be the REAL problem all along but is really EXPENSIVE!!

Faulty underhood fuse block w/ integrated PCB ( printed circuit board ). Circuit board cracks, and various circuits open up when underhood TEMPS get HIGH!!

Costs $850+tax at the dealership in Canada. Will cost you about $600 in the U.S.

Replaced this and haven’t had any problems since then.

Have had TONS of issues which these while working at the GM dealer but didn’t want to try it first since they are pricey $$$.

Fixed stalling issue and reduced power message etc...

I think this is probably the problem for most of you guys... I Hope this helps someone.