2007 Tahoe Sporadic Parasitic Battery Drain

[Charlie Yukon]

Help! I am at wits end on this issue. I have very well maintained 2007 Tahoe that started having a dead battery issue. I originally thought it was just the battery, but after several replacements have discovered it’s a parasitic draw. It happens sporadically however, not every night. The last interval was 30 days between dead batteries. In the past it has gone multiple months between dead batteries.

I have had multiple mechanics in on this as well as my local dealer where I purchased it new. They all have run an Amp draw monitor, as I have too, the last being my local dealer who monitored it for 3 days on an amp meter. The electric system appears to function normally, going to sleep and pulling about 14mA while sleeping. Nothing woke up.

I needed the Tahoe for the weekend, so I picked it up from the dealer after they monitored it for 3 days and finding nothing. That was a Friday. On Saturday we drove it about 75 -100 miles, then parked it in the garage. On Sunday I backed it out of the garage to empty the equipment and pulled it back into the garage. It sat the rest of the day Sunday and Sunday night. On Monday morning, it was dead again. The battery voltage read 7.3V.

I don’t want to just start spending $ to replace components that are the usual suspects (Nav Display and system, Bose Radio/Amp, instrument display, a/c controller, etc.).

Any thoughts or experiences or help is much appreciated!

If it's got a glove box light ck the switch, happened to me on a blazer. Maybe keep a security camera on it for dome lights, door switch? GOOD luck.

 

[Fless]

My question about reseating fuses fits with this. All electrical connection points, maybe especially ground connections, should be checked.

joe

I'd recommend disconnecting the negative battery cable before "exercising" the fuse contacts. There will be far fewer codes to deal with after it's reconnected.

 

[kbuskill]

You said it is an '07. I would check to make sure all software is up to date. I remember there was a TSB about the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) module (this is also what your TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) works on) having issues on the 2007 MY.

I can't recall if it was that it wouldn't go to sleep or if it wouldn't wake up. I think it was that it wouldn't wake up, but it is worth looking into as a possible cause.

 

[mikez71]

06-06-03-009 Chevrolet Technical Service Bulletin

06-06-03-009 Chevrolet Technical Service Bulletin

www.tsbsearch.com

PIT5066A Chevrolet Technical Service Bulletin

PIT5066A Chevrolet Technical Service Bulletin

www.tsbsearch.com

08-06-03-008A Chevrolet Technical Service Bulletin

08-06-03-008A Chevrolet Technical Service Bulletin

www.tsbsearch.com

Here's a few..
I saw something about the auto HVAC not going to sleep for upto 4+ hours, and that it's normal..
Some update to do with the afterblow function. (auto hvac)
One mentions the BCM might not go to sleep if you left anything plugged in.
And another mentions possible pinched wires or sticking fuel pump relay.

 

[Gearz]

My 2011 Tahoe LTZ had a parasitic draw, using a fluke meter I found that it was drawing 200ma every 50 minutes then back to normal 20ma. When removing the fuses you need to wait 10- 20 minutes then retest. I found fuses 15 & 17 removed at the same time and the problem went away but it was impossible to remove them because the BCM was on the circuit so I threw a dart and replaced the BCM and it fixed the problem. Cost $500 because the dealer had to reprogram the new BCM. 2007 was known for BCM issues so I would check the P/N and see if yours was replaced. There are some TSB's out there talking about intermittent dead batteries. This is very hard to pinpoint as you are aware. I also replace the engine and neg battery grounds and cleaned all other grounds I could find. I have also have had radios, amps and onstar modules not go to sleep on different trucks causing dead batteries.

 

[mike singleton]

Help! I am at wits end on this issue. I have very well maintained 2007 Tahoe that started having a dead battery issue. I originally thought it was just the battery, but after several replacements have discovered it’s a parasitic draw. It happens sporadically however, not every night. The last interval was 30 days between dead batteries. In the past it has gone multiple months between dead batteries.

I have had multiple mechanics in on this as well as my local dealer where I purchased it new. They all have run an Amp draw monitor, as I have too, the last being my local dealer who monitored it for 3 days on an amp meter. The electric system appears to function normally, going to sleep and pulling about 14mA while sleeping. Nothing woke up.

I needed the Tahoe for the weekend, so I picked it up from the dealer after they monitored it for 3 days and finding nothing. That was a Friday. On Saturday we drove it about 75 -100 miles, then parked it in the garage. On Sunday I backed it out of the garage to empty the equipment and pulled it back into the garage. It sat the rest of the day Sunday and Sunday night. On Monday morning, it was dead again. The battery voltage read 7.3V.

I don’t want to just start spending $ to replace components that are the usual suspects (Nav Display and system, Bose Radio/Amp, instrument display, a/c controller, etc.).

Any thoughts or experiences or help is much appreciated!

Disconnect the fuse for the radio/power amp. The power amps located in the bottom of the console are famous for a parasitic dray.

 

[shegarty]

Not sure if this is a problem with the newer model years but the door locks on my 04 get sticky and sometimes don't know that they are open/closed/locked and the truck won't start its sleep cycle. It's intermittent and you can't really tell unless you have the radio on or its dark and you notice the interior lights still on. I've had this drain the battery a few times.

 

[OR VietVet]

These ignition switches are known for intermittent problems: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14079925&cc=1433255&pt=4700&jsn=695

 

[JD12]

My 2011 Tahoe LTZ had a parasitic draw, using a fluke meter I found that it was drawing 200ma every 50 minutes then back to normal 20ma. When removing the fuses you need to wait 10- 20 minutes then retest. I found fuses 15 & 17 removed at the same time and the problem went away but it was impossible to remove them because the BCM was on the circuit so I threw a dart and replaced the BCM and it fixed the problem. Cost $500 because the dealer had to reprogram the new BCM. 2007 was known for BCM issues so I would check the P/N and see if yours was replaced. There are some TSB's out there talking about intermittent dead batteries. This is very hard to pinpoint as you are aware. I also replace the engine and neg battery grounds and cleaned all other grounds I could find. I have also have had radios, amps and onstar modules not go to sleep on different trucks causing dead batteries.

BCM is a common contributor, checking and cleaning ground connections should be considered routine maintenance. i add some dielectric grease when i retighten.


link for “pre-programmed” BCM cheaper than unprogrammed from major auto suppliers.

Programmed 2007-2011 Yukon XL 1500 BCM | 15263497 | Plug & Play

End Electrical Gremlins for GoodTired of unpredictable electrical problems in your Yukon XL? Restore your peace of mind with this pre-programmed Body Control Module. It's the simple, reliable fix for faulty lights, locks, and climate controls, making your SUV safe and comfortable for your family...

highway71autoparts.com

 

[Dlewis59]

These are all great suggestions! Thanks to all of you for contributing. Here’s an update.

I have been using the Power probe monitor for 12-18 hours a day (usually overnight) to record the draw going on during that time. I have run it 6 times now. It has shown a normal shutdown draw between 14mA and 32mA over the recording cycle. On 5 of the recordings it identified between 1 and 3 spikes of draw above 50mA for 1 second. The highest was 204mA. But again all for 1 second, then immediately straight down to the 14 -32mA range.

I’m going to continue monitoring as I start to troubleshoot some of the excellent suggestions here.

 

[homesick]

This is from way out in left field, but you never know...

Pearl lives plugged into a battery tender when not being driven, because she sometimes sits for weeks without being driven.

Last week, the battery [new, btw] was stone-cold dead.

It took a couple of days to determine that a prior owner had replaced all interior lights with LEDs. One of them went bad, and there I was- with an intermittent parasitic draw [or, possibly, some kind of reverse voltage].

We reinstalled new, stock bulbs.

joe

 

[Dlewis59]

This is from way out in left field, but you never know...

Pearl lives plugged into a battery tender when not being driven, because she sometimes sits for weeks without being driven.

Last week, the battery [new, btw] was stone-cold dead.

It took a couple of days to determine that a prior owner had replaced all interior lights with LEDs. One of them went bad, and there I was- with an intermittent parasitic draw [or, possibly, some kind of reverse voltage].

We reinstalled new, stock bulbs.

joe

Thanks Joe. That's an interesting one. I haven't replaced any bulbs except a front headlamp. Hmmmm.....

 

[Dlewis59]

I thought I'd update everyone here. I have run the Draw Monitor 10 times for 12 - 18 hours each time. Thought I'd share the "blow by blow" in case it sparks a thought. Sure appreciate everyone's feedback thus far. I'm going to be checking each of of your suggestions out individually as nothing has surfaced with my monitoring yet.

10/2 - Between 17 and 25 mA except for one spike of 83mA for 1 second, 2 hours after going to sleep
10/4 - 11:04:47pm - 193mA for 1 second; 7:07:28am - 120mA for 1 second; rest between 14 and 25mA
10/6 - 9:36:41pm - 193mA for 1 second; 10:37:00 - 192mA for 1 second; 4:38:59 - 138mA for 1 second; rest between 14 and 25mA
10/10 - Note: Locked doors, security system on; 3:20:58pm - 199mA for 1 second; 4:21:19pm - 74mA for 1 second; 10:23:12pm - 196mA for 1 second; 6:25:44am - 98mA for 1 second; rest all below 50mA
10/11 - Note: Locked doors, security system on; 9:50:54pm - 199mA for 1 second; 10:51:11pm - 201mA for 1 second; 4:53:10am - 204mA for 1 second; rest between 22 and 32mA
10/12 - Note: Locked doors, security system on; No spikes; all between 20 and 31mA;
10/14 - Np locks or security on; 4:30:54pm - 203mA for 1 second; 11:33:27pm - 203mA for 1 second; 7:36:31am - 203mA for 1 second; rest between 22 and 44mA;
10/15 - no locks or security on; 7:20:33pm - 198mA for 1 second; 8:20:52pm at 74mA for 1 second; rest between 17 and 20mA
10/16 - no locks or security on; 3:35:53pm - 198mA for 1 second; 10:38:12pm - 62mA for 1 second; 10:38:13pm - 93mA for 1 second; rest were between 20 and 47mA; NOTE - this is the only time I saw above 50mA for 2 seconds....
10/17 - no locks or security on; 9:30:45pm - 198mA for 1 second; 10:31:02pm - 57mA for 1 second; 4:32:56am - 205mA for 1 second; rest between 19 and 29mA.

That's it so far.

 

[kbuskill]

I thought I'd update everyone here. I have run the Draw Monitor 10 times for 12 - 18 hours each time. Thought I'd share the "blow by blow" in case it sparks a thought. Sure appreciate everyone's feedback thus far. I'm going to be checking each of of your suggestions out individually as nothing has surfaced with my monitoring yet.

10/2 - Between 17 and 25 mA except for one spike of 83mA for 1 second, 2 hours after going to sleep
10/4 - 11:04:47pm - 193mA for 1 second; 7:07:28am - 120mA for 1 second; rest between 14 and 25mA
10/6 - 9:36:41pm - 193mA for 1 second; 10:37:00 - 192mA for 1 second; 4:38:59 - 138mA for 1 second; rest between 14 and 25mA
10/10 - Note: Locked doors, security system on; 3:20:58pm - 199mA for 1 second; 4:21:19pm - 74mA for 1 second; 10:23:12pm - 196mA for 1 second; 6:25:44am - 98mA for 1 second; rest all below 50mA
10/11 - Note: Locked doors, security system on; 9:50:54pm - 199mA for 1 second; 10:51:11pm - 201mA for 1 second; 4:53:10am - 204mA for 1 second; rest between 22 and 32mA
10/12 - Note: Locked doors, security system on; No spikes; all between 20 and 31mA;
10/14 - Np locks or security on; 4:30:54pm - 203mA for 1 second; 11:33:27pm - 203mA for 1 second; 7:36:31am - 203mA for 1 second; rest between 22 and 44mA;
10/15 - no locks or security on; 7:20:33pm - 198mA for 1 second; 8:20:52pm at 74mA for 1 second; rest between 17 and 20mA
10/16 - no locks or security on; 3:35:53pm - 198mA for 1 second; 10:38:12pm - 62mA for 1 second; 10:38:13pm - 93mA for 1 second; rest were between 20 and 47mA; NOTE - this is the only time I saw above 50mA for 2 seconds....
10/17 - no locks or security on; 9:30:45pm - 198mA for 1 second; 10:31:02pm - 57mA for 1 second; 4:32:56am - 205mA for 1 second; rest between 19 and 29mA.

That's it so far.

The only "pattern" I can see is it seems to "wake-up" or something after 1 hr and again at 6-7 hrs.

Or maybe I'm crazy.

 

[Dlewis59]

Well, I’m down to monitoring it and shutting off specific fuses at night to try to isolate the module over time. I took the tahoe to our Chevy dealer and they had it for a week monitoring and testing it, did a voltage drop test, and they reported that the only thing they see is a normal 14mA draw plus a 30mA draw for the security system. They recommended removing the security system (that they or the factory put in!). 34mA is not the problem, so I’m not doing that. The voltage drop test was normal on the positive and negative cables. So I’ll be installing this under the hood initially and over time see if it happens again. uxcell 1 Set 71.7cm 28.23"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJCCYL2S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[dkad260]

My question about reseating fuses fits with this. All electrical connection points, maybe especially ground connections, should be checked.

joe

I'm thinking this also..... @Dlewis59 did you also check the ground strap on the LH side from the firewall? I think there are a few on the frame under the drivers seat. Corroded terminals will have more resistance and pull more current. I can't think of much more than either the BCM needing a reflash or the radio/nav possibly pulling the current.

Going back to your OP post....

2007 Tahoe that started having a dead battery issue. I originally thought it was just the battery, but after several replacements have discovered it’s a parasitic draw

What maintenance or work did you do prior to this? Even if it was a month before?