2006 Tahoe/AC charged but Compressor not turning

[Mudsport96]

Ok. Power to the clutch is possible.
But as explained, the problem began as a properly working ac.

Cool sounds like what happened with my Silverado.
A/C worked then would not even with 12v at the compressor plug.

Start the engine, put ac on max to energize the coil.

Get a 2 foot wooden stick.

And tap the face of the compressor into the pulley with the SIDE of the stick. If it engages the problem is the clutch face is worn out od spec. The air gap it too wide for the coil to pull it in. I measured mine and picked up 3 from the junkyard. All good now

 

[Mudsport96]

Alternatively, feeler gauges in the air gap for the compressor to measure the gap between. 022 and .030 to check if it is in spec

 

[glmoore0001]

I will try the stick, it reminds me of the hammer to the starter fix

 

[glmoore0001]

Nope, the Ole Stick Trick did not work.

 

[glmoore0001]

I also found the Auto Button. I put it in Auto and now cannot turn it off Does that kind of confirm the control being bad? Thanks.. Gary

 

[OR VietVet]

I also found the Auto Button. I put it in Auto and now cannot turn it off Does that kind of confirm the control being bad? Thanks.. Gary

Unhook the positive battery cable and wait a couple minutes and then reattach and see what happens. Report here.

 

[glmoore0001]

Let me ask you this. When the clutch is engaged, does the very center of the compressor turn or is the clutch rotating around the center of the compressor? Looking at the compressor, a half inch or so of the face is turning with the pulley, the center is not. Does this mean the clutch is not engaged? Looking closely at the clutch face there seems to be some type of dry material (it is similar to dry grease) that has come out below that half inch of the face that turns.
I am used to the clutch being the complete face of the compressor and I know the clutch on my Dodge Ram is engaged when everything is turning with the pulley.
Sorry for the ignorance. Gary

 

[Mudsport96]

Ok so...

The red area the belt is on spins all the time.
When the wires going to the compressor are energized with 12 volts the blue section gets magnetically pulled to the red part.
Then BOTH the blue and green areas spin WITH the red.
I was as work earlier so i wasn't real clear. Tapping the blue area toward the red while the ac is on max/recirculating is what i did to figure out my clutch gap was too wide. If you tap the green nothing happens.

 

[nonickatall]

Are you sure that the AC was not stop cooling when you switched off the AC? I takes some time until it stops blowing cool air, after you switch of the system.

If your ac will not switch off when you disengage I can only imagine that your magnetic clutch or the related relais stucks.

I've seen a lot of Ac's which will not switch on, due to technical problems, but never one which will not stop cooling...

So check it, if you measure on the connector of the compressor, if there is 12v, when you switch on the AC, and if the 12v disappear when you switch of the AC.
If, your magnetic clutch is defect.
If not, put 12 v on the compressor, if the clutch engage and disengage the problem comes from the compressor relais or the control unit.

 

[glmoore0001]

Sorry for the delay, I am finally getting back to this problem.
Yes, It is for sure that the AC stayed on before the it quit cooling for good. I have always used it in manual mode,
if you read above, I did not know the auto even existed. I put it on dash vent, and used the
snowflake button for AC. The last time it worked, I had the windows down and noticed the cold air was not going off.
I finally hit the snowflake button a few times, turned the unit off and on. It then made a honking? squeaking? kind of
noise, shot off and did not work afterwards.
OK, i will try what you suggest. I had planned to check the clearance as suggested by Mudsport also.
Thanks.. Gary

 

[2008yukonxlslt]

I was just dealing with a similar problem yesterday on my 08 Yukon.
If you jumper pin 87 to 30 this will put power to the compressor. You can do this key on Eng off and you will hear an audible click from the compressor, that tells you the power is making it to the clutch. If you do this eng running, the compressor will engage if it is working properly. The schematics attached are for the 08 so might not be same as yours but I’m betting, similar or same.

 

[OR VietVet]

Along the same lines of what @2008yukonxlslt said, just yesterday my neighbor was showing his 97 GMC K1500 to a prospective buyer and he asked me about no a/c. He said another tech, that had moved out of town, had just last year replaced condenser and accumulator and orifice and now was not working when the buyer was there. He was very surprised to say the least. I went to the low pressure switch at the accumulator and jumped the connector with still no a/c clutch engagement. I then popped off a schrader valve cap and tapped the valve and it had refrigerant in it. I then went to the under hood fuse/relay box and sure enough there was a relay labeled for a/c. The relay next to it was a match. I swapped them with no luck but did notice how sloppy the a/c relay was when I removed it. The male female connection was very loose. I jiggled the relay and nothing. I then twisted the relay and the a/c clutch engaged and in a few seconds you could feel cool air and after a bit it was cold in the truck cab. The truck owner, seller or buyer has not been determined yet, is going to pay me to fix the loose female connection in the fuse/relay box.

 

[2008yukonxlslt]

Awesome find!!! Luv it when it’s that easy. Our OP sounds like he is having a bigger issue but always start with the basics to see what you got.

 

[glmoore0001]

Yes, I swapped the AC relay with the horn relay and it did not solve the problem.

 

[2008yukonxlslt]

That’s a good start but swapping the relay only proves it is prob not the relay, did you jumper the pins to put voltage to the clutch as I suggested?