2005 Tahoe Daily [Update 06/25/20 - leveled?]
- Thread starter Galandorian
- Start date
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Galandorian
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so since I put in the new 10aH Lithium and disconnected my front battery, every day before work I would have to jump the vehicle, and then I could drive to work seeing 14.5V constant, and I could start the vehicle after work no issue
but on the way home from work, I'd see a max charging voltage of 13V no matter what, and I could never start the truck again once I turned it off
did some research, and it looks like in 2005 Chevy implemented an EPM system that has variable voltage to "increase gas mileage" lmao
evidently having your headlights on, or being in tow haul mode keeps the voltage charging where it should be
so that explains that in the morning, when I had headlights on, I had good voltage
I'm getting a dual alternator setup next week so I can avoid this entirely, but it's good to know, and for the weekend I'll be driving around with my headlights on no matter what
but on the way home from work, I'd see a max charging voltage of 13V no matter what, and I could never start the truck again once I turned it off
did some research, and it looks like in 2005 Chevy implemented an EPM system that has variable voltage to "increase gas mileage" lmao
evidently having your headlights on, or being in tow haul mode keeps the voltage charging where it should be
so that explains that in the morning, when I had headlights on, I had good voltage
I'm getting a dual alternator setup next week so I can avoid this entirely, but it's good to know, and for the weekend I'll be driving around with my headlights on no matter what
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Galandorian
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after waiting what felt like forever, I finally got my alt bracket and alternator in
BlueGhost (eBay) $200 dual alt bracket
Brand X (Jonathan Patrick) 270a alternator
I had the Spectre 9900 CAI lying around brand new in the box from another vehicle, so I threw it in there thinking it would make running the belt and everything easier.
turns out that in these vehicles with the electric fans, it really isn't that big of a difference, but hey, at least it looks cool I guess
BlueGhost (eBay) $200 dual alt bracket
Brand X (Jonathan Patrick) 270a alternator
I had the Spectre 9900 CAI lying around brand new in the box from another vehicle, so I threw it in there thinking it would make running the belt and everything easier.
turns out that in these vehicles with the electric fans, it really isn't that big of a difference, but hey, at least it looks cool I guess
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Wow, very nice. So you’re capable of what.. 420 amps...?? [emoji15]
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Galandorian
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they're separate systems, so the stock alt is just running the car, and the 2nd alt is just running the sound system
should be a little over 300a when hot and at full load, and like 230ish idle I believe
Ok gotcha. Plenty of power anyway!.. I think... that’s a lot of sound waves. [emoji16][emoji106][emoji631]
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Galandorian
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was driving to work today and only charging at 13.5V... again! I was like WTF man! about ready to throw my system out the window
came home and got to thinking, the dual alternator bracket is painted, and probably wasn't grounding properly
sure enough
14.5V grounded to the outer alt
15.5v grounded to the inner alt
so just needed to add a handy little 2/0 ground run
and taaadaahhhh
came home and got to thinking, the dual alternator bracket is painted, and probably wasn't grounding properly
sure enough
14.5V grounded to the outer alt
15.5v grounded to the inner alt
so just needed to add a handy little 2/0 ground run
and taaadaahhhh
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Galandorian
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in case anyone is wondering how I'm charging higher than the normal 14.4v - 14.8v that our alternators are generally regulated for, I added a Chanzon 1N4004 Rectified Diode to my alternator
I should've taken some pictures, but was just trying to get it playing and forgot to do so
here's a short style explanation and some pics from Hunter Martin
order yourself some diodes:
and then on these alternators you want the diode in line with the S plug
add the diode in line as seen:
grey line towards the alternator plug
shrink wrap it, add a zip tie for rigidity, etc, and you're ready to roll
I should've taken some pictures, but was just trying to get it playing and forgot to do so
here's a short style explanation and some pics from Hunter Martin
order yourself some diodes:
and then on these alternators you want the diode in line with the S plug
add the diode in line as seen:
grey line towards the alternator plug
shrink wrap it, add a zip tie for rigidity, etc, and you're ready to roll
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Galandorian
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first my cheap ebay housing started having issues
then my cheap ebay hatch handle broke
ended up purchasing parts to build new retrofits for the lights, and should hopefully have ebay sending me a new hatch handle to put on
then my cheap ebay hatch handle broke
ended up purchasing parts to build new retrofits for the lights, and should hopefully have ebay sending me a new hatch handle to put on
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Have to, have to run a thin bead of silicone on any aftermarket lights. Stops any water from getting in.
You’ll just keep breaking those China handles, might as well get the OEM one and be done with it. My bud who owns a body shop won’t even paint those cheap ones if I paid him to do it.
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Galandorian
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do they make an OEM black one?
I don't believe I've ever seen a black rear hatch handle that wasn't this cheap plastic
OEM p/n is 19299935 paint to match. If you want it black, I believe it comes smooth black or you can paint it yourself. Most people paint them body color. I know when I bought new PTM handles for my 08 Silverado they came smooth black. I had them painted to match. The cheap aftermarket ones I took off were black textured which are a PIA to paint and so aren’t meant to paint. They aren’t cheap but if you don’t want to keep replacing them it’s the only way to go.
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Galandorian
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hmm not really a fan of smooth / gloss looks on anything lol
I think I'll just keep getting these cheap ones. I've only had 2 fail in 6 years of using them, and I spoke to the eBay seller and they said they'll keep sending them to me for free when needed
in other news, I finally got an SPL meter again, and broke a new PR for myself - 153.1 on the glass
still a lot to gain too once I sort some things out
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Galandorian
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I also got all of my retrofit stuff in today, so I started that project
Amazon Depo projectors
CB&D Brackets
MoriMoto Mini H1 7.0 bixenon HID
38w nhk ballasts
XB 4500k bulbs
if the Yukon retrofits were 6/10 difficulty, these chevy ones were probably 8/10 difficulty
didn't even get around to testing them yet, because its downpouring out and I don't have garage space to pull the truck in, but I already know I'm going to have to rebuild these.
the guides I read made it seem so easy, but there were a lot of intricacies that were not mentioned
for one, the quality on these Depo headlights was much better than the eBay ones, including the fact that no matter how long I heated them, the damn silicone would not come off. ended up breaking off a bunch of the plastic housing in frustration
hopefully tomorrow I'll some output shots of juts how bad these are
Amazon Depo projectors
CB&D Brackets
MoriMoto Mini H1 7.0 bixenon HID
38w nhk ballasts
XB 4500k bulbs
if the Yukon retrofits were 6/10 difficulty, these chevy ones were probably 8/10 difficulty
didn't even get around to testing them yet, because its downpouring out and I don't have garage space to pull the truck in, but I already know I'm going to have to rebuild these.
the guides I read made it seem so easy, but there were a lot of intricacies that were not mentioned
for one, the quality on these Depo headlights was much better than the eBay ones, including the fact that no matter how long I heated them, the damn silicone would not come off. ended up breaking off a bunch of the plastic housing in frustration
hopefully tomorrow I'll some output shots of juts how bad these are
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It’s not silicone, it’s called permaseal. Look it up. Were you trying to open them up or just remove projectors? I’m not familiar with the Depo for Tahoe’s so idk if you can just replace the projectors like my Denali’s. Mine were permaseal and just removing the projectors was super hard. I’d like to open them up to paint them but I’m pretty sure I’d destroy them.
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Galandorian
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I thought the Denali ones were permaseal, and this was much different stuff than those were.
I had no issues removing the Denali projectors, but a TON of difficulty with these Chevy ones.
I was strictly trying to remove the projectors from the rear, not open the headlights.
I think you just encountered your first real permaseal. Here's what mine looked like after a LOT of effort to get them off. Lots of heat and cutting and prying, about 2 hours for each projector.
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Galandorian
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Here's my Denali thread:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/update-04-07-2006-yukon-denali-winter-beater-sold.106950/
and here's the retrofit video I made:
whatever was on the Denali was not what was on these Chevy ones, and the Denali stuff was much easier
I was able to do those retrofits in about 30 minutes each
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