2003 chevy tahoe z71 edition (new motor)

[Tonyrodz]

I appreciate it very much, he made sense so I'm gonna put the money in it's own savings account and add 150-200$ a month to it and when I need it there it will be!!! Thanks for all the support here i lurked around awhile before I posted lol!

I added to the post, as I felt I needed to, as I thought about it a little more. Just a personal feeling, that's all.

 

[Bowtie601]

Hmmm, when you think about it, he does make sense. I guess that's a plan. But make sure you hold onto the cash for that eventuality. Def keep us posted. I hope it works out in your favor. Please just keep in mind, the guy who you bought the truck from, in good faith that you don't really see much today, offered you the money to pay for the motor that you may or may not need because he trusted you and is trying to do the right thing. Just sayin.....

Oh no doubt, I got a writeup from a mechanic shop stating there diagnosis and what it would cost me. Versus what a motor would cost and such. Mechanic shop told me buy a motor lol so they wrote up a diagnosis. I just think my dads buddy is saying save some labor money since he's paying for the motor and ride what I got out until then. I definetky thought about that and I got quite a religious side that wouldn't let me do this unless it was legit lol. Guys a standup gentleman. Not many left that wouldn't run from these problems.

 

[Bowtie601]

I added to the post, as I felt I needed to, as I thought about it a little more. Just a personal feeling, that's all.

Oh yes sir and I just seen it and replied to ya.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Oh yes sir and I just seen it and replied to ya.

 

[rockola1971]

Looks like you have a need for an engine and considering the miles you drive a day you have only two real logical options.
(1)Get the new engine for $1812 and $600 labor to install. Possibly have extra costs like new water pump, exhaust manifold bolts, etc. So $2412 plus. 3yr warranty.

or
(2) Get a salvage yard engine. They are everywhere and can be had for around a grand with just over 100k on them. http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search....769825&userUID=0&userBroker=&iKey=&userPage=7
So $1000 plus $600 labor plus any extras. So $1600 plus. 90day warranty plus.

Me personally id just throw a new one in it for $2412 plus. So its a matter of how much you want to spend out of your finances.

 

[rockola1971]

Okay talked to a lifelong friend of the family he owns his own shop of 20 years has worked on all our race car stuff and auto stuff for years he told me take the money the guy has given me for a motor and save it until I need it. He said we will find the oil leak this weekend and ride this motor out another 50-100k miles whatever it turns because he doesn't think I have any motor issues with no lights on dash and no error codes thrown. Also said get 3000 miles on this oil change then let him check that oil himself.

LMAO your PCM has no idea if your crank is chewing into your mains and also doesnt have the slightest clue that your rear main seal is leaking oil (not atleast until the oil pressure drops low enough to throw a code). Heck the PCM wont even throw a code that states your fuel pump is bad when it just up and dies. The PCM is smart but it is not human. They can be made this smart but the manufacturer chooses not go that far.

 

[David Paul]

A couple of thoughts:
Family vehicle=need for reliable vehicle
Sounds like a new engine is in order and the previous owner is willing to pay for it now, not place the $$$ in a savings account. If I were him/her I wouldn't appreciate that at all.
$600 r&r of the engine is a steal of a deal and just from what you said, I like the guy and I've never meet him....lol.
Doing it now is at your convince, not 150 miles away
Add in the fact that you have 3year/100,000 mile warranty on a clean vehicle and it's a no brainer to me......

 

[Bowtie601]

A couple of thoughts:
Family vehicle=need for reliable vehicle
Sounds like a new engine is in order and the previous owner is willing to pay for it now, not place the $$$ in a savings account. If I were him/her I wouldn't appreciate that at all.
$600 r&r of the engine is a steal of a deal and just from what you said, I like the guy and I've never meet him....lol.
Doing it now is at your convince, not 150 miles away
Add in the fact that you have 3year/100,000 mile warranty on a clean vehicle and it's a no brainer to me......

Oh no previous owner knows we have talked thoroughly decided today to put the money away and within a month write the check for the motor/labor and be done. Plus any extras of course. Yeah it's a no Brainer to go new motor. Definetly my wife and son in it more then me and more me on Saturdays and Sundays. Oh yeah the guy I bought it from is a STAND UP guy. They don't come any better then that. My side work consists of some personal training and lawn mower work I told him if he EVER needed help in any direction it's free just give me the call. And my mechanic is also a heck of a standup guy which that labor so cheap because he gets his parts for his business direct for my dad. Dad helps him when he can there for he helps us when he can. Thanks for your time and input sir.

 

[Bowtie601]

LMAO your PCM has no idea if your crank is chewing into your mains and also doesnt have the slightest clue that your rear main seal is leaking oil (not atleast until the oil pressure drops low enough to throw a code). Heck the PCM wont even throw a code that states your fuel pump is bad when it just up and dies. The PCM is smart but it is not human. They can be made this smart but the manufacturer chooses not go that far.

Hey I'm no vehicle mechanic I can just say if this said gentleman has ever told me anything on a vehicle I can take it to the bank. Built several dirt track motors for my dad, but again I guess that's why he wants to hook it up and put it on a rack and really take a good look. I believe you absolutely. Of course the manufacturer isn't gonna let the pcm work to its full capacity haha.

 

[Bowtie601]

Looks like you have a need for an engine and considering the miles you drive a day you have only two real logical options.
(1)Get the new engine for $1812 and $600 labor to install. Possibly have extra costs like new water pump, exhaust manifold bolts, etc. So $2412 plus. 3yr warranty.

or
(2) Get a salvage yard engine. They are everywhere and can be had for around a grand with just over 100k on them. http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=All+States&userIMS=&userInterchange=BFB@N&userSide=&userDate=2005&userDate2=2005&dbModel=15.27.1.1&userModel=Chevy Tahoe&dbPart=300.1&userPart=Engine&sessionID=200000000000000001036837524&userPreference=miles&userIntSelect=1769825&userUID=0&userBroker=&iKey=&userPage=7
So $1000 plus $600 labor plus any extras. So $1600 plus. 90day warranty plus.

Me personally id just throw a new one in it for $2412 plus. So its a matter of how much you want to spend out of your finances.

agreed! New motor plus 3 yr warranty on a 14 year old vehicle. Not a bad deal by any means.

 

[Bowtie601]

Got a written diagnosis from the shop also, just because I wanted it all documented and to be done right.

 

[Bowtie601]

Thoughts on the air raid jr? By most here I see good things. I was looking at kn or even volant that comes with a new air box. But I'm sure the air raid jr with stock air box would do well. Stock box isn't so restrictive as the stock system to the throttle body.

 

[Countryboy07]

Thoughts on the air raid jr? By most here I see good things. I was looking at kn or even volant that comes with a new air box. But I'm sure the air raid jr with stock air box would do well. Stock box isn't so restrictive as the stock system to the throttle body.

I bought an Airaid MIT used off here and then bought a new filter. So I have the JR kit now and love it. Much better than the factory intake tube and filter.

 

[bottomline2000]

I doubt the crank is the issue. I and plenty of guys on here have had rear main seals go bad. Never seen premature crank wear be an issue. It's rubber and hardens over time letting oil blow by. Replace ur seal and enjoy another 100K out ur motor.

I just saw the part about the shavings..I would do like the mechanic said and change the oil, run it 3k miles and check the drain plug. If it's full of shavings THEN I would yank the motor. Hell I was quoted $2k just to r&r my motor not including the price of the motor. U got a deal waiting.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[fresh350]

I'd say do the motor now... you have everything pretty much set up already and why wait until you are on the highway or far from home for it to possibly blow up on you. It's already been said that there is an excess of metal shavings and possible excessive crank end play. For me it would be a no brainer to just get it out of the way and know everything is good. Also... as much as you say that you can save the money for a period of time (which you possibly could not knowing your finances) but we all know that life happens and that money could easily be used for something else down the road. Get it done and enjoy the truck rather than waiting for it to grenade on you. Just my opinion