2003 2WD Yukon Daily Build

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ddwelch

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So this is the build thread for my most recent daily driver. I have been wanting something "Ls" based for quite a while. I have been in the *** car scene forever now, and this is my fist American and v8 platform. I pipe dreamed about an Ls swapped *** car, but could not justify the funds needed and life.

2003 GMC Yukon SLT is my new daily. 2WD with 208k when I picked it up. It needed a hand full of maintenance when I first got it, which I will update here for my records keeping.

Currently at 225k miles.

When I first picked up:
0Rft79H.jpg


Another baseline:
9GP8Pqa.jpg


New wheels, trying to mimic baseline pic:
U7I0fS5.jpg


Random pictures with new wheels:
pejBc1X.jpg


hngScDU.jpg


Took the moldings and badge off passenger side to see if I liked it:
3andiOC.jpg


wEruANG.jpg



I liked the no molding look as more time went on. I still need to do the driver side.

Maintenance done so far:
Early 2020: intake mani gaskets, knock sensors, center valley cover gasket, EGR solenoid, and all 4 o2 sensors.
Mid 2020: KYB monomax shocks all around, pads/rotors all around.

Plans: Continue with maintenance so it drives even better than it does now. Along with getting it to drive better in a sense of feel, I would like to lower it most likely with a 2/4 drop. Been on the fence wanting to wrap it, but do not want any more attention drawn. Back up cam, new head unit, and better beats is always a plus. So we shall see.

I have loads of questions, but wont ask until I get to the point of actually making an action that pertains to the areas of interest regarding the questions.
 

poppajorgio

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I have a 2003 yukon xl and I am pretty much in the same process. I detailed the crap out of it, changed the lenses on all around with stock, and also took the molding off. I used to want replacement molding but I think it looks great without it.

I need to get those wheels! They look great on it and I bet when its lowered it will look great. Can you tell me what vehicle they came off? I have been trying to look it up....
 

adventurenali92

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I have a 2003 yukon xl and I am pretty much in the same process. I detailed the crap out of it, changed the lenses on all around with stock, and also took the molding off. I used to want replacement molding but I think it looks great without it.

I need to get those wheels! They look great on it and I bet when its lowered it will look great. Can you tell me what vehicle they came off? I have been trying to look it up....
Those are 2015-2020 Yukon and Sierra Denali factory wheels. I have them on my 2006 in the same finish. They also came in chrome and polished alloy finishes. It’s a good looking wheel and easy to keep clean because of the wider open spaces on the wheel.
 
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ddwelch

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Looking forward to your build thread. What a difference wheels make. Color looks great.

Thanks man. It will be a slow one as most of my money goes into *** cars. I totally agree about the wheel choice, and super wish the color was fresh because I dig it as well.

I have a 2003 yukon xl and I am pretty much in the same process. I detailed the crap out of it, changed the lenses on all around with stock, and also took the molding off. I used to want replacement molding but I think it looks great without it.

I need to get those wheels! They look great on it and I bet when its lowered it will look great. Can you tell me what vehicle they came off? I have been trying to look it up....

2015+ Yukon Wheels. There is a Denali edition also.

Only 225k? Pre-preliminary break in, done.
Exactlyyyy lol. 225k is high for my preference, but runs like a champ! Just leaks oil.

Those are 2015-2020 Yukon and Sierra Denali factory wheels. I have them on my 2006 in the same finish. They also came in chrome and polished alloy finishes. It’s a good looking wheel and easy to keep clean because of the wider open spaces on the wheel.

What this guy said^

@ddwelch good looking truck! Welcome to the forum!
Thanks dude!


Late post. A few months back my cluster was intermittently going out. Then it completely died. Drove bling for almost 2 months before buying a cluster from digitaldashsolutions/fixmygauges.com. I LOVE the way this came out. At first I was a little overwhelmed by the blue at night, but the more I drove it the more i liked it.
F2DICJt.jpg


zBaslBx.jpg


Filler pics of my *** cars.
1997 Integra Type R:
3IOOqpQ.jpg


1992 Miata 1.8/6speed swapped:
MnmVrCF.jpg
 

adventurenali92

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Looks like an Escalade style cluster? Looks good mate! Love the blue LEDs! I have blue in Escalade cluster as well and I love it. Though I went with a white gauge face.
 
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ddwelch

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Looks like an Escalade style cluster? Looks good mate! Love the blue LEDs! I have blue in Escalade cluster as well and I love it. Though I went with a white gauge face.

Yes, Escalade style upgrade with tranny temp. I was torn between black or white faces, but went with black face white needles obviously.
 

Fless

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So this is the build thread for my most recent daily driver. I have been wanting something "Ls" based for quite a while. I have been in the *** car scene forever now, and this is my fist American and v8 platform. I pipe dreamed about an Ls swapped *** car, but could not justify the funds needed and life.

2003 GMC Yukon SLT is my new daily. 2WD with 208k when I picked it up. It needed a hand full of maintenance when I first got it, which I will update here for my records keeping.

Currently at 225k miles.

When I first picked up:
0Rft79H.jpg


Another baseline:
9GP8Pqa.jpg


New wheels, trying to mimic baseline pic:
U7I0fS5.jpg


Random pictures with new wheels:
pejBc1X.jpg


hngScDU.jpg


Took the moldings and badge off passenger side to see if I liked it:
3andiOC.jpg


wEruANG.jpg



I liked the no molding look as more time went on. I still need to do the driver side.

Maintenance done so far:
Early 2020: intake mani gaskets, knock sensors, center valley cover gasket, EGR solenoid, and all 4 o2 sensors.
Mid 2020: KYB monomax shocks all around, pads/rotors all around.

Plans: Continue with maintenance so it drives even better than it does now. Along with getting it to drive better in a sense of feel, I would like to lower it most likely with a 2/4 drop. Been on the fence wanting to wrap it, but do not want any more attention drawn. Back up cam, new head unit, and better beats is always a plus. So we shall see.

I have loads of questions, but wont ask until I get to the point of actually making an action that pertains to the areas of interest regarding the questions.


If you have the Premium Smooth Ride option (ZW7) you'll need to get stiffer springs for the rears if you replace Nivomat shocks (if they're still on it).
 

Bear77

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If you have the Premium Smooth Ride option (ZW7) you'll need to get stiffer springs for the rears if you replace Nivomat shocks (if they're still on it).
Stiffer springs? I probably missed out on the info for this. Part number please, as I think this is what I need to get for mines!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Fless

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@Bear77 If you do have the Nivomats on the rear and change them to standard shocks, Bilstein indicates that their companion spring be installed at the same time:

Capture.JPG


A lot of guys just pick up a set of GM Z71 springs, instead. Not sure if the spring rates are the same for these replacements, but I suspect they're similar.
 

Bear77

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Thank you for that info...I did change mine out and was wondering why it seemed to feel like it was bottoming out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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ddwelch

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If you have the Premium Smooth Ride option (ZW7) you'll need to get stiffer springs for the rears if you replace Nivomat shocks (if they're still on it).

I pulled off some trashed Gabriels. What indicators would be for the Premium Smooth Ride option?
 

Fless

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I'm not sure how to tell if the springs have been changed; if they still have ID numbers on them those could be searched. If your Yukon shipped with the Premium Smooth Ride, the RPO code ZW7 will be one of the (RPO) codes on the inside of the glovebox lid.
 
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ddwelch

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No real updates to provide. Just maintenance has happened.
Jan 2021:
Front upper and lower control arms with ball joints and bushings
Flipped steering bar around so it is correct orientation
New oil pressure unit with harness (no more leaks!!!)

But now my AC compressor is needing to be replaced.

The new front end stuff made it ride sooooo crispy. I would guess it is very close to how it felt rolling off the lot in 2003.
 

Tonyrodz

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No real updates to provide. Just maintenance has happened.
Jan 2021:
Front upper and lower control arms with ball joints and bushings
Flipped steering bar around so it is correct orientation
New oil pressure unit with harness (no more leaks!!!)

But now my AC compressor is needing to be replaced.

The new front end stuff made it ride sooooo crispy. I would guess it is very close to how it felt rolling off the lot in 2003.
What do you mean you flipped the steering bar for better orientation? Pics?
 
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ddwelch

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What do you mean you flipped the steering bar for better orientation? Pics?

Sorry for the delay. I had seen your post, but have been super busy to get under it and snap a pic.

cdEmg2p.jpg


The orientation of the steering bar needs to have the bends you see leading to the tie rod going towards the front of the truck. Someone prior to me had it installed opposite/backwards with the bends facing the rear. This will bolt up and will align in the wrong orientation, however it affects the steering and would cause the wheels to camber out near full lock. I would experience a sliding effect while turning in reverse, and the turning radius while going forward was significantly larger. My tires showed major camber wear on the outter corners while driving with it backwards. Flipped the bar around, got a new alignment and rotated the tires. The tires after rotation that were fresh from the rear show zero wear like the fronts had done, my turning radius got tighter, and no more sliding sensation while turning in reverse.

No updates on the Yukon. I got the opportunity to buy a 89 Toyota 4x4 from my friends parents after she passed away. So my money got allocated to that.

However, I need to do more maintenance as my main drive belt is getting shredded and about to let go. My AC compressor makes noise when engaged so I am thinking the clutch is seizing, Yay. I know it wont be anything spectacular, but I will take pics and upload for documentation purposes when I do those things.
 

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