2002 Torsion Bar Reindexing

[Echo]

I have a 2002 Tahoe with a lift on it, it's a rough country kit, and I'm experiencing issues with my control arms bottoming out despite having my torsion bars almost maxxed out. I've looked into reindexing them, but it seems like both ends of the torsion bar use a hex head rather than a spline at one end, leaving me to wonder if it's even an option. I've heard of people swapping them from either side to get then tension back in them, but I've also heard that because the bars are twisted and forged specifically for the left and right sides, that swapping them has the potential to cause catastrophic failure. I've considered the possibility of buying new bars and keys, or simply converting to coil overs and doing a torsion bar delete, but I want to see what my other (less expensive) options are first.

If anyone has any tips, ideas or suggestions, I would be very grateful.

EDIT: After doing further research I've come to find you can't actually reindex the bars themselves like most vehicles, you have to get aftermarket torsion keys that are reindexed. Which leads me to another question, how do I know what key's I already have, and what keys I should get to preload my bars?

2nd EDIT: More research has resolved my previous inquiries. I found my specific lift kit (6 inch) from RC and it doesn't replace the torsion bars or the keys, so they remain stock. My one final question is, what aftermarket keys would be recommended for preloading my bars and getting my front end off of my bump stops?

 

[Fless]

The front "bump" stops are an integral part of the suspension in these rigs. The lower control arms should be in contact with the jounce bumpers (bump stops).

Rebuiding my front end - upgrades?

Check the bushings on the ds upper control arm. They tend to deteriorate over time. Also--imo it's just easier doing the complete control arms instead of just doing ball joints. New arms come with all those parts new. That's what I did. While you're there get the new hardware/bolts and adjusters...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[Echo]

The front "bump" stops are an integral part of the suspension in these rigs. The lower control arms should be in contact with the jounce bumpers (bump stops).

Rebuiding my front end - upgrades?

Check the bushings on the ds upper control arm. They tend to deteriorate over time. Also--imo it's just easier doing the complete control arms instead of just doing ball joints. New arms come with all those parts new. That's what I did. While you're there get the new hardware/bolts and adjusters...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

This is true, but they should not be getting completely crushed and providing a very rough ride when my torsion keys are maxxed out. The stock bump stop should be barely touching the control arm, Timbrens on the other hand, should have at least a quarter inch of clearance to the control arm.

 

[Scott in AZ]

The front "bump" stops are an integral part of the suspension in these rigs. The lower control arms should be in contact with the jounce bumpers (bump stops).

Rebuiding my front end - upgrades?

Check the bushings on the ds upper control arm. They tend to deteriorate over time. Also--imo it's just easier doing the complete control arms instead of just doing ball joints. New arms come with all those parts new. That's what I did. While you're there get the new hardware/bolts and adjusters...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Sage counsel. I was wondering about that after installing. Thanks.

 

[iamdub]

I have a 2002 Tahoe with a lift on it, it's a rough country kit, and I'm experiencing issues with my control arms bottoming out despite having my torsion bars almost maxxed out. I've looked into reindexing them, but it seems like both ends of the torsion bar use a hex head rather than a spline at one end, leaving me to wonder if it's even an option. I've heard of people swapping them from either side to get then tension back in them, but I've also heard that because the bars are twisted and forged specifically for the left and right sides, that swapping them has the potential to cause catastrophic failure. I've considered the possibility of buying new bars and keys, or simply converting to coil overs and doing a torsion bar delete, but I want to see what my other (less expensive) options are first.

If anyone has any tips, ideas or suggestions, I would be very grateful.

EDIT: After doing further research I've come to find you can't actually reindex the bars themselves like most vehicles, you have to get aftermarket torsion keys that are reindexed. Which leads me to another question, how do I know what key's I already have, and what keys I should get to preload my bars?

2nd EDIT: More research has resolved my previous inquiries. I found my specific lift kit (6 inch) from RC and it doesn't replace the torsion bars or the keys, so they remain stock. My one final question is, what aftermarket keys would be recommended for preloading my bars and getting my front end off of my bump stops?

Sounds like the bars were installed one flat off. If the keys are de-cranked all the way and you raised the front end, they should still be twisted slightly- 1/6 of a turn from zero torsion.

 

[Echo]

Actually managed to resolve this issue through some creative means. I built a kind of passive mini-coil shock tube sleeve out of 2 inch pipe and old boat trailer springs that works in tandem with the torsion bar suspension. My ride has never been this smooth, and it's doing an amazing job of preserving my front shocks.

 

[iamdub]

Actually managed to resolve this issue through some creative means. I built a kind of passive mini-coil shock tube sleeve out of 2 inch pipe and old boat trailer springs that works in tandem with the torsion bar suspension. My ride has never been this smooth, and it's doing an amazing job of preserving my front shocks.

Interesting! Come on with the pics!

 

[Echo]

Here it is. Drivers side. 2 in threaded plumbing pipe sleeved over bilstein 5100 monotube shocks. Modified a 2 in threaded pipe flange to accommodate coil springs salvaged from an old boat trailer that was used to build a custom front bumper. Needs some paint. I know it looks like its touching the bumpstop plate, but I assure you, there is plenty of clearance.

 

[iamdub]

View attachment 404994
Here it is. Drivers side. 2 in threaded plumbing pipe sleeved over bilstein 5100 monotube shocks. Modified a 2 in threaded pipe flange to accommodate coil springs salvaged from an old boat trailer that was used to build a custom front bumper. Needs some paint. I know it looks like its touching the bumpstop plate, but I assure you, there is plenty of clearance.

Cool!

I was wondering why all this looks like it has been in place for a while, then saw you originated this thread over a year ago. :faceplam: