2" front lift on Z71 w/ keys only?

[Matthew Jeschke]

I bought a 2001 Z71 tahoe. There's no end to the repairs it needs, I think was ran hard for it's 220k miles. The issue is driver side shock. It ripped off while going (slowly be it) on a mountain pass / forest road.

I have always questioned the way the previous owner did the lift. He lifted the front of the truck 2 inches to make even with the rear. Not sure that is a good idea to lift at all, but I guess it looks nice?

All he did when he lifted it was put the keys on the torsion bar. He didn't extend the shock mounts or replace the shocks with longer travel ones. I think this is the underlying issue. The bounce took the shock to it's limit and ripped the upper retainer off along with the bushings. Then the shock was beat up rattling around in the wheel well. Suffice to say the least, the shock is trashed, but I think I can do without it for a while.

Curious should I remove these lift keys. He gave me the originals torsion keys. I'm assuming will be nothing but problematic unless rest of suspension is adjusted to accommodate the lift. I also see that the tie rods & axles for the front are at harsher angles and wondering if that will cause issue with them.

Thanks!

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I bought a 2001 Z71 tahoe. There's no end to the repairs it needs, I think was ran hard for it's 220k miles. The issue is driver side shock. It ripped off while going (slowly be it) on a mountain pass / forest road.

I have always questioned the way the previous owner did the lift. He lifted the front of the truck 2 inches to make even with the rear. Not sure that is a good idea to lift at all, but I guess it looks nice?

All he did when he lifted it was put the keys on the torsion bar. He didn't extend the shock mounts or replace the shocks with longer travel ones. I think this is the underlying issue. The bounce took the shock to it's limit and ripped the upper retainer off along with the bushings. Then the shock was beat up rattling around in the wheel well. Suffice to say the least, the shock is trashed, but I think I can do without it for a while.

Curious should I remove these lift keys. He gave me the originals torsion keys. I'm assuming will be nothing but problematic unless rest of suspension is adjusted to accommodate the lift. I also see that the tie rods & axles for the front are at harsher angles and wondering if that will cause issue with them.

Thanks!

Sounds to me like you're just dealing with worn out parts. Leveling the front with just keys is common practice and shouldn't result in any Ill effects. Now, all trucks geometries are a little different, so can you post a pic of your angles? You can't go bananas, but 2" to just level the front should be fine.

 

[Chubbs]

Leave the torsion bar keys as is. Install a set of longer shocks (bilstein adjustables) or 2" shock extensions with a $50 set of Monroes standard length

OR, replace with standard shocks and the torsion bar keys can be relaxed by loosening the adjustment bolts a few turns.

Shocks are cheap, and highly essential. No need to do without. Remove & replace of the shocks will take about an hour total for both sides. This is an easy fix.

If you do decide to go with standard length shocks and
1) lower the front aftermarket keys
2) replace the a/m TB keys with the originals
a wheel alignment will be necessary, so you have that to take in account.

You would also need a couple of goods jacks and/or stands. A GM torsion-bar clamp

You have options here, this is all within your control. Inspect the rear springs & shocks. Look for a spacer underneath the springs. Crawl underneath and look over the driveline for major leaks or any other damage that may need immediate attention. Posting pictures will aid others in their suggestions & opinions.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Thanks Chubbs: I got the wrecked shock off. Only took a few minutes was very simple. Is there a shock that can can accommodate the factory height and a 2" lift without any spacers? Curious if I decide to revert I don't have to hassle with anything other than the torsion key then.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Thanks Chubbs: I got the wrecked shock off. Only took a few minutes was very simple. Is there a shock that can can accommodate the factory height and a 2" lift without any spacers? Curious if I decide to revert I don't have to hassle with anything other than the torsion key then.

Bilstein 5100.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Bilstein 5100.

The beat up shock I pulled off is a 37178ST monroe shock. I am pretty sure not original equipment. When I looked at opposite side (the one that didn't fall off) I noticed something odd. The idiot who installed them put the top shock retainer upside down! Instead of cupping the bushing it cuts into it. My guess is they did the same on the other side that came apart.

I also noticed the shock was restricting travel. The shock bottoms out when I jack the truck up, meaning big bumps were jerking that retainer even harder through the bushing.

I went ahead and ordered the 5100 bilsteins I think bilstein was original equipment on the z71?

Thanks much for the help! I'm discovering all kinds of quirky things the former owners did to this poor truck But I got it for cheap more or less.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

The Bilstein shocks came in. Out of box appear to be exceptional quality, although not sure I like the boots they come with. The lifetime warranty is also reassuring.

However, the instruction show lots of diagrams for installing shock, bushings, and retainers into the top mount. Seems they show about every way conceivable to install the bushings in reference to a type code printed on the shock. I cannot find this type code anywhere on the old shock or the new one. Anyone have experience with this?

I installed them then discovered those silly diagrams. I installed the retainers cupping the bushings with the cup facing the shock braket on the frame. Made since to me, but these diagrams are throwing me for a curve. Here's a video showing my install:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xfwWLQya1N0gd40tVaDpyygwjOGcuFd4/view?usp=sharing

FYI ~ The old shocks top retainer was installed as a V going down into the bushing. I think this is why it failed... I believe the nut eventually cut through the retainer in that orientation. but bilstein instructions show this as a feasible orientation?

 

[CamReynolds]

The Bilstein shocks came in. Out of box appear to be exceptional quality, although not sure I like the boots they come with. The lifetime warranty is also reassuring.

However, the instruction show lots of diagrams for installing shock, bushings, and retainers into the top mount. Seems they show about every way conceivable to install the bushings in reference to a type code printed on the shock. I cannot find this type code anywhere on the old shock or the new one. Anyone have experience with this?

I installed them then discovered those silly diagrams. I installed the retainers cupping the bushings with the cup facing the shock braket on the frame. Made since to me, but these diagrams are throwing me for a curve. Here's a video showing my install:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xfwWLQya1N0gd40tVaDpyygwjOGcuFd4/view?usp=sharing

FYI ~ The old shocks top retainer was installed as a V going down into the bushing. I think this is why it failed... I believe the nut eventually cut through the retainer in that orientation. but bilstein instructions show this as a feasible orientation?

can we see your cv angles?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

can we see your cv angles?

Ahem.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I'd be happy to but this is a PITA to post pictures to. I'll post them when I have more time. Curious what does the CV angles have to do with the upper mount retainer orientation?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I'd be happy to but this is a PITA to post pictures to. I'll post them when I have more time. Curious what does the CV angles have to do with the upper mount retainer orientation?

All you do is click "upload a file" and select the pic....

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

All you do is click "upload a file" and select the pic....

Thanks... i was doing it wrong lol figured out the easy way.

 

[CamReynolds]

Thanks... i was doing it wrong lol figured out the easy way.

View attachment 191613

thats about how mine look. wouldnt go much higher

 

[CamReynolds]

These are my angles. Theyre pretty steep with the keys cranked 2 inches, but I beat it offroad and havent had a problem yet (knock on wood)

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Thanks... i am curious though... which way do the retainers go on thr upper shock mount?

 

[Chubbs]

will you post a picture of what you are referring? when I did the shocks there was a stud that goes through the top mount with bushings on either side, the bottom fits into the lower shock bushing bracket with the OEM bolt. The shocks should have come with the 2 upper bushings and a brand new nut, so I would have to see pics of what is going on with your setup. I didn't use Bilstein..

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

These are my angles. Theyre pretty steep with the keys cranked 2 inches, but I beat it offroad and havent had a problem yet (knock on wood) View attachment 191716

My background is in engineering, altho it's computer engineering. I did some work on vehicles for data analysis. We talked a lot about this sort of thing amongst the mechanical guys and I do have a bit of study in statics & dynamics. It's very bad lol The stresses I'm sure are well out of design spec. But 4 wheel drive isn't enguaged that much. It's where it would be at it's highest stress level. I'd never recommend doing this, unless angles are kept very close to factory ~ which would require a lot of structural changes to the car, not quite sure how you'd do it really. Unfortunately, the guy I bought the truck from already lifted the front. I'll probably eventually lower it back to spec.

 

[CamReynolds]

My background is in engineering, altho it's computer engineering. I did some work on vehicles for data analysis. We talked a lot about this sort of thing amongst the mechanical guys and I do have a bit of study in statics & dynamics. It's very bad lol The stresses I'm sure are well out of design spec. But 4 wheel drive isn't enguaged that much. It's where it would be at it's highest stress level. I'd never recommend doing this, unless angles are kept very close to factory ~ which would require a lot of structural changes to the car, not quite sure how you'd do it really. Unfortunately, the guy I bought the truck from already lifted the front. I'll probably eventually lower it back to spec.

There are so many guys on here with cranked keys though. You could always get a body lift.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Here is orientation i used to mount the shock... upper mount is in the middle.

I have also included the instructions which make no since. They reference a type number which they say is on the shock but none of the shocks have a type printed on them.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

There are so many guys on here with cranked keys though. You could always get a body lift.

I dont know what their over design limits were. Possible they designed the front to take a lots of abuse. Just i wouldnt use the keys had it bern my choice.