Fixing to give the fronts a whirl this weekend. Only gonna bump the front up an 1" or so, second groove on the self leveling shocks. Any advice, notes, etc...not much info or videos on the install. Done alot of shocks, struts, just never messed with coil springs that much. I have the coil spring compressor tool and plan on doing it myself. Did the backs last weekend, was fairly straight forward.
15 Z71 Bilstein Install Front
- Thread starter UFBeef
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cheyenne383
Far North Lurker
Take good pics, I'll be doing the same whenever my stock shocks give up... I haven't seen too many tutorials or anything. I've peeked underneath, it should be pretty straight forward.
I want to know how bad to messes with the camber too, I'm 110 miles from an alignment shop once I do mine.
I want to know how bad to messes with the camber too, I'm 110 miles from an alignment shop once I do mine.
01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
Pretty easy to use spring compressor to release tension on upper mount to shock. Remove from old strut. Set clip on 5100 then install spring seat and install spring with upper
olyelr
Full Access Member
I just got back from the alignment shop after putting the Suspension Max 1.5” leveling kit on my wifes Denali (so it should be comparable from a height standpoint). Caster and camber did not change from the leveling kit. But the toe was quite a ways off (tires were visibly towing in after I put the kit on). I dont even think there is an adjustment for caster on these front ends.
Kpwweb
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Be sure to take pics before you take apart everything. Especially of the upper spring seat. They are “clocked” and knowing where they were when it came apart will help in putting it back together—don’t ask how I know!
Be careful of the stabilizer end links. I had one stripped from GM.
Note which way the lower strut mounts (a flat bar with bolt holes) are slightly angled. It can save you much future grief.
Also, make certain all the clips are seated in the grooves-upper underneath the bump stop and lower on the shock body. You will be rather rudely surprised if the are not... “Dad, what was that rather load bang?” Hmmmm...
Lastly, get a rather long pry bar. For some reason my right side needs to be coaxed into position every time with some persuasion, and the springs are rather stout. You end up prying up on the strut and down on the a-arm from underneath while laying in the middle of a vehicle supported on jackstands. Eeek.
And it goes without saying, be safe! Those springs are strong and if allowed will do several laps around your lair at eye level before impacting something valuable!
Enjoy! It is really not that bad of a job, it can just be a LOT easier if you pay attention to the details.
Be careful of the stabilizer end links. I had one stripped from GM.
Note which way the lower strut mounts (a flat bar with bolt holes) are slightly angled. It can save you much future grief.
Also, make certain all the clips are seated in the grooves-upper underneath the bump stop and lower on the shock body. You will be rather rudely surprised if the are not... “Dad, what was that rather load bang?” Hmmmm...
Lastly, get a rather long pry bar. For some reason my right side needs to be coaxed into position every time with some persuasion, and the springs are rather stout. You end up prying up on the strut and down on the a-arm from underneath while laying in the middle of a vehicle supported on jackstands. Eeek.
And it goes without saying, be safe! Those springs are strong and if allowed will do several laps around your lair at eye level before impacting something valuable!
Enjoy! It is really not that bad of a job, it can just be a LOT easier if you pay attention to the details.
Kppweb,great advice, I'm gonna take pics. The only video I found on changing them said not to remove the sway bar links, just loosen? Daw some other vids on older trucks and they removed the entire thing.
I was messing with the shocks this am, one thing on the cclips used for ride heigth, I though you had to fully remove them, easier way is just pry the edge up, never removing the clip and work around the edge of the clip, you can just push it up to the next grove, no tools needed. Stole thay from the Tacoma forum.
I was messing with the shocks this am, one thing on the cclips used for ride heigth, I though you had to fully remove them, easier way is just pry the edge up, never removing the clip and work around the edge of the clip, you can just push it up to the next grove, no tools needed. Stole thay from the Tacoma forum.
So....got one side doNE after the rain. Advice above was spot on, know how everything came off, take pics and pay attention. Everything was pretty straight forward. Getting the bottom t mount back into place after replacing the shock and getting this bolted up top was a major PIA! I couldn't get a pry bar in the right orientation so I got another jack and slipped it into place. A little fine tuning and she was in there. Toughest part about the entire ordeal. Just looking before I came in, looks like it definitely needs an alignment. I only went up 1 notch, instructions state it's about .78". Sway bar end link is junk also, putting that on the list to be replaced.
So drivers side was ezpz, took about 2 minutes to get everything in place. Highly suggest a jack capable of getting high, made all the difference. 15mm is your friend, if you don't have an impact socket, get one. I'd suggest getting new sway bar links and switch them out while you are in there. My passengers were bad, drivers were alot better, think the are like $8, ez fix while you are in there. Spring compressors were a must. I highly suggest taking pics and documenting the orientation of everything, which way the spring sits, how the tbar orientates to the springs, etc. Will save a ton of headaches. There is a notch in the top shock mount, pay attention to where that sits. I kept a nut on the upper shock bolt that faced out for orientation.
One other thing, the upper shock mount is a pia, not sure how they expect you to get a torque wrench on it when you have to hold the very top with a wrench, or I just don't have the right tools. Regardless, got them as tight as I thought was close to the correct torque per Bilstein prior to installation on the Tahoe. After install, I had to go back in and re-tighten with everything installed, they were very loose once everything got situated, make sure to check.
I ended up having to impact mine on tighter in order to get them to tighten up.
Worked. Maybe not the correct method but it worked.
Worked. Maybe not the correct method but it worked.
Kpwweb
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I actually ended up double-nutting my upper mounts. The Bilstein nuts never fit right, so I got four nuts, torqued the bottom two and then used the upper two as a lock nut. Trust me, sitting in a parking lot 300 miles from home trying to tighten the upper strut bolts is no fun!
olyelr
Full Access Member
Why is there an issue with the upper strut nuts? Seems like once you tighten the nuts down, they would be tight, no?
Upper strut nut installs on threaded end of strut rod, when you start to get tight on it the rod will spin within the shock, not allowing it to get tight. Plus once the entire unit is installed and seethes out and the force of the coil spring takes the brunt of the weight of the vehicle, it pushes up again on the shock exposing more threads that require retightening. The very top of the rod is flat, I'm guessing so you can put a wrench on it to keep it from spinning and tighten the nut, but you can't put a normal torque wrench on it so you have to do your best.
I am looking to get 5100 all around done for both the front lift and the improved quality in dampening. I was wondering is there any reason to change the rear as well?
Will it do anything for me?
Are the issues discussed with ride quality and improvement just due to replacing the front?
Maybe I can save a bit by not doing the rear, anyone with experience with both vs front only can chime in?
thx!
I did both, mainly because it has 96k miles and it was ti
It will do something if your current shocks are shot. I think the Bilsteins are a significantly better shock than the stock stuff. I feel the ride is better, cornering and braking are all better with the Bilsteins than the wore out shocks on that was on ours. I'm a proponent of changing everything of similar specifications at the same time, wouldn't just do front brakes, I'd do all four, wouldn't just change 2 tires or 2 spark plugs, make sit easier to keep up with age/miles down the road knowing it was all done at once.
olyelr
Full Access Member
Do you have the factory air shocks in the back? If not, I would definitely get the new shocks, regardless of their age.
Nope all non air. Will get the rear then
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