'15 Tahoe LTZ - suspension - all four corners bad?

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bdbull

bdbull

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The afepower.com product looks similar to the Xineering; however, the afepower.com product looks to have a long cable between connectors. The Xineering product is simply a plug and play plastic clip with no cable. The cable would have to be stuffed up or zip-tied to keep it out of the way. There is not a lot of space at the top of the front strut assembly for these pieces, even as small as they are.

I have an email and a voicemail in to afepower for more information but have not heard back from them yet. One thing that I'm confused about is the Xineering kit has two components for each wheel, shock simulator and ride height sensor. However, the afepower kit only has one. I've been in touch with Will at Xineering already, so I shot him an email asking about the difference. At this point I believe I am between Xineering and afepower. And the only reason I'm even looking at the afepower is due to the difference in price between the two.
 
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BillyBeez

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I have a 2015 LTZ too. Same issues. I bought the “simulator” from xingeering and Monroe struts for the front off of Amazon over the weekend. Struts are here, waiting e simulator in the mail. Going to give it a go this weekend. Will let you know, I too will follow up in another weekend or two on the back shocks.
Just replaced front struts with Monroe’s and utilized the xineering. $230 for the struts, $260 for the xineering kit.
 

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I did the delete on our 14 LTZ and went with Bilstein 5100's. I also purchased the resistor package to eliminate warning lights and that works like a champ. However, when we start the truck we always get the message: Service Suspension in the little information bar below the speedo and tach. Not a big deal as we just hit the info button to clear it, but how do I eliminate it?
 
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Got the Xineering kit and Monroe parts in today. Won't be able to get to until the weekend though.

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Oh Kee Pah

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I did the delete on our 14 LTZ and went with Bilstein 5100's. I also purchased the resistor package to eliminate warning lights and that works like a champ. However, when we start the truck we always get the message: Service Suspension in the little information bar below the speedo and tach. Not a big deal as we just hit the info button to clear it, but how do I eliminate it?



This thread has been focused on the latest generation of Tahoes (2015+)

From all of my research, the 2014 model uses a different front strut assembly than the current generation and the electric bypass for the Magneride/Autoride delete is also different.
I HAVE read about the "Service Suspension" warning reappearing (as you pointed out you want to eliminate) on at least one thread in the forum.
I mentioned in an earlier post that Strutmasters has a 4-corner MRC delete kit with new coils and shocks. Stutmasters ALSO makes a delete kit for earlier model years. I would suggest checking out the following link. You may also want to contact Strutmasters directly as their product lines seem to OMIT the 2014 Tahoe model year.


Strutmasters.com:
2007-2013 GM Full Size SUV Suspension Warning Light Fix Module GC2M
https://www.strutmasters.com/produc...suv-suspension-warning-light-fix-module-gc2m/


2007-2013 Tahoe 4 Wheel Air Suspension Conversion Kit w/ Light Fix Module GC24FM
https://www.strutmasters.com/produc...nsion-conversion-kit-with-light-fix-module-2/

ANOTHER explanation; although I'm not entirely sure if it will apply to your 2014 LTZ, is what the Xineering team calls the "Ride Height Trim Procedure." This is a computer module that GM Dealers use to re-calibrate the suspension control module for any changes in ride height or ride height sensor -> resetting the "new" ride height position of the vehicle.
With my Xineering MRC delete circuits, I ran their Ride Height Trim module from my laptop using a cable they provided. EASY! I was able to redefine the ride height in my computer as well as set the new voltages going to the ride height sensor simulaters. FYI - the Xineering kit has 8 pieces; 2 @ each corner; 1 for ride height sensor simulator and 1 ride height sensor.

Xineering now has specific instructions and YouTube video on the "how to's" of their MRC delete circuits. They say that the Ride Height Trim Procedure should be done when installing the circuits to help ensure proper functioning, in particular the vehicle's computer "reading" the ride height simulator VOLTAGES properly.
 

Oh Kee Pah

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Got the Xineering kit and Monroe parts in today. Won't be able to get to until the weekend though.

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GREAT CHOICE!!!
Going off of my own experiences with the Xineering GM Shock Sims MRC delete sensors -> take some extra time and carefully read through their provided instructions and watch the installation YouTube videos. Also, a little wd40 or similiar lubricant may make unplugging the existing circuits a bit easier, careful not to damage the plastic locking clips.

INSTALL: http://shocksims.com/images/Kit_Install_Current.pdf

INSTALL VIDEO:

AIR Bypass Instructions: (if you install MRC delete sensors on the rear AIR suspension)
http://shocksims.com/images/ALC_Bypass_Guide.pdf


Ride Height Trim Procedure:

I had this procedure performed at a Chevy Dealer here in Maine approx. 100 miles after installation and paid $90. They did NOT provide me any proof of completion or any visual data regarding voltage readings. Working with Max @ Xineering, we determined that my front left ride height sensor was possibly damaged. He sent a new circuit, which I installed on my own, and I then ran the Xineering software on my laptop to read & clear the DTCs that had been thrown with the "Service Supension" warning on my dash. I was able to visually see my LIVE voltages going to all 4 corners and then ran the Ride Height Trim Procedure. It's been over 5,000 miles and I have not seen another "Service Suspension" message.

Xineering's website states "While the Ride Height Trim Procedure is recommended on the SUVs when bypassing the magneride. It MUST be performed on the Sierra Trucks. The suspension calibration of the Sierras is much more aggressive than the SUVs, without the trim procedure our shock sims will fail in a few hundred miles. There are scenarios where the SCM (Suspension Control Module) could damage our shock simulators with current (mA) and causes them to fail.

If you have ever had a leveling kit (OR ride height sensor) installed at the dealer or shop, and a Ride Height Trim Procedure was performed, then the values in your SCM are NOT STOCK.
If the new RHS simulator voltage is drastically different than the original one then the SCM will send current(mA) to that shock because it thinks it needs to be adjusted.

We can loan a scan tool to the customer with a new kit and perform the ride height trim procedure following our PDF instructions."


Images from the Xineering software module:
rhs.jpg

dtc.jpg

rhtp.jpg


Informational handout I received when Xineering sent me the cord to plug into Tahoe's computer:
Ride Height Trim Procedure INFO.jpg
 
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Xineering's website states "While the Ride Height Trim Procedure is recommended on the SUVs when bypassing the magneride. It MUST be performed on the Sierra Trucks. The suspension calibration of the Sierras is much more aggressive than the SUVs, without the trim procedure our shock sims will fail in a few hundred miles. There are scenarios where the SCM (Suspension Control Module) could damage our shock simulators with current (mA) and causes them to fail.

If you have ever had a leveling kit (OR ride height sensor) installed at the dealer or shop, and a Ride Height Trim Procedure was performed, then the values in your SCM are NOT STOCK.
If the new RHS simulator voltage is drastically different than the original one then the SCM will send current(mA) to that shock because it thinks it needs to be adjusted.

We can loan a scan tool to the customer with a new kit and perform the ride height trim procedure following our PDF instructions."
Well crap! I interpreted the message on their website as saying all Sierra's must have it, but it's not necessary for other vehicles. I've never altered anything in the suspension of my Tahoe so hopefully I'll be able to get by without it. If I get a warning message, I guess I'll already know what it is. ;)
 

gsd1019

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My 15’ tahoe magnetic ride failed at 60,000 mi. Both struts toast. But the ride was extremely harsh. Replaced under extended warranty. They did not want to pay at first, tried telling me my truck has “shocks” in the front and not struts. Long story short they paid that $1960 bill
 
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Spent pretty much most of the day doing the installation. Took about 6.5 hours, one trip to Autozone for a loaner tool, one smashed finger that nearly had me in tears, and more 4 letter words than I could count. But, it's done. Took it on a test drive and it feels great. Will ride on it a little bit to let it settle before I go for an alignment.

The front struts must have been completely shot because the ride height of the front is a lot higher now. With the old struts, the left front wheel well was 35" from the ground and the right was 34.5". After everything was installed, the left front is now 38" and the right is 37.5". The rears did not change height at all. They stayed at 38" and 37.5". I'm sure it will settle a little once driven around some. Not sure why the right side is a half inch lower, but that's how it was before the install and it's still that way after.
 
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Any idea how long it will take these to "settle" to their new height? My wife doesn't like the extra height they added to the frontend. I've emailed Monroe to see what they have to say about the increased ride height. I've also started looking around to see if there's something else I should try in the front? Anyone know another manufacturer that would be a good fit for trying to get a stock ride height?

One more question about something I don't understand. When looking at other options, I understand the "w/o Z95, Z55, etc." But why do some say "w/o 22 inch wheels?" I don't understand that.
 
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Well Monroe support was less than helpful. They essentially refused to offer help or support because the strut is "not designed to replace magnetic ride suspension."

Threads on other message boards suggest that the struts will settle after 500-1000 miles. However, in those posts I never saw the original poster following up that they had settled.

Also a good many reviews on Amazon that mention the same issue. Amazon return window closes on January 31, so I have a little time to look for alternatives if I decide to do that. Embarking on about a 500 mile trip today so we'll see if anything changes.

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olyelr

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Dont plan on them settling much more than a half inch or so. Probably not even that much.

dumb question, but are they adjustable?
 
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dumb question, but are they adjustable?

No they're not adjustable. However I have thought about swapping out the coils with the old ones I took out, but I don't know if I'm up for that job. I had to compress one of the coils to get the upper mounting plate rotated, and I was scared the compressor was gonna break and kill me.


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olyelr

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No they're not adjustable. However I have thought about swapping out the coils with the old ones I took out, but I don't know if I'm up for that job. I had to compress one of the coils to get the upper mounting plate rotated, and I was scared the compressor was gonna break and kill me.


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Hahahah, yea I just did the same thing with the fox coilovers i installed on my wifes denali. Had to take one completely apart. Sketchy to say the least. The second one wasnt quite so scary feeling lol.
 
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Gonna tighten everything down again and check the measurements. If the wife is still unhappy with it, I might think about getting a set of Bilstein 4600's and putting the factory springs on them and returning the Monroe's back to Amazon. Anyone run the 4600's on the front?
 

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Gonna tighten everything down again and check the measurements. If the wife is still unhappy with it, I might think about getting a set of Bilstein 4600's and putting the factory springs on them and returning the Monroe's back to Amazon. Anyone run the 4600's on the front?


You might want to double check the size of the Bilstein's top mount piece.
From what I was told, the Tahoe's top plate takes a larger size than what Bilstein has produced. The example below shows why the Bilstein B8 6112 kit will NOT work with our MRC front suspension being reconstructed. Hence -> complete front strut assembly solutions...
FYI - the Fox 2.0 can be adjusted down to 0" from the preset +2" out of the factory.

0
 
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You might want to double check the size of the Bilstein's top mount piece.
From what I was told, the Tahoe's top plate takes a larger size than what Bilstein has produced. The example below shows why the Bilstein B8 6112 kit will NOT work with our MRC front suspension being reconstructed. Hence -> complete front strut assembly solutions...
FYI - the Fox 2.0 can be adjusted down to 0" from the preset +2" out of the factory.
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As of right now, I'm just gonna stick with what I have. I started thinking about it more, and I don't want to drop the frontend down 3 inches, which is what the OEM springs would do. And then when I look at other springs, I have no idea how tall they would be. For instance, I started to look at the springs in some of the lowering kits. But then the question becomes: are they x inches lower than my OEM springs or the Monroe springs? It seems like a big trial and error game that I really don't feel like playing. So as of right now, just gonna stick with the Monroe's.
 
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Well, I took a shot and bought some AC Delco struts to see if I could just replace the struts and reuse the OEM springs. Took the old shock apart today, went to put the new strut in, and it didn't fit. The rod that goes up through the mounting plate was too thick. The threaded portion of the rod fit through the hole, but then it got thicker and wouldn't fit. So, I think my next option is to try some 2" spacers in the back and see what that looks like. Anyone put spacers in the back of an LTZ?
 

Oh Kee Pah

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Well, I took a shot and bought some AC Delco struts to see if I could just replace the struts and reuse the OEM springs. Took the old shock apart today, went to put the new strut in, and it didn't fit. The rod that goes up through the mounting plate was too thick. The threaded portion of the rod fit through the hole, but then it got thicker and wouldn't fit. So, I think my next option is to try some 2" spacers in the back and see what that looks like. Anyone put spacers in the back of an LTZ?


I'm running 1" coil spacer in the rear of my 2015 LTZ w/ Bilstein B8 5100 series (0-1" lift).
I have McBay Performance rear spacers. I think they are great and also the company will make you the exact size you want (if desired). https://mcbayperformance.com/

My Tahoe's MRC is deleted by Xineering's GM Shock Sim sensors.
I would assume a larger spacer would be no problem, as long as you have dealt with the MRC somehow. Fox has a rear shock made for 0-2" lift. I think BDS Suspension also sells their rear shocks online made for 0-2/2-4/4-6" lifts...
 
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I'm running 1" coil spacer in the rear of my 2015 LTZ w/ Bilstein B8 5100 series (0-1" lift).
I have McBay Performance rear spacers. I think they are great and also the company will make you the exact size you want (if desired). https://mcbayperformance.com/

My Tahoe's MRC is deleted by Xineering's GM Shock Sim sensors.
I would assume a larger spacer would be no problem, as long as you have dealt with the MRC somehow. Fox has a rear shock made for 0-2" lift. I think BDS Suspension also sells their rear shocks online made for 0-2/2-4/4-6" lifts...
Well, I'm gonna try one more model of front struts before I go with the spacers.

I've already dealt with the MRC with Xineering's kit too. Now just looking to get the ride height correct.

Thanks for the recommendation of BDS. They make a rear shock for 0-3" lift so if I end up going with the spacers I'll probably order new rear shocks from them. Looks to be decent quality and not that expensive either. Will definitely be an option when I end up dealing with the MRC on my Avalanche also.
 

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