It looks like that in person too. No idea, I've only owned this truck for a little over a month. No other signs of scrapes on the underside of the car -- I imagine they dented it when the transmission was off previously. PO said the torque converter was replaced at some point. When I do a transmission service I'll throw a new pan on because they are like $25.
07 Yukon Denali - Passenger Side Top/Rear Oil Leak
- Thread starter zissou
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It looks like that in person too. No idea, I've only owned this truck for a little over a month. No other signs of scrapes on the underside of the car -- I imagine they dented it when the transmission was off previously. PO said the torque converter was replaced at some point. When I do a transmission service I'll throw a new pan on because they are like $25.
Timing is all set. Everything is going smoothly so far. Should have the cam tomorrow. In the front I'll be replacing the phaser for the non-VVT sprocket, new timing guide, timing chain, and cam retainer plate.
Tomorrow when I wrap up some actual work, I'll pull the valve covers, remove the rockers, spin the cam a few times to get the lifters up, insert my 5/16" wooden dowels, then remove the cam retainer and swap the cam.
Tomorrow when I wrap up some actual work, I'll pull the valve covers, remove the rockers, spin the cam a few times to get the lifters up, insert my 5/16" wooden dowels, then remove the cam retainer and swap the cam.
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Good call on the bowtie chain guide. One more thing you might consider is the ARP crank bolt. I like it because it's reusable and can be torqued without an angle gauge.
All the work is done and the tune is loaded. Truck is running fantastic. Only went about 20 miles tonight but completely error free, great oil pressure, and it has picked up quite a bit up power up top. Hardly any difference in sound at idle, nice and quiet.
If I were to do it again I'd piece together the VVT delete kit myself. The plug and play VVT delete harness from Michigan Motorsports has the wrong connectors for my application. Just take your stock harness and remove the wires and 2 pins for the VVT magnet, piece of cake.
Here is a misc dump of pictures. I ended up plugging the oil pressure relief valve. Also put on a brand new oil pan for no good reason but it sure looks nice.
Here is a misc dump of pictures. I ended up plugging the oil pressure relief valve. Also put on a brand new oil pan for no good reason but it sure looks nice.
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I just want to chime in. I had this SAME ISSUE. There was a bit more oil, but looks the same. Come to find out, for me, that the weld from the dipstick mount to the tube had cracked and was spraying oil out, and onto the coil packs etc. This thread was amazing and very detailed, which is why I wanted to throw my two cents in.
I I am having the same problem. I replace my oil pan gasket and I am still getting oil all over the back 2 coils. I took my valve, cover off and it looks like it is leaking out of the bottom corner right above my coils. I replaced the gasket and it still seems to be leaking from the same spot. Could my head be warped or my valve cover be warped
You can buy a whole new valve cover with new gasket pre-installed for not much money. The Dorman part is a good one in this application.
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