08 Yukon Denali Rear main - what else?

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Denali2k8

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I've got a leak that has gotten worse as the temperatures have dropped and from everything that I've done so far, i'm assuming that it is now the rear main seal. I've already done the oil pan gasket and the oil pick up tube o-ring among some other different seals. I did the crank pulley seal. I've got a new water pump. I've got a valley cover set of gaskets. That's all new.

If I end up doing the rear main seal, what else should I do while I am that deep in the truck?
 

strutaeng

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6L80e? Torque converter.

I replaced the torque converter lock up o ring (reinstalled the same torque converter) and transmission front pump seal on my LQ4/4L80e last year when I did this job.

Get the centering tool to make sure rear seal is installed properly.
 
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donjetman

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I've got a leak that has gotten worse as the temperatures have dropped and from everything that I've done so far, i'm assuming that it is now the rear main seal. I've already done the oil pan gasket and the oil pick up tube o-ring among some other different seals. I did the crank pulley seal. I've got a new water pump. I've got a valley cover set of gaskets. That's all new.

If I end up doing the rear main seal, what else should I do while I am that deep in the truck?
Here's all the stuff I did, when I did the rear main seal, shortly after buying the 07 Denali:
MILEAGE – 132,000
11/23/18 to 12/7/19
Installed catch can - $40
Installed rear main seal & cover – Dorman 635-518 - $43

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/

Performed TSB 10-06-01-008M

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63...il+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf

and used Gunk Motor Medic $5 to do the piston combustion chamber soak,

replaced:
Valve cover driverside – GM# 12570427 - $117
Oil pan gasket – GM# 12612350 - $36
Oil pickup o-ring – Felpro 72401 or GM 12584922 - $9
Torque Converter – P4646 (gopnh.com) Precision- $218
Tranny front pump seal – GM# 24237531 - $30
Tranny Input shaft seal – GM# 24219390 - $10
AFM Deflector – gm#12639759 - $8
Trans cooler line 1 – ACDelco 15779543 - $16
Trans cooler lines 2 – ACDelco 25999420 - $56
Trans cooler clips- ACDelco# 24205103 - $10
Trans cooler gasket - $7
Front lower plastic cowl - $31
Starter – 6757N - $60
Alternator (160 amp) – 8301N - $108

Exhaust Manifold clamp, back driver side – APDTY# 028218 - $30
Exhaust manifold clamps, frt driver side, back pass – APDTY#028253- $67:

Frt sway bar end link poly bushings - $15
Frt sway bar bushings – Moog# K200222 - $7
Rear sway bar bushings – Moog K6408 - $8
Cleaned pass side valve cover inside and out - $2
Removed, cleaned, reinstalled spark plugs, they are Iridium ACDelco 41-985 (GM# 12571164), superseded by ACDelco# 41-110 (GM# 12621258).
Installed new spark plug wire set – ACDelco# 9748RR
Installed new ac belt and tensioner w/pulley
Installed new main belt, tensioner w/pulley, and idler pulley
Main serpentine belt – 6K935 - $19
tensioner - $32
idler pulley - $22
idler pulley - $16
AC belt – 4K378 - $16
tensioner - $28
 

Geotrash

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I've got a leak that has gotten worse as the temperatures have dropped and from everything that I've done so far, i'm assuming that it is now the rear main seal. I've already done the oil pan gasket and the oil pick up tube o-ring among some other different seals. I did the crank pulley seal. I've got a new water pump. I've got a valley cover set of gaskets. That's all new.

If I end up doing the rear main seal, what else should I do while I am that deep in the truck?
Keep in mind that oil cooler line plate/block-off plate is a devil to get to seal up once it starts leaking. I have installed multiple new seals of different designs in mine and even stripped out one of the bolts trying to give it a little extra torque (fixed with a helicoil), and they still seep a little bit on both of my rigs. I've made peace with it. Is there any oil inside the bell housing? If that's dry, then it's probably not your rear main seal.
 
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Denali2k8

Denali2k8

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Keep in mind that oil cooler line plate/block-off plate is a devil to get to seal up once it starts leaking. I have installed multiple new seals of different designs in mine and even stripped out one of the bolts trying to give it a little extra torque (fixed with a helicoil), and they still seep a little bit on both of my rigs. I've made peace with it. Is there any oil inside the bell housing? If that's dry, then it's probably not your rear main seal.
Sorry for the delay. I believe the last time we had it on the lift it did look like there was oil inside there but I don't remember to be honest
 

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