07+ Brake upgrade on a 00-06 NBS, is it worth it?

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ScottyBoy

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I ordered my rotors, calipers, and pads to fit a 2007 Suburban, and everything bolted up perfectly to my 2001 Suburban. I ordered all my stuff from Rockauto except for the rotors. I ordered the rotors from "Brakemotive" on eBay. Brakemotive sells Powerstop rotors and I have bought several sets for several different vehicles from them over many years now. Their prices simply cannot be beat. Two HEAVY front rotors for just over $100 SHIPPED! Rockauto was about the same price, but they want $40 for shipping on the brake rotors. So with free shipping, Brakemotive's prices can't be beat. I was also able to get the new Black Zinc plated Powerstop rotors from them, Rockauto doesn't even sell the black ones. Here's a picture of my black NNBS rotor next to the old NBS Powerstop rotors that have been on my truck since 2009.
IMG_20170209_164522718.jpg
 

mikeseay

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I believe 17's clear but not 16's. Didn't you do the upgrade while you had 17's @1992rs ?
According to the Baer website their 14 inch rotors require an 18 inch wheel and the 14.5 inch rotors require 20 inch wheels. This has been a good thread as I am also planning to change my brakes out and while I'm interested in the big brake kit it is hard to justify their price. This give me a lot of options, thanks everyone for your contributions, ideas and pictures.
 

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According to the Baer website their 14 inch rotors require an 18 inch wheel and the 14.5 inch rotors require 20 inch wheels. This has been a good thread as I am also planning to change my brakes out and while I'm interested in the big brake kit it is hard to justify their price. This give me a lot of options, thanks everyone for your contributions, ideas and pictures.
Interesting; I just installed Wilwood's and they state their 16" rotors require 20" wheels.
 

TheAutumnWind

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I ordered my rotors, calipers, and pads to fit a 2007 Suburban, and everything bolted up perfectly to my 2001 Suburban. I ordered all my stuff from Rockauto except for the rotors. I ordered the rotors from "Brakemotive" on eBay. Brakemotive sells Powerstop rotors and I have bought several sets for several different vehicles from them over many years now. Their prices simply cannot be beat. Two HEAVY front rotors for just over $100 SHIPPED! Rockauto was about the same price, but they want $40 for shipping on the brake rotors. So with free shipping, Brakemotive's prices can't be beat. I was also able to get the new Black Zinc plated Powerstop rotors from them, Rockauto doesn't even sell the black ones. Here's a picture of my black NNBS rotor next to the old NBS Powerstop rotors that have been on my truck since 2009.View attachment 188230
Very nice. Ill take a look at brakemotive when i take the plunge on my nnbs upgrade thanks!
 

Rocket Man

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Clearance Depends more on offset and caliper size then the rotor size.
Well, there's the fact that the calipers have to go outboard of the rotors so the size of the rotors is pretty important too. The rotors aren't what will hit but if you have 16" rotors and the calipers have to go outside of those, that has to be considered. Shape of spokes also matter. If they curve in you're screwed. Best bet is to get the templates. I also found out that neither the brake or wheel mfr. will state whether they'll fit. It's up to you to make sure.
 

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Well, there's the fact that the calipers have to go outboard of the rotors so the size of the rotors is pretty important too. The rotors aren't what will hit but if you have 16" rotors and the calipers have to go outside of those, that has to be considered. Shape of spokes also matter. If they curve in you're screwed. Best bet is to get the templates. I also found out that neither the brake or wheel mfr. will state whether they'll fit. It's up to you to make sure.

Obviously the rotors effect clearance as well. But the first thing that hits are the calipers. So theoretically you can have a larger rotor setup with more clearance then another one with a smaller rotor and larger calipers.
 

Rocket Man

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Obviously the rotors effect clearance as well. But the first thing that hits are the calipers. So theoretically you can have a larger rotor setup with more clearance then another one with a smaller rotor and larger calipers.
I understand. But the calipers spacing from the center of the wheel depends on the diameter of the rotor. Besides, the larger the rotor, the larger the caliper. I have 14" rotors on the rear. If I was to put the huge front calipers on the rear, I'd still have way more clearance than the front. But of course the 14" rotors require way smaller calipers. If I take the smaller rear calipers and install them on the front rotors, there isn't as much difference, like maybe 1/4" between the 2 different calipers.
 

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This matters only up to a certain size of wheel though. After about 22" wheels, the thickness of the calipers could possibly be a factor. The size of the rotors won't matter after 22" wheels. Here's some pics of the 22" reps I run this time of year and the 26" I run in the summer.

IMG_7269.JPG IMG_7271.JPG IMG_7272.JPG
 

TheAutumnWind

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I understand. But the calipers spacing from the center of the wheel depends on the diameter of the rotor. Besides, the larger the rotor, the larger the caliper. I have 14" rotors on the rear. If I was to put the huge front calipers on the rear, I'd still have way more clearance than the front. But of course the 14" rotors require way smaller calipers. If I take the smaller rear calipers and install them on the front rotors, there isn't as much difference, like maybe 1/4" between the 2 different calipers.

Yeah that makes sense.
 

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Tahoe PS Brakes Front.jpg
Tahoe PS Brakes Rear.jpg
Power Stop OEM style kits, Front KCOE-2069; Rear KCOE-2047.

Upgraded the front pads from the OEM Z16 style to Z23 Evolution Sport.

I took a few minutes to paint the calipers red (they come silver).


I had planned to install stainless hoses but the steel lines are so crusty from Michigan rust that almost certainly they will twist and break, so that's going to have to wait until I have time to replace the steel lines as well. After 160k miles on the originals, I'm sure the stainless lines will be a big improvement.


I opted for the plain, stock style rotors as I agree with others in this thread that the slotted/drilled rotors offer no benefit for street use. Those are designed for track day cars where heat dissipation is a concern. Plus, IMO the reduction in swept area kind of cancels out the switch to bigger rotors. Unless you're towing a lot, or commute daily in Southern California type traffic, or just like the look, I can't justify the extra expense.


Bought this stuff from Jeg's, the front kit was $248, rear $260, Z23 front pads $53, total $561. (I'm hoping to get $30 or so back when I sell the stock Z16 pads.)

Free shipping, and get this: NO core charges!

Rock Auto was a bit cheaper, but the idea of going to the wrecking yard to buy cores, and paying to ship them back was a deal breaker.


Are they worth it? Absolutely. Is it a night and day difference? No, but it's still a remarkable improvement and given the fact that the older fronts were actually a bit more money (about $30 when I priced things), it's a no brainer.

The pedal feel is much more linear, and the brakes start to grab much more quickly. (My brakes were working fine, with only about 35k since the last brake service, so I'm comparing brakes were in good working order.) In short, the Tahoe is no longer scary to drive.
 

Rocket Man

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View attachment 190780 View attachment 190781 Power Stop OEM style kits, Front KCOE-2069; Rear KCOE-2047.

Upgraded the front pads from the OEM Z16 style to Z23 Evolution Sport.

I took a few minutes to paint the calipers red (they come silver).


I had planned to install stainless hoses but the steel lines are so crusty from Michigan rust that almost certainly they will twist and break, so that's going to have to wait until I have time to replace the steel lines as well. After 160k miles on the originals, I'm sure the stainless lines will be a big improvement.


I opted for the plain, stock style rotors as I agree with others in this thread that the slotted/drilled rotors offer no benefit for street use. Those are designed for track day cars where heat dissipation is a concern. Plus, IMO the reduction in swept area kind of cancels out the switch to bigger rotors. Unless you're towing a lot, or commute daily in Southern California type traffic, or just like the look, I can't justify the extra expense.


Bought this stuff from Jeg's, the front kit was $248, rear $260, Z23 front pads $53, total $561. (I'm hoping to get $30 or so back when I sell the stock Z16 pads.)

Free shipping, and get this: NO core charges!

Rock Auto was a bit cheaper, but the idea of going to the wrecking yard to buy cores, and paying to ship them back was a deal breaker.


Are they worth it? Absolutely. Is it a night and day difference? No, but it's still a remarkable improvement and given the fact that the older fronts were actually a bit more money (about $30 when I priced things), it's a no brainer.

The pedal feel is much more linear, and the brakes start to grab much more quickly. (My brakes were working fine, with only about 35k since the last brake service, so I'm comparing brakes were in good working order.) In short, the Tahoe is no longer scary to drive.
Why would you have to go buy cores? I sent my old NBS back to Amazon for cores and they never said a word. The people receiving cores don't know the difference.
BTW excellent paint job.
 

tooeasy

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Rock Auto actually has a disclaimer "returned cores must be exactly the same" and
"no junkyard parts accepted" (how would they know?)
(I just tried to bring up their site to get the exact wording but it's down.)
Didn't want to take a chance that they'd refuse them. Plus, just didn't want the hassle.
 

TheAutumnWind

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View attachment 190780 View attachment 190781 Power Stop OEM style kits, Front KCOE-2069; Rear KCOE-2047.

Upgraded the front pads from the OEM Z16 style to Z23 Evolution Sport.

I took a few minutes to paint the calipers red (they come silver).


I had planned to install stainless hoses but the steel lines are so crusty from Michigan rust that almost certainly they will twist and break, so that's going to have to wait until I have time to replace the steel lines as well. After 160k miles on the originals, I'm sure the stainless lines will be a big improvement.


I opted for the plain, stock style rotors as I agree with others in this thread that the slotted/drilled rotors offer no benefit for street use. Those are designed for track day cars where heat dissipation is a concern. Plus, IMO the reduction in swept area kind of cancels out the switch to bigger rotors. Unless you're towing a lot, or commute daily in Southern California type traffic, or just like the look, I can't justify the extra expense.


Bought this stuff from Jeg's, the front kit was $248, rear $260, Z23 front pads $53, total $561. (I'm hoping to get $30 or so back when I sell the stock Z16 pads.)

Free shipping, and get this: NO core charges!

Rock Auto was a bit cheaper, but the idea of going to the wrecking yard to buy cores, and paying to ship them back was a deal breaker.


Are they worth it? Absolutely. Is it a night and day difference? No, but it's still a remarkable improvement and given the fact that the older fronts were actually a bit more money (about $30 when I priced things), it's a no brainer.

The pedal feel is much more linear, and the brakes start to grab much more quickly. (My brakes were working fine, with only about 35k since the last brake service, so I'm comparing brakes were in good working order.) In short, the Tahoe is no longer scary to drive.

I agree with your thoughts on blank rotors
 

Bombsquad85

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@tooeasy Do you have a link to the ones you got? I'm leaning towards the nnbs upgrade but want to make sure I get the ones that don't need a core
 

bottomline2000

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I ordered my rotors, calipers, and pads to fit a 2007 Suburban, and everything bolted up perfectly to my 2001 Suburban. I ordered all my stuff from Rockauto except for the rotors. I ordered the rotors from "Brakemotive" on eBay. Brakemotive sells Powerstop rotors and I have bought several sets for several different vehicles from them over many years now. Their prices simply cannot be beat. Two HEAVY front rotors for just over $100 SHIPPED! Rockauto was about the same price, but they want $40 for shipping on the brake rotors. So with free shipping, Brakemotive's prices can't be beat. I was also able to get the new Black Zinc plated Powerstop rotors from them, Rockauto doesn't even sell the black ones. Here's a picture of my black NNBS rotor next to the old NBS Powerstop rotors that have been on my truck since 2009.View attachment 188230
How do you like the drilled/slotted rotors? Curious if you have hydroboost too. I know what's been said about them but I want some real world experience. I have slotted rotors from R1 on my GTO and am considering these new one ls for the hoe. I figure I should have plenty of grab with my hydroboost system.

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88b4d0db91ef49f62e0692baa12c884c.jpg
 

HiHoeSilver

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How do you like the drilled/slotted rotors? Curious if you have hydroboost too. I know what's been said about them but I want some real world experience. I have slotted rotors from R1 on my GTO and am considering these new one ls for the hoe. I figure I should have plenty of grab with my hydroboost system.

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88b4d0db91ef49f62e0692baa12c884c.jpg

Those are top on my list for my upgrade as well...
 

Scottydoggs

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i also went with R1's E lines with ceramic pads with the stock brakes. have hydro boost, truck stops great. ive used r1 in the past, its all im ever using from now on. nothing else for the price will work as well. ive spent more and got nothing compared to the r1 braking. buy em off ebay its 200 shipped for all 4 corners.

019.jpg
 
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ScottyBoy

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How do you like the drilled/slotted rotors? Curious if you have hydroboost too. I know what's been said about them but I want some real world experience. I have slotted rotors from R1 on my GTO and am considering these new one ls for the hoe. I figure I should have plenty of grab with my hydroboost system.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
88b4d0db91ef49f62e0692baa12c884c.jpg


The drilled and slotted rotors on my truck work great. Back in 2010, I've gone from stock rotors to the drilled and slotted and that alone was a huge upgrade. Then a few months back I replaced them yet again and swapped the stock size drilled and slotted for the 07 drilled and slotted which was another improvement. Not as big as an improvement as I was hoping for,a but it was definitely a noticeable difference. And I don't have hydroboost. I've considered rounding up all the parts and doing the hydroboost upgrade, but at the moment I am pretty satisfied with the way my truck stops so it's not a priority.
 

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