'04 Tahoe Overheating!!!! What's the problem???
- Thread starter Mobetta72
- Start date
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JAWKNEEBEE
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2016
- Posts
- 29
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My try backflushing sounds like there is a blockage
So many ?'s. Im pretty confident I can help ya out, just need some info.
1) Any coolant loss?
2) How did you go about filling the coolant after T stat?
3) Can you hear a change in your fan when its hot?
4) Is fan hard to turn by hand when cold?
5) Sounds like we have some coolant loss.
6) blowing warm air on the inside?
7) 110% sure t stat is pointing the right direction?
8) both hoses warm when overheat happens?
ill check this later and see what we can come up with.
1) Any coolant loss?
2) How did you go about filling the coolant after T stat?
3) Can you hear a change in your fan when its hot?
4) Is fan hard to turn by hand when cold?
5) Sounds like we have some coolant loss.
6) blowing warm air on the inside?
7) 110% sure t stat is pointing the right direction?
8) both hoses warm when overheat happens?
ill check this later and see what we can come up with.
Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
Sounds like you had the issue before changing the thermostat, did you flush everything out with water especially the radiator?
Answer Tlang's questions and mine when you get a chance!
Answer Tlang's questions and mine when you get a chance!
bottomline2000
Full Access Member
Water pump bad..I wouldn't trust one with more than 100k miles on it.
Ahh the good ol post and leave. Water pump could totally be bad, if it was leaking due to a bad bearing we would hopefully see some coolant loss. If the impeller was worn away (more common on plastic fins) you would see it in lack of flow, that you could hopefully tell by feeling the hoses.
I agree it seems as though the problem was present before and after. However you could very easily also have a situation where the Tstat was stuck and in replacing in OP didnt get all the bled out or installed it in the wrong direction. So two different problems still overheating before and after. Just gotta find the cause.
Hopefully OP gets back to us
I agree it seems as though the problem was present before and after. However you could very easily also have a situation where the Tstat was stuck and in replacing in OP didnt get all the bled out or installed it in the wrong direction. So two different problems still overheating before and after. Just gotta find the cause.
Hopefully OP gets back to us
Sorry, for the delay in answering, but I really appreciate your help. Here are my answers.
1. No
2. Filled through the coolant reservoir on the left. That's the only way that I know to fill it.
3. No change that I have noticed.
4. No
5. There is no leaking of coolant that I can see.
6. I haven't turned on heater since this has been going on.
7. I am pretty sure, I put it in just as it came out.
8. It takes the upper hose a while to get hot.
Sorry for the delay in answering, but I really appreciate your help!
There is no coolant loss that I can see!!!
No, I did not flush anything out. I really don't know how to do that.
Hey there! OK now we can get started. With the recovery bottle its pretty important to fill the coolant, install cap tightly, run until operating temp, shut it off and allow it to cool all the way back down. This causes a vacuum from the coolant contracting. AFter its cooled all the way down you can take the cap off and should hear a rushing sound, now normally at this point it should take some more coolant. This is because air gets trapped in the system while filling.
At the end of the day there are really only two categories for over heating. Either not enough coolant, (air trapped in the system, a leak, consumption like a Head gasket) or the heat is not getting removed from the coolant as designed, ( no flow, clogged radiator, bad water pump, bad fan, an air bubble can block flow as well, etc.)
Its pretty important to turn the heat on when warming it up after any coolant work. Your heater core is a weird little corner of the system and is sometimes higher than the filling point, therefore it can trap air pretty easy. If it has air trapped you wont have heat blowing inside, if you have good heat blowing inside you can confirm no air is trapped in the heater core, your getting flow and you T stat is opening. In addition turning your heat on full blast can actually keep the temp in check if your trying to get home or to a safe pot or something.
A clogged radiator will normally cause problems on the freeway and be ok at idle. Unless she is really clogged then it can happen at idle as well. I would say to check if the radiator is flowing. To do this run her until she is warm (normal temp, not hot) shut it off, wait for fan to stop, then reach in and see if the radiator is warm all the way across. If you have a huge cold spot in the middle or say the bottom half. You have a clogged radiator. This would be a case of not removing heat from the coolant.
I forgot to ask but what did the coolant look like when you did the t stat? nice and clean or kinda rusty?
How much coolant did you drain out roughly and how much did you put back in roughly?
Also make sure to check the coolant first thing when its cold, add as needed.
hope I didnt bore ya. just trying to help get ya down the right line to figure it out.
At the end of the day there are really only two categories for over heating. Either not enough coolant, (air trapped in the system, a leak, consumption like a Head gasket) or the heat is not getting removed from the coolant as designed, ( no flow, clogged radiator, bad water pump, bad fan, an air bubble can block flow as well, etc.)
Its pretty important to turn the heat on when warming it up after any coolant work. Your heater core is a weird little corner of the system and is sometimes higher than the filling point, therefore it can trap air pretty easy. If it has air trapped you wont have heat blowing inside, if you have good heat blowing inside you can confirm no air is trapped in the heater core, your getting flow and you T stat is opening. In addition turning your heat on full blast can actually keep the temp in check if your trying to get home or to a safe pot or something.
A clogged radiator will normally cause problems on the freeway and be ok at idle. Unless she is really clogged then it can happen at idle as well. I would say to check if the radiator is flowing. To do this run her until she is warm (normal temp, not hot) shut it off, wait for fan to stop, then reach in and see if the radiator is warm all the way across. If you have a huge cold spot in the middle or say the bottom half. You have a clogged radiator. This would be a case of not removing heat from the coolant.
I forgot to ask but what did the coolant look like when you did the t stat? nice and clean or kinda rusty?
How much coolant did you drain out roughly and how much did you put back in roughly?
Also make sure to check the coolant first thing when its cold, add as needed.
hope I didnt bore ya. just trying to help get ya down the right line to figure it out.
