“Driver Door Open” message on 2009 Tahoe LTZ

[RJLTZ09]

I took the driver door innards apart to replace the door lock actuator and now I see the above message on the dash even when the door is firmly closed. Since there isn’t a switch in the door hinge area anymore, the switch must be in the actuator and must be communicated through the connectors that are under the switch plate at the driver’s left hand. Does anyone know which connector is the culprit or the cause of the erroneous message?

This is my first attempt at posting so please forgive the double posting in Conversations.

 

[Big Mama]

Do the dome lights stay on too?

 

[RJLTZ09]

Great question. I always have the interior lights turned off because of how often I load and unload the vehicle, so I wouldn’t have noticed that. I’m away from the Tahoe until tomorrow afternoon and will have to answer then. Thanks!

 

[RJLTZ09]

Do the dome lights stay on too?

Got back late today, driving a different car. The dome light in the Tahoe didn’t work as it should. I need to spend more time with it tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[Cb2004mj]

let us know what you figure out, I'm having a similar problem with the door switch not telling the truck its open, so opposite issue but same switch. radio stays on and lights don't react with door open. i have door panel off for window regulator replacement. have new exterior handles coming next week so ill do this all at once if you find a resolve or culprit wire to inspect

 

[RJLTZ09]

let us know what you figure out, I'm having a similar problem with the door switch not telling the truck its open, so opposite issue but same switch. radio stays on and lights don't react with door open. i have door panel off for window regulator replacement. have new exterior handles coming next week so ill do this all at once if you find a resolve or culprit wire to inspect

When I walked up to the Tahoe this morning and opened the driver door, the DOME OFF switch was turned off. I pushed the switch once with the driver door opened and closed and the dome light did not come on. I pushed it again with the driver door open and closed and it did not come on.

I then opened one of the back doors while the driver door was open and the dome light came on. I closed the back door and the dome light went off (regardless of whether the driver door was open or closed).

I then opened the front passenger door and the dome light came on and stayed on even after I closed all of the doors and started the Tahoe. I could only get the dome light to go off by pushing the DOME OFF switch.

Previously, when I turned off the engine I could still roll up the window if I did it before opening the driver door. Now that doesn’t work, I guess because the Tahoe thinks I have opened the door. Now, when I turn off the engine, the radio goes off immediately. It previously stayed on until I opened the driver door.

Any idea would be appreciated.

 

[02Lightning]

Pretty sure it's the latch it's self that has the switch in it.

 

[Big Mama]

02 is right it’s in the latch and the good news is it causes all of the problems you’re finding. Cheap part easyish fix take care of that leg man.

 

[RJLTZ09]

Thanks, all,

After butchering up the original actuator while drilling out the studs to replace its motor, I found a new actuator assembly from GM Parts Garage at the best price and have it in hand, in case the screws in the original one backed out. I was hoping the answer was in the connectors under the driver’s armrest because disconnecting the rod that goes from the actuator to the outside door handle is such a pain.

So, thanks for all the help figuring this one out! And now I have a spare, new motor for when I actually cannot put up with this situation any more.

BTW, This vehicle has been in a death spiral. The cruise control quit working. The back up proximity warning buzzer quit working. The Parking Assist doesn’t work. It will probably cost a bunch whenever I decide to get all this fixed and sell it. Can a trailer hitch and hitch ball affect any of this?

Cheers!

 

[Big Mama]

Using a magnetic tool for the rod made it easier for me. Did these things happen before the door latch? If so the brake pedal switch under the dash should solve the cc issue and perhaps smog the parking issues. Also check your ground cables. These are known to cause problems. OE receiver or aftermarket?

 

[Doubeleive]

cruise control wont work if there are other problems detected by the bcm it's a built in safety feature, same for the auto start, and anything blocking the rear backup sensors ability to read the area they are designed to "see" will cause a problem. Also backing up faster than 5mph will shut the sensors off. If you installed something on the rear and it is not blocking the sensors then check the wiring harness to the sensors and see if you accidentally yanked one out or something in the process. the Buzzer sound is probably produced by the bcm and is not likely to be a separate device.

 

[RJLTZ09]

Using a magnetic tool for the rod made it easier for me. Did these things happen before the door latch? If so the brake pedal switch under the dash should solve the cc issue and perhaps smog the parking issues. Also check your ground cables. These are known to cause problems. OE receiver or aftermarket?

It was disconnecting the rod that was difficult. The window being able to be closed and the radio staying on until I opened the door we’re both features that existed before I replaced the lock actuator. Before the replacement of the actuator, the cruise control quit working (worked on and off and then just quit working permanently). The back up proximity buzzer and the Park Assist quit working over two years ago. I leave a trailer hitch in the OEM hitch receiver. I will go look to see if a wire is disconnected from one of the rear bumper mounted sensors and look at the ground cables.

Thanks for the help!

 

[RJLTZ09]

cruise control wont work if there are other problems detected by the bcm it's a built in safety feature, same for the auto start, and anything blocking the rear backup sensors ability to read the area they are designed to "see" will cause a problem. Also backing up faster than 5mph will shut the sensors off. If you installed something on the rear and it is not blocking the sensors then check the wiring harness to the sensors and see if you accidentally yanked one out or something in the process. the Buzzer sound is probably produced by the bcm and is not likely to be a separate device.

Thanks. I grouped the response to some of your suggestions in the earlier reply. I will pull the hitch out of the OEM receiver to see if the sensors are looking at it and check out the sensor and ground wiring. I appreciate your insights.

 

[Big Mama]

Good info knowing it didn’t happen all at once. My cc did same thing it was switch under pedal I doubt your hitch is causing the rear problems so your left with a simple bad latch sensor in the door. My guess on rear is a short or a ground wire look at the wires that come through the top of the lift gate

 

[wjburken]

BTW, This vehicle has been in a death spiral. The cruise control quit working. The back up proximity warning buzzer quit working. The Parking Assist doesn’t work. It will probably cost a bunch whenever I decide to get all this fixed and sell it. Can a trailer hitch and hitch ball affect any of this?

Like Big Mama said, the brake switch is your likely cause of cruise issues. I can’t believe how many people I’ve talked to that have been putting up with cruise control issues and were able to fix with a $30 part and 5 minutes of effort.

If your hitch is aftermarket, do you have a pinched wire going to a bumper sensor?