2013 Denali with 6.2 prone to burn oil?

thedog52 · Jul 16, 2026

I have a 2013 Denali with the 6.2. Currently has 107k miles. I have owned it since 100k. I took it in to get the tires rotated and they are telling me there is no oil on the dipstick. I changed the oil at 105k. I am familiar with LS engines and do my own oil changes, trans services, etc....

Are these things prone to burning oil?? I know the newer engines GM says it is normal to consume oil but I dont remember anything about the gen IV LS burning oil. I know some of you guys put on catch cans. IS that all I need to do? I plan on pulling a few spark plugs this weekend and seeing if theres any evidence of oil burning.

I am also wondering if the Firestone shop I use for tires and such is just trying to sell me an oil change. Lying about burning oil is big deal. To me anyways.

West 1 · Jul 16, 2026

The 6.2L engines I have had apart or owned did not use any oil at all. Even at 200,000 miles the rings and cylinders look great in the engines I have torn down. Tested they showed leak down tests under 3% which is fantastic in any engine measured.

What people do find is issues with the PCV system and there are a variety of fixes for that issue. PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

Other possible issue is an oil leak maybe dumping oil as you drive? Rear Main seal maybe?

Z15 · Jul 16, 2026

The prior owner probably used cheap oil and you are stuck with the results.

rdezs · Jul 16, 2026

A 2013 with 107,000 miles shouldn't be using any oil at all.... Our 2014 at 188,000 miles still doesn't use a drop.

strutaeng · Jul 16, 2026

Shouldn't be burning oil at that mileage, no.

If you are bored and want to kill time, you can do a compression test, but I wouldn't bother. If you suspect some negligence from the previous owner, run some Valvoline Restore & Protect. I haven't used it myself, but there's several guy here that have, and can attest that running that oil gets rid of internal carbon deposits.

Several years ago I tore down the original 4.3 Vortec (SBC-based) from my 99 Silverado that developed low oil pressure. It had 265k and I maintained it well since I bought the truck with like 87k from the original owner (older gentleman). All cylinder bores were wore out pretty good, and all bearings, journals, piston skirts and other critical surfaces had significant wear. Engine was scrapped, but that would have taken MAJOR machining to get it back in service. Engine did burn a good amount of oil by then. I can't remember exactly, but I want to say several quarts of oil between oil changes, which I did back then at 3k intervals. I feel like 150k-175k on those engines is about as much as they'll run good before starting to burn oil with the really old and heavy piston rings wearing the cylinder bores.

2 years ago I tore down the LQ4 in my 06 Suburban because it had an intermittent lifter tick. I decided to do a DIY rebuild because the engine ran good otherwise. It also had 265k, coincidently. I bought with 225k and I believe it had 2 or 3 previous owners, but no service history. I was blown away how everything had so LITTLE wear. Cylinder bores still had cross hatching, the main/rod bearings had minimal wear that I could have reused. Crankshaft journals were beautiful. I replaced the bearings, piston rings and gaskets and slapped it back together and she's going strong. Pretty close to 300k now. No oil added between oil changes (before or after) which I do on approx. 5k oil change intervals.

100k on an LS is barely broken-into TBH.

Fless · Jul 16, 2026

Put the oil level at the correct level on the dipstick and document it (mileage and level). Then check it each week -- or at short periodic times -- under the same conditions. Like on the same level ground, after the oil has drained back into the pan, etc. That way you'll have a track record and can document how much is used over any given time period and elapsed mileage.

thedog52 · Jul 16, 2026

West 1 said:
The 6.2L engines I have had apart or owned did not use any oil at all. Even at 200,000 miles the rings and cylinders look great in the engines I have torn down. Tested they showed leak down tests under 3% which is fantastic in any engine measured.

What people do find is issues with the PCV system and there are a variety of fixes for that issue. PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

Other possible issue is an oil leak maybe dumping oil as you drive? Rear Main seal maybe?

Rear main was changed at the time I purchased the vehicle. I have looked through the inspection cover on the underside of the 6l80 and have no evidence of a leak there. I have replaced the oil cooler gasket for leaking. It is possible that is leaking again. Although I have not seen any oil on my garage floor. I think I am going to pull a few plugs this weekend and see if there may be any evidence there. Catch cans are cheap enough I figure ill throw one of those on when I get a chance. This Yukon was owned by an elderly person and from what I can tell was never really driven and taken well care of. It still has the remote and headphones in original GM packaging. I doubt it is from negligence. I am not putting it past them saying these things just to sell me a service.

thedog52 · Jul 16, 2026

Fless said:
Put the oil level at the correct level on the dipstick and document it (mileage and level). Then check it each week -- or at short periodic times -- under the same conditions. Like on the same level ground, after the oil has drained back into the pan, etc. That way you'll have a track record and can document how much is used over any given time period and elapsed mileage.

Yep, plan to do that. I may go ahead and check a few plugs this weekend as well. Catch cans are cheap enough Ill throw one on just to see what happens.

thedog52 · Jul 16, 2026

strutaeng said:
Shouldn't be burning oil at that mileage, no.

If you are bored and want to kill time, you can do a compression test, but I wouldn't bother. If you suspect some negligence from the previous owner, run some Valvoline Restore & Protect. I haven't used it myself, but there's several guy here that have, and can attest that running that oil gets rid of internal carbon deposits.

Several years ago I tore down the original 4.3 Vortec (SBC-based) from my 99 Silverado that developed low oil pressure. It had 265k and I maintained it well since I bought the truck with like 87k from the original owner (older gentleman). All cylinder bores were wore out pretty good, and all bearings, journals, piston skirts and other critical surfaces had significant wear. Engine was scrapped, but that would have taken MAJOR machining to get it back in service. Engine did burn a good amount of oil by then. I can't remember exactly, but I want to say several quarts of oil between oil changes, which I did back then at 3k intervals. I feel like 150k-175k on those engines is about as much as they'll run good before starting to burn oil with the really old and heavy piston rings wearing the cylinder bores.

2 years ago I tore down the LQ4 in my 06 Suburban because it had an intermittent lifter tick. I decided to do a DIY rebuild because the engine ran good otherwise. It also had 265k, coincidently. I bought with 225k and I believe it had 2 or 3 previous owners, but no service history. I was blown away how everything had so LITTLE wear. Cylinder bores still had cross hatching, the main/rod bearings had minimal wear that I could have reused. Crankshaft journals were beautiful. I replaced the bearings, piston rings and gaskets and slapped it back together and she's going strong. Pretty close to 300k now. No oil added between oil changes (before or after) which I do on approx. 5k oil change intervals.

100k on an LS is barely broken-into TBH.

I agree, I know these engines have AFM issues but overall are very well built. My AFM has been tuned out, but all the parts are still inside the motor. I honestly think it was Firestone messing with me, but who knows.

Joseph Garcia · Jul 16, 2026

Quick question....... After being told that you had no oil reading on the dipstick, did you personally verify that they were telling you the truth, by looking at the dipstick yourself?

Do what @Fless recommended, and do NOTHING else, until you've had a few weeks of personal observation.

Then, come up with a troubleshooting plan, if you are still losing oil.

West 1 · Jul 17, 2026

The 4.3L Gm is old technology like to older 5.7L 350. They used standard tension piston rings that wore a lot more on the cylidners than modern low or light tension piston rings. Night and day difference and one reason the LS style engines last longer and do not use oil at high miles. Technology advanced and the results are very good for the most part.

On the LS engines even the fuel injection and timing improved helping the pistons, rings and cylinders last much longer. The cylinder heads are better and have better valve stem seals. Not saying the LS does not have its issues but it is a really big improvement over the old GM engines which I happen to really like but understand they are not as good as the newer stuff.

Marky Dissod · Jul 17, 2026

I'm a former mid-90s LT1 enthusiast who still tunes those pcms. From experiences, I can categorically state that
the best ways to get more bang for your buck out of a 5.7L LT1 are to update it with as many GM Gen3 V8 features as possible:
*increase fuel pressure from 3bar/43psi to 4bar/58psi & update the injectors
*update the ignition system by either bypassing the -Spark in the Opti-Spark, or bypassing the entire Opti-Spark, & updating cam & crank sensors
*update the pcm with a 12200411
*update the cam firing order from 1-8-4-3-6-5,7-2 to 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 (this one absolutely requires pcm tuning)
*deck the block so the piston peaks just over the top of the block @ TDC
*finish the heads so the combustion chamber has a better-defined quench area
*select lower-friction piston rings
*update the valve seals
*update the valvetrain with 1.6 roller rockers

Not cheap to do those things to LT1s, but the end result is always a considerably more efficient & more powerful LT1.
Most of these things can also be done to older Chevy Small Blocks.

One other thing: the 4.3L V6 never had a Gen2 or Gen3, it's pretty much an 'original'/Gen1 Chevy Small Block V6.
In 2013 it skipped past Generations 2, 3, & 4 upon the debut of the LV3, and its final successor, the LV1 which lacked V4 mode.

Nagloc68 · Tuesday at 2:33 PM

I am the original owner of a 2013 Yukon XL Denali with 6.2 and 191k miles. No oil burn. I have used synthetic its entire life, switched to a synthetic hi mileage some time ago and go to a Just Tires for my oil change and tire/brake maintenance. I have been impressed with their support and service with all our non-warranty cars. I try to change oils around 10% life, and about 60% of my mileage these days is highway.

I had one short period when I was getting oil changes at a quick lube type of shop. I got two changes only and both times the truck did not make it to the oil change indication before the check oil light indicated. I think they were shorting me a quart. Never went back and it never alerted again.

swathdiver · Tuesday at 3:12 PM

thedog52 said:
I have a 2013 Denali with the 6.2. Currently has 107k miles. I have owned it since 100k. I took it in to get the tires rotated and they are telling me there is no oil on the dipstick. I changed the oil at 105k. I am familiar with LS engines and do my own oil changes, trans services, etc....

Are these things prone to burning oil?? I know the newer engines GM says it is normal to consume oil but I dont remember anything about the gen IV LS burning oil. I know some of you guys put on catch cans. IS that all I need to do? I plan on pulling a few spark plugs this weekend and seeing if theres any evidence of oil burning.

I am also wondering if the Firestone shop I use for tires and such is just trying to sell me an oil change. Lying about burning oil is big deal. To me anyways.

My 5.3 has always consumed oil when my wife drives it. She routinely spins the motor up past 3,500 rpms pulling away from every traffic light. I don't drive so aggressively and consequently don't burn much oil if any.

The previous owner may have been a cheapskate and ran 87 octane gas in that high compression engine before you bought it. That will do a number on the rings and cylinder walls and cause the engine to consume oil and then break rings and pistons years after they'd traded it in.

You ought to be checking your own oil regularly and next time you change your own oil, send off a sample for analysis to a place like BlackStone-Labs.

The wrong oil can also cause consumption, make sure what you're putting in there is GM Dexos approved.

Fless · Wednesday at 7:08 PM

Nagloc68 said:
I am the original owner of a 2013 Yukon XL Denali with 6.2 and 191k miles. No oil burn. I have used synthetic its entire life, switched to a synthetic hi mileage some time ago and go to a Just Tires for my oil change and tire/brake maintenance. I have been impressed with their support and service with all our non-warranty cars. I try to change oils around 10% life, and about 60% of my mileage these days is highway.

I had one short period when I was getting oil changes at a quick lube type of shop. I got two changes only and both times the truck did not make it to the oil change indication before the check oil light indicated. I think they were shorting me a quart. Never went back and it never alerted again.

As stated here many times, check your oil periodically so you know what the level is and how much it uses over mileage and time. I find it difficult to insinuate that I was shorted a quart if I don't have any evidence.

Being shorted a quart at an oil change won't necessarily be reflected in the oil life monitor, if that's what you were indicating.

2013 Denali with 6.2 prone to burn oil?

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