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Yes, that's who I bought my block from. That's it in my pic before install
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
- Start date
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mikez71
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Looking for some tow mirrors.
I notice this ebay listing mentions an additional bracket to prevent vibration..
Also mentions no instructions.. Or maybe amazon is a safer bet?
I notice this ebay listing mentions an additional bracket to prevent vibration..
Also mentions no instructions.. Or maybe amazon is a safer bet?
The non-level mounting is what keeps me away from this style of mirror, but they all seem to be like that.
I have experimented with a few things to try to level then, but it doesn’t look right either… and sometimes introduces vibration.
FWIW..
Boost Auto does offer tow mirrors that are level, but you have to order them with electric fold… it puts the pair in $1000 territory. OUCH !
mikez71
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I'm hoping someone updated their mirrors to be more level.. Even if they did, there's no telling which one I'm buying since nobody specifies..
Amazon has an easy return policy if anything is terribly wrong.. But I'll see if the ebay seller responds to my questions about a warranty..
Looking because my drivers mirror has turned brown, and the adjustment moves very slowly/inconsistenly.
But also because the field of view seems small.. (My '12 Tahoe seems better, I think that notched section of mirror must be the reason..)
I'm leaning towards the older style mirror, just because it seems a little sleeker than the newer boxy style..
Also planning on a new door module, I wonder if I can get a module without power folding since most tow mirrors don't fold?
Amazon has an easy return policy if anything is terribly wrong.. But I'll see if the ebay seller responds to my questions about a warranty..
Looking because my drivers mirror has turned brown, and the adjustment moves very slowly/inconsistenly.
But also because the field of view seems small.. (My '12 Tahoe seems better, I think that notched section of mirror must be the reason..)
I'm leaning towards the older style mirror, just because it seems a little sleeker than the newer boxy style..
Also planning on a new door module, I wonder if I can get a module without power folding since most tow mirrors don't fold?
Tonyrodz
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Yup, they have door modules without the powerfold mirrors. Without the powerfold there's a lighted mirror icon, without it doesn't have the icon, and the switch looks a little different.
mikez71
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Cool, as long is there aren't any compatability issues, I'm going with non folding switches.
I hate when I accidentally hit the button.. then have to wait and hit the button again to unfold them.
The last time I hit the button, it took like 10 seconds to fold as it adjusted the mirror glass back and forth.
For some reason it was struggling, but finally folded..
I hate when I accidentally hit the button.. then have to wait and hit the button again to unfold them.
The last time I hit the button, it took like 10 seconds to fold as it adjusted the mirror glass back and forth.
For some reason it was struggling, but finally folded..
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
No compatibility issues at all. I went from standard mirrors to powerful. Swapped modules and everything still worked as it should. You can still use your original module if you just unplug the mirrors from it. That should stop the powerfold from working--iirc--Unless you have the led signals in it, I'm not sure if those would still work or not.
Throttle body woes.
After 5 1/2 hours driving, a reduced power mode occurred limiting speed to about 35mph while on the freeway. I took the first possible exit with the engine light leading the way. Checked for codes, only P2101. Rare for a 2004 Tahoe said the code reader, but it offered a possible solution. Disconnect battery for 5 minutes, reconnect battery, turn key on for a couple minutes but do not start. Turn key off, wait and then start. Viola! Engine light gone, and engine revs freely.
Back on the freeway for two miles and P2101 returns with friends P1516, P0120, P0220. OK fine. At this point I'm 5 miles out and no longer on the freeway, limp mode it is to get to my destination.
After a cool down I tried several relearn procedures for throttle actuator, throttle pedal position and clearing module errors. No dice. Pulled the air inlet and noted butterfly was slightly open but snapped shut when touched.
Replaced throttle body unit and all is good.
After 5 1/2 hours driving, a reduced power mode occurred limiting speed to about 35mph while on the freeway. I took the first possible exit with the engine light leading the way. Checked for codes, only P2101. Rare for a 2004 Tahoe said the code reader, but it offered a possible solution. Disconnect battery for 5 minutes, reconnect battery, turn key on for a couple minutes but do not start. Turn key off, wait and then start. Viola! Engine light gone, and engine revs freely.
Back on the freeway for two miles and P2101 returns with friends P1516, P0120, P0220. OK fine. At this point I'm 5 miles out and no longer on the freeway, limp mode it is to get to my destination.
After a cool down I tried several relearn procedures for throttle actuator, throttle pedal position and clearing module errors. No dice. Pulled the air inlet and noted butterfly was slightly open but snapped shut when touched.
Replaced throttle body unit and all is good.
mikez71
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Replaced my front rotors and pads with bosch parts. Old pads were thin and had some cracks.
I was planning to do the wheel bearings while I was there, but I could not get one axle nut off.
Seems one wheel bearing was replaced, and they must have impacted the axle nut real good.
Breaker bar extended to 3' with a steel floorjack handle, still nothing.. (Medium torque milwaukee impact obviously fell short)
Maybe I'll try adding another 2.5' handle section.. But it was flexing and I'm worried I'll break the breaker..
Made me wish I had a 3/4" breaker/socket.. I couldn't detect any bearing play anyhow, should have saved my money!
Still get a little chirp now and then on brake application, but no more squealing.
Hopefully it's the rears.. Though I did grease sliding parts, I forget to grease the piston face or retainer clip to bracket..
The slide pins on the side with replaced bearing had some fretting..
I hate it when people WAY overtighten stuff..
I was planning to do the wheel bearings while I was there, but I could not get one axle nut off.
Seems one wheel bearing was replaced, and they must have impacted the axle nut real good.
Breaker bar extended to 3' with a steel floorjack handle, still nothing.. (Medium torque milwaukee impact obviously fell short)
Maybe I'll try adding another 2.5' handle section.. But it was flexing and I'm worried I'll break the breaker..
Made me wish I had a 3/4" breaker/socket.. I couldn't detect any bearing play anyhow, should have saved my money!
Still get a little chirp now and then on brake application, but no more squealing.
Hopefully it's the rears.. Though I did grease sliding parts, I forget to grease the piston face or retainer clip to bracket..
The slide pins on the side with replaced bearing had some fretting..
I hate it when people WAY overtighten stuff..
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mikez71
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Found out my Motive pressure bleeder no longer works. Won't pressurize, pressure bypasses at the pump handle.
I used it one time! Will have to contact the company and see what they can do for me.
I thought I was finally making progress, but today the "battery not charging" message popped up a couple times..
It went away after a minute and I made my costco run.. Voltage seemed to always be ~13.8V.. Not sure what the deal was..
Also noticed my new (ebay used) dimmer doesn't work. Night mode, nothing lights up!
My old light switch had a burned out bulb, and nothing worked. (but my dash lights would stay on!)
I took the old one apart (nothing works) and it looks simple, so hopefully cleaning the contacts can fix it..
There was some white crusty residue on a couple contacts. Do I need special cleaner or can I just use rubbing alchohol? And would dielectric grease help or no?
Bulb started melting the clear plastic. (upper left corner)
Crusty white stuff on bottom right finger contacts.
More crusty white stuff on dimmer sliders plus black carbon tracks.
I used it one time! Will have to contact the company and see what they can do for me.
I thought I was finally making progress, but today the "battery not charging" message popped up a couple times..
It went away after a minute and I made my costco run.. Voltage seemed to always be ~13.8V.. Not sure what the deal was..
Also noticed my new (ebay used) dimmer doesn't work. Night mode, nothing lights up!
My old light switch had a burned out bulb, and nothing worked. (but my dash lights would stay on!)
I took the old one apart (nothing works) and it looks simple, so hopefully cleaning the contacts can fix it..
There was some white crusty residue on a couple contacts. Do I need special cleaner or can I just use rubbing alchohol? And would dielectric grease help or no?
Bulb started melting the clear plastic. (upper left corner)
Crusty white stuff on bottom right finger contacts.
More crusty white stuff on dimmer sliders plus black carbon tracks.
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mikez71
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Cleaned my dimmer switch contacts with rubbing alchohol and eraser.
Slathered a little dielectric grease on them. (Hopefully it doesn't leak in the heat..)
Fingers crossed it will work tonight. I think the white residue was dielectric grease as well.
When I took apart my used ebay switch, it had white stuff all over the headlamp circuits, which worked.
But not on the dimmer circuit, which didn't work. The opposite of my original switch.
Both had melted plastic by the bulb.
I know you can buy a new repro switch for less than $15, while just a light bulb costs $11.
But some aftermarket do not light up evenly, and some are cheaper looking.
Slathered a little dielectric grease on them. (Hopefully it doesn't leak in the heat..)
Fingers crossed it will work tonight. I think the white residue was dielectric grease as well.
When I took apart my used ebay switch, it had white stuff all over the headlamp circuits, which worked.
But not on the dimmer circuit, which didn't work. The opposite of my original switch.
Both had melted plastic by the bulb.
I know you can buy a new repro switch for less than $15, while just a light bulb costs $11.
But some aftermarket do not light up evenly, and some are cheaper looking.
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NoReverseYukon
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Don't use dielectric grease - it kills continuity : die electric.
mikez71
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Yea, but where the contact is should be wiped clear? I know we don't want conductive grease spread over the contacts?
I was going to order that deoxit everyone recommends, but didn't feel like waiting for it and spending $20 for this..
(Though I would like to have it on hand someday..)
Just tested the dimmer, works great! We'll see for how long..
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I bought a 100 of these from Ebay 5 years ago. I used them for the lights in my radio. They are still working but I don't drive it much. DM me your address and I can send a few your way.
Tonyrodz
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Does your oem switch have the little red and green lights in it?
mikez71
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Nope, just white... Oh that's what a few on ebay have, couple of little dot indicators?
Thanks Jimmyy!!
Are our voltage gauges buffered too? I plugged my cigarette voltmeter in, and after awhile it dropped from 14V to 13.5V, but still showed 14V on the cluster.
Maybe that time it said 'battery not charging' was lower than 13.5V... Will keep my eye on it...
Tonyrodz
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Yup, exactly.
There was a discussion about those little indicators awhile ago.
I have the oem switch in my 03, and it has them.
