Front Axle Seals replaced...still leaking

'09 Tahoe. Front Diff pumpkin gasket was leaking and the pinion seal as well.

Pulled the front diff, replaced all gaskets and pinion seal and while there, replaced both axle seals (were not leaking before).

I was very careful, took my time, cleaned everything and reinstall per the book.

I had the passenger side axle seal leaking after about 500 miles (bad leak..puddle), so I pulled the half shaft carrier housing and axle, replaced again.

That side stopped for now, but now the drivers side is ever-so-slightly leaking. I runs down to the drain plug and one single drip on the floor.

I used all GM parts for the repairs, both times, but the seals were a newer part number replacement from GM that looked slightly different but were a dimensional match.

So....questions, Has anyone experienced this before? If i want the drip on the drivers side to stop, do i have to pull the whole diff again? Can you replace under the vehicle?

Also, these seals seem to grip the axle shaft and the rubber spins inside the metal clad shell vs the shaft spinning in the rubber...is that correct?

Was I an idiot for replacing something that wasnt leaking? I thought I was doing the right thing, but this is turning into an exercise in futility.

Any prior experiences would help! Thanks!

GM Part numbers:
22761722 axle seal
12471590 pinion seal
15270969 case seal
15270970 half shaft housing seal

Tool(s) used when installing the seals? Did you use any lube on the inside lip, where the axle slides in?

OR VietVet said:

Tool(s) used when installing the seals? Did you use any lube on the inside lip, where the axle slides in?

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good questions! I used a flat machined 6" piece of UHMWPE rod that i cut to 3" thick. Basically a large round flat piece of plastic and a dead blow mallet.

And yes, I lubed the inside of the seals real good before sliding the axle shafts in...very carefully.

I'm dealing with the same problem after replacing the seals but mine are barely leaking so I'm not in a rush to deal with it. The only mistake I believe I made is that the axle shafts are supposed to be lubed up as well before sliding them in to prevent the shafts causing small tears on the seals. Everything else I did by the book.

slowride77 said:

good questions! I used a flat machined 6" piece of UHMWPE rod that i cut to 3" thick. Basically a large round flat piece of plastic and a dead blow mallet.

And yes, I lubed the inside of the seals real good before sliding the axle shafts in...very carefully.

Click to expand...

The seal install tool covered the whole seal outer diameter and seal was installed very evenly and not one side then the other?
Sealing surface, on the axle shaft, was smooth and no groove worn in it by old seal?

OR VietVet said:

The seal install tool covered the whole seal outer diameter and seal was installed very evenly and not one side then the other?
Sealing surface, on the axle shaft, was smooth and no groove worn in it by old seal?

Click to expand...

Yes, correct. Plastic install "tool" was way larger than seal and machined flat. Flat, even, slow install. I made sure I wasn't angled or anything.
Took my time and several whacks with dead blow on plastic tool to ensure a smooth install.
Yes, the sealing surface on the axle had typical surface rust, i cleaned with red scotch-brite and brake clean to a smooth shiny surface. No groove.
Lubed the shaft and seal before reinstalling.

I am OCD when it comes to my car and stuff like this. Engineer by trade. I triple check everything.

solli5pack said:

I'm dealing with the same problem after replacing the seals but mine are barely leaking so I'm not in a rush to deal with it. The only mistake I believe I made is that the axle shafts are supposed to be lubed up as well before sliding them in to prevent the shafts causing small tears on the seals. Everything else I did by the book.

Click to expand...

Did you install GM seals or after market? I am curious about the integrity of these new superseded part numbers...

22761722 GM. Got them off Amazon though, has me wondering .

Did u get and older seal? Is there a revised part number? But u can pull the spring oring that apllys pressure on the inner part of the seal and twist it into its self and it will grip tighter. Old trick

slowride77 said:

Also, these seals seem to grip the axle shaft and the rubber spins inside the metal clad shell vs the shaft spinning in the rubber...is that correct?

Click to expand...

I would look into that. I would think the seal would remain stationary and ride on the axle shaft. Haven't seen one like that but maybe it is a revision. You could call up a local dealer and go into the parts counter and get a look at it.

RTV on the perimeter of the seal when installing.

slowride77 said:

...
Also, these seals seem to grip the axle shaft and the rubber spins inside the metal clad shell vs the shaft spinning in the rubber...is that correct?

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No, not correct.

Sounds like you have the wrong seals. Sounds like too small of a diameter for the axle shaft, gripping so tight it broke the rubber seal loose from the metal casing.

GM parts counter ...

When I had my driver's side seal replaced, it needed a new stub axle due to the wear on the sealing surface.

Sounds to me like the axle vent is not venting so pressure builds up and the weakest link will leak. Make sure the vent is open from the diff all the way up to the upper fender. The aluminum diff builds up heat and the oil will build pressure and blow seals if not vented.

..... If the seal is spinning with the axle.... That is an obvious problem.

solli5pack said:

22761722 GM. Got them off Amazon though, has me wondering .

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That very well could be the issue lots of counterfeit products on Amazon

The vehicle application data on Amazon is frequently inaccurate. You'll note that ACDelco has a presence on Amazon, and they don't use the Amazon vehicle compatibility part of the website. You have to go to either RockAuto or a GM website to get your part number, then look up AC Delco part number on Amazon.... And make sure the seller is AC Delco and not some third party.

Amazon is hit and miss on quality. Rock Auto sells from established Automotive Warehouses so your odds of getting a good part are much bettter.

The older version seals for this differential like those used on the 95 model years use a standard point contact seal that will leave a groove in the axle at high mileage. The newer version of that seal is a much better design that does grip the axle and the sealing surface is inside the seal so you get no wear on the axle, all wear is internal on the seal. Similar to how they seal axle seals on Big Rigs. It is a much improved design.

If there are any grooves or nicks in the aluminum housing from you or some prior mechanic removing an old seal that needs to be cleaned up and can be filled with silicone so you don’t have a leak path once the new seal is installed.

At high miles the small bearing right behind the seal can be worn allowing excess movement in the shaft, that can cause early failure of these seals also.

The new design seal is a very robust design and should not leak properly installed. I have only used GM or National for this part. I have seen some leak but always due to the reasons reported above including plugged vent tubes.

Damn, learned something new. When did they upgrade the design on these? LOL, maybe that's why at 187,000 miles it's still not leaking....