RooTBeeRthe1st
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Updated my thread.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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@swathdiver might have these numbers
EDIT: maybe here? https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/u-joints-and-slip-yokes.157453/post-2026632
I think i need Precision #447 but no idea really. My drive shaft is a metal style. Not Aluminum. Wish @swathdiver would comment if he knows for sure what one is needed.
Got both diffs changed today and although not easy i got it done without help. Took 6 hours. New rear brake rotors/pads will be here tomorrow.
I do need to go to the wrecking yard and the plug for the front diff actuator and the one for the TC switch.
To test it out with all i need to do is get power to the actuator.
Whether going to go to sh*t Saturday and i can not get the TC swap done soon enough so that swap will be next week sometime.
Anyway that's where the swap is right now.
Got both diffs changed today and although not easy i got it done without help. Took 6 hours. New rear brake rotors/pads will be here tomorrow.
I do need to go to the wrecking yard and the plug for the front diff actuator and the one for the TC switch.
To test it out with all i need to do is get power to the actuator.
Whether going to go to sh*t Saturday and i can not get the TC swap done soon enough so that swap will be next week sometime.
Anyway that's where the swap is right now.
Holding up to the rear yoke the Precision #447 fits like a glove. Glad that worrisome drama is over with!
It ain't moving!Interesting jack stand setup.
Getting it done but man im telling ya after 6 months of not doing a lot because of weather doing this work will make you sore all over but at 64 1/2 i can still get it done.
Got the plug's i needed this morning. Free.
Almost done with phase 1.
Need to remove a finder liner to tighten an upper shock mount bolt i found loose.
Temp wire up the front actuator so it has 12V when the key is on and use a 15A fuse so it will drive.
Go for a short drive to see how it drives so i can compare it to later when i tune the trans for 4.10 gr.
I actually don't know much about tuning but i can tune basic stuff using Blue Cat.
Hopefully in the next few weeks i can get a couple of days of decent weather to get the TC changed.
Got the plug's i needed this morning. Free.
Almost done with phase 1.
Need to remove a finder liner to tighten an upper shock mount bolt i found loose.
Temp wire up the front actuator so it has 12V when the key is on and use a 15A fuse so it will drive.
Go for a short drive to see how it drives so i can compare it to later when i tune the trans for 4.10 gr.
I actually don't know much about tuning but i can tune basic stuff using Blue Cat.
Hopefully in the next few weeks i can get a couple of days of decent weather to get the TC changed.
mikez71
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Dang Grandpa! You're booking right along..
I just removed a radiator today.. didn't feel like struggling with the heater T's yet..
Taking a break, but it's supposed to rain next 3 days..
So I guess this radiator install is going to take me about a week!
I just removed a radiator today.. didn't feel like struggling with the heater T's yet..
Taking a break, but it's supposed to rain next 3 days..
So I guess this radiator install is going to take me about a week!
I'm hoping we get some good thunder & lightening tomorrow!
The Altamont always messes things up here though
if we ever go to nuclear war at least I should get taken out quick, Livermore labs is a prime target. 27 miles away.
for those that don't know lawrence livermore labs and los alamos are where the magic happens
The Altamont always messes things up here though
if we ever go to nuclear war at least I should get taken out quick, Livermore labs is a prime target. 27 miles away.
for those that don't know lawrence livermore labs and los alamos are where the magic happens
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lowh07
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Has anyone put QA1 struts in one of these? I'm gonna try it. They're technically for silverados, and they haven't tested them on a Tahoe, but they think there's a great chance of them working well. Fully adjustable rebound/compression and the easy height adjustment is sweet too.
My Belltech ones are completely shot. I've probably had them 10 years. I think I'm just riding on the springs essentially. Going over the tiniest bump or around a curve causes rubbing. Even braking a little hard causes the front to dive enough to rub. Doing the rears also and they're fully adjustable too. Should also be nice for drag racing...
Just unsure about the fitment and the ride height. They'll give a drop of 1-3" with stock spindles or 3-5" with drop spindles. I'm technically at 2.5 but maybe mine have settled or something. It's always looked lower than 2.5 to me. If it does drop it an extra 1/2" I guess I'll just need to come down more in the rear lol
My Belltech ones are completely shot. I've probably had them 10 years. I think I'm just riding on the springs essentially. Going over the tiniest bump or around a curve causes rubbing. Even braking a little hard causes the front to dive enough to rub. Doing the rears also and they're fully adjustable too. Should also be nice for drag racing...
Just unsure about the fitment and the ride height. They'll give a drop of 1-3" with stock spindles or 3-5" with drop spindles. I'm technically at 2.5 but maybe mine have settled or something. It's always looked lower than 2.5 to me. If it does drop it an extra 1/2" I guess I'll just need to come down more in the rear lol
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LSCALADE
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Swapped in the 3rd brake light and this is the end result.
Success!! Mostly.
Before adjusting for the new GR the only difference i really noticed was it seemed to shift a little earlier than normal and the speedo was off about 10 mph.
After adjusting the GR to 4.10 it shifts pretty good and it feels good. Acceleration is WAY better, love it.
Problem now is i can not figure out how to get the speedo to read right. It reads 6 MPH fast comparing to GPS. I have tried the gear/tire wizard in HP Tuners. Does not help.
I'm not sure how to fix that.
Can someone help me out with that?
Before adjusting for the new GR the only difference i really noticed was it seemed to shift a little earlier than normal and the speedo was off about 10 mph.
After adjusting the GR to 4.10 it shifts pretty good and it feels good. Acceleration is WAY better, love it.
Problem now is i can not figure out how to get the speedo to read right. It reads 6 MPH fast comparing to GPS. I have tried the gear/tire wizard in HP Tuners. Does not help.
I'm not sure how to fix that.
Can someone help me out with that?
we got a little bit last night, looked cool lighting up the clouds
Reading the HPT forum i found a post saying to mess with the Pulses per mile setting.
The thread ended there so no more info. Is this the correct way to get the speedometer reading properly?
The thread ended there so no more info. Is this the correct way to get the speedometer reading properly?
RooTBeeRthe1st
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All I did was tell it tire size I thought...
google fu says
Manual Adjustments (Fine Tuning)
If your speedometer is still off by 2 or 3 MPH after using the wizard, you can manually adjust the VSS Pulses per Mile value:- To make the speedometer read HIGHER: Increase the Pulses per Mile number.
- To make the speedometer read LOWER: Decrease the Pulses per Mile number.
Mine is about 10 MPH off.
Thanks for posting that. Lets me know im on the right track.
Thanks for posting that. Lets me know im on the right track.
mikez71
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If you increase the pulses per mile, it would take more pulses to show the same speed. Therefore your speedo would read lower?
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NVM, I see now it shows PCM OUTPUT calibration.. I thought it was VSS INPUT..
Anyhow, let us know how it goes!
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are you sure you entered the tire outer diameter right?
Im sure.
I have been over it all at least 10 times before i learned about the pulses per mile adjustment.
The thing that stumps me is using the gear/tire tool in HP Tuners and the one in Blue Cat it is still wrong. Never had this problem before.
I'll load the new calibration in the morning and see how that does.
The only thing i can think of is maybe the tone ring has a different count between a 10 and 14 bolt but i have not checked that out.
I have been over it all at least 10 times before i learned about the pulses per mile adjustment.
The thing that stumps me is using the gear/tire tool in HP Tuners and the one in Blue Cat it is still wrong. Never had this problem before.
I'll load the new calibration in the morning and see how that does.
The only thing i can think of is maybe the tone ring has a different count between a 10 and 14 bolt but i have not checked that out.
