Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

Matthew Jeschke said:

Current cam list. I will try and just update this post as I go on.

Goal - Over landing slow speeds long distances over rough terrain / forest service roads, 5000+ mile road trips, towing C5 corvette to races. Hope to sacrifice no fun up top, but get good MPG and grunt down low. 6.0L in 2001 Tahoe w/ stock wheels and 3.73 gears.

Helpful websites

CONTENDER

• Comp Cams 54-414-11
  SPEC I/E: 216/220 @ 050; LSA 114; 525/532 w/ 1.7 factory rockers
  Reviewed? | Manufacturer Page HERE
  
  Spoke with comp cams representative. He said for a 6.0L this would be about the best cam to tow with and still have fun when not towing. He also said with tuning higher MPG could be had. My second question to him was about the tri-power (lower lift) cams. He said they'd just give power down low and sacrifice up high. Didn't comment much on XLR CC style steep ramp angles affecting valve train lift. Kind of dodged the question.

STILL RESEARCHING

• Brian Tooley Torque Truck Cam 30202111R1
  Cannot find review I watched was by Holdener | Manufacturer Page / Sales Page HERE
  Pros: Inexpensive, no loss down low gain up high
  Cons: mild gains
  
  
• Texas Speed Peformance TSP Stage 2 #25-TSPLL212218 LSA 114
  SPEC I/E: 212/218 @ 050; LSA 114; 550/550 W/ factory rockers?
  Review ? | Manufacturer Page HERE
  
  
• Vinci Custom Camshafts website is a PITA haha trying to figure out what they are selling but might be a top contender as they do custom. I sent them a message.
  
  
• Summit LS Pro Camshafts HERE
  Inexpensive, but don't seem to be quite as aggressive (lower lift etc.) However, maybe one will help me meet my goals and be good enough. Summit rep actually recommended an XFI comp cam 54-401-11 HERE

REMOVED FROM LIST

• Comp Cams 54-469-11
  TOO BIG
  SPEC I/E: 231/247 @ 050; LSA 113; 617/624 w/ 1.7 factory rocker.
  Reviewed HERE | Manufacturer Page HERE
  Pros: Power everywhere big w/ big gains down low.
  Cons: Really expensive & designed for newer rectangular port heads
  
  
• Trick Flow TrackMax #30602003 aka sloppy stage 2 cam
  TOO MUCH OVERLAP OPERATING RANGE SPEC'D FOR 2500+ RPM
  SPEC I/E: 228/230 @ 050; LSA 112; 585/585 w/ 1.7 factory rockers
  Reviewed HERE & HERE | Manufacturer Page HERE | Sold HERE
  Pros: Inexpensive, reviews claim power up across entire range
  Cons: Suggests 10.5:1 compression ratio my build is 10.0:1
  
  
• LS9 factory camshaft (likely just rumor)
  JUST A RUMOR, DOESN'T SEEM TO BE RIGHT
  SPEC I/E: 211/230 @ 050; LSA 122.5; 562/562 w/ 1.7 factory rocker?
  Cannot find any review | Sold HERE
  Pros: Very inexpensive. Told but cannot confirm, builds power everywhere?
  Cons: Cam sensor has to be relocated to timing cover.

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OVERLAP CALCULATOR

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Great info I've really been enjoying this thread and hope others will come to explore and learn as well.

I vote 100% for that top cam, if I'm not mistaken that was almost exactly my first recommendation but on a different LSA 110 vs 114. I think the 114lsa is going to help save some MPG with more negative overlap and not make it so choppy at idle. It may sound close to stock at idle, I think the low lift will keep it from stressing the valve train so much and make it safe to run behives. I also think the lower lift is smart because stock heads really don't benefit much with an increased lift. If I were to recam my Tahoe this would likely be top of the list for me as well.

Thats my 2 cents which is worth about that


P.S. glad you ditched the SS2 I don't think you would like it for this application.

I spoke with Roger Vinci. He recommended their MT 562 grind, "Towing & Performance Stg2". He said he thought it would work better than the Comp Cam 54-414-11 for my towing and slower off road driving. They sell a dual valve spring kit for it and would cut pushrods to the length I need. Not exactly cheap but a little more hands on and seems to be a pretty solid combo. $400 for cam $249.99 dual valve springs and retainers $139.99 for pushrods. Cam spec below:

Assuming speced intake / exhaust
Duration @ 050: 210/222
Lift 553/561
LSA 115
4A - not sure what 4a is a spec for? Think maybe something with ramp angle?

He says I could expect 65 to 75 + HP and Torque with that setup... And mentions operating range is 1800 to 6200 RPM.

Lifters are in. These make the factory ones look a bit chinsey. They are the 2116LSR johnsons. I opted for a link bar instead of the plastic trays and LS7 design. They made a cheaper non linkbar verson of these but I found a deal on these. they are lightly used so wish me luck :|

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I just got off the phone with Roger Vinci. I think custom ordering is really the only way to go. He was SUPER nice. Like talking to the owner of the business, literally, and has crazy trade knowledge. He's building me a cam based off one of his grinds to meet my specific needs. His springs are also custom made for the cam. Pretty bad ass. Another question nobody could quite answer for me is what metal is used. They still use US Steel / 5150. He said the lobes last MUCH longer than the other blanks companies use. I think they machine it all down from rifle stock. I could be a bit off as I didn't quite catch it all... But sounds like they cut NO corners and build a high quality piece.

Curious about harmonic balancer (if you call it that, I think this crank is internally balanced?). I recall my LT1 build, I did an electric water pump and lightweight crank pulley. I wonder if I shouldn't snag a different pulley... I do use a LOT of the power from the alternator and not sure how much if any it reduces performance of AC.

Matthew Jeschke said:

Curious about harmonic balancer (if you call it that, I think this crank is internally balanced?). I recall my LT1 build, I did an electric water pump and lightweight crank pulley. I wonder if I shouldn't snag a different pulley... I do use a LOT of the power from the alternator and not sure how much if any it reduces performance of AC.

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Engine is internally balanced, so the crank pulley can go on in any position. I replaced mine since the rubber was cracked and it may have been causing a weird vibe around 1700RPM. If you mean a smaller underdrive pulley- don't bother.

Yeah i got an aluminum underdrive pulley for my LT1 I built. I never recharged the AC on that car though.

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I'd bet that your purpose and driving style for the Tahoe is vastly different than that for whatever the LT1 was/is in. For mostly low-speed off-roading, slowing everything down makes no sense.

That makes since. The Z28 was for melting tires haha, awesome car. Sad I sold it.

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What wideband setup is best or at least reasonible to use. I know I want bosch 4.9 sensors as they don't require air calibration.

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