High idle switch?

I appreciate the ideas, but I think we're really losing track of the goal here, which was recommendations for brands or ideas on how to make a high idle switch that would operate outside of any tuning - which is a bit cheesy. Unfortunately, any ideas for electric heaters are going to be pretty limited with a stock alternator at idle speed and won't really operate under enough power.

Running some quick math, I'm getting around 7kw output capability of the stock heater, with both front and rear on full blast. To do the equivalent on our 12v system, would need 540 amps of power. That would need 3 preferably 4 alternators to run the thing at idle - just not feasible.

Though now that I type this, I got another idea. I can set idle speed based on a/c on or off. Now I know the a/c won't operate below 36f, but what I don't know is how the vehicle handles the electronics and if that would cause it to go into that high idle mode without the compressor engaging? I don't want to force the compressor on at these temps to accomplish that. That's just asking for trouble as the refrigerant is apt to liquify and blowing up a compressor doesn't found fun.



Now, after some digging, I was able to find a pinout for the accelerator pedal. Can't find anything else on it though. Not really enough info be useful - not sure if it uses a potentiometer or a rotary encoder to sense position.

I was going to say that since our throttles are drive by wire there could be a solution by tapping into the gas pedal wires to give it a slightly different voltage via a switch or knob

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

You can get this:

http://www.americanpowerinc.com/high-idle-controls/#product-tab-description

We use something similar in the Fire Department Tahoe's

Lt Belspur said:

You can get this:

http://www.americanpowerinc.com/high-idle-controls/#product-tab-description

We use something similar in the Fire Department Tahoe's

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Interesting product.

Playin' the old guy card, how many of you are old enough to remember the early "cruise controls"? Mount a small box under the dash with a cable to the accelerator pedal. Get up to speed, pull the button on the box to hold tension on the cable, and it acted as a throttle control. Cheesy but somewhat effective. We had one on our '66 Ford Country Sedan for those long trips.

Fless said:

Interesting product.

Playin' the old guy card, how many of you are old enough to remember the early "cruise controls"? Mount a small box under the dash with a cable to the accelerator pedal. Get up to speed, pull the button on the box to hold tension on the cable, and it acted as a throttle control. Cheesy but somewhat effective. We had one on our '66 Ford Country Sedan for those long trips.

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Lol, old man!

Tonyrodz said:

Lol, old man!

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HEY! I resemble that.

I’m in Canada and it regularly gets down to -30 celsius. A lot of people use “winter fronts” in the winter months. They are like a insulated vinyl blanket that covers the grill. They also come in stainless steel but aren’t as effective. They work like the cardboard idea and block the cold air from passing through the radiator. I don’t use one on my 07 yukon but never have a heat problem. I would test your coolant and make sure you have a good mixture. Also the thermostat could cause this if it’s not closing and circulating too much coolant.

07yukonguy said:

I’m in Canada and it regularly gets down to -30 celsius. A lot of people use “winter fronts” in the winter months. They are like a insulated vinyl blanket that covers the grill. They also come in stainless steel but aren’t as effective. They work like the cardboard idea and block the cold air from passing through the radiator. I don’t use one on my 07 yukon but never have a heat problem. I would test your coolant and make sure you have a good mixture. Also the thermostat could cause this if it’s not closing and circulating too much coolant.

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Both tstat and coolant are good. Whole cooling system on my rig is in good condition - I take pretty good care of it. Just a case of heat in heat out. Engine at idle doesn't produce enough heat to run front and rear at full bore.

SnowDrifter said:

Anyone make one that works with our electronic throttle bodies? Would prefer a switch over just raising idle w/ a programmer. Goal of said switch is to provide faster warm up time in winter, and better heater performance when parked. If I walk in the store w/ truck running and heater full ast when it's cold out (like sub 15 degrees) the heaters cooling ability exceeds the engines heat output and the thing begins to cool down! I just want more heat output. It can be a bit if a pita at times when the snow melts then water re freezes in the door seams and I can't get in. It might see use later for driving stereo equipment but for now, I just want heat output

Or, if anyone has any slick ideas on how to cobble one together, I'm all ears

I found this place called off road engineering but never received a response

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I use a OBDLink MX bluetooth dongle that plugs into the OBD port for diagnostics and stuff. I recently found the app obdCANeX ($4.99 on google play store) that'll connect to that adapter and start/stop, lock/unlock doors. It also has an assist mode that will raise idle rpm for when helping jump start another vehicle. You can choose 1000 or 2000, and also has a setting to turn on or off the cooling fan.

It only works with the OBDLink MX bluetooth or wifi dongle.

gooffeyguy said:

I use a OBDLink MX bluetooth dongle that plugs into the OBD port for diagnostics and stuff. I recently found the app obdCANeX ($4.99 on google play store) that'll connect to that adapter and start/stop, lock/unlock doors. It also has an assist mode that will raise idle rpm for when helping jump start another vehicle. You can choose 1000 or 2000, and also has a setting to turn on or off the cooling fan.

It only works with the OBDLink MX bluetooth or wifi dongle.

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Cool idea but it only seems to work on 2014 and up. App appears depreciated too