High idle switch?

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SnowDrifter

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Anyone make one that works with our electronic throttle bodies? Would prefer a switch over just raising idle w/ a programmer. Goal of said switch is to provide faster warm up time in winter, and better heater performance when parked. If I walk in the store w/ truck running and heater full ast when it's cold out (like sub 15 degrees) the heaters cooling ability exceeds the engines heat output and the thing begins to cool down! I just want more heat output. It can be a bit if a pita at times when the snow melts then water re freezes in the door seams and I can't get in. It might see use later for driving stereo equipment but for now, I just want heat output

Or, if anyone has any slick ideas on how to cobble one together, I'm all ears

I found this place called off road engineering but never received a response
 

swathdiver

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Did GM ever offer this on the GMT800s? The GMT900s had an option for a PTO with high idle but could not be retrofitted, much like the ITBC.
 

iamdub

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I don't know how deep you can get with tuning. But when custom tuning the PCM, can the fan tables be edited to raise the temp at which they're activated when the IAT detects inlet temps of a particular threshold? This way, during excessively cold weather, the fans wouldn't come on at their normal set temp so the engine would get warmer. During warm weather, the PCM would activate the fans at their normal temp.

Or, if that's not an option, can the idle tables be edited to higher or lower based on IATs?

Now I'm wondering what would be more effective: Reduced airflow through the radiator or higher idle. I'm thinking reduced airflow cuz I don't see the engine creating much more heat unless the idle was raised significantly.
 
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go old school and cover part of the radiator. I remember years ago cutting a piece of cardboard to the right size that gave me the results I wanted. When winter came I would slip it between the radiator and AC condenser to block part of radiator so it would run warmer/faster
 

89Suburban

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go old school and cover part of the radiator. I remember years ago cutting a piece of cardboard to the right size that gave me the results I wanted. When winter came I would slip it between the radiator and AC condenser to block part of radiator so it would run warmer/faster

x2.
 

Doubeleive

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I would be the one to probably just stick a wedge or brick on the pedal, or just install the block heater and plug it in at night there only like $50.00 online if you didn't get one stock
 
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SnowDrifter

SnowDrifter

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I don't know how deep you can get with tuning. But when custom tuning the PCM, can the fan tables be edited to raise the temp at which they're activated when the IAT detects inlet temps of a particular threshold? This way, during excessively cold weather, the fans wouldn't come on at their normal set temp so the engine would get warmer. During warm weather, the PCM would activate the fans at their normal temp.

Or, if that's not an option, can the idle tables be edited to higher or lower based on IATs?

Now I'm wondering what would be more effective: Reduced airflow through the radiator or higher idle. I'm thinking reduced airflow cuz I don't see the engine creating much more heat unless the idle was raised significantly.

My tuner doesn't allow me to adjust idle based on coolant temp, unfortunately. I can set a static idle adjustment based on in/out of gear, but that's a wee bit cheesy. Going from 1400rpm idle and clashing into gear is just begging to break stuff in the trans *cough* reverse *cough*

More on the reduced airflow below

go old school and cover part of the radiator. I remember years ago cutting a piece of cardboard to the right size that gave me the results I wanted. When winter came I would slip it between the radiator and AC condenser to block part of radiator so it would run warmer/faster
Good idea, though that's not really my issue. I have efans, they're set for 210 low and 214 high. Problem is, when I'm parked, the engine just doesn't produce enough heat at idle to run the heaters full bore when it's cold out. Fans are off - it's just a matter of heat produced vs. heat extracted through the heater cores. Coolant temp in that scenario will drop/taper off to 140-150 degrees. T-stat, water pump both function as intended. It's just a heat in - heat out thing

I would be the one to probably just stick a wedge or brick on the pedal, or just install the block heater and plug it in at night there only like $50.00 online if you didn't get one stock
Yeah I've entertained a block heater before. My problem, however, is I park outside in a lot. There's no access to power. I've looked into solar panels (not enough oomph) and a fuel powered recirc/heating pump, but those are more intended for semi trucks and whatnot. Most run on diesel. I'd need to install a reservoir for such, run it's own power system + battery so it wouldn't drain my starting battery, plus the cost of the system itself. I contacted a few companies for price quotes on the system. The thing would be ~$2500 when said and done. I don't see an ROI for that one, unfortunately.

I have an extendo rod to hold the revs up for doing fuel system cleanings. I'm just hesitant to walk away with it attached. It braces against the steering wheel. Vibrate down, or even worse someone hits my car in the parking lot and ***** the wheels - thing would be bouncing off the rev limiter until I walk back out. Not really wanting to risk sending a rod into orbit for this scenario
 
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How bout just using a 12v heater you can plug into the lighter receptacle while you're in the store to help keep the heat up inside so doors don't freeze closed?

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 
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SnowDrifter

SnowDrifter

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How bout just using a 12v heater you can plug into the lighter receptacle while you're in the store to help keep the heat up inside so doors don't freeze closed?

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
Not enough power. ~100w is about the most I can pull from the 12v outlet long term before the connection type used by said outlet starts to become an issue. And 100w is a wash. I picked up a 140w unit, tried it, binned it. Thing was useless. Could only run for 5 minutes before heat at the 12v outlet began to be an issue. And would only serve to defrost a few square inches of the windshield during that time. 2-3kw would be better, but at idle, I'm really limited to <800w due to alternator output capabilities, then we're back to revving, which would negate the need for a heater anyway LOL
 

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