My 1998 2-door build is done - Pics, impressions (and need some input)

I cant wait to get my hydroboost installed, pulled it out of a astro van. Tell me about this power steering valve. Whay are you doing that?

The steering is pinky steer, and somewhat wobbly at speed. I need to reduce the steering effort but I don't want to reduce power to the booster. My first plan was to use a bills hot rod kit to reduce the pressure inside the pump but that doesn't solve problem with the booster pressure.

I also got a u joint to replace the rag joint in the steering shaft and will install it at the same time. There is really nothing else to possibly replace or do to the steering after that.

I am also coming around to the realization that I need to put a different cam in to have the truck really suit me. I think I am going to start a different post on this topic.


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Why did you choose to use the 454SS steering box? I think its a quick ratio box. Maybe going to a stock type unit for your truck would help reduce the steering response a bit??

YAMBAG said:

Why did you choose to use the 454SS steering box? I think its a quick ratio box. Maybe going to a stock type unit for your truck would help reduce the steering response a bit??

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I actually wanted a more responsive steering system so I chose the quick ratio box. There is a difference between "resistance" and responsiveness. I got to drive a newer 911S on Sunday and the steering is incredibly responsive and has nearly the resistance of manual steer.

I don't expect it to be like a 911, but I know I can do a lot better. I have't gotten the above mentioned work done yet which I will explain below.

So I ordered an Autocal from Blackbear and I was able to figure out that I had a bad O2 sensor and a bad MAP sensor. The combination of which has made the truck run like crap and get about 7.5 mpg. I think the MAP sensor died a slow intermittent death with an intermittent CEL to go with it, starting the very day I got the tune done, which made it hard to diagnose. The O2 sensor I changed at suggestion of Justin and BB during the tune, but it was either defective or it didn't work because I put dielectric grease on the connection which I read online is a no no.

Here are the MAP sensors, old was was total trash. Idle is already way better. New O2 sensor comes tomorrow. I am really looking forward to being back to full power. Will report back.

I want a 2 door so bad...

I have a 97 2 door 4x4 with a mild build vortec 350 (CC 08-501-8 cam with supporting head work), OBX stainless headers, 3" true duals, a BB tune, and "built" 4l60e, and I'm experiencing what I think is a smiliar trans issues as you. However, I went from 3.42 to 4.10 gears front and rear. I also find that it shifts from 2 to 3 then almost instantly into 4th. I also find that while whether cruising at 45-50 or 70-75, even a slight tap on the pedal instantly makes the TC unlock, just for a second before quickly locking up again.

Your hard start issue....I also have a similar issue. When it's a very hot day, and I have driven it for a while and park it, it is a real pain to get started again without giving it a little gas. My rear 2 O2s are also deleted, and the front two were new when I did the motor about 4k miles ago.I wonder if one of my O2s are bad. I have never replaced my MAP sensor, so I wonder if I should.

I'm also having a slight misfire at idle on cylinders 2 and 4 that nobody can figure out, and I'm leaning towards a valve train issue (but I'm REALLY hoping it's not since the head work was done by a reputable builder with all new parts).

Upper tanker said:

What trouble codes are you getting?

Your hard start issue....I also have a similar issue. When it's a very hot day, and I have driven it for a while and park it, it is a real pain to get started again without giving it a little gas.

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If you have a scanner, see what the coolant temperature sensor is reporting. It’s the one by the thermostat.

It should be reading close to ambient when cold and around the thermostat setpoint when hot. If it is reporting some real oddball temperature, the sensor may be flaking out and fooling the computer into calling for too much fuel when starting.

Holding the gas to the floor while cranking is sometimes a remedy as this puts it into “clear flood” mode, temporarily stopping injector flow.



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east302 said:

If you have a scanner, see what the coolant temperature sensor is reporting. It’s the one by the thermostat.

It should be reading close to ambient when cold and around the thermostat setpoint when hot. If it is reporting some real oddball temperature, the sensor may be flaking out and fooling the computer into calling for too much fuel when starting.

Holding the gas to the floor while cranking is sometimes a remedy as this puts it into “clear flood” mode, temporarily stopping injector flow.



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I do have a scanner, but not with me. I do have one of the Bluetooth OBD2 things that I could check it with. I paid the extra money for all of the extra PIDs. So, that would just be the engine temperature, correct?