Replaced front stabilizer bar links

[Passin Thru]

Was a very easy job. Old ones were destroyed.

It started when my wife was complaining about a popping/clunking noise. Upon inspecting the factory links, the bushings were dry rotted (the ones that were still there).

I bought NAPA replacements (Moog makes these for NAPA) and saved some money.

Very easy job.

If anyone is wondering, the factory links use a 15mm bolt/nut. The replacements use a 14mm bolt/nut


NAPA P/N: 265-1206

 

[NathanJax]

awesome. I did mine about a year ago. I think anyone with an 07-08 probably needs replaced (and lowered ones need the shorter ones)

 

[Goodinblack]

I did mine with energy suspensions too

Got them from az

 

[osidesurfer365]

Does it improve ride quality?


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[Goodinblack]

Does it improve ride quality?


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They don't kick in till you swerve or corner fast

 

[osidesurfer365]

They don't kick in till you swerve or corner fast

Good enough for me. I'm not much of a grease monkey, do I need a jack to install? What other little parts like this should I look into replacing?

 

[shundal]

my stock bushings looked very similar before i changed them.

 

[Passin Thru]

Good enough for me. I'm not much of a grease monkey, do I need a jack to install? What other little parts like this should I look into replacing?

A jack, jackstand (for safety), 22mm socket or 4-way for lugs, 15mm combo wrench, 15mm socket (in your preferred drive size), ratchet (in your preferred drive size), penetrating spray (in your favorite flavor), replacement links, and time to remove and install.

My replacements required a 14mm combo wrench and 14mm socket.

Optional is an impact (makes life easy)

Added p/n to first post!

 

[shundal]

I put mine on Ramps and kept the wheels on. Just undid the links moved the sway bar down a bit and swapped in the new ones and bolted it back together.

 

[Passin Thru]

I put mine on Ramps and kept the wheels on. Just undid the links moved the sway bar down a bit and swapped in the new ones and bolted it back together.

Definitely a viable option.

All the extra room to work with sitting up instead of lying down was nice though. Although I did check them once the truck was back on all fours and it didn't seem like it would be too bad to do it that way.

 

[08grey]

I have a new set I want to cut shorter to accommodate the 2" lowering spindle. Anyone run shorter links in the front?

 

[osidesurfer365]

Thanks for all the great input everyone. Putting a list of small parts to replace today and ordering it tomorrow.

 

[Passin Thru]

I have a new set I want to cut shorter to accommodate the 2" lowering spindle. Anyone run shorter links in the front?

It's one solid bolt. Not sure how you're going to cut it.

I think anyone with an 07-08 probably needs replaced (and lowered ones need the shorter ones)

Last sentence^^^

---------- Post added at 05:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:46 PM ----------

Thanks for all the great input everyone. Putting a list of small parts to replace today and ordering it tomorrow.

Have you checked your a/c belt and it's respective tensioner lately?

Main belt, tensioner, and idler pulley?

Air filter, cleaned throttle body?

All simple things anyone can do (when I say anyone, I mean most that have the "want" can)

 

[08grey]

There is a sleeve in the center. If you shorten the sleeve you shorten the length.

 

[Passin Thru]

I see what you're saying.

 

[07Burb]

Nice! I need to do this soon myself both front and back

 

[ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)]

does it help any with the inherent body roll

 

[Clean07Burb]

There is a sleeve in the center. If you shorten the sleeve you shorten the length.

If you shorten the sleeve you may end up running out of threads on the bolt as I'm almost positive the threads on the end of the bolt aren't very long and with the sleeve shortened you won't be able to tighten the link assembly properly. ie: your nut will bottom out against the shoulder of the bolt before it starts to draw everything together. Easy solution is to get a shorter Grade 8 bolt. If you shorten the new link by 2" to account for the 2" drop spindles then get a 2" shorter bolt.

 

[fiatdale]

I may be wrong, but since you lower with spindles, the lower control arm stays in the same place, so the angle is still correct with a factory length link. The rears need to be shorter because the axle physically moves up, so the sway bar drops. I wouldn't think you'd need to shorten the front. Tony, you have any input?

 

[shundal]

I'm running the Energy 4 5/8 to 5 1/8 adjustable sway bar end links up front with belltech 2 inch drop spindle and DJM front sway bar and they fit perfect.

Part number 9.8165R