Any interest in 4wd front coilovers to replace tbars?

[Atomic]

So I took some measurements, for the guys that want to do the stud top, if you get some sort of thick washer or spacer that is 3/8" ID and 1 1/8" OD I think you can use the stud top directly with my upper bracket without messing with a bushing getting crushed.

Let me know if there is any interest and I can have some made, probably 1/4" thick.

 

[Bomba02]

So you don't think a bushing is needed for the stud top? Could I plan to do the same without using your top bracket? I know the washer would be different. Just curious. Thanks billy

 

[Atomic]

I dont think its really needed no. The hole in the hoop is too big amf would need a washer regardless. My brackets should match the angle of the hoop so it should be the same but i like my brackets bettet if you go this route since i know its a flat surface to ride on.

 

[ThatDudeOrion]

So I've been wondering a lot about this myself, I just ordered up all my stuff yesterday, and I decided to go with the DS303's and the stud top adapters. My primary goal is to make the suspension work really well, not necessarily be super low. I mean I don't want huge gaps either, but If the 303's with the stud top don't get me low enough, I'll go to thinner body mounts and or spindles and try to maintain the most shock/wheel travel I can.

The main difference I can see between the stud top mount and the pro-comp adapter is that while the pro comp adapter is hard mounted to the shock hoop, the upper shock eyelet can still pivot on the adapter itself, while also pivoting on your mounts as well. Versus using the stud top mount on the shock itself, which takes that upper pivot point away. The thing is, I don't know if there really needs to be any pivoting/deflection in the upper mount for the shock to survive. As the LCA moves through its arc and the shock lengthens and shortens, is it sufficient to have the only bottom shock mount swiveling? I know the OEM solution has the fixed upper mount, but that probably has some pretty squishy rubber isolating it, and more importantly it's not bearing the weight of the whole vehicle. On the flip side, the stock Tundra suspension looks a lot like what Atomic has created, and from the pics I can find it is using a fixed upper mount for the coilovers as well. Which makes me think ours could work with a fixed mount too. Also looks like MacPherson struts use a fixed upper mount as well. Just food for thought I guess... I'm pretty sure a solid upper mount would work, I just don't know if I want to risk $320 in shocks to find out, lol.

 

[Atomic]

I dont have my truck at the moment, but like you mentioned I dont think the angle of the shock changes much as the LCA moves through its motion. You can test this out yourself by installing the shock without the spring and moving the LCA by hand. I would take pics of it at full compression, and full extension and compare the angle the shock makes.

 

[Tahoewhat]

So I took some measurements, for the guys that want to do the stud top, if you get some sort of thick washer or spacer that is 3/8" ID and 1 1/8" OD I think you can use the stud top directly with my upper bracket without messing with a bushing getting crushed.

Let me know if there is any interest and I can have some made, probably 1/4" thick.

Disregard my comment in my thread. lol.

So your saying use only a washer in place of the bushing? Would that be ******* the shock?

 

[Atomic]

No harder than the procomp mount. The shock should never bottom out, and if it does thats what the soft bumpstop is for.

And yes just a washer so the stud wont go through the hole since the base isnt very big.

 

[digitalfiend]

The first prototype set of my heavy duty washers and bushings is done. These are for the stock upper mounts and they're slated to go to 04blackout:

I'm cross-posting this to make sure those interested see it. I've been on a hiatus from posting on here because I've been going mad inside my lab trying to get these washers machined right. This 4340 steel is pretty darned tough. This is good once it's put into place, but it makes machining it and cutting it *very* difficult. I have a small lathe and basic tooling and it has ruined just about every HSS lathe tool that I've thrown at it. It tends to extremely HOT while it's being machined...once it heats up it ruins anything you throw at it until it cools down. I finally tried out some carbide cutting tips and that seemed to be the best. So now I believe I have a way to produce many of these on a small scale.

If 04blackout is ready to go then I'll get this first set to him and have him test them. Once we work out any kinks then I'll produce more of these and they'll be for sale in my own thread like Atomic did with his mounts.

 

[Atomic]

I can go ahead and tell you that washer is going to be way too big OD wise. It will not fit in the shock pocket. You need one about half that size, in the 1.25" diameter range.

 

[digitalfiend]

I can go ahead and tell you that washer is going to be way too big OD wise. It will not fit in the shock pocket. You need one about half that size, in the 1.25" diameter range.

On the stock shock pocket they fit with no issues - there's even some wiggle room available. Since I only bought your lower mounts I can't confirm that they'll fit inside your top mounts, and this is one of the things I'll need some help testing.

The next set of bushings that I'm going to make will be the prototypes for your upper mounts. The bushings will be 2" in diameter and will be 0.5" thick. The washers are going to be 2.5" in diameter and 0.25" thick. Based on some of the details I've gathered these should fit fine in your upper mounts. Without having a set for yourself, can you tell if these will fit or will I need to go with different dimensions for your upper mounts?

 

[Atomic]

The largest you can fit in my upper mount is 1.25" diameter, this is of course having the stud bolt concentric with the hole opening. I am suprised your prototypes fit in the shock mount being that big, I figured they would hit the outer edge and push the hole too far inboard.

 

[digitalfiend]

The largest you can fit in my upper mount is 1.25" diameter, this is of course having the stud bolt concentric with the hole opening. I am suprised your prototypes fit in the shock mount being that big, I figured they would hit the outer edge and push the hole too far inboard.

When you say "your upper mount", do you mean the stock upper mount or the upper mount that you designed and sell?

If you're referring to your stock upper mounts then it may be that there's a difference between our stock upper shock mounts since your truck is 4wd and my Tahoe is 2wd?

 

[Atomic]

My upper bracket will only fit a 1.25" diameter piece because of the gussets on it, I am not sure what will fit in the pocket on the frame (dont have the truck around). I suspect its bigger but not sure big enough for a 2.5" diameter one.

 

[Atomic]

I got my washers done earlier than I thought, these should make it very easy to use the stud top without the bushing. You guys that have already bought stuff from me let me know if you want some and I will mail you pair out.

 

[Bomba02]

So you dont think theres a need for a bushing on the stud top. With having the lower bearing it should be able to move and the pivot of control arm which was mentioned. So I should be able to make a washer that will work with stock upper and use the stud top?
Getting close to order the rest of my parts woo hoo!!
thanks for putting up with all my question!!!!
Billy

 

[Tahoewhat]

I got my washers done earlier than I thought, these should make it very easy to use the stud top without the bushing. You guys that have already bought stuff from me let me know if you want some and I will mail you pair out.

Send em my way and i'll give them a try and see.

Not sure i fully understand the no bushing thing though, but why not, first to try the coil overs, what could go wrong right? ha ha..

 

[Atomic]

Why do you guys think there should be a bushing? The procomp mount doesnt use one. All the load should be support by the spring, so any force in that direction will compress the spring, so you dont need a little bushing there to absorb load. Obviously having bumpstops is important to prevent shock loading. You can still use the included bushing on top of the spring pocket for when you jack the truck up.

 

[Tahoewhat]

Why do you guys think there should be a bushing? The procomp mount doesnt use one. All the load should be support by the spring, so any force in that direction will compress the spring, so you dont need a little bushing there to absorb load. Obviously having bumpstops is important to prevent shock loading. You can still use the included bushing on top of the spring pocket for when you jack the truck up.

B/c GM told me to. ha ha..

There thats bumpstop word again. ha ha.

 

[YukonXL04]

I thought there needed to be a top bushing so the spring could pivot as the suspension travels.

 

[Atomic]

I recommend using the bushing on top so the stud can still pivot, but it would just shift the weight on the bottom against the washer if it needs to pivot. I made my lowers so it lines up with the factory shock, so it shouldnt need any off-angle adjustment. Im still keeping my eyes open for bearing options.