Gonna be putting on a mechanical gauge for my oil pressure tomorrow since my dash one is still crapping out. What position would be better for a good oil pressure reading? I was thinking of elliminating the pressure sender and the brass adapter all together, and feeding my line in there. Or possibly one of the block plugs down by the oil filter I hear? I might be mistaken, but I know there is a small threaded allen head plug down on the side of the block somewhere. Was also thinking of putting some sort of heat shrink or cover over the feed line to protect from heat or damage. Please give me some feedback on this guys because I haven't had to run one of these things before. By the way the truck is a 5.7 Vortec and thanks in advance!
Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge
- Thread starter 99'Yukon
- Start date
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retorq
Full Access Member
Isn't the oil pressure switch linked to the fuel pump somehow on the later model trucks?
Not really sure about that. I know that there is supposed to be a ground somewhere for the oil pressure sender, but have looked everywhere and do not see one. Was gonna just go ahead an put in a mechanical gauge just so can have peace of mind that I'm getting correct oil pressure.
95escahoe
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Pretty sure your right about that cause if the oil pressure gets too low the fuel pump shuts off to prevent anymore damage
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Gonna be putting the gauge on tomorrow to see what kind of readings I'll get. I do have a question though, I drove the truck about 100 miles today, and before I left and after cranking the truck everything seemed perfectly fine. When I got to my destination, I got out with the truck still running and in park to hear a sound that sounded awfullly familiar to that of an exhaust leak. Was thinking thats all it was, maybe a bolt came loose or something, but after getting under the truck while it was running it sounded more like it was coming from inside the bellhousing near the torque converter area. Does anyone have a clue of what this sound I am hearing might be or what could have caused this? The truck ran great the whole way, and still does. It is just strange...
retorq
Full Access Member
Loose TC bolt, tranny could be low and the pump could be dry, loose flywheel to crank bolt, could still be an exhaust leak ... bearing tick, oil pump, can be lots of stuff.
Were you the one that put in the new engine with a bad oil pressure gauge and ran it??
Were you the one that put in the new engine with a bad oil pressure gauge and ran it??
Don't get me too bad retorq lol, but yes I am the one. I have driven the truck give or take about 1,500 miles so far and that is only because it is my only means of transportation. I work 50+ hours a week and really have no choice =\ But many of the things you listed seem like they could be plausable. I know the fluid is at a good level because I checked it before I drove the 100 miles yesterday. Engine ran smooth the whole way and tranny shifted fine without any problems. I will make sure to go down the list you have provided to make sure everything is in order. Well, as far as the tranny goes I guess I could remove the inspection plate on the bellhousing and give it a listen while its running.
retorq
Full Access Member
If you didn't use loctite on the tranny bolts that is probably it, pull the cover and check, you would be able to see it pretty easy as well... If it was a flywheel bolt you won't be able to see that easily.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
not for 98-99 obs.
---------- Post added at 11:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:04 AM ----------
if doing a engine oil pressure sender and it is the only active one it should installed at the same place of the original. it is the direct reading from pump before hitting any bearings.
---------- Post added at 11:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:07 AM ----------
youtube it.
Well got the gauge all hooked up today and voila, right around 25psi while hot and at idle, and 55-60psi during moderate driving. Thank god I finally got that thing on to have peace of mind knowing that I'm running at correct oil pressure. As for the tranny noise, still haven't figured it out. Definitley coming from the flywheel/TC area and sounds more like a puff puff puff than a tick tick tick. I got up underneath after cranking it and put my hand flat on the bottom of the tranny pan. You could kind of feel a little something, but that could have just been from the TC rotating. If it helps any, the noise is a little bit more predominant in reverse. Also what do I look for when on youtube Sunlit? Thanks in advance!
97Tahoe2d4x
Member
I think Sunlit meant for you to video the motor running and upload it to Youtube so he can hear it to try n figure out what it is......
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SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
if louder in reverse then look for an exhaust leak at the manifold to converter pipe connections.
retorq
Full Access Member
If it's louder in reverse he needs to look for an exhaust leak on the intake since the engine is running backwards.
It is a loose flexplate to torque converter bolt. After removing the bellhousing plate, looking at the three major bolts that go from the flexplate to TC, I have determined that two of the three bolts are the correct ones and one is the wrong application. This is a problem, because number one when I verified that the bolt was backed out of its spot by I'd say not even a couple mm, I also noticed that there was also a washer on this bolt. The ticking/clacking sound I am hearing is the washer while flexplate is in rotation. I went to go tighten the bolt back down and also realized that the bolt was bottoming out on the torque converter! When I saw this I thought okay lets just take this one out and I'll put the correct one in to match the other two. Negative, the bolt got somehow stripped and will not tighten nor back out! Not knowing how something like this is even plausable except for the fact that my buddy helping me is the one who hooked the trans up, and trust me when I saw this he soon after got a major ass chewing. So what to do about this now... I work a full schedule and I don't have the time nor money to be backing the trans off at this moment in time. I understand that not properly correcting this problem could cause the bolt to back out at any moment going down the road, and possibly crack the flexplate or worse because of it being out of balance. I am thinking that for the time being until I have time to either torch the bolt and re-tap the hole or take it to someone, I am just going to put some blue loctite around it and call it a day. It's little things like this that piss me off, but understanding that he grabbed the wrong bolt at the time is all I can do... 
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
just run the bolt out with out a torch and see if you can helicoil it. or still pull it out and try to use a thread restorer and see how long it will last.but with the flexplate to converter bolts it will be a tight fit assuming you can find a kit for that bolt size.
retorq
Full Access Member
Yeah that's not going to be an easy fix, you you will more then likely have to pull either the trans or the engine to get in there and fix it properly. Other wise it's a horrible patch job, you can't run with just 2 bolts on there either, you'll crack the flex plate and then have bigger issues.
Yea got it up on the lift this morning and torched it lol. Had to do an oil change anyway and the oil filter was really the only thing in the way. Carefully ran a tap through the converter hole and found a bolt just slightly bigger to fit perfect. No more crazy ticking sound lol. I do have a couple questions about the oil pressure gauge I hooked up this past weekend. First, I haven't hooked up the wires on the back of the gauge yet for the backing light, and I wanted to know where was a safe place to hook the black and the white wires under the dash? Second, was I supposed to bleed the oil feed line off before I put it into the back of the gauge? I feel like there may be an air pocket in it somewhere causing the gauge to fluctuate slightly.
