electrical questions

[the big blue bus]

have a few q's figure id put em all in one thread.

1. i did the 4 high not too long ago and when i flick to high the lows flicker for a second then are fine. when i got back to lows the highs turn off and lows dont change. any idea what the problem is/how to fix?

2. for those that have replaced the battery cable ends whats the best way to do it and change it to the clamp on style? or should i wait and do new wires all together?

3. i also have a husky power inverter id like to install in the hoe. from reading some i can just wire it directly to the battery with big enough wiring? or should i set it up with a relay so only power when keys hot?

4. i have aux reverse lights right now. is there a way i can change it so i can have them come on with the reverse lights and when i want? the switch is only a off and on carling rocker switch style. i dont have this yet but on their sit ethey offer a 3 position one. id like to wire some driving lights the same way but one on all the time and other position with high beams. anyone have a picture of the diagram how id wire it in this way. i asked for the switches for x mas but id i dont get them ill order the proper 3 way switches for the driving and reverse ones. i have the fog light switch allready. i may add some lights on the roof not sure yet but if i did id wire them the same way as well

 

[the big blue bus]

found these so i could keep the factory power wires and make it easier when i add the power inverter and adding other electrical accs.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=stin...tart=205&ndsp=23&ved=1t:429,r:20,s:205&surl=1

 

[sparg93]

1. i did the 4 high not too long ago and when i flick to high the lows flicker for a second then are fine. when i got back to lows the highs turn off and lows dont change. any idea what the problem is/how to fix? - how did you wire the setup?

3. i also have a husky power inverter id like to install in the hoe. from reading some i can just wire it directly to the battery with big enough wiring? or should i set it up with a relay so only power when keys hot? - as a safe guard, a relay is a great alternative, but then the truck needs to be accessories on when using the inverter (as you mentioned). If that part doesn't matter to you, then I would personally run the relay and a heavy duty fuse in front of it....

4. i have aux reverse lights right now. is there a way i can change it so i can have them come on with the reverse lights and when i want? - yes, tap into your OEM reverse, but definitely run a relay...i just replaced my old aux reverse and I tapped into the orange wire that runs against the frame (IIRC, the wires runs just past the rear diff on the frame and is part of a larger bundle, all on the driver side)--- I hid my relay setup inside the rear bumper and I have no exposed wires, just buy some wire loom

 

[ezdaar]

have a few q's figure id put em all in one thread.

1. i did the 4 high not too long ago and when i flick to high the lows flicker for a second then are fine. when i got back to lows the highs turn off and lows dont change. any idea what the problem is/how to fix?

2. for those that have replaced the battery cable ends whats the best way to do it and change it to the clamp on style? or should i wait and do new wires all together?
Get the nice copper ends. clamp them in a vice then heat with a propane torch, and fillem halfway with solder. while continuing to heat it slip your cable into the end, heat it some more until you see the solder soak up into the copper core of your batt cables. Let it cool down and its Never coming apart or corroding again.

3. i also have a husky power inverter id like to install in the hoe. from reading some i can just wire it directly to the battery with big enough wiring? or should i set it up with a relay so only power when keys hot?
Run a fused relay no matter what, it will help isolate the noise from the inverter from entering your OEM system. Trigger the relay either by key or a switch.

4. i have aux reverse lights right now. is there a way i can change it so i can have them come on with the reverse lights and when i want? the switch is only a off and on carling rocker switch style. i dont have this yet but on their sit ethey offer a 3 position one. id like to wire some driving lights the same way but one on all the time and other position with high beams. anyone have a picture of the diagram how id wire it in this way. i asked for the switches for x mas but id i dont get them ill order the proper 3 way switches for the driving and reverse ones. i have the fog light switch allready. i may add some lights on the roof not sure yet but if i did id wire them the same way as well

Hook the lights up to your reverse wire in trailer harness as normal. then
Use your constant hot wire inside your trailer harness and a Fused relay, to power the lights when you flick a switch in cab.
Isolate it from your reverse wire with a Diode.

Easy cheesy

 

[the big blue bus]

so i can use a normal switch? or would i need to redo my wiring some? right now it has power always they come in handy at bon fires and such. so your saying ezdaar i can change up my wiring some and add a diode
and still use a normal on off switch and get the two functions i want? i see a bundle of wires in the frame back tehre but i have no trailer plug.

my 4 high is done like this. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81569&mode=threaded could it be the lower guage wire i used to tap into it? i used crappy wires that came with some walmart lights i got a while ago. i did the wiring a while ago never got it to work till now. if the wire is the problem i will upgrade it to 14 guage i have laying around if thats better. im sure its on the smaller side.

i have these plugs by the bumper. 2 4 wure plugs and a 2 wire one. the 4s have dark green light green brown and yellow. i found areverse light wiring and it says light green is the wire for em? am i correct or no

edit: just found this online... On the Chevy tow package the wires come previously coated with a particular color. Blue is for electric brakes, orange is your hot lead 12 volt for the battery, smaller brown one is for the running lights, the large white one is for the ground, dark green is your right turn and right brake, yellow left turn and left brake, and light green is for reverse lights.

 

[the big blue bus]

so with the diagram below i can use the lights when ever i want and when i shift into reverse they will automatically turn on from looking into it more, id then need to tap into the reverse lights in that harness out back and run a wire up front to tie into my switch wire to relay? and i would need to add the diodes in proper way as well. will the cat5 wire i used as signal wire be big enough to handle taping the stock reverse lights into?

 

[the big blue bus]

when i get spare time im going to tap into the reverse wire and run the wire up front to the relay and tap into the signal and place the diode as well. hopefully all goes well and works. will this diode do the trick? http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036270

i plan to also add bigger wires to the 4high wiring and see if it gets rid of the flicker.

when i get a push bar and add the lights i have and hids im going to wire them up similar to the reverse lights. they will be on a switch and i can turn them on and off when i have the parking lights on like how the fogs are now. i will also add the wire from the high beam to the signal with diode so when i turn on the high beams they push bar lights will turn on automaticaly if they arent allready on.

does anyone have pictures of how to add trailer plug to the factory wirring? i have all the wires out back and want to add a plug that has the 7 pin and a 4 pin on the side too

 

[dsltrc]

just be careful, i know that in VA if you have fog lights that if they don't turn off when high beams are on you can get a rejection sticker at inspection time.... that being said i had my old 81' toyota inspected and i had push par with fog lights and they called me during inspection and said they would fail me unless they cut the wires and removed the lights.... so i said go ahead, later i hooked up a wireless kit and had a key fob to turn on/off lights so they never had access to turn lights on without that key fob...
(NOTE; NOT ALL INSPECTION STATIONS ARE TURDS LIKE THESE GUYS WERE)

 

[the big blue bus]

yeah i realize this... i get my friends dad to inspect mine so he isnt too worried about that. i can rewire them easily if needed

side note... how do you like the r1 rotors?

 

[retorq]

I would run a circuit breaker instead of a fuse on the power supply side of the relay. They auto reset so you don't have to have spares on hand should something go wrong. Fuse the switch side for sure ...

 

[dsltrc]

so far i love the R1 rotors... havn't warped, no cracks from the drilled holes and i have better than stock breaking as well as no mushy feel from water hydroplanning the pads...

---------- Post added at 10:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:49 AM ----------

i'm thinking about doing the 4-high mod and i'm not sure if it is Inspection Legal so i'm going to wire a switch in the engine bay so i can turn it on/off at will... i have a good place to get inspections too but i'm the type that i want it semi legit just in case i sell it or what not... should be pretty slick when i get it done....

 

[the big blue bus]

i think it would be leagal.. still just 4 lights on

side note i undid the wire bundle and see all the wire ends for trailer plug. when the time comes ill just solder all of those t the wires on the plug i install. for the reverse im going to tap into the reverse wire along the frame all the way up front by the motor. ill add the diode to the wire and plug that one into the relay where my switch wire went. then i will tap the switch wire into that wire and then all should work as i want... be able to turn the aux back lights on by switch and when i shift into reverse they come on regardless to switch position. see a problem with this?

and sweet how long have you been running them? with what pads. i need some help stoping the beast with 35s.

 

[dsltrc]

I've had them for 3 months now..... Here's what I got

Ordered: 1 - SKU: TOPR1-GMC375-F-EDS-301 - Price: $132.99 Description: ELINE PERFORMANCE DRILL SLOT Brake Rotors + Pads: FRONT

Ordered: 1 - SKU: 301.03690 - Price: $0.00 Description: R1 Premium Ceramic Brake Pads

Ordered: 2 - SKU: EDS.66009 - Price: $0.00 Description: E-LINE Cross Drilled Diamond Slotted Brake Rotor

I've also got SS brake lines to put on but ill wait to do that after I get the 3/4 ton calipers... But if you've got the money I would think about the hydro boost setup... I won't need that since I'm staying stock height and tire size....

 

[the big blue bus]

thanks for the info.. may end up with them

working on drawing a diagram on how im going to rewire the reverse lights and how im going to do my driving lights when i get them on. will post when im done. if i only put a diode on the wire from stock reverse lights to the relay when i i switch to reverse and the aux lights come on will it make the switch light up too if i dont have a diode on the signal wire from the switch?

 

[the big blue bus]

so as of now i have wire taped from rteverse lights to the relay and no switch. need to get diodes. if i put a diode only on the wire to the switch when i turn thr lights on would the stock reverse lights come on too?

 

[sparg93]

I've had them for 3 months now..... Here's what I got

I've also got SS brake lines to put on but ill wait to do that after I get the 3/4 ton calipers... But if you've got the money I would think about the hydro boost setup... I won't need that since I'm staying stock height and tire size....

I'm not sure if it will matter, but I'm assuming you bought 1/2t size pads...and now your moving to a 3/4t caliper. The piston on the 3/4t caliper is larger, so it will affect where it contacts the back of the pads.

I've never put a used 1/2t pad on a 3/4t caliper, but how the pad has been wearing against the disc could be slightly off....I'm just thinking out loud, I'm not sure if it will matter.

If you do go with the 3/4t pad, you will need to shave off part of the pad b/c it will rub the top hat on the disc (there's a writeup on here showing what I'm referring to)

As an aside - For anyone thinking of upgrading to 3/4t calipers and NOT upgrading the rest of the braking system, you will be severely disappointed in the results. 3/4t calipers on a stock 1/2t system will increase your stopping distance per research I completed. I don't mean to sound negative, but I've seen some misinformation on here regarding the benefits of 3/4t calipers on stock 1/2t systems.

As ds mentioned, hydro is a fantastic upgrade with a lot of believers all around. It can be expensive and you will have to know your way around brakes to complete the work, but from what I have read, the benefits are incredible.

I hope this helps!!

 

[the big blue bus]

^ hydro boost is a while down the raod for me and the caliper upgrades and such. just doing rotors and pads


going to the shack tonight and get some diodes for truck. going to solder one in the reverse light wire and one in the signal wire and should all work as i want with a single position switch will post up when i get this done.

side note got some light wired up in my buddys obs f150 in the diesel bumper. seems ford guys have same ideas as us... well they got the idea from me lol. his truck looks like mine with parking lights and fogs on just no cab lights at night. they want me to put some cab lights on their trucks (twins) still need to wire the other truck up too

 

[sparg93]

definitely take some photos of your wiring!

I'd like to run a switch as well and possible have rears mounted on the back of a roof rack in addition to under the bumper...but I haven't sat down yet to figure out the wiring.

 

[the big blue bus]

definitely take some photos of your wiring!

I'd like to run a switch as well and possible have rears mounted on the back of a roof rack in addition to under the bumper...but I haven't sat down yet to figure out the wiring.

ive thought about some up top too on a switch and the ones under the bumper just with reverse but i put latters on roof alot so idk if id want to risk knocking it off lol. will get some pics on how i did stuff

 

[the big blue bus]

going to solder the diodes tomorrow after school. will take pics for you guys

been reading on headlight harness upgrade. may make my own. will need to get some more relays, wires and the proper plugs to make it all work. will be fun project and will hopefully get rid of the flicker i have with my 4high when i switch to high beams