Revert back to OEM Z55 suspension, good or bad idea?

[LSCALADE]

You are just going to have to rotate the spring to fit it correctly on the mount, no big deal the bottom mount is just flat perch so the spring should not have an issue if its tweaked a few degrees.

On the mount itself there are reliefs for the back of the studs to fit so the rubber portion can lay flat against the top mount.

 

[chutkin]

Hi guys,
Thanks for the help. I managed to assemble one of the shocks. It was not that hard.
Is there torque specification for the center nut on the shock?
I tighten it till it stopped but did not put much force since I need to keep strut stem from rotating by 9mm wrench.
Here are some pics:

Thanks for your help!
Ivo

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Hi guys,
Thanks for the help. I managed to assemble one of the shocks. It was not that hard.
Is there torque specification for the center nut on the shock?
I tighten it till it stopped but did not put much force since I need to keep strut stem from rotating by 9mm wrench.
Here are some pics:
View attachment 472346

View attachment 472347

Thanks for your help!
Ivo

Glad to see that you got the strut broken down and re-assembled.

Just curious...... What did it cost you for the second set of spring compressors, and how much time did you spend with only the strut breakdown and strut re-assembly portion of the project?

I'm asking to see if it is worth it in the future for me to go your route (strut breakdown and strut re-assembly) doing the work on your own, versus having a local shop perform only the strut breakdown and strut re-assembly portion of the project. It cost me $50 to have my local shop perform the strut breakdown and strut re-assembly portion of the project.

 

[SpareParts]

It takes me about 1/2 hour to R&R the strut from the spring. A guy can do both sides from jacking it up to letting it down in under 2 hours.
4 compressors are overkill. 2 work just fine using that tool but 4 are added safety for sure.
If you are only planing on doing it once i would just pay the $100 and have them do both. The tool is right around $50
That tool has saved me money for sure. I have swapped struts at least 5 times in the last 8 or so months.

 

[mikez71]

Hi guys,
Thanks for the help. I managed to assemble one of the shocks. It was not that hard.
Is there torque specification for the center nut on the shock?

According to:

Shock, Shock Component, and/or Spring Replacement — 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD V8-5.3L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD V8-5.3L.

charm.li

Electronic 59 lb ft
electrical connector 15 lb ft

Normal suspension is 44 lb ft

 

[chutkin]

Thanks mikez71, useful info.

@ Joseph Garcia
It took me about 45 to 60 minutes to assemble it from new components. It could be done for less but I am doing it for the first time and did many measurements and trials. Spring compressors are about $45 here.

To get old shocks from the car took me about an hour per side.

It is also my hobby, so I am not counting on time and money here. May be I will never use this spring compressors again

Thanks for the help guys!

Ivo

​

 

[chutkin]

Hi guys,

This project progressing but very very slow... hopefully in right direction

It turned to huge restoration.

I ended up renting four post lift in a workshop.

What I am doing so far:

1. Front Z55 suspension, including upper control arms. This was big PITA. Control arms bushings were so rusty that I have to cut arms and bolts to remove them. I found interesting piece of hardware plugged in front shock connectors:

Hera are some pics of control arms hell:

2. Sway bar bushings and links, front and back. It was also hard to remove them. Also made some repairs on front sway bar mounts:

Before:

After:

3. Steering rack assembly and tie rod ends. The old one was leaking a lot.

4. Front differential mounts. I tried to replace only the bushings but they smashed when pressing them, so I order new mounts.

5. Front and back calipers and support rebuild.

To be continued

 

[chutkin]

Not to open another thread...

Since I am doing a lot of staff here, cylinder heads, oil pan gasket, timing chain etc., I thought, I will be good idea to change motor mounts and transmission mount. Looks never been changed before (19 years and 180K miles).

I have only option to buy from Rockauto and they offer sets of motor and transmission mount or individual parts:

First option:

More Information for DEA / MARMON RIDE CONTROL MK5010

Cannot buy Anchor because of some expert restrictions.

Second option:

GM OEM:

More Information for GM GENUINE 15854939

More Information for GM GENUINE 15840278

The price difference is significant here.

Does anyone has any experience with this DAE brand? Good/bad/terrible?

Thanks for your help,
Ivo

 

[chutkin]

To add to the motor mounts topic, I see passenger side of the engine is very close to the firewall. Even some valve cover bolt tear the insulation.
Here are pictures of what I mean:

 

[chutkin]

Hi all,

Front end is almost done. See picture of the passenger side

I have trouble with brake lines. I was able to loosen hoses but flare nut is "welded" to brake line. I think it is covered with some type of plastic paint or so. If I apply some force the line starts to bent but the flare nut does not move.

Is there some safe way to free up these nuts?

Thanks for your help!
Ivo

 

[mikez71]

I would wire brush the threads and try penetrating oil.. (espcially since you say there is a film, maybe rust protection?)

The line can probably bend a several degrees without damage.. It may stay stuck to the nut until it's loosened..

Put a vice grip under the threads of your old hose fitting (Don't smoosh the threaded section), and twist opposite direction of nut simultaneously?
If you can get two wrenches next to each other and squeeze them together, it's more solid and effective than leveraging with one wrench..

And you really must need motor mounts with your pass. valve cover hitting the firewall!
I'd say any mount is better than what's in there.. I know nobody wants to do it twice, but it's not that bad if worst case you need to replace again..

 

[chutkin]

Hi Mike,

Sorry for not explaining it clear.

The problem is between nut and black pipe. I was able to remove hose by turning it wile the nut is stuck to the black pipe.

The strangest thing is that it is not that rusty...

Thanks for the help!
Ivo

 

[SpareParts]

I'm not positive but it sure looks like your upper control arm adjusters are on upside down.

 

[mikez71]

I'm not positive but it sure looks like your upper control arm adjusters are on upside down.

I agree, and it looks like his original ones were that direction..
Looks like it should not matter either? (Unless adjustment range is impacted somehow?)

I think it looks better his way!

 

[chutkin]

You are absolutely correct :-(
I will rework this today.

 

[mikez71]

Hi Mike,

Sorry for not explaining it clear.

The problem is between nut and black pipe. I was able to remove hose by turning it wile the nut is stuck to the black pipe.

The strangest thing is that it is not that rusty...

Thanks for the help!
Ivo

Ah OK.. Is that paint on any other connection?

Maybe try solvent/thinner to see if you can dissolve the paint substance?

Might plan for a new metal line just in case...

 

[chutkin]

Hi guys,

I put adjusters in the correct way.Thanks for spotting it!

I got very good at that... I can do it for less than 30 minutes per side

About brake line nuts... the pipes are coated with some plastic or paint. I have to burn about 1 cm of it and nut got free.

Next is engine in job

 

[adventurenali92]

Nice work being done so far!! Really cool to hear about these awesome rigs living good lives abroad! Share some photos of the whole truck when ya get a chance!

 

[petethepug]

Nice work Ivo. Fun BIG American truck to have in Europe. Seat heaters & dual ac/heating for winter makes it a limo. Did you get the heated steering wheel too?

 

[chutkin]

Nice work Ivo. Fun BIG American truck to have in Europe. Seat heaters & dual ac/heating for winter makes it a limo. Did you get the heated steering wheel too?

Yes, it is Fun

Unfortunately, there is no heated steering wheel. I was about to ask, if I get one from somewhere, is it "bolt on" or additional wires/fuses/relays required?

Also, gas here f... expensive. I may convert it to LPG in the future. My daily driver is LPG converted 2004 Monte Carlo SS Supercharged and it makes fuel expenses reasonable.

BR,
Ivo