Autoride bypass

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KidWgn

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Alright guys, apologies if I am reviving an old thread but i think this may hopefully help others. I believe this is the correct solution WITHOUT having to pull the compressor fuse.

I spoke to shocksims by xineering, who were willing to help and were extremely professional, told me that the ride height sensor needs to be clocked so thats its in a range between 1 - 4 volts. This tells the computer that the suspension is in the correct range. More info here on their site in the Bypassing Z55 "Pre-2015" Magneride section located at bottom of their FAQ page

Before even trying to set the ride height sensor, I pried open the sensor link arm that connects from the sensor to the body. First I pulled it off from the sensor with a trim tool then did the same on the lower side that connects to the body. BE VERY CAREFUL and tug gently but firmly with a trim tool because you can easily break the ride height sensor. These photos are for demonstration purposes as installation was already complete at time of photos.

You can see in the picture below that I put a ziptie as tight as possible around the sensor arm and the sensor. To verify voltage changes, I put two t-pins on the middle (green) wire and right (orange) wire of the connector that goes into the ride height sensor and checked the volts when the arm is fully extended with a multimeter in which it read around 5v, once clocked back and zip-tied it is around 2.5 - 2.6 volts. (Third photo)

Lastly I add the resistors as mentioned many times in this thread with T taps, just in case anyone wants to replace the air ride components the connector is still there. I did add electrical grease inside the T taps and connections to prevent moisture build up and corrosion. Currently the wires are taped up to the resistor but will solder it up soon and self tap into frame.

Hope this helps someone!!
Giving this a shot this weekend
 

NZNC

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Has anyone ever actually tried one of these?

Before installing the resistors I thought about buying and adding this but its honestly not worth it imo.....plus dont quote me on it but I believe it just hides the error message from displaying on your cluster
 

KidWgn

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Before installing the resistors I thought about buying and adding this but its honestly not worth it imo.....plus dont quote me on it but I believe it just hides the error message from displaying on your cluster
I've actually removed the ride height sensors all together, along with the compressor. I'm working on a voltage drop to nullify the whole thing.
 

5StarCustmSolutns

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Funny you should ask that. I actually was just looking more into this yesterday, as I finally solved another issue I was having! Hoping to have something more here soon

copy that.. i'm days away from start of my overweight luxury pre-runner build lol. Still haven't settled on rear shocks though.. Have two +3" Fox 2.5 remote res dsc's sitting here getting mad at me for not installing yet...
Have resistors tee'd up ready to buy, but I feel like best case would be going above their heads and telling truck they have never existed to begin with
 

KidWgn

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copy that.. i'm days away from start of my overweight luxury pre-runner build lol. Still haven't settled on rear shocks though.. Have two +3" Fox 2.5 remote res dsc's sitting here getting mad at me for not installing yet...
Have resistors tee'd up ready to buy, but I feel like best case would be going above their heads and telling truck they have never existed to begin with
You'd still have to use resistors for my solution, you'd just be able to remove the leveling sensors, also. The leveling sensors want to be at ~2.5 volts, so if we drop the input voltage across the signal wire with resistors. essentially dividing the voltage, you trick the signal wire into thinking that the level sensor is present.
 

07Burb

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You'd still have to use resistors for my solution, you'd just be able to remove the leveling sensors, also. The leveling sensors want to be at ~2.5 volts, so if we drop the input voltage across the signal wire with resistors. essentially dividing the voltage, you trick the signal wire into thinking that the level sensor is present.
Please do a write up once you’ve got it complete and working. Either within this thread or as its own tech write up! I’ll sticky it if you can make it happen. I think it’d be valuable info to share :waytogo:
 

5StarCustmSolutns

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You'd still have to use resistors for my solution

Ive pretty much decided that I'm going to remove my sensors all together....to avoid future drama. Need about one more week of parts sourcing/price shopping and I'm going to begin that process.

For the longest Ive been a solid believer in the Z55, it definitely flattens out high speed corners and is does a great job leveling the vehicle when towing heavy. It really is a good on-road system.....but life happens, things(goals aspirations needs) change. My discovery of Arnott's rescission of the lifetime warranty just happened to time perfectly with the completion of my year+ of (self-taught) welding night school classes and also with an opportunity to get into Motorsports, if even in the smallest capacity, in my own back yard, were just too many signs to ignore...

I've now spent the last 6 weeks or so studying off-road suspension geometry/systems....and....well.....I hate it when I think I know something only to learn how truly ignorant I was on the subject lol Just glad I didn't rush out and buy anything before doing some homework!
 

5StarCustmSolutns

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Has anyone ever actually tried one of these?

I called Arnott yesterday to get the skinny on selling them two of the 6 Z55 shocks I have laying around here. In the process I inquired about one of these and was referred to Strutmasters. So I called them and asked some questions about it. They were very guarded with their answers, but did say it hooks into the datalink behind dash. I did get the vibe that they simply dont want to sell you this EBM as a stand alone product. The dude made it clear three times that buying the EBM by itself means they will give you zero installation assistance, help troubleshooting issues, or tech support in the future.....Strange philosophy to me?

It's all done with resistance and voltage ranges / changes is it not??

I thought you might be able to glean something from this video? It's not on this subject but is all about deciphering resistance and voltage changes to take command of one of the systems on our GMT900's
My apologies if this is of no use, but I thought of you when I found it.....well because I just haven't come across too many people that are trying to figure out the Ohms / Volt Changes that these systems operate on...

 

Rocket Man

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I called Arnott yesterday to get the skinny on selling them two of the 6 Z55 shocks I have laying around here. In the process I inquired about one of these and was referred to Strutmasters. So I called them and asked some questions about it. They were very guarded with their answers, but did say it hooks into the datalink behind dash. I did get the vibe that they simply dont want to sell you this EBM as a stand alone product. The dude made it clear three times that buying the EBM by itself means they will give you zero installation assistance, help troubleshooting issues, or tech support in the future.....Strange philosophy to me?

It's all done with resistance and voltage ranges / changes is it not??

I thought you might be able to glean something from this video? It's not on this subject but is all about deciphering resistance and voltage changes to take command of one of the systems on our GMT900's
My apologies if this is of no use, but I thought of you when I found it.....well because I just haven't come across too many people that are trying to figure out the Ohms / Volt Changes that these systems operate on...

These use data lines to communicate for most of the systems, not simply voltage/ resistance. The suspension control module might use voltage/ resistance for the shocks but when you’re talking about the more complicated systems like EBM, ABS, SRS, etc you’re talking data to an actual computer (BCM, ECM, TCM etc) that travels over a shared 5v data line. I used to work on automotive electronics many years ago. I don’t remember sh*t about it but I remember that much.
 

5StarCustmSolutns

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These use data lines to communicate for most of the systems, not simply voltage/ resistance. The suspension control module might use voltage/ resistance for the shocks but when you’re talking about the more complicated systems like EBM, ABS, SRS, etc you’re talking data to an actual computer (BCM, ECM, TCM etc) that travels over a shared 5v data line. I used to work on automotive electronics many years ago. I don’t remember sh*t about it but I remember that much.

Good tp know...
That's kind of what I was trying to get from the guy at Strutmasters
I was fairly confident about the volt/resistance aspect of Z55 and the less complicated systems that operate in that manner, but didn't do a good job distinguishing between them in that post lol...

Are the Data Lines part of the CAN bus system? or different? Do you know if any of the GMT900 systems are CAN FD? or are those only in later model platforms? Is CAN FD the system that was implemented in 2013 industry wide? Just curious?
 

Rocket Man

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Good tp know...
That's kind of what I was trying to get from the guy at Strutmasters
I was fairly confident about the volt/resistance aspect of Z55 and the less complicated systems that operate in that manner, but didn't do a good job distinguishing between them in that post lol...

Are the Data Lines part of the CAN bus system? or different? Do you know if any of the GMT900 systems are CAN FD? or are those only in later model platforms? Is CAN FD the system that was implemented in 2013 industry wide? Just curious?
I do not know what GM uses as far as the data line communication. I used to work on Chrysler electronics about 25 years ago and their stuff was proprietary, pretty sure GM’s is also. All the aftermarket manufacturers have to spend a lot on R&D in order to find workarounds because GM doesn’t provide a way to break into their systems, for plenty of reasons. I’m not current on what the industry uses for data but even if you were to know what type of data lines they use, the actual way the data is encoded and deciphered is guarded between the different major auto companies. It’s meant to keep their systems safe from hackers as well as provide a secure way for them to make money on repairs because the actual sale of new vehicles isnt how the dealers make most of their money, the service and parts departments are. the equipment needed to service them is getting to be so expensive now that it’s getting difficult or even impossible for the backyard mechanic to fix their own vehicles. I wouldn’t want to work on the latest models. There’s dozens of computers in each vehicle now and they all know when one of them is being messed with, they’re watching you and collecting data.
 

5StarCustmSolutns

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they’re watching you and collecting data.

ironically just read two very interesting answers on Quora of all places about that lol...about the black box, etc...

Somehow OnStar started billing my card like 24 months after my 3 free years was up. I cought it on 2nd month. Upon investigation I found a screen that had my mileage logged for every single day, in chrono order for much longer than those two months.. That was 5-6yrs ago in my 2011 model.. Antenna been disconnected since.. Nobody likes a nosy neighbor..

That stuff takes place in everything though.....from refrigerator to phone to smartmeter

Anyways, thx for some clarity on the EBM... In a perferct world I would get the resistance measurements done this week... But when I do I'll post for all
 

RITA GMC YUKON

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When I disconnected the ride height sensors on my 2003 GMC Yukon XL2500 then the message popped up on dash. The message did not appear unplugging the electronic shocks and working the ride height sensor linkage simulating a rough ride. So far the only thing I can think of is disconnecting the linkage and fixing the height sensors at the neutral level. I did make some resistor connections for the shocks. Anyone have information on this.
 

Austin12

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Okay I’ve read this whole thread just want some updates I have a 2013 yukon Denali
I want to replace all shocks with regular shocks(non-air) and remove the coil springs and install heavy duty springs as I do a lot of pulling
I know you need the 25w 3.9ohm resistors for the shocks. Has anyone figured out what is needed to fully delete the auto leveling in the back.
 

Campie

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May want to sticky this:

25 Watt, 3.9 Ohm resistors work perfectly for bypassing Autoride on 2007+ SUV's. I chopped off the connector and soldered the resistor across the two wires, then heatshrunk. Doesnt matter what side attaches to what. No error messages.

Now you can put any shocks on without "Service Suspension" messages, and youre only out about $10.

You can purchase them here
I’d love to have these resistors but your link is not working for me. Can you post details so I can find them? Thanks!
 

Rocket Man

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I’d love to have these resistors but your link is not working for me. Can you post details so I can find them? Thanks!
Here’s an Amazon link but like @Scrappycrow said, just search your favorite shopping place for resistors with those specs with the aluminum fins to dissipate heat.

Hordion 5 Pack Aluminum Case Resistor 25W 3.9 Ohm, Wirewound Resistors Chassis Mounted Screw Tap Power Resistor Adapter for Inverter LED Lights Speakers, ZC2405132767 https://a.co/d/3yS7iXe
 

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