What brand for brakes!?

[Yukongreed]

I need to do brakes all the way around, if it were my choice I’d go OEM AC Delco but it doesn’t look like they’re really making them anymore or possibly a new supplier in china? Which is fine if they’re up to spec only saw them on amazon briefly.

I’m leaning towards Wagner or raybestos. Anyone have any recent experience with these? Back when I had a OBS Chevy they were fine brands..

I’m looking on rock auto, centric? I don’t need the cheapest I want good solid rotors that won’t warp and with stock stopping power. OEM setup works fine for what I do.

Also need to flush any tips welcome

Any info is greatly appreciated!

 

[RaiderRodney]

I’ve had good luck with the powerstop brake kits on all my vehicles and they’re reasonably priced. Take the time and go through the break in seating process.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

GM OEM, PowerStop, EBC are offer good replacement brake components.

 

[rdezs]

The Motive power bleeder is the way to go. Makes it extremely easy not only to bleed the brakes, but flush the entire system out.

 

[rdezs]

Also, you'll want a Tech 2 or a capable bidirectional scanner to bleed the ABS module for a complete flush.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Still like Wagner & Bendix pads.
Due to the braking improvement provided by my 2010 front brake rotors, I find the ceramic pads adequate, and surprisingly nuanced in their applications,
due to how gentle their initial bite is - more of a toothless gumming, really. Feels like I can creep at 0.1MpH, 0.2MpH, 0.3MpH, 0.4MpH, etc, due to their subtlety.

That said, I miss the initial bite of police-type metallic pads, so I'll likely replace my ceramic pads with Bendix Fleet MetLok or similar.

 

[swathdiver]

I need to do brakes all the way around, if it were my choice I’d go OEM AC Delco but it doesn’t look like they’re really making them anymore or possibly a new supplier in china? Which is fine if they’re up to spec only saw them on amazon briefly.

I’m leaning towards Wagner or raybestos. Anyone have any recent experience with these? Back when I had a OBS Chevy they were fine brands..

I’m looking on rock auto, centric? I don’t need the cheapest I want good solid rotors that won’t warp and with stock stopping power. OEM setup works fine for what I do.

Also need to flush any tips welcome

Any info is greatly appreciated!

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php

GMPartsGiant.com

Plug your VIN in at those two sites and have a look. I see GM OE but not exactly sure what you've got.

 

[Marky Dissod]

... need to do brakes all the way around, if it were my choice I’d go OEM AC Delco ...
... don’t need the cheapest I want good solid rotors that won’t warp and with stock stopping power. OEM setup works fine for what I do.

IFF you've 17" wheels, you've the liberty to loosen your definition of 'GM' 'OEM', 'stock', etc ...
Step1: Pretend you have a 2010 Yukon (XL?).
Step2: Order the caliper BRACKETS, calipers, rotors, and pads for a 2010 Yukon (XL?).
You can reuse your old brake hoses, or order new ones for your Yukon (XL?).
Even if you penny-pinch (people have sourced brackets and even calipers from junkyards!),
it's still a GM OEM upgrade using base stock stuff! (Did not even bother suggesting 'police package'.)
Step3: remove old schidt, replace with new schidt
Step4: don't thank me, thank GM, I guess?

It really is as simple as above, there's literally nothing more to it. Hoping to spread this like a disease.

 

[clogan2]

I'm running the O'Reilly's store brand, Brake Best. Been completely happy, except for the dusty fronts. My OEMs were still good at 130,000 miles, when an old pad delaminated. I went ahead and R&R'd all the pads and rotors, but it really was unnecessary. A new set of pads would have sufficed

 

[fredcook]

Some time ago, I started getting brakes (pads and rotors) from R1 Concepts. I found them when looking for a good brake set for a CTS-V I used to own. That thing would go through brakes, until I started using R1's stuff. Especially the massive front rotors that had a habit of warping. I'm sure it had noting to do with how I drove it. R1's carbon series rotors were great on that car.

For our Tahoes, I use R1's standard e-line rotors (no slots/cross drill) and ceramic pads. They never warp, no visible dust, and hold up great on and off road, and handle stopping with trailers better than OEM. Reasonable cost as well. R1 actually has "heavy duty" truck rotors and pads. But honestly, the more standard rotor and pads I've been using have been more than sufficient.

R1 Concepts - Performance Brake Parts, Rotors, Pads, Kits: Custom & Aftermarket

Shop R1 Concepts performance brake parts, brake pads, rotors, kits and more. R1 Concepts is the leading manufacturer of braking systems for all vehicles

www.r1concepts.com

 

[Yukongreed]

I ended up going with power stop, after reading a little more in the forums and on Reddit plenty of people with success and little complaints with them.

Went with the Powerstop SC2015 kit, semi coated rotors from rock auto.

My only issue with the power stop kit so far is while installing the front brake pad hardware provided with the pads, the hardware did not fit correctly to the pads. Even if I just tried to slide the pads onto the new hardware the fitment was off could not get them on. I cleaned up my old hardware lubed it all up and the new pads fit that hardware perfectly.

The rear pad kit I had no issue with using the new hardware that came with the pads.

I didn’t get a pic of the fitment issue. I was irritated with dicking around trying to figure out what was wrong! (Wrong kit, wrong pads?)

On the rear I had to turn the e brake adjuster all the way down for correct drum to spin freely.

Did the bed in procedure to the T, need to flush system but after inspection of my bleeders I’m gonna need to replace a few first.

* Final note, my brakes weren’t complete toast they worked I was getting a vibration though, when braking. It turns out one rotor/hub had quite a bit of rust/pits built up, I suspect this was causing the vibration. Rears had plenty of life left in them at least I know it’s got fresh brakes likely won’t need another set in this trucks lifetime!

 

[ss4chad]

Wrong area, sorry!

Chad

 

[alpha_omega]

IFF you've 17" wheels, you've the liberty to loosen your definition of 'GM' 'OEM', 'stock', etc ...
Step1: Pretend you have a 2010 Yukon (XL?).
Step2: Order the caliper BRACKETS, calipers, rotors, and pads for a 2010 Yukon (XL?).
You can reuse your old brake hoses, or order new ones for your Yukon (XL?).
Even if you penny-pinch (people have sourced brackets and even calipers from junkyards!),
it's still a GM OEM upgrade using base stock stuff! (Did not even bother suggesting 'police package'.)
Step3: remove old schidt, replace with new schidt
Step4: don't thank me, thank GM, I guess?

It really is as simple as above, there's literally nothing more to it. Hoping to spread this like a disease.

Why did you suggest the 2010 specifically? Is that the one with the dual pistons?

 

[nick0789]

I’m using the Akebono ProACT pads. OEM brand for a number of manufacturers.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Why did you suggest the 2010 specifically? Is that the one with the dual pistons?

1st version of the GMT900 'update' was obsolesced by 2010 for all GMT900
brake pads & clips (caliper bracket?) were improved for less vibes/odd wear/quieter operation.
Honestly could not say if the GMT800 or GMT900 front brake kits have one or two pistons,
but the GMT900 (both pre- & post-2009) had 13" rotors that require 17" wheels.

 

[Jimmyy]

The GMT900 have 2 pistons for the front calipers. The newer 4 piston calipers also work if you have a larger rim. There's a section on here that has all the details and part numbers.

4-piston-big-brake-upgrade-from-2019-20

 

[alpha_omega]

1st version of the GMT900 'update' was obsolesced by 2010 for all GMT900
brake pads & clips (caliper bracket?) were improved for less vibes/odd wear/quieter operation.
Honestly could not say if the GMT800 or GMT900 front brake kits have one or two pistons,
but the GMT900 (both pre- & post-2009) had 13" rotors that require 17" wheels.

I wonder if they have a taller hat like the PPV rotors do. You would think they have to be somewhat thicker.

The GMT900 have 2 pistons for the front calipers. The newer 4 piston calipers also work if you have a larger rim. There's a section on here that has all the details and part numbers.

4-piston-big-brake-upgrade-from-2019-20

Ok. I know there’s a two piston front that works with a little modification. I wasn’t aware of the four piston. I have 20” and 22” wheels (winter and summer). So the new 4 piston calipers should work. Good to know. Thanks.

 

[Marky Dissod]

GMT900 (I suggest 2010) 2piston 13.0" rotor front brake kit works with 17" wheels, plug & play.
GMTK2xx (2015-2020) 4piston 13.5" rotor front brake kit works with SOME 18" wheels, several washers, and/or grinding down of excess caliper cast material.
Don't know enough about the GMT T1UC-PPV front brake kit ...