Ticking noise and low oil pressure - SOLVED

[YuHoe]

Newbie here. I just purchased a 2008 Tahoe for next to nothing. I am having a few issues. I am hearing a tick near the firewall and I am not sure if it is a lifter or exhaust leak. Strange thing is that if I am parked on an incline (my driveway) there is no ticking and oil pressure is normal. It doesn't matter if I am facing uphill or downhill, no tick. The tick returns if I leave driveway and am on level surface. Oil pressure is normal unless I stop at a red light, then it starts to drop. If it was a lifter, wouldn't it tick at all times? Also the truck raised up, I don't know anything about suspensions on raised trucks so I will include some picks and hopefully someone can tell me what I am working with and what looks bad. Also there is a battery tray on driver side front of engine bay with nothing in it. Am I missing something or is it just an empty spot

 

[rdezs]

Almost sounds like an exhaust leak. Loose or missing exhaust manifold bolts? If it is an exhaust leak, it's pretty common that the leak stops as soon as manifold gets hot.... Perhaps by the time you're pulling out of the driveway.

Oil level? What viscosity oil are you running? Oil pressure at idle in drive after being fully warmed up? (15 minutes at freeway speeds) How many miles on the engine?

And oil pressure check with a mechanical gauge at a hot idle is pretty much needed to begin with.

Long-term plan for the vehicle? Such as are you wanting to keep it running reliably and improper order for another hundred thousand miles? Or to do minimum work to just keep it running as long as possible? Do you do your own work, or are you at the mercy of local shops? That makes a huge difference price wise. .

 

[PG01]

Yeah, im with @rdezs
With that amount of ‘rust’ i can guarantee a few of your exhaust manifold bolts are busted.
Also looks like someone had a second battery in there for something but yanked it. All trucks come with the tray but mostly cop cars got the second battery.

 

[rdezs]

Good observation on that battery tray! It does look like a previous owner may have had a battery installed there.

Also note that the harness next to the under hood fuse box is not in its retainer clip and has been rewrapped with black electrical tape. I would want to open that up and inspect the harness there.

 

[Marky Dissod]

... hearing a tick near the firewall and I am not sure if it is a lifter or exhaust leak.
Strange thing is that if I am parked on an incline (my driveway) there is no ticking and oil pressure is normal. It doesn't matter if I am facing uphill or downhill, no tick.
The tick returns if I leave driveway and am on level surface. Oil pressure is normal unless I stop at a red light, then it starts to drop.
If it was a lifter, wouldn't it tick at all times?

If you get a look at fuel trims with a realtime scanner, you'll find out for sure (or not) if it's an exhaust leak, or some other type of vacuum leak.

Just before the next oil change (SOON!), isn't there a test where you overfill it by 2 quarts, point the nose downhill, and see if oil pressure improves?
And if it does, you need to replace an O-ring, if not something more important?

Also, use Valvoline Restore & Protect 5W30 going forward.

 

[YuHoe]

Almost sounds like an exhaust leak. Loose or missing exhaust manifold bolts? If it is an exhaust leak, it's pretty common that the leak stops as soon as manifold gets hot.... Perhaps by the time you're pulling out of the driveway.

Oil level? What viscosity oil are you running? Oil pressure at idle in drive after being fully warmed up? (15 minutes at freeway speeds) How many miles on the engine?

And oil pressure check with a mechanical gauge at a hot idle is pretty much needed to begin with.

Long-term plan for the vehicle? Such as are you wanting to keep it running reliably and improper order for another hundred thousand miles? Or to do minimum work to just keep it running as long as possible? Do you do your own work, or are you at the mercy of local shops? That makes a huge difference price wise. .

It has 204k miles on it. Motor runs and feels strong. I have only had it 2 weeks so I am not sure what viscosity oil is in it but the level is good. I got it for cheap so the plan was to do minimum work to keep it running while I save up for major overhaul or rebuilt engine and tranny. So I would like at least another 50-75k out of her. I can do my own work if I can pinpoint what needs to be done.

 

[YuHoe]

If you get a look at fuel trims with a realtime scanner, you'll find out for sure (or not) if it's an exhaust leak, or some other type of vacuum leak.

Just before the next oil change (SOON!), isn't there a test where you overfill it by 2 quarts, point the nose downhill, and see if oil pressure improves?
And if it does, you need to replace an O-ring, if not something more important?

Also, use Valvoline Restore & Protect 5W30 going forward.

Is a realtime scanner the same as a regular obd scanner? Or not? Will overfilling by two quarts cause any damage? Or is it safe?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving clarifying questions from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

An interesting point that you make is that the tick goes away when the truck is not on a level surface. As @Marky Dissod suggested above, there is a test for determining if the oil pump pickup tube O-ring is shot. This is a relatively common issue on these trucks. Yes, you will want to change the oil, or remove the 2 extra quarts, after you run the test.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Is a realtime scanner the same as a regular obd scanner? Or not?

Yes, an OnBoardDiagnostic2 (OBD2) scanner.

Will overfilling by two quarts cause any damage? Or is it safe?

No, otherwise I would not have suggested it, cheez. Since you asked, you're clearly concerned;
let me provide a scenario to ease your woes.

JUST PRIOR to the oil change,
Drive it around about 30min (gently). Once the engine oil is truly warmed up, check idling oil pressure.
Without shutting the engine off, add 2 quarts, chock the fronts, jack up the @r$e at least 2ft higher,
then recheck the idling oil pressure. If the oil pressure does not change, you do not need a new O-ring.
If it does, you need a new O-ring, plus maybe some other stuff since you're gonna drop the pan.

Either way, it's now time to change your oil; no, do not drive around with 2 extra quarts.
That said, IFF you have to drive somewhere else to change the oil, drive miss daisy as possible.
Any damage would be caused by whipping the oil into a lather. If you drive gingerly and kept the RpMs LOW, no damage.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Any soft ticking isn't worth worrying about, if there was a problem you would hear a very harsh loud tap or knock. Sometimes at idle the lifters can leak oil causing some slack which might make that sound but once the oil pressure rises they fill back up with oil. Do you have a recording of the sound?

 

[Marky Dissod]

If you start the engine, drive away like it's an emergency in the first 60secs, and hear noises,
try starting, waiting 60secs, and driving away like you want the engine to last 300,000 miles.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

Maybe provide some dash pressure readings at various conditions.
Cold Idle
Cold Freeway 2k rpm
Hot Idle
Hot Freeway 2k rpm
You can also overfill by one quart and drive down a steep hill and apply the brakes. You might see a jump in pressure. The O-ring is a real thing. Probably could be considered a wear item.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

If you start the engine, drive away like it's an emergency in the first 60secs, and hear noises,
try starting, waiting 60secs, and driving away like you want the engine to last 300,000 miles.

I do this as a matter of standard practice. It never hurts to let things stabilize on the truck before moving forward.

I wish that I had applied that logic to myself last November, when I got up from a chair suddenly for not good reason, blacked out, split my head open and fractured four bones in my foot and ankle. Well, I always did tend to learn the hard way.

 

[Marky Dissod]

I do this as a matter of standard practice. It never hurts to let things stabilize on the truck before moving forward.

I wish that I had applied that logic to myself last November, when I got up from a chair suddenly for not good reason,
blacked out, split my head open and fractured four bones in my foot and ankle. Well, I always did tend to learn the hard way.

The older I get, the longer it takes for me to wake, get out of bed, etc.
If I try too hard to wake / get up too quickly, my body reminds me that I'm too old for that schidt, back down to bed, dummy.

In that sense I USUALLY treat my Tahoe better than I treat myself.
If I want to, I can start it and be in motion in under 6sec, but that pretty much guarantees cold piston wap, lifter tick, an odd whine, etc.
Takes about 30-45secs for my RpMs warm up to under 800RpM, then I put it in D and mount my phone in its holder before I drive off gingerly for the next 5min.
Had I been that considerate of my body in my 40s, wouldn't be needlessly suffering in my 50s.

 

[rdezs]

When I start the Escalade cold, oil pressure is 72 psi at idle. I let it idle until it drops down to 55 PSI, usually three or four minutes during the summer. Then drive normal until the temperatures are mostly warmed up. I trained my wife to do this It's actually her baby, and she treats it accordingly.

 

[PG01]

Wait, its not good to start it, slap it in drive, floor it to the end of my driveway 300ft away, then stomp the brakes and then floor it to the next stop sign 1/2 mile away stomping the brakes again? Summer or winter? ????

Ok ill tell my daughter to stop doing that….

Oh wait i did, 19,500x …..

I also told her something f’s up … she’s paying….. such is life…

 

[rdezs]

My 20 year old stepdaughter thought it was funny to burn rubber in her Kia in front of the house every time she took off. We've been warning her for weeks. 3 days ago her transmission had enough. She actually wanted me to fix it. Absolutely not, she was told it's time to grow up and be responsible, LOL

 

[rdezs]

Something occurred to me, we're often recommending ways to diagnose and fix a problem.... Yet there are many people that for whatever reason, don't want to or can't fix it right now and just want to be able to limp it along.

I suppose it would help in all posts for people inquiring.... If they would make that clear to start with.

I get that. It might have 400,000 miles and not worth the cost of an oil pump.... We all have ideas that would allow the continued operation of the vehicle at minimal expense for a while, right? (Like shimming the relief spring in the oil pump instead of replacing the oil pump)

 

[PG01]

Meh, spend everyone’s money….

 

[YuHoe]

Almost sounds like an exhaust leak. Loose or missing exhaust manifold bolts? If it is an exhaust leak, it's pretty common that the leak stops as soon as manifold gets hot.... Perhaps by the time you're pulling out of the driveway.

Oil level? What viscosity oil are you running? Oil pressure at idle in drive after being fully warmed up? (15 minutes at freeway speeds) How many miles on the engine?

And oil pressure check with a mechanical gauge at a hot idle is pretty much needed to begin with.

Long-term plan for the vehicle? Such as are you wanting to keep it running reliably and improper order for another hundred thousand miles? Or to do minimum work to just keep it running as long as possible? Do you do your own work, or are you at the mercy of local shops? That makes a huge difference price wise. .

Found my oil pressure issue. Everything is all good now with the oil pressure and no more ticking.