What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Geotrash

Dave
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Got the new lower control arms on the 2012 last weekend and this weekend finally replaced the lower control arms and CV axles on the 2007. Some of you may remember me whining about the Moog ball joint boots splitting several months ago, after less than 5 years in service. I replaced them with CarQuest Premium control arms this time, which have a lifetime warranty and I used new Cardone CV axles this time, which also have a lifetime warranty. I’ll keep the OEM ones and buy new boots to repair them sometime this summer when I need a project. That way I’ll have 2 more ‘in stock’.

Side note: I tried to get the ball joints out of the OEM control arms from the 2012 to replace them, but despite grinding and hammering on the flange and using the proper tool, I came up short, which is why I bought the CarQuest control arms for the ‘07.

The CarQuest parts are excellent in this case.
 

Jdsfx1

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Started putting the new body on…..

IMG_4204.jpeg
IMG_4205.jpeg
 

alpha_omega

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Rear differential pinion race. Anyone pulled theirs from the driveshaft side? As in - is it possible to remove the outer race with a two jaw puller from the pinion flange end versus punching it from the backside after the gears have been removed?

Granted, if I do so, there’s no telling for sure if the inner race is bad (since it’s the one that usually goes bad first). However, pulling the axles and gear is nothing I want to jump into at the moment.
 

alpha_omega

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Any recommendations on techniques to get seized front swaybar mount hardware loosened up?
I broke one off in the rear and it was a PITA to drill out. Took me a couple days and multiple trips to the store for different styles of easy outs. I must have broken 3 or 4 of them trying to drill it out.

Instead of PB I use Kroil and a mixture of Heat and a can of Freeze-Off. Heat, cold, heat, cold. Tighten then loosen. Heat, cold. And then the others came out instead of breaking off.
 

Chevymec

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This weekend I pulled the trans/transfer case and replaced the rear main cover, flexplate, starter, front pump seal in the trans, drivers side valve cover gasket, changed the oil, trans fluid and transfer case fluid, and replaced the barbell with a Derale aluminum piece. Thought I had a cracked flexplate but it ended up being the bendix in the starter was broken and was hitting the flexplate while the engine was running.
 

Geotrash

Dave
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This weekend I pulled the trans/transfer case and replaced the rear main cover, flexplate, starter, front pump seal in the trans, drivers side valve cover gasket, changed the oil, trans fluid and transfer case fluid, and replaced the barbell with a Derale aluminum piece. Thought I had a cracked flexplate but it ended up being the bendix in the starter was broken and was hitting the flexplate while the engine was running.
Yah, that’s a common issue with these starters. Happened to me and several others here.

Congrats on the other work also!
 

Geotrash

Dave
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Went fine. I grabbed two spring compressor kits this time, so I could get three clamps on the coil vs. just two with a single kit.
Remember to tighten the LCA through bolts only when you have the weight of the vehicle on the control arms. I did this using a jack under the ball joint.
 

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