99 yukon 5.7l no crank no start and electrical compontents making crazy noises

[trevsyukon]

i recently did the intake manifold gasket and got everything back together car started up and ran like crap and shut off twice then i rotated distributer jsut a hair and now it doesnt crank over at all and when i turn the key over to on posistion all power come on but when i go to turn key over to start the engine all the electrical components in car go crazy and make a crazy noise if someone can help me get to the root of the issue youd be life saver

 

[B-train]

i recently did the intake manifold gasket and got everything back together car started up and ran like crap and shut off twice then i rotated distributer jsut a hair and now it doesnt crank over at all and when i turn the key over to on posistion all power come on but when i go to turn key over to start the engine all the electrical components in car go crazy and make a crazy noise if someone can help me get to the root of the issue youd be life saver

I replied to your other thread.

1. If you did intake gaskets, did you mark the distributor position with a marker before removal? And install at the same position? Why did you change the degree of firing order?
2. Have you checked battery voltage? Should be 12.3 - 12.6 static (engine off for several hours).
3. Did you pinch a wire harness somewhere?

This is a great forum with knowledgeable people.......but we're not mind readers or wizards. Details are key.

 

[Blackcar]

Have you checked battery, load test for batteries condition.

 

[trevsyukon]

yes ive tested battery the battery is good

 

[trevsyukon]

I replied to your other thread.

1. If you did intake gaskets, did you mark the distributor position with a marker before removal? And install at the same position? Why did you change the degree of firing order?
2. Have you checked battery voltage? Should be 12.3 - 12.6 static (engine off for several hours).
3. Did you pinch a wire harness somewhere?

This is a great forum with knowledgeable people.......but we're not mind readers or wizards. Details are key.

yes i marked it and did everything like supposed to and i rotated it jsut a hair to check and see if the timming was off just a hair and after that when a turn the key over it would make a crazy clicking noise not like when a battery is dead and yes i understand details is key

 

[Fless]

If it ran in the other position why not rotate it back?

 

[trevsyukon]

If it ran in the other position why not rotate it back?

i did put it back but still no change

 

[trevsyukon]

so when i started it , motor ran rough and then died twice so i rotated the distributer just a hair barely a nickels length still same thing and then i tried for third time it would just make a clicking sound like super fast clicks and then after 4th time trying to turn key over the motor wouldnt crank over at all and all the lights and gauges were flickering and making crazy electrical sounds so then i put a jump starter on battery incase was battery and it was just make crazy clicking noises (sorry i dont know any other way to explain it) if it would help i could try and take a video of whats going on if i could but please bare with me ive never used a forum before

 

[YukonGTmaster]

I would verify that you are top dead center on #1 cylinder, and reposition the distributor. The distributors on these 5.7L are rotated with the "ear" for the distributor cap screw almost hard against the back of the intake manifold.

 

[B-train]

If you had clicking and flickering, you have low voltage. See what the battery is at with a volt meter as it sits. My guess is the battery is weak, lost voltage during repair, and didn't have a good jump start connection when attempted.

1. Check voltage. If below 12v, then battery is suspect
2. Try charging overnight and recheck voltage. If 12.6v or higher then you should be able to crank motor (be advised that voltage IS NOT an indicator of CCA - cold cranking amps,). If clicking/flickering occurs, battery is bad, or connections are not tight/corroded.
3. Load test battery if needed based on steps 1 & 2.
4. Report back after following 1 thru 3

 

[the 18th letter]

Make sure the connection at battery is clean. You can get corrosion in between the plates on the connection at battery.

 

[trevsyukon]

I would verify that you are top dead center on #1 cylinder, and reposition the distributor. The distributors on these 5.7L are rotated with the "ear" for the distributor cap screw almost hard against the back of the intake manifold.
View attachment 456570

okay i will try that today thank you i wasnt sure if the motor needed to be at tdc to from where i adjusted it ill also get some pictures of everything aswell

 

[trevsyukon]

so qusetion i went to turn the key over when i turn it one click it has power but when i turn 2nd time gauges work and when go to turn key third time turn start the car the power just goes away any idea on why this could be?
and the battery is at 12,6v

 

[exp500]

so qusetion i went to turn the key over when i turn it one click it has power but when i turn 2nd time gauges work and when go to turn key third time turn start the car the power just goes away any idea on why this could be?
and the battery is at 12,6v

Check battery cables and starter. Voltage drop at starter when cranking a good test for pos cable, good jumper cable connection to ground and neg battery. Jumper starter solenoid to test starter.Quick tests that may provide a next direction.

 

[510man]

I have 99 Suburban. Check your ground straps. In addition to the battery ground connection, there's one on the thermostat housing, one on the passenger side head facing the firewall and one underneath the alternator on the front of the engine. There may be others, but those are the ones I remember. Check them even if you didn't remove them.

If the battery tests good and the grounds are good, but still problems, I'd replace the battery cables. Originals are 26 years old. They can corrode inside the insulation where you can't see it. They may look fine, but they may not be good.

The distributor pic provided is correct. The flat side of the distributor is almost in line with the backside of the upper intake manifold. The rotor points to an 8 stamped into that little tab in the pic. It should look exactly like the pic when you have it installed correctly. Make sure it seats completely before you tighten. Your timing is set by the computer. No need to move the distributor. Set it to the 8 and you're done.

Lastly, check all the wire connections. There are many unplugged to do intake gaskets. It is easy to miss one or not get one plugged firmly together. I've done it. Then, some sensor isn't working and you get OBDII codes, etc. if you missed one.

Hope it helps.

 

[quaylood]

okay i will try that today thank you i wasnt sure if the motor needed to be at tdc to from where i adjusted it ill also get some pictures of everything aswell

Hook the ground wire. ba ck on the back of engine