99 yukon 5.7l no crank no start and electrical compontents making crazy noises

[the 18th letter]

Make sure the connection at battery is clean. You can get corrosion in between the plates on the connection at battery.

 

[trevsyukon]

I would verify that you are top dead center on #1 cylinder, and reposition the distributor. The distributors on these 5.7L are rotated with the "ear" for the distributor cap screw almost hard against the back of the intake manifold.
View attachment 456570

okay i will try that today thank you i wasnt sure if the motor needed to be at tdc to from where i adjusted it ill also get some pictures of everything aswell

 

[trevsyukon]

so qusetion i went to turn the key over when i turn it one click it has power but when i turn 2nd time gauges work and when go to turn key third time turn start the car the power just goes away any idea on why this could be?
and the battery is at 12,6v

 

[exp500]

so qusetion i went to turn the key over when i turn it one click it has power but when i turn 2nd time gauges work and when go to turn key third time turn start the car the power just goes away any idea on why this could be?
and the battery is at 12,6v

Check battery cables and starter. Voltage drop at starter when cranking a good test for pos cable, good jumper cable connection to ground and neg battery. Jumper starter solenoid to test starter.Quick tests that may provide a next direction.

 

[510man]

I have 99 Suburban. Check your ground straps. In addition to the battery ground connection, there's one on the thermostat housing, one on the passenger side head facing the firewall and one underneath the alternator on the front of the engine. There may be others, but those are the ones I remember. Check them even if you didn't remove them.

If the battery tests good and the grounds are good, but still problems, I'd replace the battery cables. Originals are 26 years old. They can corrode inside the insulation where you can't see it. They may look fine, but they may not be good.

The distributor pic provided is correct. The flat side of the distributor is almost in line with the backside of the upper intake manifold. The rotor points to an 8 stamped into that little tab in the pic. It should look exactly like the pic when you have it installed correctly. Make sure it seats completely before you tighten. Your timing is set by the computer. No need to move the distributor. Set it to the 8 and you're done.

Lastly, check all the wire connections. There are many unplugged to do intake gaskets. It is easy to miss one or not get one plugged firmly together. I've done it. Then, some sensor isn't working and you get OBDII codes, etc. if you missed one.

Hope it helps.