New Arnott magrides are very stiff/bouncy

[BigBlue19]

Last month I replaced my front magrides with the Arnott MR-4262, the recommended magride for my Yukon XL. I'd seen a lot of positive reviews on these.
Before replacement, vehicle ride was stiff you felt Al the bumps, post replacement, I feel it got worst. The bumps are a little smoother, but it still rides like a stage coach.

I forgot to take a before and after measurement, but the front end is definitely at least an inch higher now.

I replaced the rears, air leveling magrides w/Arnott after a few weeks, didn't make much of a difference.

I talked with Arnott, and their only suggestion was to get the suspension position calibration procedure done. I'm going to bring it for that on Friday, but the dealership already feedback, that they have never had to do this for a shock replacement before.

I'm frustrated with this after spending nearly $2k on new shocks. Really wish I had gone with a delete.

Thoughts?

SOLVED! I took it to the dealer and the did the suspension trim height calibration and the ride is so much better. I'm guessing hte change in suspension height was causing hte MCR to lock the schocks on hard.

 

[Doubeleive]

Last month I replaced my front magrides with the Arnott MR-4262, the recommended magride for my Yukon XL. I'd seen a lot of positive reviews on these.
Before replacement, vehicle ride was stiff you felt Al the bumps, post replacement, I feel it got worst. The bumps are a little smoother, but it still rides like a stage coach.

I forgot to take a before and after measurement, but the front end is definitely at least an inch higher now.

I replaced the rears, air leveling magrides w/Arnott after a few weeks, didn't make much of a difference.

I talked with Arnott, and their only suggestion was to get the suspension position calibration procedure done. I'm going to bring it for that on Friday, but the dealership already feedback, that they have never had to do this for a shock replacement before.

I'm frustrated with this after spending nearly $2k on new shocks. Really wish I had gone with a delete.

Thoughts?

What size tires & wheels are you running?

 

[BigBlue19]

What size tires & wheels are you running?

22s with michelin Defender LTX. 285/45/22 (stock)

 

[Doubeleive]

22s with michelin Defender LTX. 285/45/22 (stock)

unless you are getting error messages indicating a problem with the suspension there really isn't much else you can do other than check that the struts are not somehow locked up or something, the ALC trim reset is not likely to make any difference. Those stiff tires don't help either, great for getting lots of miles out of them but those types of tries are a hard tire.
another thing you can check is the airpump, if the relief valve is not working properly the pump will make the rear shocks rock hard and cause a stiff ride as well
maybe while you are having the alc trim reset performed ask the technician to check the pump operation including the relief valve operation.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

You stated that you believe that your front end is approximately 1 inch higher after the Arnott installation. Did you replace the springs as well, as just changing the shock itself won't affect truck height. If you did replace the front springs, were they a direct OEM replacement?

 

[Doubeleive]

You stated that you believe that your front end is approximately 1 inch higher after the Arnott installation. Did you replace the springs as well, as just changing the shock itself won't affect truck height. If you did replace the front springs, were they a direct OEM replacement?

he replaced the whole strut, the "shock" would have only been 1/3rd the cost or maybe 1/2 somewhere around there the struts are almost $500

 

[Fifty]

I hated mine. The springs sagged and Arnott told me that it was normal and within spec.
They were about a month old…

Swapped mine out

 

[CMoore711]

When I put the Arnott’s on the rear of my ‘15 Yukon XL Denali with mag ride the Arnott airline connector never quite fully connected to the OEM rear compressor connection. Which in turn always had my rear pump running and burned it out. Now that could have been a fluke thing from Arnott…

So when I had to replace the rear air compressor I replaced the rear shocks with OEM to prevent that from happening again to the new OEM rear air compressor.

Filed a warranty claim on the rear Arnott’s through rock auto. Got replacements for free and sold them to recoup some funds.

Chalked it up as lesson learned to stick with OEM shocks and struts when available.

 

[the blur]

My Escalade needs new front struts. I was just about to order Arnotts. Guess not. OEM's are crazy money.

 

[BMPNUGLS]

I installed the same struts last fall and love the ride….and they have seemed to get ‘softer’ the more miles I put on them. Immediately after the install my front was raised as well…almost leveled the front with the rear. It took a few thousand miles but the springs eventually ‘settled’ and brought the front back down a bit…..hence the softer ride as it got some miles on them.

The MR-4262’s do have a beffier spring on them than the factory struts (for the XL models) which makes sense that they would raise the front until they settled in.

Since these are the passive versions to override the magneride I don’t think a recalibration procedure will help any. Assuming you don’t have any binding from the install (check sway bar end links etc) you may have to give them some time for the springs to settle in a bit.

I will also say that shortly after replacing the front struts I also switched out my 22’s with the same Michelins you have for a set of 20” take offs from a Silverado with Goodyear AT’s and the ride SIGNIFICANTLY improved even more with the increased tire sidewall! Those 22’s with the stick Michelins are TERRIBLE in terms of ride!

 

[the blur]

I wouldn't buy anything with a new spring. I like my cush cush 100,000 mile springs. Yes, it's more in labor, but I can't imagine new springs in the front only...

 

[Joseph Garcia]

My Escalade needs new front struts. I was just about to order Arnotts. Guess not. OEM's are crazy money.

Go to GMPartsDirect.com, enter your VIN, go to the Suspension section, and look for the exploded diagram of shocks. You should find what you are looking for along with the correct part number. And, the cost will be significantly cheaper than the local dealer. Your cost for Z95 shocks at this site will be in the neighborhood of $350 each.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I wouldn't buy anything with a new spring. I like my cush cush 100,000 mile springs. Yes, it's more in labor, but I can't imagine new springs in the front only...

You are correct in that if you are going to replace the front springs, the rear springs should be changed at the same time. At ~150k miles, replacing the front springs lifted my front end about 1 inch.

 

[Eighthtry]

The only thing I modified on my 2011 Yukon Denali suspension was upgrade the front sway bar and add a rear heavy sway bar. The factory Magnarides are fantastic. I had them in my 2010 CTS V, my 2011 GMC Yukon XL, and now have them in my 2018 Z06. Best shock in the business. Longest life in the business. Best ride in the business. All three of those cars were made for Magnarides. Don't talk yourself out of them.

 

[BigBlue19]

Just to let everyone know and for future troubleshooters, getting the suspension trim height recalibration solved the issue and the Arnotts ride great now. Only cost me $77 at the dealer.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thank you for posting your solution to your issue. Our collective knowledge base has been increased.


Please add the word "FIXED" or "SOLVED" to your thread's title, to let others who are experiencing a similar issue know that this thread has an identified solution.

 

[Tahoe14]

The blur, is that Dealer pricing or Rockauto with your 5% discount or GMparts direct.com. I would never buy from thr Dealer.

 

[jraydble]

Just to let everyone know and for future troubleshooters, getting the suspension trim height recalibration solved the issue and the Arnotts ride great now. Only cost me $77 at the dealer.

Hey thanks for your post! I really appreciate it! Do you have the 4x4 model?

 

[Got-Boost?]

Just to let everyone know and for future troubleshooters, getting the suspension trim height recalibration solved the issue and the Arnotts ride great now. Only cost me $77 at the dealer.

Is there another name for this or where the dealer can look it up to understand?

I’ve replaced the magna-ride and asked the dealer to do this and they don’t know what I’m talking about.

Dealer is clueless and truck has new suspension and rides like complete crap.

HELP

 

[kimbawl]

Im so glad I found this page. I had a shop install the same stuts on the front of my 2017 suburban and had the same problem, struts were stiff and bounced quite a bit, but also raised the ride height back to stock that's how worn the og stuts were. About 2 months after install I had noticed the driver side strut was hardwired with duct tape not plugged into the factory harness. The shop that installed them had crushed the plug on the strut when installing and they said the replaced the plug with a 2 pin universal, they lied about that. I didn't think anything of it at the time and didn't check the mechanics work so that is on me for not doing my due diligence after the repair. Well I thought the plug being missing on both the strut and the factory vehicle harness( that shop cut it off when they hardwired the strut ) that would be the problem. It was part of it sure but not the root cause I think. Had my best friend that's a body/ mechanical tech wire in new plugs on the strut and vehicle wire harness so thats back to how it should be now. Called my local chevy dealer and got right in for service that day! Had them do the trim height relearn on the suspension control module and also had them do an alignment on the front and that solved my issues completely. Now the front rides like it should, like a cloud!