What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Tonyrodz]

Drove it this morning, started in "reduced engine power mode." So I stopped, reset the codes with my scanner, and drove on like nothing was broken. Funniest "repair" I've ever made.

When my 03 did it constantly--before I finally fixed it--I had a cheap dedicated scanner constantly plugged into the obd. I'd have it ready to clear the code as soon as it would pop up. Worked every time--and it would come back every time. Real PITA--nevermind it being dangerous and happening at the worst time.

 

[strutaeng]

When my 03 did it constantly--before I finally fixed it--I had a cheap dedicated scanner constantly plugged into the obd. I'd have it ready to clear the code as soon as it would pop up. Worked every time--and it would come back every time. Real PITA--nevermind it being dangerous and happening at the worst time.

Yikes! So how DID you fix the issue?

I wonder if @S33k3r has thought of, or even have the option to just do a drive by cable swap? Just thinking out loud here?

Edit: here's a diy tutorial: https://www.performancetrucks.net/f...onics-wiring-161/how-too-dbw-dbc-swap-549983/

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yikes! So how DID you fix the issue?

I wonder if @S33k3r has thought of, or even have the option to just do a drive by cable swap? Just thinking out loud here?

Edit: here's a diy tutorial: https://www.performancetrucks.net/f...onics-wiring-161/how-too-dbw-dbc-swap-549983/

1st a replaced the plug for the tb. They're a known issue for having the copper wires breaking inside the insulation. That fixed it for awhile. Then it started again. This time it was the ground on the ds below the running board. I cleaned it up and it's been good for a few years now. I bet I just jinxed myself now....

 

[project_x]

How much of a difference did the Killmat make? I'm planning to do the same thing to mine over the winter.

I only did the floor under the first 2 rows and the pillars between the doors. It is much quieter, I wish I had done it earlier.

 

[SilverSport]

oil change with full synthetic 5W-30 and a new ChampXL oil filter...currently at 80K miles...

I've settled on 5K miles for oil changes and thus far it does not appear my 6.0 uses any oil between changes with the oil appearing to be a light, iced tea color when time for an oil change...this 6.0 seems to be running very well for me over my first 15 months of ownership...

Bill

 

[HansJr]

Picked her up from the paint shop. Now have to put all the bits back together.

 

[ivin74]

1st a replaced the plug for the tb. They're a known issue for having the copper wires breaking inside the insulation. That fixed it for awhile. Then it started again. This time it was the ground on the ds below the running board. I cleaned it up and it's been good for a few years now. I bet I just jinxed myself now....

What is ds?

 

[Scottydoggs]

What is ds?

driver side. theres two large grounds on the frame.

 

[ivin74]

driver side. theres two large grounds on the frame.

I've never seen those grounds, going to look for them. Thx

 

[Scottydoggs]

I've never seen those grounds, going to look for them. Thx

they are like below the brake and gas pedals/ back of the front wheel area.

 

[ivin74]

they are like below the brake and gas pedals/ back of the front wheel area.

Thx

 

[S33k3r]

1st a replaced the plug for the tb. They're a known issue for having the copper wires breaking inside the insulation. That fixed it for awhile. Then it started again. This time it was the ground on the ds below the running board. I cleaned it up and it's been good for a few years now. I bet I just jinxed myself now....

I'm turning it over to my mechanic on Monday. I have so many irons in the fire right now I'm afraid the fire's going to go out!

 

[Tonyrodz]

View attachment 437488

I'm turning it over to my mechanic on Monday. I have so many irons in the fire right now I'm afraid the fire's going to go out!

Sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet, and have someone else do it--just to keep your sanity.

 

[Aquamania001]

This weekend I had both front and rear diff's new fluid, transfer case new fluid and oil and filter change. Made sure all tires were at 40 lbs. Runs smooth as silk now. Think I am going to do the plugs next weekend. Used Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30, and Valvoline for everything else.

 

[mattbta]

Passed safety/emissions inspection. 3774 miles driven last year....double the year before!

TX is doing away with safety inspections soon but all the major counties still require emissions.

 

[mattbta]

Also, filled it with e85. Last tank got 11.6 MPG. Oof. But I love the power!

 

[ukemike]

I got out my '02 'burb and drove it a bit and loaded it up with tires and wheel for mounting for the race car. When I was done the driver window would not roll up. Ugh!

After fiddling it was clear it was the switch. The other 3 window switches you could hear the motor try and the dome light dimmed slightly, with this one nothing happened. So I took off the door card for the first time. Removing interior body panels isn't my least favorite car task, but it is close. I usually break a clip or three. I got it off without damage and it wasn't too hard. Then I realized that I didn't have to take the door card off. After extracting the switch I had to partially disassemble it to see how it worked. I was able to fiddle with it to get the window rolled up. Since the door card was off I took the opportunity to install the ebay 3-d printed part for the broken door handle. I bought it months ago, but hadn't installed it because, well, interior body panels. When putting the door card back on it was hard to make that new door handle hook into the door, and I ended up cracking it but not completely breaking it. Dang it! I tried some epoxy-fu to try to reinforce it. I'll just be gentle. I put it all back together and found two screws I didn't put back in. Dang it again! Also I cracked the cover that goes over the switches. @#$*%! It is the light gray color and all the replacement ones I've seen are black. I pulled the rocker switch cover off the switch for the driver window, so no one accidentally rolls it down again. Then today I ordered a replacement switch unit. When I get the new switch, I'll take it all apart again, figure out where those two screws go, and try to work some epoxy magic with the cracked cover panel. Then while reinstalling it I will probably break two or three other clips. If I get the switch working and the door card on well enough that it doesn't sag, I'll call it a win.

I also took the opportunity to tape the plastic sheet to the door. The adhesive on these fails over time and that sheet is what keeps the door card dry when water runs down the window. Whenever you have a door card off of any car I recommend taping that plastic sheet in place along the top. I used gorilla tape that I tore in half lengthwise. That, at least, worked great.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I got out my '02 'burb and drove it a bit and loaded it up with tires and wheel for mounting for the race car. When I was done the driver window would not roll up. Ugh!

After fiddling it was clear it was the switch. The other 3 window switches you could hear the motor try and the dome light dimmed slightly, with this one nothing happened. So I took off the door card for the first time. Removing interior body panels isn't my least favorite car task, but it is close. I usually break a clip or three. I got it off without damage and it wasn't too hard. Then I realized that I didn't have to take the door card off. After extracting the switch I had to partially disassemble it to see how it worked. I was able to fiddle with it to get the window rolled up. Since the door card was off I took the opportunity to install the ebay 3-d printed part for the broken door handle. I bought it months ago, but hadn't installed it because, well, interior body panels. When putting the door card back on it was hard to make that new door handle hook into the door, and I ended up cracking it but not completely breaking it. Dang it! I tried some epoxy-fu to try to reinforce it. I'll just be gentle. I put it all back together and found two screws I didn't put back in. Dang it again! Also I cracked the cover that goes over the switches. @#$*%! It is the light gray color and all the replacement ones I've seen are black. I pulled the rocker switch cover off the switch for the driver window, so no one accidentally rolls it down again. Then today I ordered a replacement switch unit. When I get the new switch, I'll take it all apart again, figure out where those two screws go, and try to work some epoxy magic with the cracked cover panel. Then while reinstalling it I will probably break two or three other clips. If I get the switch working and the door card on well enough that it doesn't sag, I'll call it a win.

I also took the opportunity to tape the plastic sheet to the door. The adhesive on these fails over time and that sheet is what keeps the door card dry when water runs down the window. Whenever you have a door card off of any car I recommend taping that plastic sheet in place along the top. I used gorilla tape that I tore in half lengthwise. That, at least, worked great.

Try taking the master switch apart. What usually happens are the contacts sometimes gets that green corrosion on the inside from all the years of getting wet from when it rains and the windows are down. Clean that corrosion off and it might work again. I've also read of guys using a battery from a power tool, andwiringthe positiveandnegativeinto the eindow switch to get the window closed. Can't hurt.

 

[S33k3r]

Dropped the Suburban off at the mechanic today. Drove it there at 30 MPH, in "reduced power mode". We saved an Uber trip by driving the Escalade there, parking it nearby, riding back with my wife to the house, then driving the Suburban there. Filled up the tank on the Escalade today, too. It took 23 gallons in a 31 gallon tank. That thing gets amazing gas mileage, compared to my other 6 liters.

[EDIT: "off" should be spelled with 2 "f"s. I forgot to "f" "off" and made it "of"... I also added clarity that we parked the Escalade nearby. Fortunately, y'all are smarter than me, but the lack of clarity was bugging me.]

 

[strutaeng]

I installed the heads on this engine I started building nearly 2 years ago. Started as a blown up LQ9 (spun main bearing, bent pushrods/valves) and wound up as an L96 block with new pistons, rebalanced 5.3 crankshaft, refreshed 317 (different) heads, and I can't remember what else now. I think I just reused the rods and misc. parts from the busted engine. Very expensive learning lesson for me. Live and learn.

Originally had bought to swap in to my V6 Silverado, but that one got a 5.3 in the meantime and it's running fine. Another possible candidate was my old beater K3500, but I think I'm gonna sell that truck...so maybe I'll leave it as an extra/spare engine. Still need pushrods and rockers.