So this isn’t good, right?

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Writefast

Writefast

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@Writefast unrelated but one of your exhaust manifold bolts is either missing or broken off.

Both of your pictures are from the driver side and your starter is on the passanger side. Your starter had oil dripping from it which has me curious.

On the driver side you have the oil filter and oil cooler that coil leak.

In the center you have the rear main seal, oil pressure sensor, and valley cover that could leak.

And then on both sides you have the valve covers that could leak.

There is supposed to be a little metal cover that pops in there and prevents the flywheel from being exposed like that.
Yep to the manifold bolts. They’re as far as I can tell all rotting off. Problems for a different day. I’m going to degrease everything and see what turns up. I only shot the drivers side because it’s the only side I could get from the top that showed the block, assuming the block connections might be a problem. I’ll get a shot of the passenger side added.
 
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how many miles on it?


grab some brake clean and spray it all down.. best if you have an air compresor to blow dry, no worries if not. and then keep an eye on it.

from the look of it, I'd best money on oil pan gasket. gasket is fine but gm seals the corners with some kinda rtv that starts seeping and slowly gets worse..

you could check the oil block off plate above the filter, but watch out trying to snug bolts, they torque at such low spec is a little above finger tight lol and if you strip anything it makes everything a 100times harder.
180k miles btw
 

j91z28d1

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I know coolen tastes very sweet but not on purpose and I know what a blast of hydraulic fluid to the face eyes feels like. surprisingly doesn't hurt at all which makes it a very wtf just happened moment as you wait for something bad to happen type thing.

but I try to not taste things on purpose haha. I'll leave that to the old mechanics
 

petethepug

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2010 Denali XL AWD right? Try and work the 6L80 AWD trans service into the stuff below. When the trans is out labor cost are cut 50-90%. There’s routine maint items like:

* replacement of the oil pan gasket
* rear main seal
* 99¢ oil pump O ring
* oil press sensor
* 2 front diff mounts (4 bushes)
* motor mounts
* exh gaskets (optional ARP stud upgrade time).
* Torque converter + service
* 1/2 GM trans cable fix kit

Buy your OEM parts @ R/A and places like parts geek. Save 50-75%. Have an Indi do the job.

On the horizon, for the the long run, research rebuild / upgrade options if the AFM goes south and for the front suspension. Stuff like cylinder head upgrades when AFM dies and / or almost $0 cost to swap to aluminum front suspension components.
 

j91z28d1

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180k miles btw


oil pan gasket.. I'm in the same boat right now and have zero motivation to fix it. I tried resealing the oil block off plate and then bought the billet o'ring block off in hopes but I've come to accept its the oil pan.

I mean it's better than a rear main seal on a 4x4 but still blah. and if you don't mind a few drops on the driveway it's fine
 
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Writefast

Writefast

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2010 Denali XL AWD right? Try and work the 6L80 AWD trans service into the stuff below. When the trans is out labor cost are cut 50-90%. There’s routine maint items like:

* replacement of the oil pan gasket
* rear main seal
* 99¢ oil pump O ring
* oil press sensor
* 2 front diff mounts (4 bushes)
* motor mounts
* exh gaskets (optional ARP stud upgrade time).
* Torque converter + service
* 1/2 GM trans cable fix kit

Buy your OEM parts @ R/A and places like parts geek. Save 50-75%. Have an Indi do the job.

On the horizon, for the the long run, research rebuild / upgrade options if the AFM goes south and for the front suspension. Stuff like cylinder head upgrades when AFM dies and / or almost $0 cost to swap to aluminum front suspension components.
2010 Denali XL AWD right? Try and work the 6L80 AWD trans service into the stuff below. When the trans is out labor cost are cut 50-90%. There’s routine maint items like:

* replacement of the oil pan gasket
* rear main seal
* 99¢ oil pump O ring
* oil press sensor
* 2 front diff mounts (4 bushes)
* motor mounts
* exh gaskets (optional ARP stud upgrade time).
* Torque converter + service
* 1/2 GM trans cable fix kit

Buy your OEM parts @ R/A and places like parts geek. Save 50-75%. Have an Indi do the job.

On the horizon, for the the long run, research rebuild / upgrade options if the AFM goes south and for the front suspension. Stuff like cylinder head upgrades when AFM dies and / or almost $0 cost to swap to aluminum front suspension components.
2007 Yukon SLT. 4L60E. 4wd.
 

j91z28d1

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2010 Denali XL AWD right? Try and work the 6L80 AWD trans service into the stuff below. When the trans is out labor cost are cut 50-90%. There’s routine maint items like:

* replacement of the oil pan gasket
* rear main seal
* 99¢ oil pump O ring
* oil press sensor
* 2 front diff mounts (4 bushes)
* motor mounts
* exh gaskets (optional ARP stud upgrade time).
* Torque converter + service
* 1/2 GM trans cable fix kit

Buy your OEM parts @ R/A and places like parts geek. Save 50-75%. Have an Indi do the job.

On the horizon, for the the long run, research rebuild / upgrade options if the AFM goes south and for the front suspension. Stuff like cylinder head upgrades when AFM dies and / or almost $0 cost to swap to aluminum front suspension components.


I really didn't want to believe it, I thought there had to be some bad luck involved with it. but nope, all this like clock work on every one of them.

welcome to the world
 
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Writefast

Writefast

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I really didn't want to believe it, I thought there had to be some bad luck involved with it. but nope, all this like clock work on every one of them.

welcome to the world
Explain?
 

j91z28d1

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Yep to the manifold bolts. They’re as far as I can tell all rotting off. Problems for a different day. I’m going to degrease everything and see what turns up. I only shot the drivers side because it’s the only side I could get from the top that showed the block, assuming the block connections might be a problem. I’ll get a shot of the passenger side added.



the manifold bolts there's a bracket you can buy for cheap that's eaiser for now than fixing broken bolts. the bracket is a bit of a hassle, but save the bolt repair for when the heads need to come off sometime. there's some good threads here about installing them.
 
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Writefast

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I hate that this thread is adding insult to injury. Sad lol.
 

j91z28d1

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Literally pricing a new motor right now… grrrr.


someone should make a meme about these trucks turning normal people into mechanics every day haha.

there was one for the old dsm cars. the Mitsubishi Eclipses and things like that
 

petethepug

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100k intervals is the part left out of the past post. The major 100k trans service is where owners can catch up on past missed maint. The AFM is the Achilles heel that sometimes never appears. It’s the surprise factor no one likes.

2.5-$3.5k for 100k mi & all those GM OEM parts, labor & tc (if needed) is nut’n when an Indi does it for you.

It’s the fact that not knowing you could have …

* Gone to an Indi.
* Saved 50%+ online for parts.
* Timed the work to lower cost

That makes not having any foresight kick your arse like the old saying that hindsight is always 20/20
 

petethepug

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Prolly my bad throwing the long term 100k / 10yr major trans service and mentioning the AFM in the same breath.

I wonder if I motivated him to do a AFM delete involving some new Edelbrock hi flow / hi performance heads or something.
 

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