Need help with 2010 Hybrid Escalade

[makintoshnex]

fingers crossed you get good news from the shop

No avail, they said that they can't fix it. I will try AAMCO guys. So far they did a good job. If not I would have to junk it. That's I unfortunate I am losing a lot of money. And I still owe 9k to the bank, but as far as I see, I may dump another 2k in it for new booster and it would not help.

 

[j91z28d1]

damn. that's disappointing. this was for the brakes, or the engine misfire?

the major downside of these trucks is finding someone that knows how's they work.

 

[makintoshnex]

damn. that's disappointing. this was for the brakes, or the engine misfire?

the major downside of these trucks is finding someone that knows how's they work.

I asked my mechanic to fix brakes issues. Also he managed to get to the 6 and 8 and replaced coils. Unfortunately brakes still not good. I drove to his shop, I would say it is not the best experience. Tomorrow I am picking it up, and would unload from my junk, take off car seats, and prepair it for sale. But before I want AAMCO to check it. I want estimate of parts and labor. Unfortunately they don't use used parts, only new. Considering aftermarket value of ABS booster it's ranging from 1200$ up to 1500$ + labor. I could assume it would be around 2-3k. If that is true I would dump it for as much as I can. Also I called that dealership that sold me this junk, they say that I have extended warranty. That lasted only from November 2022 till August 2023. Not even a year, and which costed me 2500$. I will try to work with them. Maybe they would take this truck away. I'm ready to pay for towing anywhere, just I don't want to deal with it anymore. I'm so tired you can't even imagine. For that time I owned I made barely 9k miles and dumped around 8 k $ in it. That's financial mistake.

 

[j91z28d1]

I asked my mechanic to fix brakes issues. Also he managed to get to the 6 and 8 and replaced coils. Unfortunately brakes still not good. I drove to his shop, I would say it is not the best experience. Tomorrow I am picking it up, and would unload from my junk, take off car seats, and prepair it for sale. But before I want AAMCO to check it. I want estimate of parts and labor. Unfortunately they don't use used parts, only new. Considering aftermarket value of ABS booster it's ranging from 1200$ up to 1500$ + labor. I could assume it would be around 2-3k. If that is true I would dump it for as much as I can. Also I called that dealership that sold me this junk, they say that I have extended warranty. That lasted only from November 2022 till August 2023. Not even a year, and which costed me 2500$. I will try to work with them. Maybe they would take this truck away. I'm ready to pay for towing anywhere, just I don't want to deal with it anymore. I'm so tired you can't even imagine. For that time I owned I made barely 9k miles and dumped around 8 k $ in it. That's financial mistake.

sorry it's given you so much of a run around. that's a lot of money to put into a used truck.

I've only read one other tread in my searching about the electronic brake module going out. I don't remember the deatils. but I think it was a high mileage truck, like 300k.


I don't blame you for wanting to ditch it and get something else.

 

[j91z28d1]

I feel like this is what I was reading. by the end he does solve it but I didn't get the impression yours what doing the same stuff.

C12D8 No Power Brakes lost all boost - Electric Vehicle Forums

GM Hybrid Trucks, Cadillac Escalade Hybrid, Chevrolet Tahoe Hybrid & GMC Yukon Hybrid - C12D8 No Power Brakes lost all boost - Did a search of the forum but no luck on OBD Code C12D8. Background 2009 Tahoe Hybrid currently has a little over 220k miles. I bought it about 18 mths ago with 195k...

electricvehicleforums.com

I know you're over it. Just sharing the link for info.

 

[BG1988]

I asked my mechanic to fix brakes issues. Also he managed to get to the 6 and 8 and replaced coils. Unfortunately brakes still not good. I drove to his shop, I would say it is not the best experience. Tomorrow I am picking it up, and would unload from my junk, take off car seats, and prepair it for sale. But before I want AAMCO to check it. I want estimate of parts and labor. Unfortunately they don't use used parts, only new. Considering aftermarket value of ABS booster it's ranging from 1200$ up to 1500$ + labor. I could assume it would be around 2-3k. If that is true I would dump it for as much as I can. Also I called that dealership that sold me this junk, they say that I have extended warranty. That lasted only from November 2022 till August 2023. Not even a year, and which costed me 2500$. I will try to work with them. Maybe they would take this truck away. I'm ready to pay for towing anywhere, just I don't want to deal with it anymore. I'm so tired you can't even imagine. For that time I owned I made barely 9k miles and dumped around 8 k $ in it. That's financial mistake.

most of the braking power is from the regeneration it might brake weird if 12volt battery is bad (i.e bad ground cable )

my ground cable is bad as well.. i got a replacement (before the price skyrocketed ) the engine would stall out while braking to a stop,
i know the HV battery is bad but after messing with the 12v ground cable it was much better..

make sure the voltage is reading at lest 14.5 to 14.9volts at the terminals if it's less then that
then you got a bad connection... and you're going to have a bad time
also have the 12v load tested

i still haven't put the new cable as i can't get the old one off it's on there good

 

[makintoshnex]

most of the braking power is from the regeneration it might brake weird if 12volt battery is bad (i.e bad ground cable )

my ground cable is bad as well.. i got a replacement (before the price skyrocketed ) the engine would stall out while braking to a stop,
i know the HV battery is bad but after messing with the 12v ground cable it was much better..

make sure the voltage is reading at lest 14.5 to 14.9volts at the terminals if it's less then that
then you got a bad connection... and you're going to have a bad time
also have the 12v load tested

i still haven't put the new cable as i can't get the old one off it's on there good

I got new H6 battery just now. From AutoZone, under warranty. I bought some tester and it was pretty bad . Right after I installed it and pressed brake pedal I got same code for no boost. Plus I got a tons of new stuff . I dropped code but I still have issues. Same light is on. So far I lean to replacement of booster. Only thing is to find right part.

 

[BG1988]

what is the charging voltage 14.3-14.9v is where you want it at when it's running.. it should be at that all the time...
the new battery was faulty?

 

[makintoshnex]

what is the charging voltage 14.3-14.9v is where you want it at when it's running.. it should be at that all the time...
the new battery was faulty?

That duralast gold that I purchased a year ago was faulty. I replaced it under warranty for new one. It's holding charge steady. No self discharge. 12.6 on new battery. I tested cranking, and charging so far 14.6 and steady. So I doubt that is the bad battery. My module is faulty. I had a big hope for battery but unfortunately that is not it. I will try to obtain negative terminal from Rock Auto and try to replace it. So far I get too deep in this truck so probably I would be able to remove bumper and unbolt that connector. Only thing I haven't tried, is to simulate frame to body connection. If negative terminal is bad so I have 2 bad connections on engine block and frame. I will try to thow a wire to a frame and directly to negative terminal. We'll see.

 

[j91z28d1]

the common thing on all these codes seem to be voltage below threshold and calibration lost, most likely they lost cal from lost voltage?

seems like a voltage issue to me. have you been able to check the volt at the abs pump motor? the one that builds the boost that's missing?

did you clean up the fuse box terminals while it was apart?

not the clearest Pic, but I'm like. 90% sure this is the hybrid ebcm wiring. it's all I can find on it.

you could check for voltage at fuse 61 ABS1 40A and fuse 59 ABS2 60A and see if the voltage crashes when you step on the brake to load the circuit there. much harder to check at the plug on the ebcm, I know it's a nightmare to get to. but it's pin 1 and 25 of it. looks like ground is pin 13 and 38 they tie together and then run to ground point g300. that might be worth cleaning too. it's #3 in the location pic.

I'm still not 100% sure what you're chasing, I thought it was an cyl misfire and then somehow because a brake issue. was the brake bad from the beginning or did it start while trying to fix the misfire? it all seems voltage related, either fuse box or I know we keep saying grounds, but especially up north, it's almost always a ground.

good luck man. nothing on this truck is easy.

 

[BG1988]

That duralast gold that I purchased a year ago was faulty. I replaced it under warranty for new one. It's holding charge steady. No self discharge. 12.6 on new battery. I tested cranking, and charging so far 14.6 and steady. So I doubt that is the bad battery. My module is faulty. I had a big hope for battery but unfortunately that is not it. I will try to obtain negative terminal from Rock Auto and try to replace it. So far I get too deep in this truck so probably I would be able to remove bumper and unbolt that connector. Only thing I haven't tried, is to simulate frame to body connection. If negative terminal is bad so I have 2 bad connections on engine block and frame. I will try to thow a wire to a frame and directly to negative terminal. We'll see.

take some photos of you replacing it I need to do mine my self but i'm clueless as to where the tiny wire goes.. i know it goes under radiator somewhere

 

[j91z28d1]

take some photos of you replacing it I need to do mine my self but i'm clueless as to where the tiny wire goes.. i know it goes under radiator somewhere

I think you're looking for g103 on this?

 

[makintoshnex]

Ok. Ok. Houston, we have a problem. Yesterday was pretty rainy and heavy winds. I have a huge gap in hood. So wind blew under one direction. Got flooded fuse box. Upon inspection I found some bad relays . Pretty corroded. I doubt that it happened only for one night. I already ordered 5 of them from Rock Auto. Unfortunately I can't find where to get that negative battery cable. I don't have part number for it. I know it it mounts somewhere under front left or right tow hook. I assume that is for frame connection. As far as I get it. One line goes to engine, which goes to cabin by connecting block to firewall through that mash cable, that negative thin cable goes to a frame and should mount at tow hook . I can simulate frame to block connection simply by taping into a frame, I got some terminals and will try to do something. But that is going to be next week. I been into few dealerships, well prices and rates are bad, pretty bad . New Toyota crown which I like is 40k and it's rated is 5%, used Highlander 2018 with 65k miles 27k and rates at 10%.that nuts. I need to fix this Cadillac ASAP, and try to make it on budget.

 

[j91z28d1]

feels like you're on to something.

I believe if you lift the 2 gray levers on the fuse box, the top will come off, and you can clean everything with some contact cleaner and a soft wire brush. might even unbolt the whole thing and look at the under side too.


for the ground cable, probably have to take the battery out and maybe some plastic panels, to find that G101 ground. like maybe the inner fender liner? I had to do that to get to my fog lights. my software just says lower left front of engine compartment. looks like on the diagram that it's also a ground point for a few other things too, so it's probably worth cleaning, even thou it feels like your fuse box getting wet might be the main issue.

on a side note, I was looking around the other night in my scanner options and saw a window calibration option. I had always wondered why your scanner was showing a window lost cal fault. I didn't even know that was possible ha. but I guess it's a thing.

 

[j91z28d1]

the ac Delco web site lists this for your Cady. I'm not sure it looks right and man it's expensive. you might have to stop by a dealership parts department to look it up forsure.

Site Maintenance

 

[makintoshnex]

the ac Delco web site lists this for your Cady. I'm not sure it looks right and man it's expensive. you might have to stop by a dealership parts department to look it up forsure.

Site Maintenance

I don't think that thing is right part. Doesn't look like mine .
But good tips and few minutes on Googling gave me this.
Limited-time deal: GM 92247215 Black Door Window Switch https://a.co/d/0qWGkEn
100$ that's 3 times cheaper than on official site
Also found on Rock Auto same item.
I can make a bet if I go to eBay I would get it even cheaper. For me the really cheapest way is to make my own. I have some C terminals and also I have 6 AWG wire, I can get 2 and 4 at work. Battery terminals I can scrap from existing. Probably make my own would be better option because I would be able to tap in directly into metal, I can apply some Zink from Zink batteries so place would not be corroded anymore.

 

[makintoshnex]

feels like you're on to something.

I believe if you lift the 2 gray levers on the fuse box, the top will come off, and you can clean everything with some contact cleaner and a soft wire brush. might even unbolt the whole thing and look at the under side too.


for the ground cable, probably have to take the battery out and maybe some plastic panels, to find that G101 ground. like maybe the inner fender liner? I had to do that to get to my fog lights. my software just says lower left front of engine compartment. looks like on the diagram that it's also a ground point for a few other things too, so it's probably worth cleaning, even thou it feels like your fuse box getting wet might be the main issue.

on a side note, I was looking around the other night in my scanner options and saw a window calibration option. I had always wondered why your scanner was showing a window lost cal fault. I didn't even know that was possible ha. but I guess it's a thing.

I could find that calibration thing. Probably I need another scanner.

 

[j91z28d1]

I could find that calibration thing. Probably I need another scanner.

since you're kinda stuck with it and this deep. I feel like it might be time to get a cheap clone tech 2 and access to a full shop manual. something like alldata will have all the trouble shooting trees for every fault code. all the wiring diagrama and an explanation of how each system works and is trouble shoot.

it's like 19$ a month for access for one personal vehicle. kinda stuff shops use, but pay $1000s for unlimited access. it's really worth having for things like this.

Do It Yourself Automotive Repair Information | ALLDATA DIY

Single-vehicle access to OEM diagnostic and repair information for the student and the do-it-yourself mechanic. Includes wiring diagrams, TSBs, DTCs. Powered by ALLDATA.

www.alldata.com

 

[BG1988]

Ok. Ok. Houston, we have a problem. Yesterday was pretty rainy and heavy winds. I have a huge gap in hood. So wind blew under one direction. Got flooded fuse box. Upon inspection I found some bad relays . Pretty corroded. I doubt that it happened only for one night. I already ordered 5 of them from Rock Auto. Unfortunately I can't find where to get that negative battery cable. I don't have part number for it. I know it it mounts somewhere under front left or right tow hook. I assume that is for frame connection. As far as I get it. One line goes to engine, which goes to cabin by connecting block to firewall through that mash cable, that negative thin cable goes to a frame and should mount at tow hook . I can simulate frame to block connection simply by taping into a frame, I got some terminals and will try to do something. But that is going to be next week. I been into few dealerships, well prices and rates are bad, pretty bad . New Toyota crown which I like is 40k and it's rated is 5%, used Highlander 2018 with 65k miles 27k and rates at 10%.that nuts. I need to fix this Cadillac ASAP, and try to make it on budget.

i'll get you the part number from my cable

 

[BG1988]

I don't think that thing is right part. Doesn't look like mine .
But good tips and few minutes on Googling gave me this.
Limited-time deal: GM 92247215 Black Door Window Switch https://a.co/d/0qWGkEn
100$ that's 3 times cheaper than on official site
Also found on Rock Auto same item.
I can make a bet if I go to eBay I would get it even cheaper. For me the really cheapest way is to make my own. I have some C terminals and also I have 6 AWG wire, I can get 2 and 4 at work. Battery terminals I can scrap from existing. Probably make my own would be better option because I would be able to tap in directly into metal, I can apply some Zink from Zink batteries so place would not be corroded anymore.

2008-2013 Chevy GMC caddlic hybrid negative battery cable with sensor

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115865012306?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 ask them for an actual photo first