Need help with 2010 Hybrid Escalade

[makintoshnex]

the throttle body is just a air valve these days.. there's no fuel running to it like the old days.

that's why I was wondering if the spark plugs in those 2 cyl were wet with fuel. that could mean the fuel injectors for those 2 cyl are stuck open a bit. you might look at the fuel pressure on your scanner. it should be 45-50 psi running and when it goes into auto stop, it seems to creep up, I guess from the heat build up. but if you see it falling pretty quickly, you might have a leaky injector.

is it possible what you're seeing is oil? these ls engines without the upgraded oil baffle in the valve cover are known to suck a lot of oil in to the intake. it tends to puddle around places. it's not great for the engine but doesn't normally cause big problems.

Ok. I agree with you 100 percent. I hooked it up a scanner , I found something I couldn't see each injector. But I have combined from the bank 1 and the bank 2. I going to add the chart down below. I used two different scanners but probably they have the same software so I got very similar results. The only thing I have is the misfire on number five which doesn't explain what they had the codes for one and 7. Next week are going to make it appointment for our mechanic that fixes our shop vehicles. We mostly have GM, different kind of vans. There's also one thing that bothers me is that hissing sound . I can not determine from where it's coming. I going to order just in case new injector and try to replace it. But I wonder can I replace the injector without removing the whole manifold and that fuel line the whole thing????

 

[makintoshnex]

Here is the chart of injections.

 

[makintoshnex]

I installed new throttle , got oil on o ring

 

[j91z28d1]

did the throttle body help? I've seen a lot of threads about them helping with throttle response when replaced. I've been curious if it helps much on the hybrids since they do have a bit of delay on the throttle, atleast mine does.

as for the missfire count, I don't do a ton of drivability trouble shooting, but depending on the car and software, if it's not increasing the number while it's running, I don't know that the history count really tells you everything, it's a bit random. if you can watch the missfire live data while it's missing, that would insure it's #5. if it will miss fire a idle, you can do the old school test of pulling the injector plug off, and see if the engine runs worse or not. if nothing changes, you know it was that cyl missing. if it runs worse, than that cyl was firing. you can pull the plug was too, but normally that will shock you haha. so not recommend without a tool.

for the hissing, most mechanic shops have a smoke machine, it pumps a harmless smoke into the intake and shows any leaks. your shop might be able to do that for you..

the injector data in the scanner is telling you the amount of time ecm is commanding the injectors to open. it can show you if for some reason they aren't all the same, or if more or less at idle than expected, that there's a something telling the ecm to add or subtract fuel. but it doesn't really tell you much about the injector itself. it can be clogged or damaged without the ecm knowing about it. there's places you can take them that will clean and flow test them. depending on the cost, sometimes just replacing them is pretty close to the same money. I'd hate to see you just throw money at them and it not be it thou, that's why I was asking what the spark plugs look like, for signs of to much fuel running rich, or super clean like they just came out of the box, meaning it's a lean miss. also how the fuel pressure acts after the engine is off, in hopes you can see if they are leaking down by losing pressure pretty quickly.

it's all just in the hopes of seeing something wrong without spending money on parts that don't fix it. I hate doing that lol, and feel bad watching other people do it.


but in the end, nothing beats having a good mechanic look at it in person. only so much you can do online.

 

[makintoshnex]

did the throttle body help? I've seen a lot of threads about them helping with throttle response when replaced. I've been curious if it helps much on the hybrids since they do have a bit of delay on the throttle, atleast mine does.

as for the missfire count, I don't do a ton of drivability trouble shooting, but depending on the car and software, if it's not increasing the number while it's running, I don't know that the history count really tells you everything, it's a bit random. if you can watch the missfire live data while it's missing, that would insure it's #5. if it will miss fire a idle, you can do the old school test of pulling the injector plug off, and see if the engine runs worse or not. if nothing changes, you know it was that cyl missing. if it runs worse, than that cyl was firing. you can pull the plug was too, but normally that will shock you haha. so not recommend without a tool.

for the hissing, most mechanic shops have a smoke machine, it pumps a harmless smoke into the intake and shows any leaks. your shop might be able to do that for you..

the injector data in the scanner is telling you the amount of time ecm is commanding the injectors to open. it can show you if for some reason they aren't all the same, or if more or less at idle than expected, that there's a something telling the ecm to add or subtract fuel. but it doesn't really tell you much about the injector itself. it can be clogged or damaged without the ecm knowing about it. there's places you can take them that will clean and flow test them. depending on the cost, sometimes just replacing them is pretty close to the same money. I'd hate to see you just throw money at them and it not be it thou, that's why I was asking what the spark plugs look like, for signs of to much fuel running rich, or super clean like they just came out of the box, meaning it's a lean miss. also how the fuel pressure acts after the engine is off, in hopes you can see if they are leaking down by losing pressure pretty quickly.

it's all just in the hopes of seeing something wrong without spending money on parts that don't fix it. I hate doing that lol, and feel bad watching other people do it.


but in the end, nothing beats having a good mechanic look at it in person. only so much you can do online.

I will talk to our shop mechanic. He fixes most of our vans, we have mostly GM few Ford and Nissan, but he does service and inspections on all of them. He says that he can fix that thing.
Abound throttle body. I installed Hitachi, Korean build. All mechanics works way better than old one. Way smoother. About acceleration I started to hear a sound like from supercharger, we have a few spots when in order to get to highway you got to accelerate pretty fast in order to jump into a line, like fast acceleration from 15 mph to 45. That's when I hear that sound. It's probably because new throttle, more air, more compression, and meaning more leaks so I think that makes the sound. But overall at least something new and shiny under the hood. I try to keep that truck running. It's really hard to find a vehicle to replace it. Especially I got 2 small kids, 2 car seats next to each other, plus my wife on a back next to them. Currently I'm looking something for replacement but size wise nothing coming up.

 

[makintoshnex]

Story repeats. Now I have code for coil 7, but I just replaced it. 1 and 7 brand new original.
And once I plugged in AFM disabler check engine light gone, and engine was running as usual. It coil is short probably I have electrical issues in this truck. YOU can not even image how this vehicle pisses me off. Time for trade in currently I don't think that it would survive another 10 or 20 k without serious money investment

 

[BG1988]

Alright today was really rainy day in Brooklyn. I drove like 2 miles. Vehicle started as usual, light shaking, nothing more. Btw I already ordered new MAF and o2 sensors. I was hoping that that would cure misfire. So I took a trip, hit couple of put holes , parked. After 45 minutes I started the engine, it started to shake like crazy . I looked at exhaust I already saw it was puffing. I hooked up scanner and got codes for 1 and 7. It's not the first time I'm getting those codes. About good 9 months ago I had the same situation. Same rainy day. I bet any managed to get out from the underground parking. I had the same impulses into gearbox, I could not move the vehicle when the engine was idling, neither D or R I felt bangs and vehicle was jumping. I went to shop 2 days after, I was amazed that it started as usual after sitting for some time. Shop diagnostics said faulty 1and 7. So they changed coils. Had it only 2 times since than. I have 2 new original coils. Should I try to do o2 sensors+ MAF+ coils. Or it makes no sense??? And I should better invest in that cylinder deactivation system. Or something is getting wet and this happens???

Lot of ground wires in the engine bay

 

[j91z28d1]

Lot of ground wires in the engine bay

Definitely wouldn't hurt to clean that front ground on the driver's side head.. that one seems to come up often.

 

[makintoshnex]

Definitely wouldn't hurt to clean that front ground on the driver's side head.. that one seems to come up often.

I have a question. Frame , body, engine and - terminals on 12v battery are all in one chain. So basically if I have bad grounding somewhere in between, can I add additional grounding wires just to make sure I have good connection???

 

[j91z28d1]

I have a question. Frame , body, engine and - terminals on 12v battery are all in one chain. So basically if I have bad grounding somewhere in between, can I add additional grounding wires just to make sure I have good connection???

it most likely will be OK, but there is something called ground loops that you can create in cars. I don't fully understand it, but I'm told it's a thing, and it's better to repair the factory grounds than to just add a few random ones.


one thing you can do is check voltage drop.. if you have a meter, you can say put the black lead in the neg battery terminal and the red lead on the engine block.. if the ground is good, you'll have 0v but if grounds are bad, you can read a 1 to 2 or even more v on the meter and that gives and idea of how bad the grounds are. the good thing about doing it this way, is you can do it with a load on the circuit. a Lotta things will show a good connection, till you need to draw 50amps thru it and then resistance goes thru the roof.

you can definitely do temp grounds as a trouble shooting technique. add a ground from batt to block, if the issue goes away, you know you need to repair something.

 

[makintoshnex]

it most likely will be OK, but there is something called ground loops that you can create in cars. I don't fully understand it, but I'm told it's a thing, and it's better to repair the factory grounds than to just add a few random ones.


one thing you can do is check voltage drop.. if you have a meter, you can say put the black lead in the neg battery terminal and the red lead on the engine block.. if the ground is good, you'll have 0v but if grounds are bad, you can read a 1 to 2 or even more v on the meter and that gives and idea of how bad the grounds are. the good thing about doing it this way, is you can do it with a load on the circuit. a Lotta things will show a good connection, till you need to draw 50amps thru it and then resistance goes thru the roof.

you can definitely do temp grounds as a trouble shooting technique. add a ground from batt to block, if the issue goes away, you know you need to repair something.

No, not helping at all.

here is the video. I got new ticking sound that's come and go. Can't define what is wrong. Been in couple of mechanic shops and one said that would be complete engine rebuild, another said that he needs to do teardown to find what is wrong. Neither or, would be cheap. Still have to pay bank about 9k for this trash. I don't know why people driving their Sequoia and tundras, with 300 000 miles and have no issues with engine driveshafts etc. why GM is so trash??? In order to make it work again I have to invest another 2-5 k. I did appraisal dealer gives me 5 k for Caddy, if I add another 4 k I would pay it off and get rid of it for good, or invest and hope for good. Currently I'm on cross road ️ , stuck and don't know what route to choose.

 

[j91z28d1]

huh.. that doesn't sound like lifter tap to me.. that sounds more like spark to me. it's really fast.

if you open the hood at night without any light, you might be able to see it.

it's been a while, remind me again, the miss comes and goes when you drive it, or it misses all the time? and what have you done? new plugs, (hopefully not Delco from Amazon) plug wires and coil pack on that cyl or swap pack to another location to see it the miss follows?

I was going to say yeah from like 2008 when gm added the afm lifters and stuff they just don't go 300k like they used to. before then they did but the afm lifters need fresh oil and the factory says you can do 10k on the oil, which you can't if you want it to last over the 130-150k that they all fail at. gm needed to set the oil change light at 4-5k on this afm stuff. but it was long out of warranty, so they didn't care. the new LT ones are even worse. their afm stuff is failing under warranty so gm is freaking out. my buddy just rented a 2023 suburban for a holiday trip, and he said it never went into 4cyl mode. they seem to have turned it off at that factory after having such a high failure rate and parts shortage to fix it.

sucks you're stuck upside down with a broken truck. I've seen it a few times on this board. one guy bought a used one for the family, engine valve train failed a 1000 miles after he got it. ended up having to pull more loans and wait a month for a reman engine to be put in. at that point dude is 25k plus into something worth 10k on a good day. another kid has one, sounds like he can bearly make the payment, owes away more than they will give him on a trade in and it's a ticking time bomb waiting to leave him stuck. the non hybrid ones on top of the afm lifters. eating themselves, the torque converter in the 6 speed trannys eats itself about 120k and takes the tranny with it. there's a good 5-8k$ rebuild too. it's all brutal if you're not a mechanic, these trucks will turn you into one. something like a afm delete kit. can be done yourself for $1k and upgrade the cam for more power, but a shop won't even try that for you, they just wanna swap in a new engine. same with that tranny, catch it before it goes out and you can put a upgraded bullit converter in and be good for long time. cheap ish to do yourself. nightmare to pay a shop, most don't even want to install aftermarket parts, so they put another stock one in.

but with all that said, maybe someone else can listen and notice something I don't. but it doesn't sound like valve train to me.. since this isn't hybrid specific, just engine related. you might post this sound clip under the engine/drivetrain section that has way more traffic. no one really looks in hybrid section cause it's mostly questions about why my hybrid battery is dead type of thing.

*edit. as for cutting your losses and buying a Toyota. honestly, as much as I enjoy this hybrid yukon and since I work on my own stuff, I will keep it because I find it interesting. but if I was in your position, I'd probably dump it for a loss and find. something else.

just my 2 cents.

 

[makintoshnex]

huh.. that doesn't sound like lifter tap to me.. that sounds more like spark to me. it's really fast.

if you open the hood at night without any light, you might be able to see it.

it's been a while, remind me again, the miss comes and goes when you drive it, or it misses all the time? and what have you done? new plugs, (hopefully not Delco from Amazon) plug wires and coil pack on that cyl or swap pack to another location to see it the miss follows?

I was going to say yeah from like 2008 when gm added the afm lifters and stuff they just don't go 300k like they used to. before then they did but the afm lifters need fresh oil and the factory says you can do 10k on the oil, which you can't if you want it to last over the 130-150k that they all fail at. gm needed to set the oil change light at 4-5k on this afm stuff. but it was long out of warranty, so they didn't care. the new LT ones are even worse. their afm stuff is failing under warranty so gm is freaking out. my buddy just rented a 2023 suburban for a holiday trip, and he said it never went into 4cyl mode. they seem to have turned it off at that factory after having such a high failure rate and parts shortage to fix it.

sucks you're stuck upside down with a broken truck. I've seen it a few times on this board. one guy bought a used one for the family, engine valve train failed a 1000 miles after he got it. ended up having to pull more loans and wait a month for a reman engine to be put in. at that point dude is 25k plus into something worth 10k on a good day. another kid has one, sounds like he can bearly make the payment, owes away more than they will give him on a trade in and it's a ticking time bomb waiting to leave him stuck. the non hybrid ones on top of the afm lifters. eating themselves, the torque converter in the 6 speed trannys eats itself about 120k and takes the tranny with it. there's a good 5-8k$ rebuild too. it's all brutal if you're not a mechanic, these trucks will turn you into one. something like a afm delete kit. can be done yourself for $1k and upgrade the cam for more power, but a shop won't even try that for you, they just wanna swap in a new engine. same with that tranny, catch it before it goes out and you can put a upgraded bullit converter in and be good for long time. cheap ish to do yourself. nightmare to pay a shop, most don't even want to install aftermarket parts, so they put another stock one in.

but with all that said, maybe someone else can listen and notice something I don't. but it doesn't sound like valve train to me.. since this isn't hybrid specific, just engine related. you might post this sound clip under the engine/drivetrain section that has way more traffic. no one really looks in hybrid section cause it's mostly questions about why my hybrid battery is dead type of thing.

*edit. as for cutting your losses and buying a Toyota. honestly, as much as I enjoy this hybrid yukon and since I work on my own stuff, I will keep it because I find it interesting. but if I was in your position, I'd probably dump it for a loss and find. something else.

just my 2 cents.

Yeah I'm thinking about same thing. I bought original spark plugs from AutoZone, got wires from rock auto, most of my stuff is rock auto. God knows what is wrong with it. Only one thing worries me the most I had Stabilitrack service at a speed of 65 I barely managed to stop. Probably I should fix minor stuff and trade it in till it is no too late. I try to make oil changes like 4-5 k. But it doesn't matter for this engine. It misfires on idle, I really don't see much of a loss of power on high speeds. Recently I noticed like smell o burning plastic from behind of a truck. I noticed when we did a big trip to Manhattan. It mostly smells like burning parahine candles but a bit concentrated smell. Hope nothing serious, maybe some plastic bag stuck to muffler. I don't smell anything inside only outside.

 

[j91z28d1]

if it's spark related like it sounds like to me, you got unburnted fuel form that cyl being dumped into the cats, which causes it to get hot when they run rich. probably the smell youre smelling. to the point they can get hot enough to melt the Platinum grid inside. at that point it will plug up and need replaced.

I see posts about Stabilitrack being linked to missing cyl quite a bit. they seemed to be linked in the computer. like if you've got a bad running engine it doesn't want to engage Stabilitrack to make things worse. so it disables it and throws both codes asking you to fix it.


try to look at night in a very dark area under the hood, like zero light. I bet you'll see a blue spark up under a coil pack or something, where spark is jumping to a bracket or something before it gets to the spark plug.

 

[makintoshnex]

if it's spark related like it sounds like to me, you got unburnted fuel form that cyl being dumped into the cats, which causes it to get hot when they run rich. probably the smell youre smelling. to the point they can get hot enough to melt the Platinum grid inside. at that point it will plug up and need replaced.

I see posts about Stabilitrack being linked to missing cyl quite a bit. they seemed to be linked in the computer. like if you've got a bad running engine it doesn't want to engage Stabilitrack to make things worse. so it disables it and throws both codes asking you to fix it.


try to look at night in a very dark area under the hood, like zero light. I bet you'll see a blue spark up under a coil pack or something, where spark is jumping to a bracket or something before it gets to the spark plug.

Nope nothing like that. No blue ark. I been to your repair shop, that usually fixes our work vans, we have mostly GM. He replaced 4 o2 sensors. Well it helped till certain point. Also he stated that there is no active codes. I drove it for a good 4 miles parked yesterday, this evening I started in order to move it from street cleaning. Well that misfire came back. As far as I can see I need to dump this vehicle as fast as I can, and get myself a lease or buy Japanese shit box and enjoy life. Unfortunately so far I can not find clean unwrecked vehicle from any of dealerships near me. Carfax is clean but according to visual inspection they have been into serious fender bender. And there might be a hidden damage. I still have to pay 9k for financing for this Escalade.

 

[j91z28d1]

the south main auto place? that's a shame, from his youtube he seems to know his gm trouble shooting, but being youtube, no one is going to make themselves look bad I guess plus if it wasn't currently missing, it would be hard to find anything.

man that's rough. I got nothing. gotta be some reason for it, but I don't know what.

just to be clear I was thinking, well hoping it was missing while you check for a spark from the coil body to metal bracket it's in. and you've shaken the coil pack wires and plugs around by hand while it's missing to see if it goes away? checked to make sure that one spark plug was tight. I've heard of that. loose the plug has not ground and the spark jumps someplace else before getting to the plug tip in the cyl.

without being at a shop with tools ready to trouble shoot while it's missing. it's going to be very hard to find this one.

feel for you man. I'm so used to seeing nothing but hard to figure out problems with the hybrid system. it's a shame what should be a simple engine missfire has been so hard to fix.

 

[makintoshnex]

the south main auto place? that's a shame, from his youtube he seems to know his gm trouble shooting, but being youtube, no one is going to make themselves look bad I guess plus if it wasn't currently missing, it would be hard to find anything.

man that's rough. I got nothing. gotta be some reason for it, but I don't know what.

just to be clear I was thinking, well hoping it was missing while you check for a spark from the coil body to metal bracket it's in. and you've shaken the coil pack wires and plugs around by hand while it's missing to see if it goes away? checked to make sure that one spark plug was tight. I've heard of that. loose the plug has not ground and the spark jumps someplace else before getting to the plug tip in the cyl.

without being at a shop with tools ready to trouble shoot while it's missing. it's going to be very hard to find this one.

feel for you man. I'm so used to seeing nothing but hard to figure out problems with the hybrid system. it's a shame what should be a simple engine missfire has been so hard to fix.

Ok I'm a bit frustrated currently. Still figuring out what piece of crap currently dealerships offer for sale. 2017 sienna certified pre-owned, clean Carfax, all beaten up, huge over spray, non original hood and driver side headlight. Ok I decided to dig in a bit into my Cadillac while looking for replacement. I checked my scan tool so I found only one thing misfire on cylinder 5. Here is that wire. Thought wire is new. How come. I bought it on Amazon, but original AC Delco. Here is its replaced with AutoZone duralast. It's a bit longer, but seems ok. Also I got into crc supply, love them. Help all the time. I will try to replace all that I can reach. Except probably for last 3 on passenger side , it's really hard to get there. I wonder why there was white gunk inside of a spark boot.

 

[j91z28d1]

the white if it feels like grease might be white lithium grease. I have seen it talked about being used before. but your dielectric is the correct stuff.

there's been more than one case of Amazon delco parts looking correct but being junk. they got me on a oil pressure sensor. and another guy on spark plugs. he had a miss, said plugs were new. when he said got them from Amazon someone said try some new ones. got a set local and it fixed it.


if you can while you're in there, you might unbolt the coil from 5 and switch it with 1. see if your miss fire follows the coil if wires don't fix it. should be a plug and a few bolts to swap while you're there.

 

[makintoshnex]

the white if it feels like grease might be white lithium grease. I have seen it talked about being used before. but your dielectric is the correct stuff.

there's been more than one case of Amazon delco parts looking correct but being junk. they got me on a oil pressure sensor. and another guy on spark plugs. he had a miss, said plugs were new. when he said got them from Amazon someone said try some new ones. got a set local and it fixed it.


if you can while you're in there, you might unbolt the coil from 5 and switch it with 1. see if your miss fire follows the coil if wires don't fix it. should be a plug and a few bolts to swap while you're there.

I acquired some new boots and heat protection for them. I love how they are made and looks. 2 new coils are on the way. I will try to work a bit on it tomorrow. I got my parts from Rock Auto

 

[makintoshnex]

I replaced 4 wires and coil on 5 still same thing. Delfy coil . Now it's random misfire.