Need help with 2010 Hybrid Escalade

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makintoshnex

makintoshnex

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I found some expensive stuff. If my fuse box is not good, there is big chance. I found it on eBay. New is like 375$. I think it worth to look into that hybrid fuse box and firewall fuse box as well. Something is off.
 

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BG1988

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makintoshnex

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since you're kinda stuck with it and this deep. I feel like it might be time to get a cheap clone tech 2 and access to a full shop manual. something like alldata will have all the trouble shooting trees for every fault code. all the wiring diagrama and an explanation of how each system works and is trouble shoot.

it's like 19$ a month for access for one personal vehicle. kinda stuff shops use, but pay $1000s for unlimited access. it's really worth having for things like this.


I was about to say almost same but in different words. I have an old 2007 Sony Laptop, I just need Windows XP, and that clone of tech to win, from Amazon. I tried this before, but I couldn't install that emulator for Windows XP. I managed somehow to make it run, but there was no communication between scanner and software. I will try again. So far I can't go anywhere on my Cadillac.
 

j91z28d1

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I just have the hand held tech 2. it was 300$ and seems to work well for me. I don't fully understand how the laptop part works, but I think that's only needed to program modules?

the hand held tech2 would be good for trouble shooting
 
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makintoshnex

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I just have the hand held tech 2. it was 300$ and seems to work well for me. I don't fully understand how the laptop part works, but I think that's only needed to program modules?

the hand held tech2 would be good for trouble shooting
I know about those handheld, but they are too expensive and mostly come from China.
The one I was talking about is this VXDIAG VCX Nano GDS2 and Tech2Win Diagnostic Programming System for GM/Opel WiFi Version https://a.co/d/8S5D60W
That's technically emulator of same thing, but all calculus goes through software on laptop, I. Order to run software I need Windows XP.
 

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j91z28d1

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yeah. that's the one. I've been meaning to pick one up just to play with. I have a old xp laptop from the obd1 prom tuning days that still works.

but when it came time to get something on hand incase this yukon gives me trouble. I just went with the China hand held tech 2. less of a learning curve. but if I ever need to program a module, like say if you'll need to do if it is the ebcm that's bad, not just a lack of power getting to it. I'll need one like that.
 
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makintoshnex

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Ok, I took that fuse box inside of my apartment, and too it apart, piece by piece. I had some really bad corrosion, I cleaned fuses with alcohol and some 500grid sponge, also I cleaned board with CRC Contact cleaner.
And assembled it, I'm missing 3 relays 13500114, which I ordered from Amazon, I think Delfy is manufacturer, also I replaced 2 relays 15328864 , just simply because they were Old and were wet.
 

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makintoshnex

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Just got 2 new relays
 

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j91z28d1

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I don't know about the black ones, but if you pull the 4 pin Grey ones, make sure what way they go back in. I had an issue with my heater pump wasn't running, after some trouble shooting it ended up being the relay in backwards. must have been something done before I got it.

if you need, I can take a pic of mine for you before you put it back on if you might have mixed any up.

and yeah, that fuse looks like it's definitely had a bad connection.
 
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makintoshnex

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I don't know about the black ones, but if you pull the 4 pin Grey ones, make sure what way they go back in. I had an issue with my heater pump wasn't running, after some trouble shooting it ended up being the relay in backwards. must have been something done before I got it.

if you need, I can take a pic of mine for you before you put it back on if you might have mixed any up.

and yeah, that fuse looks like it's definitely had a bad connection.
Here is my finished product . New relays from standard ry601
 

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makintoshnex

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I cleaned connections, but I couldn't remove the box. So there should be another negative terminal under this box??? Also I cleaned connections on negative terminal.
 

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makintoshnex

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Unfortunately that didn't help at all. Too cold . Too wet. I think I need to do something else.
 
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makintoshnex

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I created some new connection. I had some terminals, I have some 12 AWG, so I soldered wire inside of terminal. Tomorrow I will tap into a frame and connect to negative terminal on the battery. I hope in this way I would be able to bypass something. I was really disappointed with that fuse box. I really hoped that it would work. If that would not work the only way is to ammco, they have parking lot, other shops in neighborhood don't have any. As far as I was taught by few mechanics this is not an easy fix. Needs a lot of digging inside. Nobody is willing to do anything.
 

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j91z28d1

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I really thought you were on to something too.

this has to be the worst time of year to be working outside on this. brutal.

I just wish there was a way to test the voltage at the plug for the brake module. that would tell a lot. but without a lift and a warm shop, I just don't know how you'd reach any of it.

you guys have tons of prius taxis up there right? I wonder if you can find the shop they use that's used to dealing with hybrids.
 
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makintoshnex

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Ok, so what I've done here. Looks stupid but I wanted to make sure it worth drilling. So I connected to top arm mounting bolt. Nothing literally nothing, when ingnition is off no Abs light, when ignition is on no Abs light, only when I press brake pedal. And after I turn it ignition off it cycles, and repeat same thing. I spoke with PA Auto Would, the guys that sold me this trash. I broke right after service contact expired. Maybe I should talk to Westlake Financial, maybe there can take it back. Thought I have 9 k and 3 years to go. But for real I don't want to deal with this truck anymore. Repair probably would cost another 2500$.
 

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j91z28d1

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I would be completely tired of it and frustratied too. I keep hoping you'll stumbled only a reason it doesn't have power to the brake system. did you ever get a chance to test power at the main fuse running to it while hitting the brakes. see if it hold up 12v or better under load.

there's also the ground for the brake module under the chassis at the cross member somewhere. if that is bad, even if the chassis to battery you're doing is good, that connection is how the brake module gets its ground. it's a long shot and I'm sure horrible to try and find under it.
 
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makintoshnex

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I would be completely tired of it and frustratied too. I keep hoping you'll stumbled only a reason it doesn't have power to the brake system. did you ever get a chance to test power at the main fuse running to it while hitting the brakes. see if it hold up 12v or better under load.

there's also the ground for the brake module under the chassis at the cross member somewhere. if that is bad, even if the chassis to battery you're doing is good, that connection is how the brake module gets its ground. it's a long shot and I'm sure horrible to try and find under it.
Nah, I think, I will trade it in as it is. So far I'm really tired of constant waiting in line in repair shops. Getting from work earlier just because I have an appointment in some shop, and when I get there there's already some vehicle on a lift. So they move me to other day. Plus engine started to misfire again. Thought I replaced all coils. This vehicle is trash. Let me talk to a bank, maybe they would be able to take it away from me.
 

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j91z28d1

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does your scanner have the automatic brake bleed option? if so, try running that. Just don't open the bleeders when it tells you to. Just follow thru and hit next as if you did.

can't hurt anything and you're trading it off anyways. that will try to activate all the abs stuff to build pressure. curious if it can even do that.
 

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