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There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches
- Thread starter OR VietVet
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There are 3 bolts, you can see them in the last pic with sealer on them, that go thru the water pump, timing cover and thread in to the block. The assortment of bolts are shown that are involved in the timing case install. There is also pics where horizontal dabs of sealer were applied where the heads meet the block. There was a "V" groove at these spots. The thru bolts, that were sealed, are included in the torque sequence for the timing cover.
Now the new oil pick up and new seal will be installed and then the upper and lower oil pans will be installed. Then the oil pan access parts will be reinstalled. Axle shafts, rack and pinion and the front differential.
Now the new oil pick up and new seal will be installed and then the upper and lower oil pans will be installed. Then the oil pan access parts will be reinstalled. Axle shafts, rack and pinion and the front differential.
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Got a call from my neighbor across the street yesterday. I had done the plugs and coils to fix misfires on his Ford F150 pickup. On Thanksgiving he experienced a "clicking noise' at cold start and the noise quieted down as warmed up and would come and go and he thinks he felt a misfire or two during his holiday trip. I think the noise may be belt and tensioner related but with the possible misfire involved, he may have timing chain problems that is causing all concerns. My friend that owns a shop was telling me that the 5.4 Ford engines had timing chain problems after enough miles that caused these same concerns. Will be doing a road test this morning and getting stethoscope out. I will have my scanner out too, because it takes an act of God to turn on a CEL for misfires on a Ford product. I can at least go in and check for misfire history.
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Sorry about the late info post about the F150. Definitely has timing chain slap noise and VVT phasers lock pin noise at idle below 900 rpm and those quiet down above 900 rpm. The timing chain slap comes and goes at different rpm's and was especially noticeable on the first cold start, till the hydraulic tensioners pump up. They is noises that come and go under the valve covers too. That is an indication possible problems at the aluminum cam towers and the steel camshafts. I listened to my friend and also did some video viewing about these problems that are laid out by a you tube Ford Tech that has a screen name of FordTechMakuloco. He explained and showed in great detail what is going on in there. The Ford 5.4's all had these problems that basically started with the poor sealing at the back of the tensioners. The damage progresses from there. This would not be a job that I would tackle here at my house in the driveway.
My friend did mention that if there is damage at the heads and you replace the water pump, thermostat, tensioner and idlers, fan clutch and blade and all the timing chain components and add in all the stacked up labor....if the guy is keeping the truck, he might want to consider an engine swap. The total labor is less that way. The truck does have 136k miles and is an F150 4x4 that he used to tow a 26 ft. travel trailer with. I recently did the plugs and ignition coils and all fluids and the debris on the magnetic plug at the front diff is problematic and that transmission has to have some wear on it, too.
The owner would not hide the problems if selling it. He is waiting for me to look up all the parts and my friend to do up the labor estimate. My friend allows the owner to supply parts and that saves $ for sure.
My friend did mention that if there is damage at the heads and you replace the water pump, thermostat, tensioner and idlers, fan clutch and blade and all the timing chain components and add in all the stacked up labor....if the guy is keeping the truck, he might want to consider an engine swap. The total labor is less that way. The truck does have 136k miles and is an F150 4x4 that he used to tow a 26 ft. travel trailer with. I recently did the plugs and ignition coils and all fluids and the debris on the magnetic plug at the front diff is problematic and that transmission has to have some wear on it, too.
The owner would not hide the problems if selling it. He is waiting for me to look up all the parts and my friend to do up the labor estimate. My friend allows the owner to supply parts and that saves $ for sure.
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I am going to snivel now again. This is the second time now that I come across a good mechanical job that I can physically and mentally do but because I have no lift or even a 1 bay shop, I have to farm out the work to my friend and he is already buried with work. I am going to go to work with him but now he is so busy, we need to find a bigger shop. I have pretty much gone thru all the family vehicles for my neighborhood friends and family. Oh well, maybe this week will be different.......
TollKeeper
Full Access Member
Time to buy/build a shop with a lift? Even a single lift.
I also want to do this. Doing brakes/oil changes on the floor sucks when you are old a decrepit like me.
I also want to do this. Doing brakes/oil changes on the floor sucks when you are old a decrepit like me.
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"My Kingdom for a lift".
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I watched about 6 of his videos and he is very informative and does not skip steps. You can tell the rookies from the pros on you tube. The rookies skip and also don't explain very well because a lot of times they are not well versed in their explanations and it is infuriating when they point at or hold a component and they give it the wrong name or they just say "this thing here".
I used to do videos on you tube and I stopped because to do the video right would require a much slower pace during the actual work process, for video value and explanations. I am never going to make money doing the videos, so I just do the repair or maintenance without all the "hub bub".
Since there is hardly any vocational automotive training in schools anymore, I have started to offer, for an additional small fee, to show the vehicle owner/relative/kids the repair or maintenance process and why things are done a certain way, with full explanation for that process.
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The neighbor across the street has decided to go with crate engine and transmission from Ford. With my military discount, I am saving him $913+. That is a 10% discount but I am working for a shop discount, since I know all the dealer parts guys in the area. That would be 15% to 20%.
Who is installing it?
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The before and after of the upper oil pan install on the 2010 FJ Cruiser:
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It will be done at my friend's shop and I will be directly involved in the removal and replacement. I am not set up to do that work at home. I will be paid cash each day I am there working with my friend. That was one of the requests made by the neighbor. My working at that shop on a part time basis and reduced hours is something that has been in the works for a bit. I do not want a 5 day 8-9 hours a day job and they don't need that either.
Are you using a parts washer or doing the cleaning by hand?
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I cleaned all those parts in a parts cleaner tub on top of a drum. It is not a chemical. It is warm water and an enzyme that is added to it. it surprised the crap out of me how good it cleans. I had a stiff bristle straight brush at end of hose and had numerous other brushes that were metal, fiber and plastic bristles and different configurations.
I'd love to know what the enzyme is called, and if it's available to the public.
tom3
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That's a pretty impressive looking engine I think.
