Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida

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Dave
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Thank you! Should I also be replacing the radiator hose at the same time or just stick with the hoses that go up to the heater core?
Definitely replace the radiator hoses if they're original. I'm sorry for any confusion there - I thought those were already on your list.
 
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bobby2175

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Everyone -

Thank so much for helping me and being so patient on answering all of my questions. You've given me so much to do and so much to think about.

No more questions until I get some of this stuff done or run into some issues.

Thanks for taking the time to respond to someone that knows nothing!
 

Geotrash

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Everyone -

Thank so much for helping me and being so patient on answering all of my questions. You've given me so much to do and so much to think about.

No more questions until I get some of this stuff done or run into some issues.

Thanks for taking the time to respond to someone that knows nothing!
You knew enough to ask for help. And that puts you way ahead of the game.
 
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bobby2175

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Rock Auto has the AC Delco pump cheap, but I have also used Gates, Dayco and Melling water pumps in the past with great results. Melling is one of the OEM suppliers of pumps to GM. Remember to buy the thermostat if your pump doesn't come with one. Replacing the thermostat housing at the same time can also help prevent leaks, and many thermostats and pumps come with a new housing for that reason.


Everyone has their own approach that works for them, so I can only share what I do that works well for me. I don't worry so much about getting every drop of coolant out of the system. 95%+ of the old stuff drains out the moment you remove the lower radiator hose. So when I'm done closing everything up after repairs, I simply refill the system through the recovery tank with 50/50 dexcool premix, leave the cap off, start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature, adding coolant premix as needed to keep the tank from going empty. Once the engine is up to temp, I shut it off and refill the tank to the full line, then put the cap back on and take it for a drive. Then let it cool and add coolant back to the full line. Then I check it every day for a few days before I start it in the morning, adding coolant as needed. When I do it this way, I very seldom have to add any coolant after the first drive cycle, and even then it's only a few ounces. I've done this probably 10 times on my Yukons after various modifications and repairs, with no problems.
Found the ACDelco pump, but I don't think it came with the thermostat and housing - does this look right?
 

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Doubeleive

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Found the ACDelco pump, but I don't think it came with the thermostat and housing - does this look right?
yep, that is everything you need. you do not even need to use any kind of sealant or gasket maker, the seals are all built in or has o-rings.
when you install the water pump tighten the bolts in a x pattern, just like tightening lug nuts.
your going to want a to use a torque wrench. the water pump doesn't take much
@swathdiver should have the specs handy
 

Geotrash

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yep, that is everything you need. you do not even need to use any kind of sealant or gasket maker, the seals are all built in or has o-rings.
when you install the water pump tighten the bolts in a x pattern, just like tightening lug nuts.
your going to want a to use a torque wrench. the water pump doesn't take much
@swathdiver should have the specs handy
+1. Tighten the water pump bolts as Wes says, but in two passes:

Water Pump Bolts - First Pass 15 Nm (11 lb ft)
Water Pump Bolts - Final Pass 30 Nm (22 lb ft)
 
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bobby2175

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Is this right for radiator hoses?
 

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Wow! How do you get one of those manuals?
I have a couple different one's. I have the gm shop manual in a pdf but it's not hotlinked and it is over 10,000 pages so it can be burdensome to search thru and I have a hardback chilton shop manual which was a old library book.
there is also a alldatadiy service you can subscribe to for $19 a month or $60 a year, I haven't ever subscribed to it but some of the other members have
 
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bobby2175

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Any recommendations on a good scan tool - I'm doing more and more work on my cars, so want to be able to diagnose myself as well. Have the 2010 Yukon XL Denali, 2012 Impala, 2016 Acura ILX. Want to get something that can help me diagnose issues and something I can keep growing with.
 

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Any recommendations on a good scan tool - I'm doing more and more work on my cars, so want to be able to diagnose myself as well. Have the 2010 Yukon XL Denali, 2012 Impala, 2016 Acura ILX. Want to get something that can help me diagnose issues and something I can keep growing with.
for multiple vehicles some of the autel tablet scanners seem to be worthy, you need to go up to the $300+ range for one that will do enough to be useful. there are so many options out there now it's really hard to pick a specific one that's not a disappointment
the snap-on's and big brand name one's are priced so high the average person won't want it, they are marketed more for a shop that will use them to bring in money.
 

Geotrash

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Any recommendations on a good scan tool - I'm doing more and more work on my cars, so want to be able to diagnose myself as well. Have the 2010 Yukon XL Denali, 2012 Impala, 2016 Acura ILX. Want to get something that can help me diagnose issues and something I can keep growing with.
If you have the means and want the Cadillac, this is it: https://a.co/d/16kMNbl

I have GM Tech2 clone for my Yukons though, and those are available for $250 at chinacardiags.com
 
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bobby2175

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If you have the means and want the Cadillac, this is it: https://a.co/d/16kMNbl

I have GM Tech2 clone for my Yukons though, and those are available for $250 at chinacardiags.com
I'm going to have to do some research on these autels...I have no idea what the differences are. Will I get the value out of the Cadillac version vs the next ones down?
 

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Run the e85 for at least one tank before you leave. It’s free scrubbing bubbles for the entire intake & combustion chambers. If you like it as much as I did, you’ll run it exclusively. Here in Cali using a Chevron app it’s $1.75 gal for 1st 25 then the remainder is 2.85 or $60 fill ups. It’s $180 to fill up on 91.

We’ve clocked over 30k+ miles on the stuff in our 6.2L the last 3 years. It was a TX for the first 140k until 2020. The first tank of e85 smoothed & quieted the idle plus gave it a crisper throttle response. In highway miles you only lose 10% in range.

I didn’t see you had turned off the cylinder deactivation yet.

With the heater hose T’s and accessory belt replaced you’re doing good. I’d replace the coolant reservoir too, they’re prone to cracks at age and cause quick overheats.

Pull the panel where your bottle jack is located. Unscrew the lug wrench jacket and verify the jack isn’t secured with standard 8mm nuts. If it is, remove one with a ratchet and replace all 3 with wing nuts from the hardware store or your not getting that jack out later. Verify your key unlocks the spare tire tire barrel lock behind the tow cover (if equipped) and lube it and the mechanicals to the spare tire.

Order one of the quickie shift cable end repair kits from Amazon or eBay and stash it in the storage compartment in the back. You got some really good info for your trip, Enjoy!
 
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bobby2175

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If you have the means and want the Cadillac, this is it: https://a.co/d/16kMNbl

I have GM Tech2 clone for my Yukons though, and those are available for $250 at chinacardiags.com
Run the e85 for at least one tank before you leave. It’s free scrubbing bubbles for the entire intake & combustion chambers. If you like it as much as I did, you’ll run it exclusively. Here in Cali using a Chevron app it’s $1.75 gal for 1st 25 then the remainder is 2.85 or $60 fill ups. It’s $180 to fill up on 91.

We’ve clocked over 30k+ miles on the stuff in our 6.2L the last 3 years. It was a TX for the first 140k until 2020. The first tank of e85 smoothed & quieted the idle plus gave it a crisper throttle response. In highway miles you only lose 10% in range.

I didn’t see you had turned off the cylinder deactivation yet.

With the heater hose T’s and accessory belt replaced you’re doing good. I’d replace the coolant reservoir too, they’re prone to cracks at age and cause quick overheats.

Pull the panel where your bottle jack is located. Unscrew the lug wrench jacket and verify the jack isn’t secured with standard 8mm nuts. If it is, remove one with a ratchet and replace all 3 with wing nuts from the hardware store or your not getting that jack out later. Verify your key unlocks the spare tire tire barrel lock behind the tow cover (if equipped) and lube it and the mechanicals to the spare tire.

Order one of the quickie shift cable end repair kits from Amazon or eBay and stash it in the storage compartment in the back. You got some really good info for your trip, Enjoy!
Thanks so much for the tips! I will work to get to these as well!
This is a can of worms topic for me and I was trying not to bring it up because I was already bombarding everyone with questions!

i was reading up on E85 on the forums. I actually was a big user of it for both my Yukon and Impala - they are both flex fuel vehicles. One day, my Impala wouldn't start. I had to have it towed to the dealer and they told me the issue was related to my fuel filter getting "gummed up" by my use of E85. It was something they kept telling me over and over and how GM did should never allow the use of it and I definitely should not be using it. Haven't used it since. I know everyone here is a supporter of it and I definitely want to do it, but have been hesitant - premium gas adds up too fast and it's always tempting when I see it, but I always remember those words.

Also, I remember @swathdiver mentioning put the E85 in to help clean things out while also saying that as long as the O2 sensor was less than 100K miles. It's an original, so should I replace that first? I'm definitely interested in trying it again.

No concerns like the dealer had mentioned about the use of E85 and the fuel filter?
 
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bobby2175

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Run the e85 for at least one tank before you leave. It’s free scrubbing bubbles for the entire intake & combustion chambers. If you like it as much as I did, you’ll run it exclusively. Here in Cali using a Chevron app it’s $1.75 gal for 1st 25 then the remainder is 2.85 or $60 fill ups. It’s $180 to fill up on 91.

We’ve clocked over 30k+ miles on the stuff in our 6.2L the last 3 years. It was a TX for the first 140k until 2020. The first tank of e85 smoothed & quieted the idle plus gave it a crisper throttle response. In highway miles you only lose 10% in range.

I didn’t see you had turned off the cylinder deactivation yet.

With the heater hose T’s and accessory belt replaced you’re doing good. I’d replace the coolant reservoir too, they’re prone to cracks at age and cause quick overheats.

Pull the panel where your bottle jack is located. Unscrew the lug wrench jacket and verify the jack isn’t secured with standard 8mm nuts. If it is, remove one with a ratchet and replace all 3 with wing nuts from the hardware store or your not getting that jack out later. Verify your key unlocks the spare tire tire barrel lock behind the tow cover (if equipped) and lube it and the mechanicals to the spare tire.

Order one of the quickie shift cable end repair kits from Amazon or eBay and stash it in the storage compartment in the back. You got some really good info for your trip, Enjoy!
One more question - if I add the coolant reservoir as well, should I just also replace the radiator too and redo the entire cooling system? Everything is original. At this age, do radiators also leak?
 

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