Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida

[swathdiver]

This is a can of worms topic for me and I was trying not to bring it up because I was already bombarding everyone with questions!

i was reading up on E85 on the forums. I actually was a big user of it for both my Yukon and Impala - they are both flex fuel vehicles. One day, my Impala wouldn't start. I had to have it towed to the dealer and they told me the issue was related to my fuel filter getting "gummed up" by my use of E85. It was something they kept telling me over and over and how GM did should never allow the use of it and I definitely should not be using it. Haven't used it since. I know everyone here is a supporter of it and I definitely want to do it, but have been hesitant - premium gas adds up too fast and it's always tempting when I see it, but I always remember those words.

Also, I remember @swathdiver mentioning put the E85 in to help clean things out while also saying that as long as the O2 sensor was less than 100K miles. It's an original, so should I replace that first? I'm definitely interested in trying it again.

No concerns like the dealer had mentioned about the use of E85 and the fuel filter?

I've never heard of E85 gumming up a fuel system or filter. Our vehicles don't have a replaceable filter anyway. Well, it is inside the fuel tank and generally lasts the life of the vehicle.

One more question - if I add the coolant reservoir as well, should I just also replace the radiator too and redo the entire cooling system? Everything is original. At this age, do radiators also leak?

Might as well freshen up the heads while you are at it! See how carried away this can get?

 

[bobby2175]

I've never heard of E85 gumming up a fuel system or filter. Our vehicles don't have a replaceable filter anyway. Well, it is inside the fuel tank and generally lasts the life of the vehicle.


Might as well freshen up the heads while you are at it! See how carried away this can get?

I know - it's starting to stack up - I think you mentioned it when I started this thread! So, skip the radiator and wait for it to leak a little and keep an eye on it? The reason I was moving in that direction was because I started looking at other threads in this forum and people were saying to do a complete overhaul including the radiator.

Should I replace the 02 sensor as well since it's original as was previously mentioned before I put E85 in it?

 

[swathdiver]

I know - it's starting to stack up - I think you mentioned it when I started this thread! So, skip the radiator and wait for it to leak a little and keep an eye on it? The reason I was moving in that direction was because I started looking at other threads in this forum and people were saying to do a complete overhaul including the radiator.

Should I replace the 02 sensor as well since it's original as was previously mentioned before I put E85 in it?

Yes, if yours were mine I would replace the oxygen sensors before running it on E85. GM Original Equipment only. But for this trip, no, you want to run gasoline for the range.

When you do run E85, run 5-6 tanks to get computers fully adjusted for it.

Both numbers are on the same package/box.

 

[Fless]

Pull the panel where your bottle jack is located. Unscrew the lug wrench jacket and verify the jack isn’t secured with standard 8mm nuts. If it is, remove one with a ratchet and replace all 3 with wing nuts from the hardware store or your not getting that jack out later.

If the jack is stored per the manual instructions, no tools are needed to remove it. It's all done with wing nuts and the mounting bracket stays in place with the regular nuts.

 

[petethepug]

Didn’t know ur budget but yes, same for the radiator as the plastic end tanks on them fail or the fins bet buggar’d up with silt and lowers it’s cooling ability.

I did the gates belt kit that came with a new a/c belt. I got the green colored belt that has a lifetime warranty if a shop installs it. The radiator should only be replaced by OEM parts also. GM OEM radiators now carry a lifetime warranty.

Of course that leaves the water pump just sitting there. You know what I’m going to say about that .

Your intuition on all this stuff is correct. Win by purchasing parts before taking truck in or DYI saves $. Win by avoiding a costly breakdown from lost time, towing and out of town labor rates and Win for less worrying, more safety and a better vacation.

Regarding the factory bottle jack. Both our 08 YXL Denali & 09 Esky ESV had 8mm hex nuts painted in factory paint securing them to the weld on studs. I’ve got no dog in the fight over whether it’s factory or not, but it’s a thing that takes 5 min to verify.

GM did not install fuel filters in the 07-14 trucks. Some had mesh screens at the base of the fuel pumps. They skipped on cabin air filters too but those can be easily added.

 

[Fless]

i was reading up on E85 on the forums. I actually was a big user of it for both my Yukon and Impala - they are both flex fuel vehicles. One day, my Impala wouldn't start. I had to have it towed to the dealer and they told me the issue was related to my fuel filter getting "gummed up" by my use of E85. It was something they kept telling me over and over and how GM did should never allow the use of it and I definitely should not be using it. Haven't used it since. I know everyone here is a supporter of it and I definitely want to do it, but have been hesitant - premium gas adds up too fast and it's always tempting when I see it, but I always remember those words.

Also, I remember @swathdiver mentioning put the E85 in to help clean things out while also saying that as long as the O2 sensor was less than 100K miles. It's an original, so should I replace that first? I'm definitely interested in trying it again.

No concerns like the dealer had mentioned about the use of E85 and the fuel filter?

No concerns with E85 use. I agree with @swathdiver that it cleans the system. My '04 does have a physical inline fuel filter and I've had it replaced as a maintenance item, based just on age and mileage. I run E85 full time around my area, as well as when out on the road and can get it.

 

[swathdiver]

Didn’t know ur budget but yes, same for the radiator as the plastic end tanks on them fail or the fins bet buggar’d up with silt and lowers it’s cooling ability.

I did the gates belt kit that came with a new a/c belt. I got the green colored belt that has a lifetime warranty if a shop installs it. The radiator should only be replaced by OEM parts also. GM OEM radiators now carry a lifetime warranty.

Of course that leaves the water pump just sitting there. You know what I’m going to say about that .

Your intuition on all this stuff is correct. Win by purchasing parts before taking truck in or DYI saves $. Win by avoiding a costly breakdown from lost time, towing and out of town labor rates and Win for less worrying, more safety and a better vacation.

Regarding the factory bottle jack. Both our 08 YXL Denali & 09 Esky ESV had 8mm hex nuts painted in factory paint securing them to the weld on studs. I’ve got no dog in the fight over whether it’s factory or not, but it’s a thing that takes 5 min to verify.

GM did not install fuel filters in the 07-14 trucks. Some had mesh screens at the base of the fuel pumps. They skipped on cabin air filters too but those can be easily added.

View attachment 411412
View attachment 411413

That's a bracket that does not have to come out as it just holds the bottle jack and chocks.

 

[bobby2175]

No concerns with E85 use. I agree with @swathdiver that it cleans the system. My '04 does have a physical inline fuel filter and I've had it replaced as a maintenance item, based just on age and mileage. I run E85 full time around my area, as well as when out on the road and can get it.

We'll, I'm going to do it all.

I believe I replaced the serpentine belt about 60K miles ago. It looks to be in good condition - should I still replace it?

Also, is there a good video on the AC belt? Can't seem to find a clear one.

Early in the discussion, I mentioned I did an electrical overhaul by replacing battery cables (have the positive to the starter still left), cleaning up all of the grounds, fuse block, etc. There is one ground strap going from behind the engine up to the the firewall area on the driver's side - I'm having some trouble getting to the nut behind the engine - any suggestions? It's almost like that strap is not completely flush and getting in the way of my wrench getting in there in an already tight space. . Maybe I need to try a swivel?

Also, since I'm now doing the entire cooling system, are there any other torque specs I need to think about other than the ones mentioned for the water pump?

What do you do with all of the parts and fluids? Is there a way to recycle/dispose of these?

My budget is between $2K-3K - which is the cost of the rental that my wife wants to get because she doesn't trust the truck with it's age primarily because of the electrical issues we've had over the past 4 years and spending $4K at the dealer back in 2019/2020 because they just kept following the scan tool replacing major components like BCM, TCM, instead of going to cables and grounds. There's no way I'm giving someone that kind of money when I have a Yukon where I can do some PM.

It's been almost 1,000 miles now since I've upgraded things on electrical without an issue.

You can see that I'm under a tremendous amount of pressure to make sure this thing works, or I will single handedly ruin the vacation! No pressure.

 

[Doubeleive]

We'll, I'm going to do it all.

I believe I replaced the serpentine belt about 60K miles ago. It looks to be in good condition - should I still replace it?

Also, is there a good video on the AC belt? Can't seem to find a clear one.

Early in the discussion, I mentioned I did an electrical overhaul by replacing battery cables (have the positive to the starter still left), cleaning up all of the grounds, fuse block, etc. There is one ground strap going from behind the engine up to the the firewall area on the driver's side - I'm having some trouble getting to the nut behind the engine - any suggestions? It's almost like that strap is not completely flush and getting in the way of my wrench getting in there in an already tight space. . Maybe I need to try a swivel?

Also, since I'm now doing the entire cooling system, are there any other torque specs I need to think about other than the ones mentioned for the water pump?

What do you do with all of the parts and fluids? Is there a way to recycle/dispose of these?

My budget is between $2K-3K - which is the cost of the rental that my wife wants to get because she doesn't trust the truck with it's age primarily because of the electrical issues we've had over the past 4 years and spending $4K at the dealer back in 2019/2020 because they just kept following the scan tool replacing major components like BCM, TCM, instead of going to cables and grounds. There's no way I'm giving someone that kind of money when I have a Yukon where I can do some PM.

It's been almost 1,000 miles now since I've upgraded things on electrical without an issue.

You can see that I'm under a tremendous amount of pressure to make sure this thing works, or I will single handedly ruin the vacation! No pressure.

if you buy the ac belt from the dealer it comes with the belt tool, same if you buy a water pump from the dealer it comes complete with the thermostat.
you can get a discount from the dealer parts department you just have to ask them. If they wont give a discount go to another dealer.

 

[iamdub]

Didn’t know ur budget but yes, same for the radiator as the plastic end tanks on them fail or the fins bet buggar’d up with silt and lowers it’s cooling ability.

I did the gates belt kit that came with a new a/c belt. I got the green colored belt that has a lifetime warranty if a shop installs it. The radiator should only be replaced by OEM parts also. GM OEM radiators now carry a lifetime warranty.

Of course that leaves the water pump just sitting there. You know what I’m going to say about that .

Your intuition on all this stuff is correct. Win by purchasing parts before taking truck in or DYI saves $. Win by avoiding a costly breakdown from lost time, towing and out of town labor rates and Win for less worrying, more safety and a better vacation.

Regarding the factory bottle jack. Both our 08 YXL Denali & 09 Esky ESV had 8mm hex nuts painted in factory paint securing them to the weld on studs. I’ve got no dog in the fight over whether it’s factory or not, but it’s a thing that takes 5 min to verify.

GM did not install fuel filters in the 07-14 trucks. Some had mesh screens at the base of the fuel pumps. They skipped on cabin air filters too but those can be easily added.

View attachment 411412
View attachment 411413

Bruh... You don't remove that bracket. You remove the large wingnut with the plastic wings. It's holding the wheel chocks. Then, you twist the knob to "lower" the jack so it comes out of that bracket, which, you would have had to do to use the jack, anyway.

 

[iamdub]

We'll, I'm going to do it all.

I believe I replaced the serpentine belt about 60K miles ago. It looks to be in good condition - should I still replace it?

I wouldn't bother.

Early in the discussion, I mentioned I did an electrical overhaul by replacing battery cables (have the positive to the starter still left), cleaning up all of the grounds, fuse block, etc. There is one ground strap going from behind the engine up to the the firewall area on the driver's side - I'm having some trouble getting to the nut behind the engine - any suggestions? It's almost like that strap is not completely flush and getting in the way of my wrench getting in there in an already tight space. . Maybe I need to try a swivel?

I wouldn't bother. It's easier to add a ground elsewhere. It can only help as then the body will be extra grounded. I did a Big 3 upgrade (1/0 gauge) that turned into a Big 5. I used the original 4 gauge battery ground as the body-to-engine connection, ran from a bolt I added to the cowl to the factory ground location on the front of the RH cylinder head. I made my own cables, but you can buy a pre-made battery cable from the auto parts store. Add it to that stud on the firewall or any other and run it to wherever is convenient on the engine block and just leave that flat braided one alone.

 

[petethepug]

With vehicles you’ve got to remind peeps that they’re machines. They can break at any time, new or old like a dice roll. No reason you should be responsible for the outcome of rolling the dice. Prudence says it’s wiser to invest in maintaining and investing in what you own vs giving dough to a rental comp. You’ll be back in your own truck after the vacation. Why not enjoy it more afterwards with the maintenance you just did?

60k says it’s ok to swap in a new serp belt. It’s too vital to wait for a failure. Again, my commendations for your rationale on preparing for the trip.

If you want to kick it up a notch for entertainment on the road there’s 2-3 parts you can buy to stream live TV, Amazon prime, VUDU, etc on all the existing monitors were n the truck with an iPhone.

 

[iamdub]

Thank you so much - incredible info and exactly what I was looking for! I really wasn't sure how long these things would last, but that gives me some confidence that you're up to 225K. I think I'll just leave it then and see how it goes.

180K... 225K... That's nothing on these things with basic maintenance. I've had mine since ~146K and have NOT been easy on it. I cammed it at 200K and have been spanking it even harder ever since. Mine's just a weekend toy and I'm not aiming to maximize its lifespan. We've had at least one 400K+ member here and a there are a few 300K+ members running around. @89Suburban is one of the most active. I think @Trey Hardy is over 300K, too. Personally, I don't consider these things "high mileage" until 200K. But "high mileage" does not equate to "worn out". There are a few maintenance/wear items that need attention around your Yukon's mileage, and all that has been covered here.

I'm planning on putting together a tool kit to take with me and I really didn't know where to start, so this is great! Anything else you think I should take with me?

I'm a fan of a telescoping lug wrench. In addition to the extras I have stuffed in the jack compartment, I have this: https://a.co/d/cZnL7qj

Any recommendations on a good OBD scanner - as I'm starting to now do my own vehicle repairs, I feel like I need to get something good to go across 3 cars.

This is a whole can o' worms in itself better suited as it's own separate subject. If it were me, I'd buy a cheap one to keep in the Yukon for emergency use and buy a nicer one (if needed) to cover the other vehicles. For your Yukon, you should be well-covered with one of the Bluetooth models that plug into the ALDL and sync to an app on your phone. It's small, doesn't have a thick cord you gotta keep rolled up and stuffed in your center console, etc. There are plenty of options for these.

One question on the heater hoses - should I also replace the hose that goes to the radiator?

I think this was already covered, but, yes- "all the soft parts".

Also, what is the best way to make sure I get all of the coolant out of the system, make sure I get the air out, etc? I see conflicting videos - some say to keep the reservoir cap off and keep refilling, other people say don't do that?!? What's the best way to refill properly with new coolant?

Plenty of videos on this. I just keep the surge tank filled as it idles, comes up to temp and the thermostat opens. Then check it and top it off periodically over the next few drives as the air works its way to the highest point which is the surge tank. I buy the coolant concentrate and distilled water as it's the most economical method. You're paying for convenience with the pre-mixed stuff. Also, out of that gallon of pre-mix, 50% of it is just water and you're over-paying for it. After a complete system drain, I pour half a gallon of distilled water into the surge tank then half a gallon of coolant concentrate. Then I pour the remaining half gallon of the concentrate into the half-empty gallon water jug to mix it then pour that in as needed. Then I have an empty gallon jug to mix up more coolant as needed for topping off.

Last question on this one - how much time do you think I should set aside to do the heater hoses swap for a total rookie? I'm traveling for work the next two weeks, so I'm trying to squeeze it in between flights and want to make sure I can do it right!

1.5 - 2 hours, depending on how much you fight the connectors and/or how fast you work. It's all fairly easy access and straightforward.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Yea my old girl is over 350,000 miles now with the original dod lifters still in her just tuned it and sent it. I drive it a minimum of 3 he to 6 hr every wensday for work I bought it with 247,000 2-3 years back for 5,000$ I’ve replaced the front end and basic wear items like radiator alternator belt T fitting on the firewall etc etc but it’s still a hell of a lot cheaper then paying 500-1000$ car payment every month! I’m ******* my rig too not on the way to work but on my way home it’s 70-80 non stop the whole way. These things are tanks! My inlaw also has a 05 suburban with 360,000+ miles on her and he hasent changed much at all unless it’s broke he won’t fix it… my uncle was the same way with his 99 Silverado that he came to me and asked if it was time for a tune up? I asked his miles he said I don’t know around 400,000 he replaced the battery and brake pads nothing else!!! Drove the ***** to New York and back to Nc! They all need some TLC but it’s hard to kill these things!

 

[petethepug]

Bruh... You don't remove that bracket. You remove the large wingnut with the plastic wings.

Hahahaha on me, several times!!! Without pulling the entire jack assembly attached to the bracket it’s a nightmare. Reassembling it and all the components outside the compartment is a he’ll of a lot easier. I inadvertently did a work around. At 6’3” navigating around in back isn’t fun. Especially at night, less time spent back there’s worth it.

 

[iamdub]

Hahahaha on me, several times!!! Without pulling the entire jack assembly attached to the bracket it’s a nightmare. Reassembling it and all the components outside the compartment is a he’ll of a lot easier. I inadvertently did a work around. At 6’3” navigating around in back isn’t fun. Especially at night, less time spent back there’s worth it.

No doubt it's a puzzle in there. I wish I had taken a pic or two of how mine was assembled before I removed it. With all the extras I have crammed in there with it, plus the loss of space from the power liftgate assembly, it has to go back together exactly as it was originally to be as compact as possible.

 

[adventurenali92]

I see tons and tons of GMT800 and GMT900 rigs on every road trip I take. Like @iamdub and @Trey Hardy have said they’re pretty hard to kill. Good on you @bobby2175 for wanting to make sure your truck is road trip ready!

 

[Fless]

No doubt it's a puzzle in there. I wish I had taken a pic or two of how mine was assembled before I removed it. With all the extras I have crammed in there with it, plus the loss of space from the power liftgate assembly, it has to go back together exactly as it was originally to be as compact as possible.

RTFM Puzzle solved....

Pic from my GMT800 manual YMMV

 

[petethepug]

Is that a side view looking to the left in the Tahoe & non XL / ESV Yuke & Esky?

I think GM put the jack in the forward / top (removable) bin on the NNBS XL trucks so you have to fold down the p/s 3rd row seat after pulling the recessed bin cover off.

You do get the advantage of having a side storage bin with a cover where the Tahoe usually has its jack stored but you pay the price when it comes time to access the jack and tools in an XL.

A quick look shows the Esky shorty’s have their jack stowed next to the base of the 3rd row seat after the cover on top is removed. It works, but you’re SOL if there’s luggage or dogs back there at 3am on a rainy night. Knock on wood.

Sorry if going off topic on a Vac prep thread. I can’t remember on our 06 YXL Denali if the jack was in same place as 07-14 but GM did put it in the panel next to the lift gate on the NBS Tahoe & Yuke shortys on # 16 below

 

[Trey Hardy]

I see tons and tons of GMT800 and GMT900 rigs on every road trip I take. Like @iamdub and @Trey Hardy have said they’re pretty hard to kill. Good on you @bobby2175 for wanting to make sure your truck is road trip ready!

I will say my dad got a Silverado with around 70,000 miles drove it a year got to around 80-90,000 and she dropped a lifter. I told him and told him to get a tune or disabler and he diddnt believe chevy would build something to blow up on itself. Now he’s in around 4,000$ in a top end rebuild and dod delete but now the computers acting weird and not letting the truck run so she’s getting a new computer now…

Two of my lifters have stuck on me over the years and I got them unstuck with marvel mystery oil by the grace of god. Both times I was 4+ hr away from home and leaving the next day to head home. I’ve Been running that stuff as my 6th quart ever since and it’s been holding up good! It’s not a real fix but it’s been a good bandaid. I also add it to my gas because I run 87 and without B12 or MMO she will spark knock bad. Poor man over here lol