There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[OR VietVet]

For the 2006 F150, belt and rear diff gasket got here Wednesday and the front diff gasket, ignition coils and air filter still coming form RA on Tuesday. I wish I had these Tuesday parts already because the owner is gone as of today, with his wife, in her car and not due back till Sunday. She is a teacher and will be back at work soon. Because of the additional shipping charges for the fluids, we used my military discount and got all fluids at AZ. I know I could do the rear diff and belt already but I only want to have to set 4 jack stands one time on this truck. The first thing I am doing, when all parts are here, is the ignition coils. I am anxious to see the coil for #3 and hope to see a crack that would be the obvious problem.

I am keeping busy with helping with a 5 family garage sale, two doors down, that the landlord and friends puts on every year. They have a very large building that has a basketball court and kitchen in it that they use. I am networking with these people and working up more customers. Turns out, one of the families in the group putting the sale on, is the family where I have worked on all three family cars and is the golfing buddy of the landlord and another lady was a past owner of a major auto repair shop in town and they are beating the drums for me and sending people to me all day today and hopefully all day tomorrow. All they ever wanted is an honest tech that doesn't mince words when I tell them what I am doing and what I have found.

 

[OR VietVet]

On the metric side of tool box I have a full set of long SK wrenches and a full set of regular SK wrenches. I have needed some stubby's from time to time but did not want to go $400 for a set of stubbies with metric and SAE wrenches. Since I rarely need/use a stubby wrench, I decided to get a set of ICON flex head ratcheting stubby wrenches that cover metric and SAE. I have a long set of SAE SK wrenches as well and have not run across any need for a regular length SAE wrench set. So much of what I work on is metric anyway. I have some loose metruc and SAE wrenches in each drawer.

 

[OR VietVet]

F150 parts are now due in tomorrow instead of Tuesday. That is good because it is supposed to get to 81 tomorrow and 77 on Tuesday. Very cool in the morning. Want to hammer that job out because I have a feeling that I have some business drummed up after the last 3 days of the garage sale I have been at, 2 doors up. My girl's landlord, that feeds me business, had more golfing buddies and their wives show up to the sale and several of them came by to gab and introduce themselves. What will I work on and what I will not work on.....etc.

I like customers like this because they don't wait for something to break and then contact me and they don't drive beat up crap cars. I have thought of renting a shop, one bay, but that involves a whole lot more expense. A lift, if does not have one already, insurance, rent, utilities.....the unknown.

 

[Tonyrodz]

On the metric side of tool box I have a full set of long SK wrenches and a full set of regular SK wrenches. I have needed some stubby's from time to time but did not want to go $400 for a set of stubbies with metric and SAE wrenches. Since I rarely need/use a stubby wrench, I decided to get a set of ICON flex head ratcheting stubby wrenches that cover metric and SAE. I have a long set of SAE SK wrenches as well and have not run across any need for a regular length SAE wrench set. So much of what I work on is metric anyway. I have some loose metruc and SAE wrenches in each drawer.

View attachment 407157View attachment 407158

Those ratcheting wrenches are awesome.

 

[OR VietVet]

I had 2 flex head ICON ratchets, 3/8" drive was 12" long and the 1/2" drive was 18" long. They performed flawlessly. I purposely tried abusing them and compared to my MAC ratchets. Because I did not need them, duplicates, I sold them for a profit a while back. I am gonna use the stubbys asap to see how they do. The BIG Name stubby flex head ratcheting wrench sets are very expensive compared to the ICON's. If I was making my living every day with my tools, I would spend more money. I will report back with a review.

 

[OR VietVet]

Rest of the F150 parts came this morning and was tempted to start on work today but am waiting till in the morning. I had my VA appointment for Wednesday and played phone tag and even went to VA and still no replacement appointment. This is *b*u*l*l*s*h*i*t*. I am getting the run around and I have a legitimate concern that I need looked at. Nothing major, I hope, and does not keep me from working and carrying on about my days. Just a run around that a vet is not supposed to go thru. Thanks Brandon.

I fired up my little air compressor and attached my blower nozzle and blew out all around the ignition coils. Once I pull the coils, I will be blowing out the holes as well. Gonna look at the plugs on #3 and #7. The rest of the work is pretty straight forward: air filter, serpentine belt, brake and power steering flush and changing fluids at both differentials. Gonna be taking a break at 11:30 for tacos with a friend from the AL. We do the tacos every Tuesday and Thursday. It will be a long day and this neighbor is one that I have agreed to do the labor at $60 an hour because he was my first customer on the block when my labor was $60 an hour.

This morning I moved his truck over and parked in front of my garage. When I did that, I found the park brake light was on, even though the park brake was not set. I told him and it is easy to remove covers to access the harness connection at the back of the d/s of cluster. All I did before was flex the circuit board and the light went out but after sitting for 4-5 days, it has settled back in place and turned the light on. We have 4 options: Flex the circuit board again and install a small wedge of something in there to hold it and not allow for it to settle again and turn light on, don't touch it and let it stay on, remove the cluster and circuit board and attempt a solder fix or buy a new cluster from Ford because I have looked and looked and cannot find a new circuit board, only a complete cluster, to the tune of just under $600 at FOMOCO. Has to be ordered in and I would need to see about the mileage set up on it. I see them as low as $385 at OE Ford Parts suppliers but am unsure about those. I think this is a last resort and he wants me to just put a wedge in place. He is gonna tell me in the morning.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Rest of the F150 parts came this morning and was tempted to start on work today but am waiting till in the morning. I had my VA appointment for Wednesday and played phone tag and even went to VA and still no replacement appointment. This is *b*u*l*l*s*h*i*t*. I am getting the run around and I have a legitimate concern that I need looked at. Nothing major, I hope, and does not keep me from working and carrying on about my days. Just a run around that a vet is not supposed to go thru. Thanks Brandon.

I fired up my little air compressor and attached my blower nozzle and blew out all around the ignition coils. Once I pull the coils, I will be blowing out the holes as well. Gonna look at the plugs on #3 and #7. The rest of the work is pretty straight forward: air filter, serpentine belt, brake and power steering flush and changing fluids at both differentials. Gonna be taking a break at 11:30 for tacos with a friend from the AL. We do the tacos every Tuesday and Thursday. It will be a long day and this neighbor is one that I have agreed to do the labor at $60 an hour because he was my first customer on the block when my labor was $60 an hour.

This morning I moved his truck over and parked in front of my garage. When I did that, I found the park brake light was on, even though the park brake was not set. I told him and it is easy to remove covers to access the harness connection at the back of the d/s of cluster. All I did before was flex the circuit board and the light went out but after sitting for 4-5 days, it has settled back in place and turned the light on. We have 4 options: Flex the circuit board again and install a small wedge of something in there to hold it and not allow for it to settle again and turn light on, don't touch it and let it stay on, remove the cluster and circuit board and attempt a solder fix or buy a new cluster from Ford because I have looked and looked and cannot find a new circuit board, only a complete cluster, to the tune of just under $600 at FOMOCO. Has to be ordered in and I would need to see about the mileage set up on it. I see them as low as $385 at OE Ford Parts suppliers but am unsure about those. I think this is a last resort and he wants me to just put a wedge in place. He is gonna tell me in the morning.

I'd do the wedge too. Fck it.

 

[TollKeeper]

I'd do the wedge too. Fck it.

Its a Ford... I mean how much longer is it really going to make it? And being as old as it is, you know it doesnt have the heated tail gate option.

 

[OR VietVet]

Started at 7:30 on the F150 and finished at 4:10. Had 2 trips to AZ as well. Decided to do new plugs with the coils and added on new front hood lift struts. Some of the time was eaten up by figuring out how to wedge that circuit board for the park brake light. In behind that circuit board in the dash cluster there was a space about 3 1/2" before you got to the hard plastic tunnel for the defrost vent. Used Gorilla tape and wedged a used roll of Duct tape in there and it pushed it forward and shut out the light. I left the covers off and drove to AZ for the hood lift struts and back with no light on. He was happy and I had it back together in 2 minutes.

The 2 cylinders that I got the misfire counts on, #3 and #7, both had ugly looking boots and the tops were gummed up with signs of the water leaking down from the cowling and mixing with dirt. The 2 plugs did not look as good as the others so we did all new plugs too. Put it all back together and road tested with customer and there was no misfire. Did the brake flush, power steering flush, serpentine belt, air filter, fuel filter and changed fluid in both diffs. I agreed to charge him $60 an hour for 7 hours. He bought me some lunch and he also paid for a new 9/16" inch magnetic spark plug socket, because all I had was 5/8" and 3/4". I had taken a couple water breaks and he does favors for me, so I felt 7 hours was fair. By the way, the old dealer installed plugs were either too tight or too loose and I gotta say, the plugs are a PITA to do.

On to the next one.

My girl's landlord wants me to pack wheel bearings on his flatbed trailer soon and I got a message today from one of the contacts established at the garage sale.

My AL friend I get tacos with, called and his wife had their 2019 Colorado in for the oil change at the dealer, one of those contracts, and he said they told her the brake fluid was dirty and needed flushed. They told her $200 and my friend told my girl I could probably do it for a 1/3rd of that price. Has 19 k miles on it and I told him that it likely does not need brake fluid flushed and just my my inspection, would be a 1/3rd of my $60 an hour I charge him, to lift the cap and inspect. I was kidding but I think he thinks I am serious.

 

[iamdub]

Started at 7:30 on the F150 and finished at 4:10. Had 2 trips to AZ as well. Decided to do new plugs with the coils and added on new front hood lift struts. Some of the time was eaten up by figuring out how to wedge that circuit board for the park brake light. In behind that circuit board in the dash cluster there was a space about 3 1/2" before you got to the hard plastic tunnel for the defrost vent. Used Gorilla tape and wedged a used roll of Duct tape in there and it pushed it forward and shut out the light. I left the covers off and drove to AZ for the hood lift struts and back with no light on. He was happy and I had it back together in 2 minutes.

The 2 cylinders that I got the misfire counts on, #3 and #7, both had ugly looking boots and the tops were gummed up with signs of the water leaking down from the cowling and mixing with dirt. The 2 plugs did not look as good as the others so we did all new plugs too. Put it all back together and road tested with customer and there was no misfire. Did the brake flush, power steering flush, serpentine belt, air filter, fuel filter and changed fluid in both diffs. I agreed to charge him $60 an hour for 7 hours. He bought me some lunch and he also paid for a new 9/16" inch magnetic spark plug socket, because all I had was 5/8" and 3/4". I had taken a couple water breaks and he does favors for me, so I felt 7 hours was fair. By the way, the old dealer installed plugs were either too tight or too loose and I gotta say, the plugs are a PITA to do.

On to the next one.

My girl's landlord wants me to pack wheel bearings on his flatbed trailer soon and I got a message today from one of the contacts established at the garage sale.

My AL friend I get tacos with, called and his wife had their 2019 Colorado in for the oil change at the dealer, one of those contracts, and he said they told her the brake fluid was dirty and needed flushed. They told her $200 and my friend told my girl I could probably do it for a 1/3rd of that price. Has 19 k miles on it and I told him that it likely does not need brake fluid flushed and just my my inspection, would be a 1/3rd of my $60 an hour I charge him, to lift the cap and inspect. I was kidding but I think he thinks I am serious.

The manual of that Nissan I bought new at the end of 2021 says the brake fluid needs to be flushed every 10K. BULLŚHIT.

 

[OR VietVet]

The manual of that Nissan I bought new at the end of 2021 says the brake fluid needs to be flushed every 10K. BULLŚHIT.

Completely agree. BF is not even getting close to needing a flush, IMO, till 30k miles, unless you are ******* the brakes and ride them in the passes and tow and and and......Used to be about every 3 years or 40k to 50k miles.

 

[iamdub]

Completely agree. BF is not even getting close to needing a flush, IMO, till 30k miles, unless you are ******* the brakes and ride them in the passes and tow and and and......Used to be about every 3 years or 40k to 50k miles.

Agreed. In my example, this is a Nissan Kicks. There's not even enough mass to be hárd on the brakes.

 

[OR VietVet]

Well, after the F150 workout, I now have a welcome break in the action. I have offered to roll to my friend's shop to help get him caught up and am waiting to see what he says. He does things his way, so he may just work a weekend to get there.

My girl's favorite cousin passed away overnight and I need to help her get thru this. I am off for tacos today and then will just be with her to do what needs done. It was expected but is never accepted. Her brother, who passed in 2004 and was a Vietnam Vet, and this cousin were very close and my girl was always the younger sister to the both of them that "hung around" and went everywhere with both of them. She will now be in her "take it all on and put it on her shoulders" mode and be there for the wife and rest of family. She just cannot help herself. 40+ years as a flight attendant helping others and taking after her mother, has made her a SAINT in everyone's eyes.

 

[OR VietVet]

Got a contact last night from an AL member that he wants me to get and install the outer window belt weatherstrip on both front doors of his 2011 Tundra. RA had them and are ordered. The front pair at RA are the same price as just the one is at the dealer. Should take all of 30 minutes to replace both. Hopefully he wants more done after I look under the hood but he is tight with his money but a great guy.

 

[OR VietVet]

I knew if I sat around long enough, I would get some more work. As I said, waiting on the window weatherstrip pieces to come in.

Now my girl's landlord called and his son has a 77k mile 1996 Toyota Tacoma 2wd with a 2.4 engine and has a hot soak starting problem. I tried and tried to duplicate but could not. I had done some inspection of it when he took possession from a deceased relative and I did an air filter and a complete inspection and all looked good. I was gonna do the fuel filter before but it looks like a supreme PITA to do and now with the starting problem, that I have not been able to duplicate so far, it looks like I will do it because I want to remove for restriction inspection. We have no previous work paperwork for this truck. I plan to do a MAF and throttle body clean too. He is also missing a "front bumper filler piece" on the right side. The left one is such a dark Forest Green, that it looks black. I found a new pair, left and right, at RA for about $13 and are black. Gonna replace them and make them both black. If you stand back about 3 feet or more, you cannot tell the difference.

 

[OR VietVet]

Then, while I was researching the Tacoma parts, a new local prospective buyer for the 65 Mustang, called and wants to see it Tuesday and is aware of all the concerns. He asked me, "If I buy it can I replace the clutch and oil pan"? Hell yes I can. Can I fix the brake pull to the left and the brake vibes? Yes I can. He would put new tires on and align, so the slight drift left and the 55 mph front vibes will likely be cured by that. He is aware of the missing door build tag but she has located a company that supplies the blank tag and can stamp the info in for her. The weather has turned nice here and is daily in the 70's to very low 81 to 82 degrees. My kind of car work weather.

I told him I estimate 5 hours labor for the clutch, at $80 an hour. That tiny transmission should be no problem. I even have the pilot bearing puller tool and the install tool. If all else fails, I will do the grease in the pilot hole and drive the install tool handle in there and a couple good whacks and it should pop right out.

The rear crank seal is the old two piece design and can still get the "rope seal design". Not gonna do that at all, unless he buys the special tool to remove the upper half of the seal and does not hold me responsible for the bearing condition.

 

[OR VietVet]

The prospective 65 Mustang buyer must be serious. He is coming to look on Tuesday afternoon. He also wanted an estimate to replace the oil pan when doing the clutch. He also wanted brake concerns estimate. Hard brake pedal will pull left and higher speed and apply brakes and has front vibes. I told him I have an inspection fee and then can give repair estimate. We shall see.

 

[OR VietVet]

Talked to a guy in NJ today about the missing door tag on the Mustang. He clued me in on a guy in AZ at Marti Auto Works that has the blank tags and can make them with a pic of old tag or supplied codes for the new tag. I have all the line codes figured out for the tag except for the axle gear ratio and I will do than on Tuesday. Then the guy in NJ asked how much for the car because he is partners with another guy and they own Classic Pony Cars and No Reserve Classics and they want the 65 Mustang to dress up and go thru the engine and suspension and add 4 wheel disc brakes and resell it. Have to wait till the Tuesday view guy shows and see what he says.

 

[OR VietVet]

The best part of today was that the weatherstrip parts showed up for the 2011 Tundra, friend from AL. The worst part of the day was the Tundra showing up. The aftermarket parts from RA sucked a big hind *T*I*T*. The old OE part/weatherstrip came off pretty easy. The aftermarket part matched up close to 90% but that 10% kicked my ass. Looked at videos and was made by Toyota to be easy to install. The aftermarket company FUBAR. There is 5 little gripper tabs that the channel was supposed to attach to, located inside the door outer skin. Tabs there but no matter what I tried, the tabs would not grab the channel in the small clip on area. On the OE part, that channel is flat and allows the tabs some room to get in there and grab and hold. The aftermarket ones had a bulb seal like design, along the whole strip that would not give the tabs any room to allow them to settle in the channel. Ordered OE weatherstrip for left and right doors and will install when get here. Learned a lesson about quality parts. There are numerous videos on you tube about pissed off techs across the country and the POS parts they are handed sometimes.

 

[OR VietVet]

The local 65 Mustang prospective buyer was waffling too much and I shut him down. Told him to come in with an offer by 10 last night. Did not hear from him till this morning and he said he typically does not answer texts in the evening. I told him he had to pay $26k or no deal. He balked, Goodbye. Then this morning I talked to the first guy that already came and looked and he said he would be up this weekend with $25,500 cash and a trailer. Hope it is all done with by then.

I was supposed to finally put the new p/s mirror on the 2020 Acura RDX this morning but the 80+ year old owner forgot. His "friend" got on the phone and said he would be here by 10 tomorrow morning. Will get that done finally.

The fuel filter showed today for the 96 Tacoma and the bumper fillers are to be here on Monday and then I can get that all done.

Unfortunately, when the local 65 Mustang buyer went stupid, I lost $800 labor money but it is what it is. Likely good that it happened because he may have been a PITA to deal with on the clutch and oil pan work.